Castellane - Les Gorges du Verdon Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Castellane - Les Gorges du Verdon 1,759 routes in Region

3 4 5 1 2 6

1 Les Gorges du Verdon 2 Esparron de Verdon 3 Cadières de Brandis 4 Chasteuil 5 Le Teillon 6 Quinson

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.812004, 6.227776

summary

Le parc naturel régional du Verdon s'étend sur 188 000 hectares dans les départements des Alpes-de-Haute-Provence et du Var. (source: wikipedia)

description

Le Verdon dispose de 933 voies d'escalade, dont la falaise verticale de l'escalès de 300 mètres, la plus haute gorge d'Europe. Les grimpeurs, les vautours et le paysage constituent donc un spectacle indissociable pour les touristes... (source: wikipedia)

access issues

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

inherited from France

ethic

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

inherited from France

1.1. Les Gorges du Verdon 1,567 routes in Crag

19 1 2 16 18 17 14 9 3 4 12 10 5 7 13 6 15 8

1 Félines 2 Le Galetas 3 Au gré du gris 4 Belvedere de Mayreste 5 Main Morte 6 Malines 7 Imbut 8 Eycharme 9 L'Escalès 10 Rive Gauche 12 Col d'Ayen 13 Mirroir du fou 14 Valaute Gauche 15 Free Tibet 16 Le bunker 17 Teens 18 La Tête de singe 19 Moustiers

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.806205, 6.317045

summary

Classic exposed sport climbing in a beautiful natural setting.

description

The deepest limestone canyon in France and often considered the most beautiful in Europe. It's about 25km long and 700m deep in some places, adding plenty of exposure to the more than 1,500 routes (from 5a to 9a+) that have made its reputation worldwide. The area is popular for its sustained multi-pitches, classic single pitches and for its natural beauty.

access issues

The gorges are the home of a few protected bird species. Some areas may be closed during nesting season.

approach

You will need a car to access most routes and areas. The closest town is La-Palud-Sur-Verdon where you'll find a climbing shop, accommodations and a camping site.

Routes are accessed either by abseiling or by walking. Approach time can vary between 5min and 2h.

where to stay

Camping is prohibited in the gorges. Note that the river is managed by EDF (french electricity provider) which operates the dam upstream. Don't stay near the river when water is being released as the level will change rapidly. There have been accidents in the past.

1.1.1. Félines 37 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.818540, 6.252175

1.1.2. Le Galetas 66 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.802364, 6.253327

1.1.3. Au gré du gris 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.777401, 6.273509

1.1.4. Belvedere de Mayreste 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.775472, 6.278550

description

Beautiful wall with some good quality multi-pitches.

approach

Walk to Belvedere de Mayreste for about 5 minutes, then go right for about 25m, and then left. follow the track with cairns that will lead to the cliff.

1.1.5. Main Morte 98 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.766284, 6.318654

1.1.6. Malines 39 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.748309, 6.327311

description

Big wall with several multi-pitch routes. Well bolted. Approach by descent from a road above the cliff.

approach

Find the entry to a path marked with stone cairns, located along the road next to Arete du Belvedere (on the left when walking from the viewpoint in the direction towards La Palud-sur-Verdon). The path is steep and exposed, in some places it's necessary to scramble down. At one point it becomes too sketchy to walk down and a series of at least 5 rappel stations allows to get down safely. Be sure not to miss them! The first one, as most of them, is built out of a collection of climbing slings fixed on a bush, with a pair of quicklinks to thread the rope through. In one case here's a bolt. Once you've rappelled down to the bottom of the canyon, head left for about 100 m, circumvent the first crag until you find yourself at the base of a yellow-tinted overhang. Most multi-pitch routes are in that area, and most of them have names written on the rock at their base.

1.1.7. Imbut 107 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.754382, 6.318502

1.1.8. Eycharme 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 43.738908, 6.357128

1.1.9. L'Escalès 583 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing, Aid climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 43.772605, 6.380298

1.1.10. Rive Gauche 478 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.766971, 6.312690

description

The climbs in the south side of the Verdon Gorge.

1.1.11. Fayet 0 routes in Crag

1.1.12. Col d'Ayen 42 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.769431, 6.319985

1.1.13. Mirroir du fou 36 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.752821, 6.364990

description

Petit falaises de 35m de haute

approach

Sur la route D23 des crêtes à 11,5 km de La Palud. Au belvédère de Guègues dans le première parking jusque avant le tunnel.

1.1.14. Valaute Gauche 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.785627, 6.392155

1.1.15. Free Tibet 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.739818, 6.351013

1.1.16. Le bunker 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.793417, 6.401683

1.1.17. Teens 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.788010, 6.407660

1.1.18. La Tête de singe 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.790780, 6.406983

1.1.19. Moustiers 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.851845, 6.248022

summary

Some crags around Moustiers

1.2. Esparron de Verdon 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 43.738407, 5.963359

summary

A tiny deep water solo area for rest days.

description

This is a great swimming spot to cool off in summer and has a few easy DWS lines with potential for more. Rock is not very solid so take care.

approach

Walk 30min from the village car park along the right bank. Set up a hammock and you're in business. Can also be reached by boat (rent one at the port).

1.3. Cadières de Brandis 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.847965, 6.446103

1.3.1. Menhir 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

1.3.2. Tour Centrale 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.3.3. Tour Est 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

1.3.4. Minus 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.4. Chasteuil 21 routes in Crag

6 4 8 9 7 10

4 Baisodrome 6 Arrivée du chemin 7 La Tranche 8 Les Toits 9 UF2 10 Les 3 Satufiables

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.835608, 6.415061

1.4.1. Baba chiffon 0 routes in Sector

1.4.2. Crépuscule des idoles 0 routes in Sector

1.4.3. Ambassadeur 0 routes in Sector

1.4.4. Baisodrome 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.835411, 6.414641

1.4.5. Archimède 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.4.6. Arrivée du chemin 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.835598, 6.415851

1.4.7. La Tranche 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.834903, 6.414290

1.4.8. Les Toits 0 routes in Sector

1.4.9. UF2 0 routes in Sector

description

Left from the sector "Toits"

1.4.10. Les 3 Satufiables 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.834814, 6.412878

1.5. Le Teillon 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.833833, 6.572612

1.6. Quinson 136 routes in Crag

9 8 7 6 5

5 Sous Saint Michel 6 La grotte 7 Dalle de Thomas 8 Menteur 9 Aspre

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.697415, 6.040469

1.6.1. Rive gauche 0 routes in Sector

1.6.2. Rive droite 0 routes in Sector

1.6.3. Sunrise boulevard 0 routes in Sector

1.6.4. La quille 0 routes in Sector

1.6.5. Sous Saint Michel 29 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.695848, 6.033291

1.6.6. La grotte 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.695880, 6.033115

1.6.7. Dalle de Thomas 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.697150, 6.033276

1.6.8. Menteur 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.698264, 6.033217

1.6.9. Aspre 83 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.700704, 6.050122