Routes in North Grampians for selected grade

Start at 'Ghoulies' on the west side (1.5m left from the south arête) but move to the right through the middle and top bulges.

Easy line just left of Crimps of Doom, starts under flake feature a few metres left of arete. Straight up to prominent flake then up on jugs, finishing at highest point on wall. Good pro.

Crack addiction. Follow the major splitter to the convenient anchor above WtB. Shuffle some cams not larger than a #4.

Good fun! Up the shallow corner and golden honey slab above. Initially led with one bolt and specialty pro. The anchors smell like honey but don't lick them.

The crack line right of Durry Puncher, ending at the same anchors. Originally climbed on gear but now converted to a fun sport ramble. To start either bridge off the tree, traverse in from the left, or add two grades and climb it direct.

2m R of Terabithia. Step off the blocks to gain the big slot. Over the rooflet following the runnels of least resistance to the large ledge and DBB. Lower now or belay and abseil for the full adventure.

You'd have to be. In the cool cave R of Monosynaptic is a large suspect broken flake. Climb the R side beginning at an undercling before traversing left to the other side, horizontal at feet. Continue up to the big ledge to belay off the flat boulder. Walk to FPA anchors to descend.

Scramble to the top of the big boulder to access the left of the two big cracks. Climb up to the good belay ledge on the right. Descend via TFC lower offs, may need to stay roped up to access them.

This starts 10m right of Aunt Glad at a corner capped by a roof.

1. 12m Head up the corner to the roof then step left onto a ledge on the arete.

2. 24m Climb straight up to the top with a number of bulges along the way.

Start 2m right of Deflowered’s terrace to belay on the next ledge. Head up the crack until a big knob is reached, step left, then go up to a ledge. Go right a little then climb the wall above.

From near left end of ledge pull steeply into right facing corner.

It was meant to climb the hanging corner but didn't.

Start: Start well below and R of the hanging corner at a distinctive V-corner, just L of the cave.

The left most corner, then move R and up the crack.

Lovely arete.

Start: Start as for 'Little Women'.

10m right of Greater Tuberosity and 10m left of Big Chimney Corner. There is a small left facing flake corner 10m up. Climb up to the base of this corner. Straight up from here, moving left into the shallow water groove at the top.

Corner, then L wall, behind chockstone and either bridge or climb face.

Start: Line R of 'Cooking In Chernobyl'.

Crack 10m R of Explorer's Groove.

A tricky start leads to enjoyable climbing.

Start: Start just R of the twin cracks, 15m R of 'Petite Fleur'.

An enjoyable lower grade climb up a great line, which should become more popular now that it has a rap chain (since May '07).

Start: Back down at ground level, just before the track passes under the overhangs there is a major corner.

1. 21m (13) The crack just L of the corner to a ledge. Up the chimney to another ledge below a large roof.

2. 22m (13) Step across the gap and move around the roof and up the corner. The route originally topped out, but a chain has been added allowing a 30m abseil to a ledge 2m off the ground at the base of the climb. People using this abseil should wear helmets because of the fragile nature of the rock.

Takes the R-leaning diagonal.

Start: Start 4m L of 'Past Glories', near some broken flakes.

1. 30m (13) 'Steep' moves to gain the start of the diagonal which is followed past a cave and a flake to a belay ledge.

2. 15m (13) Move a little L, chin through the roof and easily up R to top or move R from belay and finish up 'Past Glories'.

The left-hand, curving line on Bullant Wall. The finish is a bit of a surprise.

A good'n.

Start: Start at the initialled R-facing corner down the left end of 'Back Wall'.

Bouldery start.

Start: Start 2m R of A.

Not appealing, and the tree-branches obscuring the climb don't help.

Start 1 metre left of the large cave-recess on the western side (about 5 metres left of Eye Of The Needle) at a sharp crack/corner.

2m right of the Glum Chum. Initialled. Pull over the bulge, then continue to the top.

Start 15m R of the chossy chimney and immediately R of smooth orange wall. Up corner / arete, leading to a juggy chimney up high.

