Routes as trad in Africa

Start 15m left of Naked Orange.

1. 30m (G3) Climb the steep crack (mostly G2 and G3). When the holds run out, make a hard traverse (G3) left and up on small knobs. Move back into the crack and up onto a stance about 5m below the roof.

2. 30m (G2) Traverse right on small holds to a recess which yields some protection. Continue railing to the end of the roof. Move up on the right to an easy traverse line back left. Where this ends (directly above previous stance) drop down and rail into the flared open book on the left. Climb this with difficulty and then onto the face above and through rightwards to a large flake. Climb this to a stance on the left.

3. 30m (F3) Climb the recess on the left to a grassy ledge where a scramble to the right leads to easy ground and convenient abseil trees.

The route follows a line 130m right of Afternoon Ascension and 15m left of a huge boulder.

1. 30m (F2+) Start at the base of a crack and corner and climb straight up the crack. Climb up as high as possible, then traverse to the left onto the face. Move up and traverse to the right to an obvious ledge.

2. 24m (F3 A2) Climb diagonally upward, passing over a small overhang, for 20m until stopped by an overhanging rock. Traverse to the right underdeath (sic) this rock to a recess and an overhanging crack. Climb the crack (A2) to easier rock and a small stance. It may be advisable to divide this pitch into two to reduce rope-drag.

3. 40m (F1) Traverse right, move up to ledge, then traverse left and climb through overhanging rock bearing slightly left, to a large ledge below a grey open book recess.

4. 20m (F2) Climb the open book recess to a grass ledge, then traverse right to a tree belay.

5. 40m (E2) Climb up through easy rock bands, bearing slightly left to reach the top. Walk off left along a large grass ledge.

From the start of Naked Orange, walk along the rock face to the right until a ledge is reached. Continue along the ledge (about 150m) to a 4m open book with a beacon at the start. This is about 50m to the left of C cad.

1. 25m (F1) Climb the open book, traverse 2m to the right and continue up a crack and a face to a ledge capped by overhangs.

2. 10m (F2) Climb the recess, traverse delicately 2m to the lef, then climb a smooth bulging face to a stance with a wedge belay.

3. 25m (F2) Move up to just below an overhang, make a tricky move to the left and continue traversing 13m on the same level to a stance in a recess.

4. 45m (E3) Climb out diagonally to the left to a little tree to the left of a steep face, then move to the right and up a recess to a big tree.

5. 30m (F1) Continue up to the left at first, then diagonally to the right onto a smooth ledge. Move to the right into a corner, do a delicate pull-up mantleshelf out to the right and move up to big ledge.

6. 45m (E3) Scramble diagonally to the left at first, to an obvious crack in a little buttress. The route here crosses Cycad. Climb up to a stance 5m below a tree.

7. 45m (E2) Climb past the tree and continue up just to the left of a cycad to a comfortable ledge with two trees. This stance is shared with Cycad.

8. 45m (E1) Continue up the face. Further scrambling leads to the top.

This climb follows the ridge 50m to the right of African Bee. Most of the route is fairly obvious. At the top rock band a leftward detour from a recess onto a face is necessary.

The route goes up the prominent buttress unofficially called Frugal Kop, about halfway between the campsite and Hanglip. When leaving the campsite, take the road going to the left just before the first gate, walk through a little stream and carry on, passing another gate. The road peters out a the foot of the buttress. The fence bends to the left, heading straight up to a little buttress against the rock face. From this, the route goes straight up the prominent crack with overhangs going out to the right, then up a thinning crack and finally through large blocks at the top of the face.

1. 20m (E2) Climb a recess just to the right of the little buttress, going left at the top.

2. 15m (F3 A1) Climb past a tree into a crack to a handrail going out ot the right. Hand-traverse out to the right around the corner (3m). Use two aid moves (one piton) to get up the vertical crack to reach a large stance.

3. 40m (F3) Climb a chimney up to an overhang. Follow the overhang out to the right by climbing immediately under it. At the end of the overhang, move up an open book to a ledge and continue diagonally to the left to a large ledge with trees.

4. 30m (E3) Move around an awkward bulge by jamming in one knee for balance, to reach a tree on the right. Climb straight up a recess to a large ledge with rees.

5. 30m (F1) Scramble up 5m to a large free-standing block, with a chockstone wedged between the block and the face (belay from here). Climb up between the block and the face, going slightly to the left up to overhangs, then up to the right to a ledge. Climb straight up to a prominent chockstone wedged in a crack. Work up behind the chockstone to a ledge with trees and continue slightly to the left to the top.

Free Variation:Climb up a recess 5m to the left of the fence.

1. 20m (F2) Climb the recess to a ledge above.

2. 15m (G1) Climb past a tree into a crack. Do a delicate move where the crack narrows then do a pull-up onto a ledge. Continue up main route from this point.

Start in a chimney abut 10m to the right of Vegetarian. This is 15m to the right of a very prominent chimney.

1. 40m (F1) Climb the chimney past a little tree to a little ledge. Continue up just right of the edge of some long slabs to a big block.

2. 20m (F2) Move to the left and climb up just left of the slabs to below a little overhang. Climb awkwardly up right onto a ledge. Step slightly left then with the aid of underhand grips and a layback gain a ledge up to the left. Move onto a big boulder then diagonally right to a tree on the face.

3. 40m (F1) Continue diagonally up right to a slight overhang and traverse right up to atree.

4. 45m (D) Traverse 45m to the right to a slight recess. This is about 5m to the right of a big tree.

5. 38m (F2) Climb the slight recess to a small overhang. Move up to the left then up a few meters until one can step to the right. Make a tricky move left then up 4m to a stance.

6. 45m (F2) Climb up 1m the traverse delicately left into a corner. Move delicately left to reach a thin vertical crack 3m. Ascend the crack (strenuous). Continue to top.

Approximately 200m to the right of the fence is a big brown patch of rock 40m up. The right-hand side of this has a big overhang and the left a recessed crack, with a tree about 8m up.

1. 30m (F1+) Start at lower rockband, below recess line. Climb short open book, moving out left and up to grassy face. scramble to foot of main rockband.

2. 15m (F1) Climb the crack up to a tree, then traverse to the left over a big block to a good tree belay and stance.

3. 40m (F1) Continue up to the left over blocks to a little overhang. Traverse 2m to the left, then climb a grassy face to a good ledge with a tree belay and stance.

4. 40m (F2) Move a bit to the left and climb up to a tree directly above the belay ledge. Traverse to the right, step down and across the main crack. Continue up to the right onto a block, then climb a weathered face above a little overhang. Surmount this and continue for 6m to stance above.

5. 43m (F1) Traverse 8m to the right to a smooth open book. Straddle and pull-up to the right. Continue diagonally up to the right to a good stance.

6. 30m (E2) Move up 3m then diagonally to the left to the top.

