Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur 27,739 routes in Region

2 1 11 6 5 3 9 8 10 4 7

1 Gap (Hautes Alpes) 2 Briançon (Hautes Alpes) 3 Avignon (Vaucluse) 4 Marseille area 5 Castellane - Les Gorges du Verdon 6 Nice - Monaco (Alpes Maritimes) 7 Toulon (Var) 8 Estérel (Var) 9 Gorges de Châteaudouble (Var) 10 Provence verte (Var) 11 Digne-les-Bains (Alpes-de-Haute-Provence)

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.044426, 5.969330

access issues

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

inherited from France

ethic

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

inherited from France

1.1. Gap (Hautes Alpes) 1,522 routes in Region

16 17 3 15 14 13 18 4 2 11 12 1 9 10 7 8 6

1 Orpierre 2 Céüse 3 Pont-du-Fossé 4 Savines-les-Lacs 6 Ribiers 7 Chateauneuf-de-Chabre 8 Chanteduc 9 Col Saint Ange 10 Pierre Grosse 11 Sigottier 12 Ventavon 13 La Roche des Arnauds 14 Roche Rousse 15 Dalle de Gleize 16 Pont de Ponsonnas 17 Massif du Dévoluy 18 Bloc Session Gap

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.538076, 6.189680

1.1.1. Orpierre 483 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.316621, 5.696150

summary

The climbing village

description

Orpierre is a convenient and popular destination with more than 600 routes from 3a to 8c. It features sectors ranging from single pitch to long routes, all safely equipped and within walking distance of the town & campsite. No month reaches 10 days with considerable perception. It's no wonder that Orpierre is ever-popular, even if some of the routes feel more than a little polished.

The town is a model for well-managed sport climbing areas: There are car parks and signs for climbers everywhere. The tracks & paths are maintained, well visible and good to walk. Routes are very well bolted, bolt density is higher near the ground and at difficult parts of a route, typical distance between 2 bolts is 1-3 meters, lower offs consist of at least 2 bolts interconnected via noteworthy solid chain, rock & metal are checked and maintained often. If routes start from a ledge or other exposed positions, belayers can secure themselfs at bolts or steel cables. Where stones are likely to fall, e.g. below a track or a coomb, nets made of steel ropes are installed.

While being a small village, you'll find an old town, a climbing shop, a climbers orientated gift & clothes shop, two restaurants, a mini-market and plenty of accomodations in Orpierre.

For mates or days neither feeling like climbing nor hanging around, there are signposted MTB trails, the beautiful & diverse landscape invites for moderate hikes as well as hikes with over 1000 elevation meters, and for bike tours into the surroundings. Sisteron is the next bigger city and worth a trip, not only because of the rock formations but also the old town and the citadel. Some sights are in between.

The topo paper guidebook Orpierre – Grimper dand les Pays du Buëch - Châteauneuf, Ventavon, Savournon, Sigottier, Buëch nord is published by FFME, produced by the local climbing club, and is available in the town. It's updated & extended every few years. Online shops tend to not reliably update the catalog/meta info but only the cover images, hence a listing extending the one at orpierre-escaladedurable.com by further editions and more infos:

• Edition 2020, 26€, 280 pages, ISBN 978-2-9544-5752-9, cover shows 2 photos side by side with climber on the right. Maps and orienation photos have been considerably improved.
• Edition 2016, cover shows on the left a white text on red background, on the left a hand clipping a quickdraw
• Edition 2016, cover shows on the left a photo of a guy climbing, on the right an overview photo of the town below a red bar containing the "Orpierre".
• Edition 2013, 256 pages, EAN 9-782954-457505, cover with photo inside a sketched carabine
• Edition 2006, 160 pages, cover with full size photo showing climber on left

approach

Within Orpierre, town, restaurants, climbing crags, etc are just a short walk – there's no need to drive anywhere. All crags are very well sign-posted and finding them is mostly a matter of starting in the right place and following them.

Orpierre is located around 8 km west of the river Buëch which is accompanied by the street D 1075 connecting to Grenoble in the north and to Sisteron in the south.

Approach by car is easy and comfortable. Streets are well maintained & secure. There are many parking possibilities.

Public transport to Orpierre itself consists of only a school bus, but...

• ...a pooled car ride may be found at blablacar.fr (it took over www.CoVoiturage.fr which is still signposted 10/2022 in the area)
• ...in Eyguians, the ( stop44.34616, 5.77087) called Garde-Colombe - Eyguians Mairie is served by far distance buses, and for the last 8 km to Orpierre, you may walk, cycle, take a taxi or hitchhike – good chances someone gives you a lift because everyone knows about the missing public transport. The far distance buses are operated by ZOU, called "Car LER" or "Ligne Express Regionale", clean and modern. Route 31 connects Nice with Grenoble central station, drives 10/2022 twice a day but only the first drive towards Grenoble reaches Eyguians. It leaves around 11:45 (exact time differs by few minutes depending on the day) and to Grenoble, it takes 110 min and costs 18.50€. Route 33 connects to Gap; TODO: Add more details.
• ... the train from/to the north (Grenoble), the line "VIF" is temporarily shut down due to reconstruction works and shall serve Aspres-sur-Buëch again starting 12/2022. During works, for nothern desinations like Paris, Switzerland or Germany, it's quicker to first take the bus to Grenoble and from there take a train than to go by train south to Marseilles. TODO: Add details about connection between Aspres-sur-Buëch and Orpierre.
• ... the train from/to south, there is a connection from Laragne to Marseille. Laragne is 13 km driving diatance, but by bike, the heavily used D 1075 is no fun – the 2.5 km detour via nearly unused D 330 is worth a consideration.

where to stay

There are several gîtes in town and around.

The campsite is located a 7 min walk from downtown. It is big, has considerable infrastructure ranging from warm showers over washing machines to a swimming pool, offers spaces for tents, caravans and mobile homes, and rents huts and tents. The campsite is divided into the part Les Noyons with 2  and the part Les Princes d'Orange with 4 . Only the second one includes access to the swimming pool, only this rents huts & tents, and only this is opened in the cold part of the year.

history

Orpierre's climbing history starts in 1983 when Dominique Jugy and Pierre-Yves Bochaton bolt the first modern routes. With the help of mayor Raymond Chauvet, they bet on sport climbing to bring new life to the village. Today, Orpierre is also known as "le village qui grimpe" ("the climbing village").

