East Face Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

David O'Donnell zac Josh laidlaw Jason Vanessa Wills Campbell Gome Bernii John Pitcairn Jordan R Alistair Hammond

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. East Face 8 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. East Face 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Seasonality

Trad climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: -45.070992, 168.811843

description

A face that provides gentle slabbery and good pro. The north-easterly aspect makes it a great location for sunny days.

approach

1h 30min

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ South East Gully Standard descent route off Single Cone. Due to it's aspect it is not uncommon to find snow in the gully, even in Summer. Bolted belays. There is now an easy scramble down on the ledges ~12m climber's right of the gully that leads to DBA that allows for a single 30m rappel to the bottom of the gully. Useful in shoulder seasons if crossing the iced/snow gully to get to other rap stations is difficult.	1	Alpine 70m
2	★★ Alpha A corner left of the gentle slab marks the beginning. This corner trends left and you will have to overcome steeper ground before it eases off. Easy scramble to summit rocks. FA: Dave McLeod	12	Trad 200m
3	★ Beta 5m right of Alpha. First belay is to the right marked by DBA.Next move through the obviosus roof crack. Route finishes up a featured face. FA: Dave McLeod	12	Trad 200m
4	★ Kat & Piglet Go AWOL Up slab to DBA. The second pitch begins by climbing a corner and a big flake, where a belay is advised. The third pitch is crux: up the tricky slab, then clip one bolt and climb the roof (3 bolts, 23 or A1/13). Belay after you pull the lip. Run out the next 50m to DBA. FA: Dave McLeod	13	Trad 200m
5	★ Delta Up the grey slab on the far right of the face underneath a crack system. Easy up a crack to a small belay ledge. Traverse left to bolts and to the summit. FA: Dave McLeod	15	Trad 200m
6	★ Epsilon Climb the black corner system to the right of the slab. Up and left to reach the NE Arete and to the summit. FA: Dave McLeod	14	Trad 150m
7	Crustys Route This route is 5m right of Epsilon climbing paralley until joining the North East Arete. FA: Julian White	12	Trad 200m
8	★★ North East Arete Awesome scramble to the summit. Consider a light rack and a 60m rope.	2	Alpine 250m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
1	★★	South East Gully	Alpine 70m
2	★★	North East Arete	Alpine 250m
12	★★	Alpha	Trad 200m
	★	Beta	Trad 200m
		Crustys Route	Trad 200m
13	★	Kat & Piglet Go AWOL	Trad 200m
14	★	Epsilon	Trad 150m
15	★	Delta	Trad 200m