Note: This route partly resembles a climb called Spinnekop opneed in April 1950 by D R Bell and B I Harris. The first pitch starts 50m t ot the left of Carnivorous. The second antd third pitches are synonomous. Unfortunately it was not possible to trace the original route rom pitch four onwards.

The lower section follow the largest area of grey rock on the South East side of the mountain. Start 150 steps to the left of the fence, which runs straight up to the rock face. Start at tha large tree growing 3m away from the rock face.

1. 18m (E2) Climb up to stance above tree inside cave-like recess.

2. 22m (D) Step up to small ledge on right and traverse right out of recess. Climb up to ledge on right. Traverse 3m right into crack and up to stance

3. 30m (E2) Move up boulder on right. Traverse round corner and up crack past small overhang to ledge with blocks.

4. 40m (E3+) Climb corner above to grass ledge. Follow grass bands via exposed crack with tree on top, and to next tree which is below major rockband.

5. Scramble 5m up to grass ledge and walk left along ledge to a chimney and recess.

6. 15m (E2) Climb up to overhang and left to stance.

7. 24m (E3) After a long pullup, follow easy rock slightly left to a bush.

8. 18m (D) Climb diagonally left to rockband and climb out right to main grass band, which divides the upper and lower sections of Hanglip.

9. 30m (F2) The upper section starts just to the right of the highest point of the grass band, where it begins to dip steeply downwards to the right. Start well to the right, going up over a series of long ledges, then move left of a pile of small blocks to an overhang. Traverse left just under the small overhang and up to a block on whicha stance can be made.

10. 15m (F2) Traverse left along ledge, crossing an open gap by climbing down 2m in an exposed position, or alternatively climbing up and jumping down from a sleng point (E).

11. 33m (F2) From the belay climb up to ledge and traverse right until it is possible to break through rockband above (very tricky on loose rock). Continue right along rock band and up to grassy ledge and stance.

12. 16m (F1+) From the top of a block mantleshelf onto ledge and climb out to the right.

13. 18m (F2) Start about 13m to the left of a square corner by climbing open book to overhang. Traverse right to cubby-hole.

14. 4m (G2) Ascend bottomless recess to another cubby-hole. Originally done on aid (F2 A1).

15. 20m (E3) Traverse to the right and then climb up to an open book recess. This recess is climbed to a stance on a grass ledge.

16. 20m (E3) Climb a crack and work out to the left by climbing up to an overhang. Complete the route by climbing out to the right.

FA: R. Barry, C. Purdham (1937-12-25)

Variation: Starting from the top of pitch 8 to near the bottom of pitch 12, this section can be climbed in two direct pitches.

Decent: If the climb is completed in daylight, a fairly quick descent, involving a short abseil, can be made in the vicinity of the first saddle behind the main peak. As this route is not easy to find in darkness, late parties are advised to contour around on the rough, bushy slopes of the next 'hump' to a more obvious route where a steep grassy gully breaks the rock faces.

To decent to Hanglip North, the descent is as follows: From the top beacon of Hanglip, keeping basically right, descend to a neck between a small koppie and Hanglip. The koppie overlooks the valley of Hanglip North. DO NOT go down the gully, but descend the slope diagonally left of the gully.

Start in a recessed chimney 50m to the left of the fence (boundry).

1. 25m (E2) Traverse out of chimney to the left and ascend diagonally over broken rock to stance at a tree.

2. 40m (F2) Continue up steep rock directly above belay then traverse diagonally left, move up an open book (awkward) and continue left to a stance.

3. 20m (D) Climb up diagonally left then up right to the bottom of a right-angled recess.

4. 30m (F1) Climb the recess to a little tree, then traverse left along a ledge under overhangs to big blocks. Continue up diagonally right, over the overhangs into a recess and traverse delicately right to reach stance on a big block.

5. 30m (E2) Scramble up at first then diagonally left into a recess. Traverse left and climb diagonally right and up to the top of the first rockband.

6. 30m (F2) On the second rockband start about 25m to the right of the normal route. Climb a face until a ledge is reached, which is at the same level as the top of a rock pillar on the right. Traverse right moving over the pillar to a stance.

7. 30m (F3 A2) Traverse right 5m into a recess. Climb the recess and traverse slightly to the right and then back into upper recess. Climb overhang (aid) to a small ledge, ascend the crack on the wall above (aid) and move right to small recess and ledge (awkard and exposed move). Climb up to large ledge then traverse left to a stance with a big block.

8. 25m (F3) Traverse diagonally right for 4m. Pull-up a short step and climb a corner. Traverse left along a ledge to below a smooth open book. Climb the open book to a cubbyhole. The stance is shared with top pitch 12 of Hanglip Frontal. (This pitch is possible G1 for short climbers)

9. 20m (G1 A1) Traverse left 3m and aid up 2 points to a ledge (or move over normal overgang of pitch 12 of Hanglip Frontol Route thereby eliminating the aid). Move right into a corner, ascend the flared crack with difficulty and move out right at the top. Scramble up 3m then climb up a slab moving delicately over a bulge to beneath a little overhang. Layback out to the right and climb up to a ledge. (Stance shared with pitch 14 of Hanglip Frontal Route)

10. 30m (F1) From an old ring piton traverse right slightly for 2m and climb the face to a ledge, ascend the crack above and cotinue diagonally right to the top.

The climb starts 10m to the right of where the boundary fence terminates against the rock face. This is about 100m to the right of the start of Hanglip Frontal.

1. 25m (F2) Ascend the steep recess to a ledge on top of a protruding spike.

2. 20m (G1) Continue up awkwardly on thin holds, move over to the left and climb up to some chockstones.

3. 25m (F3) Continue up to a small tree under an overhang. Climb the recess above and exit out to the left. Move diagonally left then up a recess to a stance.

4. 30m (F2) Climb the recess above to just below overhangs. Traverse awkardly left around a bulge until it is possible to climb up diagonally right then up through a break to a stance at a small fig tree.

5. 45m (F2) Ascend the corner above for 3m then traverse right about 6m. Climb up to the grass band. The top section goes up the very prominent recess which goes straight to the top (to the right of the leaning pillar). Beacon.

6. 25m (F3) Climb up on left then back right into recess. Climb a small overhang (fixed peg below) and continue up passing a smooth open book until reaching a cave.

7. 22m (F3) Climb out on the right side of the cave then up to a ledge.

8. 40m (G2 A0) Climb the recess above, move slightly right then back left into upper recess. Climb delicately up to under an overhang. Pull up onto a narrow ledge using one aid handhold (A0). Continue delicately up to a small open book. Move up then right and through a crack to a ledge. Climb up a crack then diagonally right to a ledge beneath an overhang.

9. 25m (G3) Move up and strenuously climb the overhang. Continue up the stepp recess (F3) until it is possible to climb right and up to a ledge.

10. 40m (E1) Climb to the top.