1.1.2. Céüse 632 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.502479, 5.948867

summary

Welcome to one of the best crags in France (and the world?)

description

Céüse ("say-uz") is known for long, hard and steep routes but there is something for everyone here: from steep and juggy, to vertical and technical, to bolted single pitches and trad multi-pitches...

Then there's the location: the cliffs are perched on top of a 2000m mountain with a majestic view on the south of France.

This is a great summer destination for sport climbing where you'll get to jump on classic climbs, some of historical importance such as 'Biographie'[15807193], the first 9a+ in the world.

approach

There's always a catch and this is it: the walk-in is a real pain which will take between 45m and an hour depending on much stuff you carry and how fit you are. From the campsite, follow a marked site passed a horse shed until you reach a well-worn path leading upwards. Follow this past a staggered junction on a forest track until you get to a track that contours several hundred meters below the crag.

where to stay

Campsite "Camping Les Guerins" located some way beneath the crag.

ethic

Leave no trace.

history

Patrick Edlinger is believed to have been one of the first to recognise the importance of Ceuse for "futuristic" climbs. He was convinced after running around the cliff and brought some friends to start bolting hard routes. Not having much money to buy bolts, their routes were often pretty run-out but soon enough, Ceuse attracted strong climbers from all over the world.

Chris Sharma made the historic ascent of 'Biographie'[15807193] in 2001 (bolted by Jean-Christophe Lafaille in 1989, 'first part'[2378646186] freed by Arnaud Petit that same year). The full route was later graded 9a+.

1.1.3. Pont-du-Fossé 89 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.679395, 6.250727

description

Nearby Pont du Fosse village you can find different crags for different levels of climbing. The city worth the visit too.

1.1.4. Savines-les-Lacs 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.543584, 6.398781

description

This is a crag of conglomerate stone, with overhanging routes. Some of the easier routes are polished.

access issues

There is an official park that requires you to walk 15 minutes in the village. It is also possible to park in other places, in the street, nearby the path to the route.

approach

10 minutes walking in a easy to identify path

1.1.5. Pont d'Hyere 0 routes in Crag

1.1.6. Ribiers 0 routes in Crag

description

Topo : Grimper dans le Val de Méouge, 2013. 64 pages. 10€

1.1.7. Chateauneuf-de-Chabre 45 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.276206, 5.803461

description

Topo : Grimper dans le Val de Méouge, 2013. 64 pages. 10€

1.1.8. Chanteduc 0 routes in Crag

description

Topo : Grimper dans le Val de Méouge, 2013. 64 pages. 10€

1.1.9. Col Saint Ange 0 routes in Crag

summary

South facing limestone ridge with magnificient view.

description

Topo : Grimper dans le Val de Méouge, 2013. 64 pages. 10€

Lower offs are 2 bolts interconnected with a chain.

approach

From the north, you can drive to Beynaves with public parking, a toilet, water and some forestry information plates (FR only) and walk from there 200 altitude meters and 1.6km distance.

From the south, some say (TODO verify) you are allowed to drive until Col de la Croisette with a car and walk from there, nearly 300 altitude meters and 1.4km distance.

1.1.10. Pierre Grosse 0 routes in Crag

description

Topo : Grimper dans le Val de Méouge, 2013. 64 pages. 10€

1.1.11. Sigottier 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.454010, 5.697140

1.1.12. Ventavon 55 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.403220, 5.914102

1.1.13. La Roche des Arnauds 37 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.569012, 5.922759

description

Limestone crag. Practical because of its easy approach and fast access. Driving time from Gap is 16 minutes. Winter is quite sunny. Summertime is greatest towards the end of the day.

Initiation sector: From III to 6a, handmade simple routes with stone pieces attached, holes done manually, and cement to avoid slippery areas. Suitable for children.

Remaining sectors: recent routes (equipped in 2013/2014) with name and rating at the bottom. Routes 5a-6c and 7-8 at the end on the left in the arch.

access issues

16min driving from Gap

approach

Park at the lot indicated by the Google location. Take the route straight at the end of the parking lot, cross the small river if not dry, and return to the walkway. One arrives thus at the sector of initiation.

From the initiation sector, take a path on the left that climbs steeply then continues horizontally to reach the right part of the upper sector.

1.1.14. Roche Rousse 34 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.624735, 6.523965

description

The rock here is limestone, schist and flint. It's basically thin layers of rock (like a millefeuille) that are on top of each other, angled sideways from west (up) to east (down). Because of this you'll have big jugs and good feet on the more west facing climbs, and more tricky grips on the south facing ones.

Always wear a helmet here since some parts of the rock are quite loose and pretty much every climb there will be some (small) rockfall.

1.1.15. Dalle de Gleize 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.632329, 6.044221

1.1.16. Pont de Ponsonnas 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.881720, 5.792825

1.1.17. Massif du Dévoluy 84 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.700803, 5.886451

description

Topo : Oisans Nouveau, Oisans Sauvage, Jean-Michel Cambon, 2018. 400 pages. 26€.

1.1.18. Bloc Session Gap 0 routes in Gym

summary

https://www.blocsession.com/salle-escalade/gap/

1.2. Briançon (Hautes Alpes) 3,449 routes in Region

1 2 3 4 5 9 8

1 Clarée 2 Guisane 3 Briançon 4 Vallouise 5 L'Argentiére 8 Guillestre - Roche de Rame Area 9 Queyras

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.826303, 6.649228

summary

Perfect region for summer time due to the high altitude and very diverse because of the different rock types.

description

Get the Briancon Climbs guidebook for more information and to support the development of the area.

where to stay

There are many camp-sites in the region.

1.2.1. Clarée 137 routes in Region

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.027753, 6.625826

1.2.2. Guisane 229 routes in Region

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.948147, 6.545808

1.2.3. Briançon 755 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.933950, 6.505005

summary

Crags located near the town of Briançon.