Corners to small roof, take this up right-hand side and up to top.

2.5m right of (? Electric Pink). Straight up.

Not the beginner route that Kevin tried to pretend it was.

Start: Starts on the front side of the 'Pump Action' boulder, facing the 'Hollow Mountain' carpark.

Easy choss crack climbing.

Start: Start beneath the right side of the 'Amnesia' Pillar.

1. 20m (13) Up mossy slab for 5m to roof. Skirt right under this for 3m. Up wide right facing chossy mossy flake to belay on ledge behind pillar.

2. 25m (13) Up the orange wall to traverse right until able to move up the guano covered pillar. Continue right to jugs and up.

Not a classic.

Start: Starts at the middle of the large block 6m to the right of 'Journey Through Nicaragua'. Marked by small white square.

Start 8m left of Sunlight And Shadow. Up the crack to the overhangs. Step right and follow the black streak to the top.

The next line 3m R of Bums Rush. Keep in the line at the top.

At the R end of cliff, R of Sunstroke, straight up to arete, then diagonally L and across the face immediately above lip of the overhang.

Spectacular. The arete, then up and over the square roof.

Start in the middle of the face. Line leading to the L end of the square cut roof and up the corner.

Supposedly this climb is on an outcrop above Pigs in Space buttress, below the main wall (more or less between DD and EP. Takes the obvious corner line.

The short corner then the easy angled corner right of DD. (Could be a repeat of Cheap and Nasty).

L leading line / corners at the R end of the 3rd Terrace - more or less directly above WTGAD. Can also be more easily approached by climbing the first 2 pitches of DD and up this, rather than traversing off R.

Mossy crack and short corner to roof, step left, up to next roof, step left (suspect rock) and up to ledge. Walk off right.

Start: 40m left of 'Bad Penny' there is a break in the overhangs with 2 corner lines about 6m apart. The right one. Cairned.

Corner on other side of buttress, about 18 metres left of 'Guillotine'. Initialled.

Cliff-splitting chimney on left side of grey wall. about 30 metres left of where the track hits the cliff.

A worthless variant on existing routes with about 15m of new climbing, and that is dirty, vegetated and loose. You don't even want to know where it goes.

Head up the right side of a cracked recess 10m right of Impulse.

At the LH end of the cliff a R leaning crack/chimney line. Committing pull up into line then up more easily. A BD#3 in a shallow pocket to the L of the line protects the start.

Start at the arête R of Seamless. Up L of the arête, step L at a ledge to the thin juggy cracks, up these then L up arête to finish through break.

This climb is on the left-hand side of the outcrop. Climb up to the ledge, then traverse right under a block and climb the chimney.

Approximately 15m right of Blue Sky Mining is a black slab.

1. 30m Climb the slab and crack in the orange overhang. Belay on an appropriate ledge.

2. 25m On the right side of the grey wall is a shallow corner. Climb this to a ledge then step right and continue up the wall above.

2 interesting pitches. Start at the L arête of the slab, down and R of Six Cents.

1. 20m 13 Up past FH to ledge/ramp. Up short flake then slab between 2 left most seams to steeper headwall, up this exiting slightly L onto easier ground. Belay at half way ledge.

2. 15m 13. Up into break behind ledge. Step out L and up steeply to below roof. Step L and up at break. This is the best of the finishes above the half way ledge.

3m R of EN corner. Up thin crack to below bushes, step out R and head up slab past 3 glue-in bolts [take flat brackets] moving R at the top to join Jihad Jack. Up this to DBB. Abseil descent

1. 35m 13. The chimney line on the L of the Blackbeard buttress [2.5m R of BG]. Once above the chockstone move into the crack on the R wall and follow this through the steepening to large ledge.

2. 15m 10. Up RH crack in wall above, then R to abseil bolts.

Narrow buttress between Bimbo Bender and the Rhino pinnacle.

1. 12m Up the middle of the buttress to large ledge and tree.

2. 10m Crack with steep start.

Straight up crack 2m right of British Marmite.

Climbs the highest, slabby west face with limited protection.