The climb goes up a recessed crack with a prominent hanging bush halfway up on the first buttress to the right of Hanglip. The climb starts to the left of Born Free and directly beneath the hanging bush. (Beacon).

1. 20m (D) Scramble up a recess to a ledge above.

2. 20m (F2) To the right-hand side of a little white streaked amphitheater are a few boulders with a tree growing out horizontally. From the top of the boulders climb a recess to a small stance below a tree.

3. 15m (F3 A2) Climb up and through the tree then continue up alternatively using aid. Enter a cubby-hole and move past a tree to a stance.

4. 30m (F2) Chimney up to a loose flake then traverse right 3m onto an exposed face. Climb a crack in the face and continue diagonally right to the bottom of the chimney with the hanging bush.

5. 12m (F3 A1) Ascend the chimney then using aid in the final 3m make a hanging belay below a little overhang in the roof.

6. 20m (F3 A3) Semi hand-traverse left 3m then straddle up to a footrail. Move back to below the roof and up to where a good wedge can be placed in a vertical crack. Aid out on the roof and continue with difficulty up to a stance at the start of a recessed chimney.

7. 40m (F1) Continue up the chimney to a stance on top of a chockstone.

8. 40m (F1) Climb past a chockstone at the back then out of the cave. Ascend a few boulders and climb past or over a bush into the continuation of the chimney. Climb up the left side then traverse out on a ledge beneath a narrow crack. Climb out at the end and continue to the top.

1. 30m (F2) Climb recess to tree belay.

2. 15m (F3) Climb wide crack to ledge and tree belay.

3. 30m (F2) Climb recess above to cave-like cubby-hole.

4. 25m (G1) Climb up for 3m and traverse left to ledge. Ascend to right hand ledge (mantleshelf) to base of open book. Jam and layback up crack to overhang. Traverse out left to block and chock belay. Scramble up to ledge (10m).

5. 35m (F3) Start at right hand corner. Climb crack to grass and traverse left for 15m into a recess. Ascend recess to ledge and chock belay.

6. 25m (F2 A1) Ascend corner for 2m and traverse left for 8m. Ascend steep face using one sling aid.

7. 25m (E3) Walk left to end of ledge and climb recess to top.

The climb starts at the very lowest point of the rock face directly below a large open book high above.

1. 20m (F2+) Climb crack to big ledge (beaconed).

2. 15m (F1) Walk slightly diagonally right to tree belay beneath open book. Ascend open book to chockstone belay.

3. 30m (F2) Climb right-hand open book deviating left 10m up where crack becomes over-hanging. Return to open book and climb via tree to large ledge.

4. 35m (F2) Climb left-hand crack system and continue up open book to comportable stance and chock belay.

5. 15m (F2) Continue climbing open book to good stance and chock belay.

6. 22m (F2+) Climb left to hanging bush above to grassy ledge. Continue up crack to tree and chock belay.

7. 35m (F2) Climb open book to top.

Start 5m to the left of green barked tree at foot of main recess.

1. 20m (F2) Climb recess with awkward pull-up take-off. Climb through exit under block to tree belay.

2. 25m (F3 A1) Climb short face 4m to right of recess. Traverse into recess and climb same, using one sling aid at small overhang. Continue to cave and tree belay.

3. 30m (F2 A1) Mantleshelf to big ledge above cave. Continue to ledge with loose flakes. Using two aid moves, climb overhanging recess. Continue up recess to chockstones in deep recess.

4. 15m (F3) Climb bottomless recess to ledge and chock belay.

5. 25m (F2) Chimney past overhanging block and continue to cave-like stance.

6. 20m (F2) Chomney recess above. Continue left via tree to stance.

7. 30m (F3 A1) Ascend recess using two étrier moves. Continue via very narrow and awkward chimney-type recess to tree belay on left of recess, after crawling under a huge block.

8. 20m (F2) Ascend a few steps and mantleshelf onto a block. Traverse right to start of exit recess. Climb to top.

The climb goes up a recessed crock and chimney system on a buttress 50m to the right of Born Free. Scramble up to ledge below big overhang (20m above).

1. 15m (F1) Climb a crack past a tree to big detached block and ledge.

2. 15m (F2 A1) Ascend the crack 5m, then aid up to a hanging tree, continue up left to a stance, long ledge.

3. 20m (F2) Climb the recessed crack on the right, move slightly left on a ledge then up a chimney to a cubby-hole.

4. 15m (F2 A2) Chimney up at first then traverse right under a roof. Aid up over difficulties and continue 5m to stance.

5. 23m (F3 A1) Aid up 3m then move strenuously up to a chockstone. Climb past the chockstone and continue to a tree in the chimney.

6. 18m (F2) Chimney up 3m then traverse right to beneath chockstones. Climb past the chockstones and continue up to top of another big chockstone.

7. 25m (F2+) Chimney out to the right then awkwardly to gain a ledge. Climb up beneath a tree then continue up the chimney to a large chockstone. Traverse left into darkness, then climb up to upper cave.

8. 25m (F1) Traverse right 3m and do two mantleshelves. Continue to the right to a recess which is climbed to the top.

The climb is situated on the second buttress to the right of Hanglip. The route goes through the lower face then up a recess and face to the left of the red faces of the second buttress. Start 5m to the right of a tree below some overhangs.

1. 18m (F3) Pull up and mantleshelf onto a ledge then move left about 1m into a recess with a crack. With a handjam move up then traverse left and up to a stance at a tree.

2. 18m (F3) Traverse left 4m and climb onto a ledge. Traverse back right to below a recess. Climb up delicately to a small stance at a tree.

3. 30m (G1) Move up the crack above and fist-jam out to the right up the crack. Climb delicately right and up to a ledge. Continue right then up a gully to a stance and tree. Scramble left along a ledge to where the ledge narrows.

4. 40m (F2) Climb up a buttress on the left and make one pull-up move. Continue up then right to a big boulder at the start of a ramp.

5. 40m (F1) Climb the ramp (20m) then move left above into a recess. Climb the recess then move out right and up to a stance with tree.

6. 45m (F1) Move left then up the recess into a cave. Straddle up and move out right at the top. Continue up to a tree. Climb left onto a face and stance.

7. 40m (F1) Climb up diagonally right then pull up and traverse right to a balancing boulder. Climb onto the top and ascend a face diagonally right to a recess. Climb out left to a stance.

8. 45m (E2) Continue to the top.

Decent: Walk down the gully on the left.

1. 40m (F3) Scramble to big grassy ledge. Walk left to tree and climb corner t big ledge. Ascend open book to stance below overhang.

2. 20m (F2+) Traverse left to corner and ascend corner to ledge and tree belay

3. 15m (F2 A1) Climb smooth recess to tree (A1) and scramble into deep chimney

4. 20m (G1 A1) Traverse out to lip of overhang, using one sling aid to gain height, and pull up into deep recess. Climb recess to big ledge.