1.2.4. Vallouise 959 routes in Region

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 44.882959, 6.456462

1.2.5. L'Argentiére 187 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.785744, 6.503703

access issues

Do not run over people enjoying a coffee in the little village of Argentiere! This will only cause access issues!

1.2.6. Freissiniéres 0 routes in Region

1.2.7. Vallée de tramouillon 0 routes in Region

1.2.8. Guillestre - Roche de Rame Area 1,062 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.663386, 6.658940

1.2.9. Queyras 120 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.720189, 6.847103

description

Topo : Escalade en Queyras - Pays du Viso, S. Pusnel et G. Vallot, 2013. 366 pages. 26€

1.3. Avignon (Vaucluse) 4,717 routes in Region

5 24 4 17 15 3 6 22 7 23 8 20 19 9 16 13 12 10 2 11 18 1 14

1 Les Alpilles 2 Buoux 3 Dentelles de Montmirail 4 Saint-Léger du Ventoux 5 Les Trois Rivières 6 La Combe Obscure 7 Gorges de la Nesque 8 Venasque 9 Pont Julien 10 Oppede-le-Vieux 11 Oppède Brécugne 12 Supermarché 13 Cavaillon 14 Saint Anne-de-Goiron 15 Rochers du Groseau 16 Fétide Beach 17 La Carrière du Maupas 18 Lourmarin 19 Le Pan d'Avignon 20 Bloc Session Avignon 22 Villes-sur-Auzon 23 Méthamis 24 Basses gorges du Toulourenc

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.800256, 4.992424

1.3.1. Les Alpilles 1,272 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.741495, 4.888654

1.3.2. Buoux 807 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.824515, 5.382950

summary

Buoux ("bee-yooks") is a classic sport climbing crag which was extremely popular in the 80s. It's famous for its pockets, desperate slabs and spaced bolting.

description

"Through the 1980s and early 1990s, Buoux was considered the best crag in the world, the place where the best Euro-jocks came to play and to experiment," Stewart Green wrote in Rock Climbing Europe. "Here they honed the rock skills needed to open Ceuse, today's 'best crag in the world.'"

Many consider Buoux to be a hard crag because it requires to be highly skilled on slabs. It can get pretty hard on fingers since some routes are just made of sharp pockets. Bolts are a little more spaced than more recent crags, adding a mental aspect to the overall difficulty.

The crags are located in the Aiguebrun Valley, one of the largest massifs in Vaucluse.

access issues

Climbing is only authorized from the sectors "Face Ouest" to "Bout du Monde" on the Aiguebrun cliff. All the other areas, including the Confines cliff (on the opposite side) are currently on private land and are closed. Camping and fires are prohibited.

Climbing was forbidden in Buoux for more than a decade. The last area to have been reopened is the Face Ouest area which was re-opened in 2010 with many new routes and some classic lines rebolted.

Not respecting these rules could lead to the area being closed again.

approach

The closest town is Apt, about 15min away by car. There are 3 car parks at the base of the cliffs. Park only in these car parks, not on the road and not at the Fort de Buoux car park which is for tourists only. The 1st car park is best for Face Ouest, the 3rd car park is best to access sectors close to Le Pillier des Fourmis.

You'll need to cross a little river to reach the base of the routes (with the help of a short cement bridge if you come from the 3rd car park). A track runs along the cliffs, parallel to the road. The approach can be between 5 and 15min depending on where you parked and where you're climbing. Some areas require climbing to access (Les Devers) but most are easily accessible from the ground.

For a detailed description on how to reach Buoux by fair means visit the Ecopoint Web-Site.

where to stay

If you keep following the road after the 3rd car park, you'll reach a dirt road which leads to L'Auberge des Seguins, a charming spot at the base of the cliffs, a restaurant, a swimming pool and 27 beds.

You can also stay in one of the paying camp sites in Apt (15km away).

Camping is not tolerated in Buoux.

ethic

• No camping
• No sleeping in car parks
• No fire
• Don't leave any trash
• Brush off your chalk and tick marks

history

Development started in the 70s, focusing on multi-pitches and slabs. In the 80s, climbers started freeing more and more projects leading to an explosion of new routes. The first 8a were freed in 1983 (Ca Glisse au Pays des Merveilles, Patrick Edlinger and Rêve de Papillon, Marc Le Menestrel).

Popularity then soared, with thousands of climbers visiting the area on some of the busiest weekends. In the 90s, with the development of other crags in the region, Buoux became less popular but is now being revisited by keen climbers from all over the world.

Buoux is still being actively bolted nowadays by Antoine Le Menestrel (who married the daughter of the Buoux Mayor who once banned climbing), Pierre Duret, François Lepron, Bruno Clément and others.

1.3.3. Dentelles de Montmirail 755 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.157191, 5.028360

summary

The area has varied styles of climbing throughout. Slabs, vertical walls and at times steep overhanging tufa style routes. Grades range from 3b to 8b+ on single pitch and multi-pitch routes. Enjoy!!

description

The Dentelles des Montmirail are essentially located on the lands managed by Gigondas "Counsel Locale" in Provence, France. They consist of three limestone chains orientated east-west. The Cascade De La March and the Great Wall are located on the lands managed by Lafare. The Rock St Christophe is on private land and climbing is possible all year in all of these areas.

Topo : Grimpe aux Dentelles 2, CAF Avignon, 2016. 128 pages. 17€

1.3.4. Saint-Léger du Ventoux 580 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.214885, 5.243665

summary

Saint Leger is up there with the other great masterpieces of French sport climbing. This is a hard crag but there are enough gems in the mid 6s to justify a visit.

access issues

Leave no trace. No camping.

approach

Saint Leger lies just off the D40 that runs from Mollans-sur-Ouveze. There are different approaches and even parking spaces for the different sectors. See the sectors for further information.

where to stay

There are many camping grounds nearby:

• Les 3 riviéres: 15 minutes to the parking space

1.3.5. Les Trois Rivières 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.233322, 5.142539

approach

There is a parking space at the northern part of the crag at the road (44.2370, 5.1472). From there follow the small path upwards to the cliff.

where to stay

The best place to stay is the camping ground les 3 rivieres. From there you can walk to the crag in 10 minutes.

1.3.6. La Combe Obscure 55 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.149429, 5.151590

approach

https://www.komoot.de/tour/496076076?ref=atd

1.3.7. Gorges de la Nesque 0 routes in Crag

access issues

Natura 2000

1.3.8. Venasque 563 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.986622, 5.169407

description

Little sector in two parts : overhang on the left and vertical on the right

approach

2 minutes. Between venasque and cornerette.

1.3.9. Pont Julien 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.862184, 5.314279

description

Limestone climbing on small boulders and crags. The site used to be climbed without ropes but later got equiped and became a nice spot for leisure climbing and learning how to climb.

access issues

Most of the area is access sensitive. The owner of the land only allows access to the Calavon city sector. The other easy sectors are forbidden.

1.3.10. Oppede-le-Vieux 48 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.825714, 5.164942

approach

Park in the big parking area outside (costs) the village. Walk through the village and a bit downhill. When road bends left take the path right into the wood. After some meters you turn left to small path steep uphill.

1.3.11. Oppède Brécugne 97 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.824717, 5.169671

summary

Nice routes in the 6th degree. South facing, offering a variety of rock types.

description

Sport climbing, with a lot of bolts which are new. Wear helmet is strongly recommended as it is new crag. Some rocks, due to their types, are fragile.

access issues

Forbidden to climb between May 15th to August 31st. Interdit de grimper entre le 15 Mai et le 31 Août.

approach

7 - 10 minutes walking time. Can be a bit steep.

history

Crag developed by CD 84

1.3.12. Supermarché 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.831023, 5.144411

1.3.13. Cavaillon 147 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.836353, 5.029409

1.3.14. Saint Anne-de-Goiron 0 routes in Crag

1.3.15. Rochers du Groseau 64 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.168323, 5.153611

1.3.16. Fétide Beach 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.856894, 5.274981

1.3.17. La Carrière du Maupas 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.186780, 5.184970

description

https://greenspits.com/topo/la-carriere-du-maupas/

1.3.18. Lourmarin 73 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.774636, 5.353296

1.3.19. Le Pan d'Avignon 0 routes in Gym

1.3.20. Bloc Session Avignon 0 routes in Gym

summary

https://www.blocsession.com/salle-escalade/avignon/

1.3.21. Les vires 8 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

summary

Face sud et sud/est.

description

De 6a à 9?

1.3.22. Villes-sur-Auzon 88 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.062438, 5.253563

approach

(44.063948, 5.251769)

1.3.23. Méthamis 36 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.022557, 5.239179

summary

Etalée sur une longueur de 150 m pour 25 à 30 m de hauteur la falaise des Devens se situe sur la commune de Méthamis, dans l'ensemble géologique des Gorges de la Nesque, classé Natura 2000 pour sa faune et sa flore exceptionnelles.

description

http://www.ventouxprovence.fr/reportages/activites-escalade/site-naturel-descalade-la-falaise-des-devens.html

access issues

Zone Natura 2000. Site interdit à l'escalade du 1er février au 31 juillet pour la tranquillité des oiseaux en période de nidification.

approach

(44.01784, 5.23068)

Se garer sous Méthamis à l’entrée des gorges de la Nesque. Emprunter le GR91 sur environ 1 km.

1.3.24. Basses gorges du Toulourenc 23 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.219962, 5.181235

1.4. Marseille area 7,453 routes in Region

12 21 11 10 5 14 9 13 18 27 17 28 8 7 2 25 3 22 19 20 26 6 16 23 15 1 24 4

1 Les Calanques 2 Massif du Garlaban 3 Massif de la Sainte-Baume 4 Massif Soubeyran 5 La Montagne Sainte-Victoire 6 Chaîne de Saint-Cyr 7 Chaîne de l'Estaque 8 Chaîne de l'étoile 9 Etang de Berre 10 Meyrargues 11 Rochers de la Consolation 12 Pont Mirabeau 13 Le Cengle 14 Les carrières de Bibémus 15 L'oppidum 16 Roquefort la Bédoule 17 Climb Up Aix - Bouc Bel Air 18 Climb Up Aix - Les Milles 19 Climb Up Marseille - La Valentine 20 Climb Up Aubagne 21 Bloc Session Pertuis 22 Bloc Session Marseille Centre 23 Bloc Session Marseille Sud 24 Bloc Session La Ciotat 25 Altissimo Marseille 26 Arkose Prado 27 Bloc n' roc 28 Block'Out Vitrolles

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.401814, 5.377463

description

Topo (sauf les Calanques et la Ciotat) : Escalades phocéennes, G. Bernard, G. Drouot, H. Guigliarelli, 2012. 435 pages. 26€. 38 sites

http://topo-calanques.com/

1.4.1. Les Calanques 3,215 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.215987, 5.438019

description

The Calanques, outside of Marseille, are considered by some a natural wonder. The beauty of the almost white limestone and the blue Mediterranean are definitely worth a visit and can be well combined with great rock climbing.

approach

For a detailed description on how to reach Les Calanques by fair means visit the Ecopoint Web-Site.

1.4.2. Massif du Garlaban 598 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.348871, 5.546324

summary

All the cliffs surrounding the Garlaban. In the heart of Provence, 100% limestone rock guarantee in the country of Marcel Pagnol.

Only single pitch sport climbing, up to the ninth degre.

description

Topo : Escalades phocéennes, G. Bernard, G. Drouot, H. Guigliarelli, 2012. 435 pages. 26€.

1.4.3. Massif de la Sainte-Baume 652 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 43.320406, 5.730042

description

Topo : Escalade Sainte-Baume, D. Gorgeon, Ph. Legier & P. Rainette, 2020. 176 pages. 20€.

1.4.4. Massif Soubeyran 730 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 43.190921, 5.577613

description

Topo : Escalade la Ciotat, G. Bernard, G. Drouot, H. Guigliarelli, 2012. 256 pages. 19€.

1.4.5. La Montagne Sainte-Victoire 375 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.532892, 5.611348

1.4.6. Chaîne de Saint-Cyr 420 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.261394, 5.486830

summary

Cliffs located east of Marseille, south of the Marseille-Aubagne axis. Most easily accessible with little walking.

description

Topo : Escalades phocéennes, G. Bernard, G. Drouot, H. Guigliarelli, 2012. 435 pages. 26€.