5. 30m (F2+) Climb open book to deep recess. Follow recess to ledge.

6. 40m (F3) Climb chimney. Traverse left and ascend corner in crack to ledge. Ascend recess to top.

The route follows the big open book on the right-hand side of the rock band leading up to the prominent overhang.

1. 25m (D/E) Scramble to foot of main face.

2. 45m (F2) Climb first crack to right of centre wall to top of loose pillar.

3. 15m (F2 A1) Clim up 2m in corner to small tree. Traverse right, move up one move (A1) and left again (A1). Continue diagonally for 2 moves (A1). Swing left into wide jamming crack and ascend same to stance.

4. 15m (F3) Climb open book to ledge in corner.

5. 23m (F2 A2) Continue up open book to overhanging crack. Mixed A2 and free climbing leads to piton and chock belay below overhangs.

6. 25m (F1+) Climb up to small ledge and traverse about 4m right. Mantleshelf to fairly wide ledge below hanging rock on face. At same level traverse right to below loose rock pillar on right edge of overhangs above. Climb past rock pillar to narrow ledge and stance.

7. 30m (F2 A1) Climb up diagonally left to ledge. Use one aid move to ascend into right recess. Climb recess and use another aid move to gain ledge above. Traverse left around corner to tree and continue to top.

Note: Poor rock is encountered on this route.

Scramble to foot of lower main face.

1. 25m (F2) Start in centre of face. Ascend face to join diagonal recess running from right to left. Follow recess to big ledge.

2. 25m (F1) Climb left hand chimney system to narrow ledge below first bulge.

3. 15m (F2) Follow crack system. Surmount three successive bulges to grass ledge above. Traverse left around pinnacle and scramble up to ledge with blocks.

4. 20m (F1) Ascend left hand side of pinnacle to top.

The climb is situated on the buttress to the right of Black Sunday (3rd rock band). It starts about 100m to the right of the gully. Take off from a grey block underneath an overhanging recess (beaconed). The upper line has a big grey face on its right.

1. 25m (F3) Straddle crack into narrow awkard cubby-hole. Ascend cubby-hole (crux) to foot of chimney and belay.

2. 30m (E3) Ascend chimney to ledge. Walk diagonally left to foot of pillar.

3. 25m (F1) Ascend right-hand side of pillar to large cubby-hole just 3m below top of pillar.

4. 20m (E3) Ascend sloping face to tree below crack.

5. 35m (F3) Climb crack to overhang. Chimney up out of roof and climb to stance 4m above.

6. 15m (F2) Climb crack to tree belay.

7. Traverse 30m left to below series of black rounded ledges.

8. 35m (F1) Ascend ledges (yellowwood tree 5m up) and scramble to top.

R. Druschke, E. Druschke (October 1977)

Variation: Begin about 40m to the left of the original start.

1. 40m (F3 A0) Climb chimney, crux after 10m (sling aid). Continue through hole at top. Belay next to overhanging rock.

2. 45m (E3) Follow line to top of pillar and continue along ramp to tree belay.

From here variation joins main route.

E. Müller, H. Seuring (September 1980)

The climb follows the distinctive line of the crack system. A huge green face borders its left hand lower side.

1. 35m (F2) Climb the slopes, which lead to the start of the crack. Stance below tree.

2. 30m (G1) Climb up to tree. Follow crack with difficulty. Belay in cubbyhole.

3. 30m (G1) Climb open book for 15m to small overhang. Move delicately out under overhang onto continuation of open book. Ascend to cubbyhole, move further up on block into chimney.

4. 30m (G1) Continue up chimney and move out to the right onto small ledge. Climb 5m to bulging overhang. Straddle and pull up to small platform above.

5. 30m (F2) Continue up to overhangs and climb out diagonally left to grass ledge.

6. 40m (F2) Climb through upper rockband and scramble to top.

Start about 30m - 50m right of Apple Jam, where the ledge peters out and there is a crack in the face above.

1. 25m (F3) Climb the crack to a stance.

2. 30m (F3) Continue up (lack of runners) to a traverse line to the left. Traverse out at this level and round the corner to stance.

3. 25m (F3) Climb the crack above, through a roof to a stance.

4. 30m (G1) Continue through roofs to a stance.

5. 15m (F2) Continue to top.

The climb follows a line up the centre of a buttress to the left of a large grass ramp, which ends at the neck between the main krantz and the free-standing upper section of the buttress. Scramble up to grass ledge below buttress. Take the second crack from the right, which has a tree growing out of its lower section.

1. 40m (F2+) Climb crack for 30m and step left onto ledge below crack in open book.

2. 28m (F2) Climb crack for 20m to platform. Step down left 3m onto face. Tension traverse left fro 3m (peg in place) to stane around corner.

3. 15m (F2 A1) Climb bulging crack above (A1 - 2 moves) and tontinue to ledge.

4. 25m (F2+ A1) Climb crack to tree (2m above large ledge). Traverse 10m right into recess (topped by large overhang).

5. 15m (F2 A1) Climb recess to small stance and chock belay.

6. 20m (F2 A2) Climb via bulging face (A1) to below overhang. Traverse left and surmount overhang (A2) to ledge. Scramble right and up to top.

The climb is situated on the tower to the left of Tarantula basically following a prominent crack to the right of Skydiver, which takes the centre line.

1. 12m (F1) Start at beacon. Climb wall of lowest rock band.

2. 15m (F2+) Climb the left edge of the recess with some creepers hanging down for approximately 4m. Move right into open book and climb up past some hanging creepers onto ledge, continue up crack to small ledge with tree and natural eye belay.

3. 15m (F2+) Continue up open book, surmount overhang and up to ledge.

4. 35m (F2) Climb the lay-back type crack to the right of the main crack to tree and continue up main crack to stance.

5. 25m (F3) Ascend crack to just below main overhang. Move directly out and then onto left wall. Stance around corner.

6. 20m (E3) Continue up face and cracks to shoulder of pinnacle.

7. 20m (F1) Climb short face next to right corner (pull-up) and up to top.

The climb starts at the large V on the left half of the Buttress and continues up the center and widest of three cracks running up all the way to the top. These cracks are located in the corner, left of Tarantula.

1. 80m (C/D) Climb and scramble two short rock pitches and grass slopes to base of cracks.

2. 20m (E3) Start in recess formed by centre crack. After 8m, move out left and continue up past tree to stance. (Dassie crawl along ledge and take off from tree to overcome hanging rock.)

3. 30m (F2) Continue up in left-hand side of crack. Rock in rear of crack very loose and brittle at this stage. Move out on face to left where necessary.

4. 20m (F3) Move up very strenuously until a narrow footrail can be reached on left-hand wall of chimney. Move out and back again over block to stance at tree.

5. 30m (F2) After take-off from tree, move left into narrow chimney. A flake on the left wall provides handhold high up. Straddle straight up to large overhang and broad ledge on left.

6. 15m (D) Traverse around left to adjacent narrow crack.

7. 25m (F1) After difficult start in narrow chimney, straddle up to overhang, move out right and back again to stance on wide ledge with big trees.

8. 20m (F2) Continue up left-hand crack past overhanging corner.

9. 30m (F2) Chimney up and clear crack at top by moving left. Scramble to right and to top of krantz.

Goes up the very prominent chimney/crack right of Disillusion and left of Tarantula. Scramble 50m up the grassy recess just left of Tarantula and traverse right to the base of the crack.

1. 25m (F2) Climb up, negotiating an overhang halfway up on the right via a precarious looking block, to a large stance below a narrow chimney.

2. 25m (F2 A2) Climb the chimney past the overhang above using two large nuts for aid. Continue more easily to a comfortable stance in the chimney.

3. 30m (F2) Climb up first on the left and then on the right to the large overhanging slab blocking the recess. Traverse right immediately underneath it to an exposed stance on the arête.

4. 35m (F3) Climb up steeply just left of the arête, moving precariously into a vegetated recess above. Continue easily up this to stance.

5. 20m (E1) Starting in crack to the left, climb to the top.

The route runs up the centre of the third rock band north of Hanglip proper. It is easily distinguished by the following descriptions: A corner with a large open book will be observed approximately 100m up. In the middle of the open book, a strip of white rock is noticeable. To the left of the route there is a large grassy ramp, ending short of a free-standing rock tower.

1. 30m (F2) From the beacon, ascend the crack which narrows in the centre. The overhang at the top is avoided by negotiating the left-hand wall.

2. 35m (F2+) AScend broken wall to large shelf. Climb the corner on the left with stance on second shelf.

3. 35m (G1) Traverse 1-2m to the right and ascend the face until directly under the overhang. Traverse right to ledge below large open book.

4. 18m (G1) Use aid to get off the ground, and climb the following 5m free. Two further aid moves are required to attain a small fig tree. A small stance will be reached 6m higher.

5. 15m (G1) Climb to the top of the open book. Aid was used to negotiate the bulge and to move off the stance.

6. 27m (F1) Traverse to the right and climb up a short crack - then traverse 16m to the right onto a grassy band.

7. 25m (F2) Climb the receding ramp in the corner. The crux is below a tree that grows out of the corner approximately hald way up.

8. 40m (E2) Climb the right hand crack to the summit.

After being so impressed with the corner on which Tarantula is situated we decided that the Tarantula should have a mate, even though it was of a different species. Tarantula and Black Widdow make exiting Hanglip climbing.

1. 30m (F2+) Climb the second crack to the right of Tarantula i.e. the major corner below the overhang above. Stance on top of a pillar.

2. 25m (F2 A2) Climb up corner to large ledge, follow crack and overhang (aid) to small stance directly above.

3. 20m (G1) Climb crack to a tiny one-man stance.

4. 20m (F3 A1) Continue up crack and overhang (A1). Then traverse left and up to large stance common with Tarantula.

5. 10m (F2) Traverse to the right and around to the next crack.

6. 35m (F3) Climb up crack to overhang, traverse left and up to a small cubby hole.

7. 30m (G1) Move out to the right and up a crack to a largish ledge and continue up crack immediately above last stance, to a big vegetated ledge.

8. 40m (F3+) Climb up slightly overhanging crack (crux) behind stance, continue up crack to a ledge. Go left a few meters and continue up the chimney to the top.

The climb is situated on the left side of Amphibian Tower.

1. 25m (F2) Climb crack system directly to the left of the Tower to large cubbyhole.

2. 25m (F2) Climb out left of cubbyhole and continue straight up to ledge. Traverse 2m right to bottom of crack and climb same to ledge and large block.

3. 20m (F1) Walk into corner and straddle up open book to ledge and then diagonally up left around Tower. Ascend a shallow corner to gain the main recess.

4. 25m (F2) Move up to neck. Start on the left corner of the final tower, traverse back right and climb corner and up right to a small awkward ledge from where it is possible to traverse right to virtually the front of the tower, then ascend to the top.

The climb is situated on a prominent rock pinnacle in front of the rock-fold where the route Tarantula is found. The route follows a crack in the front of the pinnacle for about two-thirds of the way and then continues up the right side of the pinnacle.

1. 8m (F2) Mae a delicate mantleshelf move up a ledge in the front of the pinnacle below the prominent steep crack. Move 1.5m to the right and then ascend a small crack to ledge at start of the main crack.

2. 40m (F3) Ascend crack for 4m past first crux, continue past another difficult section until a bulging crack is reached. To avoid a loose block, traverse onto the right wall for 2-3m, then move up and traverse back on a sloping slab into the crack. Climb the crack -through an overhang - past a small tree and make a stance on a ledge by a deep crack.

3. 25m (F1) Move up the crack to its top, then up wall. Move up an open book recess and continue up wall to a traverse leading to the right, (approx 5m below an overhang - a piton was left above in the corner to the left.) Traverse right to a large ledge on the right-hand side of the pinnacle. Make a stance.

4. 40m (F2) Move around to the right into the first possible crack line. Follow this up and then ascend to the top of the pinnacle. Do not follow the crack between the pinnacle and the main wall.

Decent: Abseil down the right side of the pinnacle (facing the pinnacle from below).

Note: The route was called Happy Landing in honor of a frog who managed to descend the pinnacle in very good style, especially in this age where artificial methods are being questioned, by making one big leap. After being slightly stunned on the ledge at the beginning of the second pitch, he made a delicate traverse to the left and then left up to make the final jump. We took the liberty of calling the pinnacle Amphibian Tower.

Start 20m left of an obvious chimney with round overhangs.

1. 35m (F2) Climb the corner of a crack for 15m then move diagonally right to a recess. Climb straight up the recess to easy ground. Tree belay.

2. 40m (E3) Climb straight up keeping left out of gully in easy rock.

3. 40m (E2) Continue up to a short chimney. Block belay at top.

4. 30m (F1) Traverse right to a small recess (2m high). Climb straight up for 5m then traverse right into a chimney stradling up into the back of the chimney. Belay (poor).

5. 20m (F1) Bridge and straddle up and out of the chimney and to a ledge.

6. 35m (F1) Traverse left over a fault to a wall and climb to a ledge. Traverse right along edge to a wall on the right side of the fault. Climb up to a platform and tree belay.

7. 20m (F1) Scramble into the back of a chimney and up through a hole to a ledge. Tree belay.

8. Scramble to top.

The line goes up a big open book about 100m to the left of the right-hand gully. It starts to the left of some impressive overhangs capping a huge sheer face. The climb commences up the very next open book to the right of a prominent rock buttress seen on the lower section of the climb.

1. 15m (F2) Climb open book to ledge and tree belay.