1.4.7. Chaîne de l'Estaque 829 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.361234, 5.161131

description

Topo : Escalades phocéennes, G. Bernard, G. Drouot, H. Guigliarelli, 2012. 435 pages. 26€.

1.4.8. Chaîne de l'étoile 271 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.391797, 5.466869

description

Topo : Escalades phocéennes, G. Bernard, G. Drouot, H. Guigliarelli, 2012. 435 pages. 26€.

1.4.9. Etang de Berre 231 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.534166, 5.119487

description

Topo : Escalades phocéennes, G. Bernard, G. Drouot, H. Guigliarelli, 2012. 435 pages. 26€.

1.4.10. Meyrargues 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.628602, 5.534193

1.4.11. Rochers de la Consolation 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.656178, 5.632825

1.4.12. Pont Mirabeau 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.691105, 5.658877

1.4.13. Le Cengle 10 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.507120, 5.557347

1.4.14. Les carrières de Bibémus 0 routes in Area

summary

Ancienne carrière d’extraction de blocs de pierres.

description

Site de bloc

access issues

Accès réglementé de juin a septembre par rapport au risque incendie. Vérifiez sur le site de la préfecture des Bouches-du-Rhône la veille de votre session.

approach

Prendre a droite, après la barrière DFCI. 2 minutes de marche, les blocs sont en contre-bas.

1.4.15. L'oppidum 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.226712, 5.615086

1.4.16. Roquefort la Bédoule 36 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.252567, 5.583913

1.4.17. Climb Up Aix - Bouc Bel Air 17 routes in Gym

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.430687, 5.399383

description

https://aix-boucbelair.climb-up.fr/

1.4.18. Climb Up Aix - Les Milles 0 routes in Gym

description

https://aix-lesmilles.climb-up.fr/

1.4.19. Climb Up Marseille - La Valentine 0 routes in Gym

description

https://marseille-lavalentine.climb-up.fr/

1.4.20. Climb Up Aubagne 0 routes in Gym

description

https://aubagne.climb-up.fr/

1.4.21. Bloc Session Pertuis 0 routes in Gym

summary

https://www.blocsession.com/salle-escalade/aix-pertuis/

1.4.22. Bloc Session Marseille Centre 0 routes in Gym

summary

https://www.blocsession.com/salle-escalade/marseille-centre/

1.4.23. Bloc Session Marseille Sud 0 routes in Gym

summary

https://www.blocsession.com/salle-escalade/marseille-sud/

1.4.24. Bloc Session La Ciotat 0 routes in Gym

summary

https://www.blocsession.com/salle-escalade/la-ciotat/

1.4.25. Altissimo Marseille 0 routes in Gym

description

https://marseille.altissimo.fr/

1.4.26. Arkose Prado 0 routes in Gym

1.4.27. Bloc n' roc 0 routes in Gym

1.4.28. Block'Out Vitrolles 0 routes in Gym

summary

Salle d'escalade de blocs ouverte en 2019.

1.5. Castellane - Les Gorges du Verdon 1,759 routes in Region

3 4 5 1 2 6

1 Les Gorges du Verdon 2 Esparron de Verdon 3 Cadières de Brandis 4 Chasteuil 5 Le Teillon 6 Quinson

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.812004, 6.227776

summary

Le parc naturel régional du Verdon s'étend sur 188 000 hectares dans les départements des Alpes-de-Haute-Provence et du Var. (source: wikipedia)

description

Le Verdon dispose de 933 voies d'escalade, dont la falaise verticale de l'escalès de 300 mètres, la plus haute gorge d'Europe. Les grimpeurs, les vautours et le paysage constituent donc un spectacle indissociable pour les touristes... (source: wikipedia)

1.5.1. Les Gorges du Verdon 1,567 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.806205, 6.317045

summary

Classic exposed sport climbing in a beautiful natural setting.

description

The deepest limestone canyon in France and often considered the most beautiful in Europe. It's about 25km long and 700m deep in some places, adding plenty of exposure to the more than 1,500 routes (from 5a to 9a+) that have made its reputation worldwide. The area is popular for its sustained multi-pitches, classic single pitches and for its natural beauty.

access issues

The gorges are the home of a few protected bird species. Some areas may be closed during nesting season.

approach

You will need a car to access most routes and areas. The closest town is La-Palud-Sur-Verdon where you'll find a climbing shop, accommodations and a camping site.

Routes are accessed either by abseiling or by walking. Approach time can vary between 5min and 2h.

where to stay

Camping is prohibited in the gorges. Note that the river is managed by EDF (french electricity provider) which operates the dam upstream. Don't stay near the river when water is being released as the level will change rapidly. There have been accidents in the past.

1.5.2. Esparron de Verdon 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 43.738407, 5.963359

summary

A tiny deep water solo area for rest days.

description

This is a great swimming spot to cool off in summer and has a few easy DWS lines with potential for more. Rock is not very solid so take care.

approach

Walk 30min from the village car park along the right bank. Set up a hammock and you're in business. Can also be reached by boat (rent one at the port).

1.5.3. Cadières de Brandis 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.847965, 6.446103

1.5.4. Chasteuil 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.835608, 6.415061

1.5.5. Le Teillon 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.833833, 6.572612

1.5.6. Quinson 136 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.697415, 6.040469

1.6. Nice - Monaco (Alpes Maritimes) 2,802 routes in Region

6 5 7 8 26 25 9 4 3 27 10 23 11 24 13 28 17 18 15 14 1 19 20 21

1 Nice Area 3 Vésubie et Valdeblore 4 La Brigue 5 Saint-Etienne-de-Tinée 6 Col de la Cayolle 7 Saint-Martin d'Entraunes 8 Valberg 9 Roubion 10 Col Saint Raphael 11 Aiglun 13 Saint Auban 14 Séranon 15 Castellaras 17 Gréolières 18 Saint Pons 19 Gourdon Area 20 Saint-Cézaire 21 Estérel (Alpes Maritimes) 23 La plage 24 Levens 25 Tende 26 Vievola 27 Pointe de Traya 28 Tourrette-Levens

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.855687, 7.176532

1.6.1. Nice Area 1,576 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.764847, 7.262728

1.6.2. Cougourde 0 routes in Area

1.6.3. Vésubie et Valdeblore 476 routes in Region

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.034542, 7.288694

description

Topo : La Verticalité en Vésubie-Valdeblore, FFME 06, 2017. 242 pages. 15€

1.6.4. La Brigue 74 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.064907, 7.602897

description

Limestone-

access issues

Park at the road.

approach

200m after leaving the village go left after the retirement home (Residence Retraite) on a marked path (red,white and yellow). Sector A 6 min approach time.