2. 20m (F1) Climb fault on the left up into chimney and chock belay.

3. 25m (E2) Climb deep left-hand chimney and traverse out right to ledge.

4. 40m (E1) Ascend recess to ledge and then walk diagonally right to face and climb same; walk right around corner to below huge open book.

5. 25m (F1) Straddle and surmount chockstone and then walk into back of recess and chimney up and out of recess via big leaning flake. To avoid overhanging recess with bush at its top, traverse out right and climb up to next ledge. Traverse back into crack and chockstone belay.

6. 25m (F2) Follow fault to large ledge below open book.

7. 20m (F2) Climb open book with some strenuous moves and mantleshelf awkwardly to ledge and stance.

8. 20m (F2) Continue up open book. Stance below final roof on ledge.

9. Walk along ledge to first corner and scramble to top.

The climb is situated at the right hand side of the gully about 80m left of Octopus. Obvious crack line which disappears about two thirds of the way up the face.

1. 18m (F3) Climb left side of crack to tree and traverse right for 3m. Climb up 1m underneath roof and continue traversing into chimney.

2. 40m (F3) Ascend chimney for 15m. Traverse left 3m on small holds. Climb up 20m to large ledge.

3. 40m (G1 A0) Start behind huge block in left-hand corner. Climb up for 5m and walk back to crack (right). Climb past small tree, follow left ramp and traverse out on top to cubby hole. Move out of cubby hole, using running belay as a handhold. Climb up to left corner of overhang, fix running belay, climb down 1m and traverse right for 8m. Ascend to large ledge above. The start of the traverse is the crux and was climbed with rope tension.

4. 40m (F2) Walk left for 15m. Climb up and diagonally left for 8m (F2). Grade-E climbing completes the route.

1. 23m (F2) From the tree, climb directly up the crack to overhang and then traverse 2m left to tree belay.

2. 20m (E2) Climb up to large cubby-hole, then move to the right from under overhang onto a shelf below groove.

3. 22m (F3) Climb crack for 20m and then traverse left to stance.

4. 25m (E3) Climb chimney above through tree to smooth face with cubby-hole on its left.

5. 25m (F2+) Climb right-hand crack for 4m and then traverse left from under overhang. Continue to deep cubby-hole.

6. 20m (E3) Squeeze through narrow wormhole and climb up past large chockstone to stance.

7. 25m (F1) Climb past chockstone and big block to tree.

8. 30m (F1) Straddle up chimney to big block. Dassie-traverse out left. Mantelshelf 3m from corner to ledge above. Traverse delicately to the right back into gully.

9. (40m) E3 Walk up gully and ascend left-hand crack. Traverse out right and climb chimney to top.

Start 10m left of Woody Wood³.

1. 35m (G1 A1) Climb the groove until the crack fizzles out. Tension left of a blade to another crack and up to stance.

2. 40m (G1 A2) Climb through the first two roofs free and then into a groove. Aid up and through (6 points) and to a ledge on the right. Continue up to a ledge to belay.

3. 40m (G2) Traverse left back into crack and up to small stance in left-hand crack.

4. 40m (G2) Move up for 5m then back into right-hand crack. Continue up this to stance below and left of a tree.

5. 30m (G2 A2) Move right and up to tree. Continue up the crack free through a horrendous crumbling roof to below the final overhang. Aid through (2 points) and belay on the right.

6. 30m (F2) Traverse right about 10m then up and back left and up a crack to scrambling ground.

Note: Hard and serious with a lot of poor rock but good runners. Recommended for suicidal maniacs. Take four pegs [in 1980, what should we take today?].

The climb is situated on the fourth rock-fold (counting a smaller one) west of the Hanglip peak, and goes up the prominent crack to the right of Octopus, i.e. third crack from the left. Scramble up to the sloping grass ledge, then up to a crack on the right (F1). Traverse to the left into another crack. Ascend 5m to a tree and continue up to a third tree.

1. 25m (F1) Climb crack and move out by a rock-flake. Continue up and make a stance on a large tree.

2. 25m (F2+) Move up, then chimney out to overcome a small overhang. Move up crack until it is possible to chimney out underneath a chockstone. Climb up on the left to a tree belay.

3. 20m (G1) Move up for 2m to gain a crack on the right for the first aid move. Move over to the left wall (bong) and then through overhang (A2). Free climbing to second chockstone where a stance is made in a deep cubby-hole. (Opened on Aid)

4. 30m (F1+) Continue up crack until an obvious barring overhang is reached. Climb out to the left and up 4m to a stance.

5. 35m (F2) Climb diagonally up left following a crack line until a ledge with a 90° corner is reached. Climb the shallow groove 2m to the right of the corner and upwards to below some overhangs. After having moved up a small block, mantelshelf onto an overhanging but sharp edged ledge to the left.

6. 25m (F1) From the large block on the left of the ledge, climb up slightly to the left then right into a rounded crack. Climb this and then up to the top.

Descend down the left-hand gully (facing the rock).

The climb is situated on the left corner of the next rock-fold to the right of Octopus. Start below arch formed by pillar (left).

1. Climb face on the main wall, traverse left and mantelshelf up ledge. Climb prominent crack for approximately 20m to overhang, break out right to ledge.

2. Climb up a few metres then diagonally up left on main face, round corner into chimney and continue up to to block (F2). (Top of pinnacle was climbed after Pitch 1.)

3. Step down and traverse left under overhang into crack (2m). Climb crack to ledge (F3).

4. Walk to crack behind stance and climb same, continue up awkward groove and cracks to a stance (F2). Walk around to the right to a chimney, climb this to big grass ledges. Zig-zag through upper grass and rock bands (F2).

The climb starts below a tree-covered ledge to the left of two large overhangs.

1. 25m (F2) Climb the groove until there is a definite lay-back crack below the ledge. Climb this crack 18m and continue a further 7m onto the ledge to a tree belay.

2. 35m (F2) Climb the obvious crack on the right starting with a rather narrow chimney. Continue upwards past a white block, then past an overhang. The stance is made on a very small but comfortable ledge.

3. 25m (F1) Move to under the overhang, then traverse out left and climb up the edge at the end of the overhang. Move up and then traverse right into a good crack. Climb this and move onto big grass ledge.

4. 20m (F1) Climb up the bulging block, then continue up the crack.

5. 30m (F3) Continue up the crack until only about 2m of the difficulties remain. To avoid these traverse 2m right then move up to a ledge. Continue up past some overhangs to a stance at a tree.

6. 35m (F1) Climb obvious crack route keeping left and make stance at a tree.

7. 20m (F1) Climb the crack directly behind stance, then scramble to the top.

Descend the left-hand gully (Facing the rock), but this is not advisable in the dark.

The climb starts from the left-hand edge of a ledge a few metres up and 10m left of the prominent recess (Split).

1. 15m (F3) Climb rotten looking face (surprisingly sound) then move up into corner. Ascend corner up to overhang, then traverse out left moving onto a ledge. Make a stance at small cubby-hole at start of crack.

2. 30m (F2) Ascend crack above to small ledge at crack marked by some small chockstones.

3. 30m (F2) Continue up crack until the crack becomes less defined. Swing right and move to the top of large flake. Move up a ledge to the left and continue left to a chimney formed by a large block and the main face. Stance on top of chimney and first grass band.

4. Scramble to the base of a large crack around to the left.

5. 90m (F1) Start on right wall, then climb crack, passing a deep hole near the top of the climb.

Climb taking a line straight up the first tier by way of a distinct chimney.

1. 5m (E1) Climb up to a ledge with a tree and continue for 3m up a chimney.

2. 42m (F3) Climb the chimney to a good ledge.

3. 30m (F2) Traverse slightly to the right and up into the continuing crack system for 20m. Traverse left to a good ledge. Climb up a short wall and continue traversing to a tree belay.

4. 42m (G1 A1) Walk around to the left to the first open book. The line takes the crack in the corner of this open book. (Protection is poor at times.) The crux is halfway up the open book. Two etrier moves are made at the top section of the crack (one peg in place). Continue up to overhangs then traverse right from under the overhangs to a shallow carck. Below a crack filled with roots from a wild fig tree, climb straight up to a good ledge.

5. 40m (F1) Traverse diagonally right over a block up onto a wall. Traverse left and then straight up to a series of ledges. Bearing right, continue until rope drag forces one to make a stance.

6. 40m (E1) Zigzag up a number of grassy ledges to the base of a small chimney.

7. 20m (E2) Ascend the chimney then traverse left to tree belay.

1. 30m (F1) Ascend grey face 6m to the right of the prominent crack (Split) moving out slightly left after 7m, then right, to a tree. Move up 10m to the tree belay at base of crack of rock pyramid.

2. 30m (E3) Continue up crack and chimney to chock belay.

3. 25m (F2) Move out diagonally right onto front face of the pyramid. Climb face to the top of pyramid belay large overhang above.

4. 35m (F2) Move diagonally right then up to overhang. Traverse left until clear of overhang and continue diagonally left for 5m, and climb face to first grass band.

5. 30m (F3) Climb some horizontal rock bands passing a statue-like rock on the left into a crack. Ascend crack, making a stenuous move through a narrow bottomless chimney. Stance just above on good ledge.

6. 40m (F2) Move into right-hand crack f recess climbing partly on the right-hand wall. Climb through overhanging chimney until it culminates near the top of this second rock band.

7. 40m (E3) Move up to final overhanging band. Traverse right for 12m then break through to second grass band

8. Scramble diagonally right and then left through easy rock to the top.

1. 30m (E3) The start is beaconed. Climb the left-hand side of the recss to a tree about 16m up. Continue up for a further 17m to a small stance with a tree belay.

2. 35m (F2) Continue up the recess to a large stance with a tree belay. Hand-jam up the right-hand side of the crack to the level of a projecting slab. Traverse to the left and then continue up to a large stance with a tree belay. Beware of loose rock.

3. 20m (F1) Climb the right-hand side of the recess, using a narrow wedge move, to reach a large stance with a tree belay.

4. 20m (F2) From the beacon on the stance traverse to the right for 10m to a right-angled crack. Climb straight up the crack for a further 10m, or alternatively climb straight up for 5m, traverse to the left for about 3m on a dassie traverse, move over an exposed drop and climb up and back into the crack. From here walk directly across the grass band to the next recess.

5. 27m (E1) Climb straight up to a tree. Move to the left and continue climbing to a square edged ledge stance.

6. 20m (E3) Climb up the chimney, moving outwards over the overhang. Continue up to a fairly narrow ledge stance with a boulder belay.

7. 25m (F3) Ascend the left-hand side of the recess, then 3m below the overhang traverse to the right-hand side of the recess. Now move up and out to the right to get out of the overhang. Continue a further 7m upwards bearing to the right to a large stance with a tree belay.

8. 10m (F3) Two variations are possible:

   • (F3) Mount the first 2m in the corner, then traverse 2m to the right. Using a knee-jam and hugging pincer-grips, mount a awkward bulge and continue up to a large tree.
   • (F2) Mount the first 2m in the corner, then traverse to the left along the ledge to an open book topped by an overhang. Layback up the open book, swing around to the right and then move up to the tree.

9. 60m (D) Climb to top.

Shares pitches 1 and 2 with Exposure: On the same buttress as Prelude there are two prominent cracks in the form of a V. Start just to the right of the left arm of a smaller inverted V cone, which is just to the left of the junction of the large V cracks.

1. 27m (E1) Ascend an obvious route, about 3m to the right of the recess, for 13m. Move to the left, and then climb up to the next big tree.

2. 13m (F1) Climb diagonally up to the right from the right-hand side of the stance then climb to a wide grass band. Walk to the right to the front of the right-hand crack and scramble up to a large tree.

3. 25m (F3) Climb up the main crack to a ledge.

4. 7m (G1) Ascend the overhanging crack to a large block belay. If this pitch is done with the aid of a shoulder it is F3.

5. 23m (F2) Climb 13m in the crack to a ledge. Here there are three alternatives:

   • (F1) Move to the left across and up to a ledge for 2m. Climb the overhang for10m to a ledge. Block belay in corner.
   • (G1) Climb the overhanging crack, on rotten rock, to a belay.
   • (F3) Move up to a narrow horizontal crack. Dassie-traverse to the nose. Climb up the nose to a belay.

6. 25m (F3 A0) Climb up the crack for 5m, then using a shoulder for aid to overcome the bulge, continue to a large block 13m higher. Move diagonally to the left for 7m to a large ledge where there is a good belay.

7. 27m (E2) Continue up to the left for 17m on easier ground, then climb the recess for 10m to a ledge using a piton belay.

8. 17m (E1) Move down a few metres and then traverse to the left. Continue up 13m to the left to a large block.

9. 13m (E1) Move up a few meters, traverse to the left for 7m, and the climb straight up for 5m to a ledge where there is a block belay.

10. 37m (F1) Several alternatives become possible, zigzagging up ledges to a ledge directly above the previous stance where there is a block belay (poor protection).

11. Move into the corner and climb grade-D rock for two rope lengths to the top.

On the same buttress as Prelude there are two prominent cracks in the form of a V. Start just to the right of the left arm of a smaller inverted V cone, which is just to the left of the junction of the large V cracks.

1. 27m (E1) Ascend an obvious route, about 3m to the right of the recess, for 13m. Move to the left, and then climb up to the next big tree.

2. 13m (F1) Climb diagonally up to the right from the right-hand side of the stance then climb to a wide grass band. Walk to the right to the front of the right-hand crack and scramble up to a large tree.