1.6.5. Saint-Etienne-de-Tinée 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.251237, 6.923811

1.6.6. Col de la Cayolle 0 routes in Field

description

http://voyageverticalmj.blogspot.com/2016/07/topo-des-blocs-de-la-cayolle-le-champ.html

1.6.7. Saint-Martin d'Entraunes 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.153636, 6.754826

1.6.8. Valberg 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.127465, 6.974789

1.6.9. Roubion 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.094643, 7.046802

description

https://www.roubion.com/wp-content/uploads/archives/Topo-viaferrata.pdf

1.6.10. Col Saint Raphael 0 routes in Crag

1.6.11. Aiglun 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.864660, 6.908973

summary

Nice climbing in a very scenic area looking down in the clear waters of Aiglun Gorge. Gets full sun and too hot to climb from May-August. On a sunny day it can be climbed in winter no problem.

description

Routes are bolted but you may wish to take a few nuts or cams just in case.

approach

Park in the parking bays as you leave Aiglun. Then the path starts around the back of the public commune pavilion and works its way along to the rock. At one point the path splits. The lower path goes to the gorge, the upper to the climbing.

Most routes are at the far end of the cliff. See photo.

1.6.12. Col du Buis 0 routes in Crag

1.6.13. Saint Auban 35 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.849764, 6.729493

summary

A cave like cliff with - surprisingly - routes in all grades.

approach

From D2211 turn east onto Chemin du Bausset. Take first sharp left turn. There is a tree on the right with a "Site d'escalade" sign nailed to it. There is a small gravel parking area for about 3 cars on the right just past this tree. Beside the parking area is a narrow roadway. Walk up this road to a trail leading to the crag.

Parking area at (43.848354, 6.731808).

1.6.14. Séranon 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.756895, 6.736018

1.6.15. Castellaras 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.779914, 6.835868

access issues

South face is banned for climbing.

1.6.16. Les Baumouns 0 routes in Crag

1.6.17. Gréolières 50 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.809054, 6.958363

1.6.18. Saint Pons 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.792903, 6.988430

1.6.19. Gourdon Area 200 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.723657, 6.983765

1.6.20. Saint-Cézaire 127 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.692847, 6.783742

1.6.21. Estérel (Alpes Maritimes) 19 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.504238, 6.916487

description

Le massif est majoritairement composé de roches porphyriques (volcaniques), notamment de rhyolite qui lui donnent sa coloration rougeâtre (avec des veines ponctuelles d'esterellite bleue). (source: wikipedia)

1.6.22. L'arche 14 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.6.23. La plage 28 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.897005, 7.190389

1.6.24. Levens 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.861325, 7.219201

description

https://levens.fr/tout-savoir-sur-la-commune-de-levens-levenstourisme/activites/site-descalade/

1.6.25. Tende 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.102304, 7.589405

description

Limestone slithly overhanging.

access issues

Park at the road after the bridge over the river. Approach time from the parking lot is about 15 to 20 min.

1.6.26. Vievola 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 44.114234, 7.551986

1.6.27. Pointe de Traya 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.029178, 7.564190

1.6.28. Tourrette-Levens 37 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.812977, 7.272384

summary

A very classy limestone crag with great routes in the 6s, 7s and 8s

approach

Approach is a small path leading up to the left of the main road. 5 mins hike up

1.7. Toulon (Var) 2,422 routes in Region

16 10 3 15 7 8 14 6 4 13 5 2 9 11 1 17 12

1 Cride - Sanary 2 Gros Cerveau 3 Cimaï 4 Gorges du Destel 5 Gorges d'Ollioules 6 Le Baou des 4 Ouros 7 Tourris 8 Le Coudon 9 Mont Faron 10 Ragas 11 Fenouillet 12 La Piade 13 Croupatier 14 Barre de La Jaume 15 La Touravelle 16 La roche Redonne 17 Bloc Session Toulon

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.175698, 5.954229

1.7.1. Cride - Sanary 0 routes in Crag

1.7.2. Gros Cerveau 95 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.156524, 5.811725

1.7.3. Cimaï 290 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.177811, 5.845935

summary

Another piece of sport climbing history. Pay your respect!

description

An impeccable limestone cliff. The two main styles here are cracks (be prepared for a fight) and technical face or overhanging climbs. Most routes are in the 6s and 7s, up to 8b+.

It is less popular today but offers incredible, technical, hard to read, sustained routes.

The cliff is in the sun year round, so come here in winter or wake up early in summer.

approach

Take the Route d'Evenos D462. The car park is a short walk from the crag.

history

In the 1980s, Le Cimai was a proving ground: all the best sport climbers were coming here to climb extreme routes: first 7c+ onsight (Antoine Le Menestrel - 1987), first 8a onsight (Antoine Le Mesnestrel again), first female 8b (Isabelle Patissier - 1988), first female 8b+ (Lynn Hill - 1990).

1.7.4. Gorges du Destel 266 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.158187, 5.851337

1.7.5. Gorges d'Ollioules 111 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.157444, 5.840389

1.7.6. Le Baou des 4 Ouros 421 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.161411, 5.887775

1.7.7. Tourris 80 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.167021, 5.964633

1.7.8. Le Coudon 283 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.161579, 6.000621

1.7.9. Mont Faron 423 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.145514, 5.940196

1.7.10. Ragas 100 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.179537, 5.935281

1.7.11. Fenouillet 55 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.137111, 6.099331

1.7.12. La Piade 49 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 43.104581, 5.992648

summary

A very fun and worthwhile deep water soloing area from 5+ to 7c+. Toulon's best kept secret?

description

Locals have been coming to this area for decades. In La Vie au Bout des Doigts (1982), Patrick Edlinger is seen doing la Grande traversée, a 600m traverse that is mostly safe a and a great summer outing.

approach

Approach is a 5-10min easy walk. Park on Avenue du commandant Houot and take Chemin de l'Anse San Peyre down to l'Anse San Peyre. At the little port, keep right, go between the little houses and you'll find a slab facing the ocean. On the right side is the start of the traverse that will take you to the main cave. From the slab, downclimb (not safe) and traverse or swim to the cave.

history

Patrick Edlinger would come here to practice when he was young.