3. 30m (F1) Climb 3m up the crack behind the tree. Move to the right for 4m and then climb the right-hand side of the recess. Piton belays are necessary and loose rock presents a hazard.

4. 40m (E2) Here the route is suitable beaconed. Traverse on a ledge out onto the right-hand face. Mantelshelf onto the next ledge and then ascend the centre of the face passing two beacons en route. Traverse to the left back to another beacon, ascend the recess for 1m and then traverse to the right back to the centre of the face. Carry on straight up to a large stance.

5. 30m (F1) From the back of the stance, ascend for 3m before traversing to the left to a right-angled crack. Climb a tricky 3m and continue to the left to a tree in a recess about 5m below a large overhang. Move to the left on an obvious and very exposed ledge. Either 'dassie traverse' on this ledge or climb up 1m to the next ledge and traverse on finger tips to a boulder belay point.

6. 33m (E2) Zig-zag up an exposed face using a series of mantelshelf moves to reach a good stance with a cairn on it.

7. 43m (D) Move diagonally off to the right for 13m. Easily scramble to the top.

The climb spirals up and around the buttress and starts 100m up the kloof.

1. 20m (D) Up broken grey face to ledge, slightly right of obvious open-book recess in the face above this ledge.

2. 30m (E2) Traverse right (out of kloof) along ledge.

3. 20m (E2) Continue traverse to bushed section of ledge.

4. 30m (F2) Scramble unroped about 30m along the bushed section of ledge onto the corner. Belay at this point. Climb up 6m immediately above the highest point of the ledge, traverse 18m right, then 6m up open book (using left hand side) to ledge and piton belay.

5. 33m (F2) 5m up open book immediately above belay point. Traverse right 23m. Towards end of traverse two steps each of 3m are made. (First 5m is F2, rest is D-E)

6. 18m (F2) Continue traverse over delicate section and make exposed "swing up" move to piton belay on ledge.

7. 12m (F2) Move down 3m into cubby-hole at foot of vertical crack which is then climbed for 9m to ledge at foot of the second section of the crack.

8. 18m (F2) 6m up crack into chimney of easier standard which is climbed for 12m to ledge.

9. 33m (D) Traverse 15m into corner of relatively large recess, the left hand side of which is climbed for 18m to belay point on ledge.

10. 30m (E2) Diagonally up out of the main recess onto large platform on left hand wall of recess.

11. 30m (C) Traverse right 18m, diagonally up to left 12m, 30m scramble then leads to a nek overlooking the kloof and almost immediately above the start of the climb.

12. 15m (E2) After walking 30m along grass ledge from the nex, traverse 3m round corner into grassy open book which is climbed to ledge at foot of vertical section.

13. 33m (F2) 6m up right-angled corner, traverse right 9m and then up 3m over grass. Traverse right 9m and up 6m also over grass.

14. 30m (E2) 5m up open book. Easy traverse right 25m to corner and tree belay (first on climb).

15. 30m (E1) Up broken ridge to small beacon. Unroped scrambling along the ridge for about 115m then leads to the summit beacon.

Start at a prominent right-angled corner in the large face to the right of the Prow.

1. 40m (F1) Climb crack to stance 7m below where crack narrows.

2. 25m (F3 A2) Traverse right 5m using a peg hand hold. Climb up to a high hand rail (2 pegs). A bathook is used to place a good protection peg to the night. From the bathook hand-traverse and traverse right (10m). Climb (1 peg) to a stance (5m).

3. 30m (F3 A1) Climb 10m then traverse back to chimney (a high peg was used for tension). Climb crack (23m).

4. 16m (F2) Climb chimney and face (a few metres to right).

5. 50m (E2) Up crack and loose blocks.

6. 23m (F1 A1) Up cracks (use a nut) and left to stance.

7. 20m (E1) Climb round corner to left and scramble to top.

Micro’s are useful for this climb, especially the top half of the second pitch. Protection is good.

Notes:

1. This climb is poorly protected. In some places don’t even think of falling.

2. Micro’s are essential.

About 50m to the left of the start of BAPM are a series of big red overhangs. The route takes a line through these, finally traversing out to the right. Scramble to a big ledge beneath the overhangs. Start to the right, beneath a steep, broken recess.

1. Pull up into recess then move out immediately right onto ledge. Continue up to another recess & up this to a roof. Rail left under the roof to a ledge. From righthand side of the ledge, pull up into a short off-width crack and climb this to the roof. Traverse to the right under the roof to a grassy ledge. Scramble to the top.

This route climbs the easy rock to the left of BAPM.

1. 30m 10 Diagonally left then up to blocks on ledge.

2. 30m 13 Left along ledge then up grey face to tree on ledge.

3. 30m 12 Traverse right along ledge, then diagonally right to tree on next ledge.

4. 30m 15 Move 7m right along ledge then up to beneath overhang. Traverse some distance left, then up (crux) to the top.

Scramble up to the start of BAPM. On the orange face up and to the left of the candleflame is a bolt. Start 5m to the left of BAPM, below the obvious corner.

1. 35m 22R: Climb the corner to a small ledge. Traverse the orange face past the difficult-to-clip bolt (tricky), to the right arête. Climb straight up past another bolt to an overhang. Pull strenuously through the overhang on the right and diagonally up the ramp to the right in the groove above. Climb easily to a tree belay. Scramble to the base of BAPM's second pitch.

2. 22m 21 Climb the crack just to the left of BAPM until it peters out. Continue to the right and up past a bolt. Take care over the huge blocks and lichen and finish as for BAPM.

Notes:

1. There are rap bolts at the top. Need replacement leaver biners or maillons. One 60m rap puts you back on the ledge at the start of the route from where its straightforward to scramble down.

BAPM takes a fairly direct line up the buttress opposite the deep 'pothole pool'. Scramble up to small flat overhangs on the lower grey section of the buttress.

1. 15m 10 Climb past the overhangs on the left, step to the right and continue straight up to a large ledge below steep red and black rock.

2. 25m 19 Climb up 2m then undercling to the right to the left hand side of two cracks which form the candleflame shape as seen from below. Move up to the top of the 'flame' and continue up to the right to belay on a small ledge next to a tree.

3. 25m 7 Move around to the right into the main corner, which is followed to large ledges (this portion is common with MARTHA). Climb to the right to the ledge at the foot of the appealing final crack, which runs up a zone of red rock right of an overhang.

4. 25m 21 Follow the crack as it curves up to the right. When it fades, move up and to the left beneath the grey overhang. Traverse to the left past a dubious block until the top can be reached by climbing steep grey, lichen-covered rock (18A1).

Notes:

1. There are rap bolts at the top. Need replacement leaver biners or maillons. One 60m rap puts you back on the ledge at the start of pitch 2 from where its straightforward to scramble down.

2. It makes sense to do this route in two pitches – scramble past the 1st pitch on the right, and link pitches 2 and 3.