1.7.13. Croupatier 49 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.158117, 5.865685

1.7.14. Barre de La Jaume 101 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.162552, 5.815460

1.7.15. La Touravelle 75 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.170374, 5.949144

1.7.16. La roche Redonne 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.243009, 5.737145

description

Équip : 2007 Hauteur : 18m

1.7.17. Bloc Session Toulon 0 routes in Gym

summary

https://www.blocsession.com/salle-escalade/toulon-la-seyne-sur-mer/

1.8. Estérel (Var) 691 routes in Region

11 12 10 3 13 7 2 9 6 8 4 1

1 Cap Dramont 2 Pic du Perthus 3 Gorges du Blavet 4 Rocher de Saint Barthélémy 6 Contrefort du Pilon 7 Roussiveau 8 Rocher de Théole 9 Roquebrune-sur-Argens 10 La Capelle 11 Colle Rousse 12 Bayonne 13 La Lieutenante

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.509042, 6.738985

description

Le massif est majoritairement composé de roches porphyriques (volcaniques), notamment de rhyolite qui lui donnent sa coloration rougeâtre (avec des veines ponctuelles d'esterellite bleue). (source: wikipedia)

1.8.1. Cap Dramont 58 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.413468, 6.852643

access issues

Its a statepark area. No vehicles allowed on the tracks. Keep on the tracks.

approach

D559 Saint-Raphael to Agay, get right at the circle to Port du Poussai. Walk 50m left of the Port. Follow the steps into the forest. Follow the track and turn right on the ashaltroad. The sectors are left and right of this track in 3 to 10 min walkdistances.

where to stay

2 campsites in 20 min walkdistance.

1.8.2. Pic du Perthus 20 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.471811, 6.853205

1.8.3. Gorges du Blavet 403 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.516957, 6.654936

1.8.4. Rocher de Saint Barthélémy 8 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.447041, 6.903397

summary

Vingtaine de voies, du 4c au 6b. Grandes voies.

1.8.5. Pic du Cap Roux 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.8.6. Contrefort du Pilon 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.451199, 6.901708

1.8.7. Roussiveau 60 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.474164, 6.845879

1.8.8. Rocher de Théole 0 routes in Area

summary

Vingtaine de voies sportives faciles.

1.8.9. Roquebrune-sur-Argens 1 route in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.452290, 6.601252

1.8.10. La Capelle 51 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.518483, 6.644593

1.8.11. Colle Rousse 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.524436, 6.646448

1.8.12. Bayonne 37 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.522349, 6.659555

1.8.13. La Lieutenante 22 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.503482, 6.701953

1.9. Gorges de Châteaudouble (Var) 76 routes in Crag

3

3 Baou des Prannes

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.588128, 6.427837

description

Topo : Châteaudouble, Escalade en Dracénie, Philippe Bugada, 2004. 162 pages. 21€

1.9.1. Les Marinouns 48 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.9.2. Roches de Malines 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.9.3. Baou des Prannes 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.589442, 6.416110

1.10. Provence verte (Var) 317 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.456113, 6.252393

1.10.1. Falaises de Brauch 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.451367, 6.191475

description

Trois petites dalles calcaires au-dessus du lac de Carcès.

Topo : Grimper en Provence Verte, FFME 13, 2018. 128 pages. 20€

approach

You can park on the side of the street leading up the mountain, there is a sign pointing towards the crag. Follow the sign and the stairs through the woods for 5 minutes, then you arrive at the sector Dalles Bleues.

1.10.2. Chateauvert 251 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.495561, 6.049129

summary

Great sport climbing area with hundreds of routes and easy access.

description

A lovely set of buttresses tucked away in a sheltered, wooded valley with a tranquil river running through it and some great climbing, only minutes from the road.

The rock is a coarse textured and heavily pocketed limestone, and climbing on it is a real pleasure though hands can suffer from a prolonged visit here. The routes are well bolted almost without exception, and there is a huge range of climbs to choose from. Many of the pitches are very long, bring plenty of quick-draws and take note of the length of the route versus the length of your rope!

Much of the crag faces pretty much south, it is recessed and well sheltered, especially from northerlies. The crag is an ideal winter venue and is always popular especially at weekends. It can get very hot here at almost any time of the year, though the crags at the far eastern end of the valley and much of the Grande Face are tipped a bit to the east and go into the shade earlier than the rest of the cliff.

The Topo Grimper en Provence Verte (see guidebooks) can also be acquired at the grocery store in Correns.

Kid friendliness: The Grand Face is not suitable for small children as the base consists of sloping and slippery rock. Some of the other sectors (especially those next to the road) have a flat base where you can even access them with a pram.

approach

Park here (43.4968, 6.0393) or here (43.4967, 6.0553) From there it‘s only a short walk to the sectors.

history

The area was discovered in the 1960s and the first routes set by Jean Fabre in 1969 (Golot Fou). In the 1980s, Jean-Marc Roman et Thierry Oudin open more routes between 6c and 8b+ (Les Frontieres du Neant, Are you ready, Les Couleurs du Charme, Les elements ne font pas de cadeau, Power...). The cliff was closed from 1990 to 1994 but was reopened to the public and re-equipped to modern standards thanks to the FFME.

1.10.3. La Roquette 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.485453, 6.081387

summary

Small crag with rather short and easy routes. Very well equiped. Suitable for children. Next to a playground.

approach

Park outside the gates and walk towards the playground. The crag is on the right hand side.

1.10.4. Grand Peyloubier, Vidauban 28 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.414430, 6.459555

summary

Site de bloc du Grand Peyloubier à Vidauban

description

topo: https://climbingaway.fr/en/climbing-areas/vidauban

1.11. Digne-les-Bains (Alpes-de-Haute-Provence) 2,531 routes in Region

18 14 15 13 16 17 10 9 11 5 4 3 6 1 12 2 7 8

1 Annot 2 Volx 3 Chateau-Arnoux 4 Courbons 5 Le Vallon de Farine 6 Chabrieres 7 Courchon 8 La Baume Blanche 9 Blégiers 10 Sisteron 11 Valbelle 12 Refour 13 Vallée de l'Ubaye 14 Aiguille Large de Mary 15 Gendarme de Saint-Ours 16 Saint Geniez 17 Gache 18 Tête de Sanglier

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 44.181532, 6.217924

description

Les Alpes-de-Haute-Provence ou AHP, appelées Basses-Alpes jusqu'en 1970, sont un département français de la région Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur. L'Insee et la Poste lui attribuent le code 04. Sa préfecture est Digne-les-Bains. (Source wikipedia)

1.11.1. Annot 1,856 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.993989, 6.676333

summary

Annot has earned the reputation as the next big bouldering destination after Fontainebleau in France, if not one of the top locations in Europe.

description

With its numerous sandstone problems, moderate climate, and easy access it’s easy to see why the area is getting so much attention. Whether you’re looking for a place to see if your winter training paid off, or just passing by on the way to another climbing destination, this burgeoning area definitely is worth a visit.

Please refer to http://abloc.org/ for details, seasonal closures and additional information.

access issues

Do not use any kind of metallic brushes on the boulders.

approach

All of Annot’s boulders are located on the mountain of Argenton, which is approx. 2km north of town in the direction of Fugeret. A small unpaved road leads up to the mountain.

The Road is in a bad Condition (05.2019) Hike between 10min and 3h

where to stay

Camping www.la-ribiere.com Free Motorhome Area in Annot (from the main square over the Bridge and a little bit uphill).

1.11.2. Volx 182 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.881719, 5.836317

summary

Cave with overhanging routes. Not world-class (anymore) but worth a go. Plenty of easy routes too.

description

Please consider buying the guidebook "Topo d'escalade Bléone - Durance at the library in Volx (24€), 2016"

Volx is an historic destination for sport climbing. In the eighties, the main cave was a training gym for all the strong French climbers and was an international venue for extreme (at the time) sport climbing grades. The area is seeing less visitors these days but is still worth a visit, especially on rainy days since it's so well sheltered.

Some routes may require a stick clip.

access issues

No climbing over Christmas as the cave is used by the town for festivities.

approach

(43.881724, 5.839123) Rue Pierre et Marie Curie

The crag is visible from the village, it's all the way up!

If driving an RV, avoid coming from the town center as you will be stuck in Rue des Remparts.

From the car park walk 5min up La Montée de la Cappellane to reach the main cave. Follow the track left (Plus Belle La Vie) or right (all other) to access the other sectors.

• For 'Plus Belle La Vie', 'La Grotte' et 'La Petite Grotte': Walk all the way up La Montée de la Cappellane (5min from car park).

• For 'Botanique', 'Laurie', 'Petit Buoux' and 'Le Bloc', take the track at the small electric house. (4min from car park)

• For all other sectors, turn right at the first sign 'Site d'escalade' and follow the obvious track.

where to stay

Stay in Volx or Manosque which has many different types of accommodations and is a quick 10min ride by car.

There's a B&B located 2min away from the crag: B&B L'escalade en Luberon

ethic

Pick up your trash and your dog's poo. Be nice with residents. Avoid bird nestings.

history

In 1989 Ben Moon freed the 5th 8c in the world here, calling it the Maginot Line in reference to a French military disaster. The French locals had been trying (and were close) to send the route when Ben snatched the FA. The route was later renamed Le Plafond (the roof).

In 2014 Adam Ondra onsighted Le Super Plafond 8c+ (placing all the quickdraws), an extension of Le Plafond going into Terminator and opened by JB Tribout in 1994.

1.11.3. Chateau-Arnoux 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.087426, 5.999457

description

Topo : Topo d'escalade Bléone Durance, FFME 04, 2016. 250 pages. 24€

1.11.4. Courbons 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.100598, 6.217622

description

Topo : Topo d'escalade Bléone Durance, FFME 04, 2016. 250 pages. 24€

1.11.5. Le Vallon de Farine 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.108290, 6.238080

description

http://caf.hauteprovence.pagesperso-orange.fr/les_arches.htm

1.11.6. Chabrieres 66 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.009948, 6.267581

description

Topo : Topo d'escalade Bléone Durance, FFME 04, 2016. 250 pages. 24€

1.11.7. Courchon 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 43.837081, 6.234096

1.11.8. La Baume Blanche 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.827729, 6.237979

1.11.9. Blégiers 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.182964, 6.422214

description

Topo : Topo d'escalade Bléone Durance, FFME 04, 2016. 250 pages. 24€

1.11.10. Sisteron 96 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 44.199373, 5.960507

summary

Beautiful, compact, slabby crag, with very good approach

description

Topo : Topo d'escalade Bléone Durance, FFME 04, 2016. 250 pages. 24€

Sisteron is compact slabby crag consisting of a large but narrow fin of rock, with sunny routes on one side and shady steep routes on other

access issues

Sisteron can be easily accessed from A51 by exiting at junction 22 or 23

approach

The crag is very visible from the town Sisteron - just behind the bridge over the river. Parking is almost below the crag along the road with small parking lots

1.11.11. Valbelle 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.131602, 5.879253

description

Topo : Topo d'escalade Bléone Durance, FFME 04, 2016. 250 pages. 24€

1.11.12. Refour 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.937198, 5.590370

1.11.13. Vallée de l'Ubaye 116 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.429493, 6.449466

1.11.14. Aiguille Large de Mary 0 routes in Crag

1.11.15. Gendarme de Saint-Ours 0 routes in Crag

1.11.16. Saint Geniez 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.247687, 6.052032

1.11.17. Gache 112 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.232732, 6.009178

1.11.18. Tête de Sanglier 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.577408, 6.809472