A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Jay David O'Donnell zac Josh laidlaw Campbell Gome Jason John Pitcairn Justin Wimmer Nick Murphy Vanessa Wills
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Single Cone
39 in Crag
- 1.1. East Face 8 in Cliff
- 1.2. North East Buttress 9 in Cliff
- 1.3. South Face 20 in Cliff
- 1.4. West Face 2 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Single Cone 39 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Ice climbing and Alpine climbing
Lat / Long: -45.071933, 168.810535
1.1. East Face 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Alpine climbing
Lat / Long: -45.070992, 168.811843
description
A face that provides gentle slabbery and good pro. The north-easterly aspect makes it a great location for sunny days.
approach
1h 30min
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ South East Gully
Standard descent route off Single Cone. Due to it's aspect it is not uncommon to find snow in the gully, even in Summer. Bolted belays. There is now an easy scramble down on the ledges ~12m climber's right of the gully that leads to DBA that allows for a single 30m rappel to the bottom of the gully. Useful in shoulder seasons if crossing the iced/snow gully to get to other rap stations is difficult. | 1 | 70m | |||
2 |
★★ Alpha
A corner left of the gentle slab marks the beginning. This corner trends left and you will have to overcome steeper ground before it eases off. Easy scramble to summit rocks. FA: Dave McLeod | 12 | 200m | |||
3 |
★ Beta
5m right of Alpha. First belay is to the right marked by DBA.Next move through the obviosus roof crack. Route finishes up a featured face. FA: Dave McLeod | 12 | 200m | |||
4 |
★ Kat & Piglet Go AWOL
Up slab to DBA. The second pitch begins by climbing a corner and a big flake, where a belay is advised. The third pitch is crux: up the tricky slab, then clip one bolt and climb the roof (3 bolts, 23 or A1/13). Belay after you pull the lip. Run out the next 50m to DBA. FA: Dave McLeod | 13 | 200m | |||
5 |
★ Delta
Up the grey slab on the far right of the face underneath a crack system. Easy up a crack to a small belay ledge. Traverse left to bolts and to the summit. FA: Dave McLeod | 15 | 200m | |||
6 |
★ Epsilon
Climb the black corner system to the right of the slab. Up and left to reach the NE Arete and to the summit. FA: Dave McLeod | 14 | 150m | |||
7 |
Crustys Route
This route is 5m right of Epsilon climbing paralley until joining the North East Arete. FA: Julian White | 12 | 200m | |||
8 |
★★ North East Arete
Awesome scramble to the summit. Consider a light rack and a 60m rope. | 2 | 250m |
1.2. North East Buttress 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -45.068642, 168.809631
description
The obvious buttress of Single Cone when looking South-West from Lake Alta.
approach
1h
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Doganator
Short, limited pro, good rock (10m). Obvious crack to small ledge. Climb headwall to a belay on large ledge (45m). Short pitch to the walk off (12m). FA: Dave Bolger & Glen Aspin, 2014 | 16 | 67m, 3 | |||||
2 |
Cavity Search
Right of blank face. Weakness to belay ledge (55m). Climb blocky ground above belay (10m). | 13 | 65m, 2 | |||||
3 |
Hard Act to Follow
Right of Cavity Search, steeper ground (55m). Same second pitch of Cavity Search (10m). FA: Dave McLeod & Dave Bergman, 2002 | 16 | 16m, 2 | |||||
4 |
Neals Hees
Climb easy terrain to the right of Hard Act to Follow (50m). Cruisy second pitch (15m). | 12 | 65m, 2 | |||||
5 | Mister Manners | 60m, 20 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★★ The Guides Route
10m right of Liposuction. Crack systems (45m). Nice pitch, steeper ground (15m). FA: John Entwhistle, Dave McLeod & Dave Robinson | 17 | 60m, 2 | |||||
7 |
★★ Liposuction
Climb the right-hand side of the butress in the centre of the face. Two pegs on a ledge to belay (55m). Climb steeper ground off belay via a crack, to the next ledge (15m). FA: Katrin Benecke & Shane Miller | 17 | 70m, 2 | |||||
8 |
The Embalmist
Gently angled slab on right hand side of face (45m). Follow right side of buttress through slabs to a gully of shingle (40m). Climb left to a steeper part, then a slab. Stay right on the slab, join the ridge. (40m). FA: Tarn Pilkington et al | 14 | 130m, 3 | |||||
9 |
★ Maxi Rider
Great pro. Steep overlap. Great rock. FA: Dave Bolger & Chris Prudden, 2004 | 16 | 20m |
1.3. South Face 20 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Ice climbing and Alpine climbing
Lat / Long: -45.073959, 168.810949
description
Accessed either via Wye Saddle or the long way via Queens Drive.
approach
2h
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
$100 Whore
FA: aniel Joll, Rupert Gardiner & Kevin Barrett, 2011 | M5 | 9 | |||||
2 |
$50 F#ck
FA: Steve Skelten & Vaughan Snowden, 2013 | M5 | 350m, 3 | |||||
3 |
Alejandro El Bicho Le Gusta Sexo Duro
FA: Alex Corpas, Ben Dare & Daniel Joll, 2012 | M5 | 350m, 8 | |||||
4 |
Only for Muppets
FA: Dave Bolger & Rupert Gardiner, 2006 | WI3 | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
5 |
SE Rib of Single Cone
Obvious rib between South and South West face. Steep for four of the seven. FA: Ben Dare, Danny Murphy & Anna Ruotsi, 2011 | 17 | 7 | |||||
6 |
★ Cookies & Cream
The left most snow gully. FA: Guy Cotter & Suze Kelly | UIAA:2 M2 | 300m | |||||
7 |
★★★ Touch Down
Pretty great pitch of ice! Lot's of beginners do it as a top rope, and it can be busy. Has a DBA at the top, so you can rap down with 2 60m ropes. FA: Katrina Benecke & Ansja de Boer, 1996 | WI3 | 60m | |||||
8 |
★ Touch Down Slabs
The ramps just to the right of Touch Down. Shares an anchor with Touch Down | WI3 | 50m | |||||
9 |
★★★ South Face Classic
From the top of Touch Down follow the obvious snow ramp to the left until you get to big snow ledge. Wander right and then straight up to the top. Apparently most of the route was soloed on the first ascent. WI3 is only really for the Touch Down slabs. The rest of the climb is mostly steep snow, maybe an Alpine 2. A great day out with some cool exposure looking down at Wye Creek. FA: Steve Carr & Derek Chinn, 2001 | WI3 | 300m, 5 | |||||
10 |
Rock Vandals
Accessed using rappel stations on the face. | 15 | 3 | |||||
11 |
Littlewood Route
Climbers left of rappel line. FA: Steve Barratt & Jade Littlewood, 2011 | 18 | 5 | |||||
12 |
Barrett’s Route
FA: 2012 | 18 | 4 | |||||
13 |
Got No Shoes
Climbers right of the rappel line. FA: Daniel Joll & Danny Murphy, 2011 | 17 | 5 | |||||
14 |
Finnigan Dare
FA: Ben Dare & Andrew Finnigan, 2011 | 18 | 7 | |||||
15 |
Big Chimney
Ascend right-leaning chimney. DBA at the top. | 15 | 4 | |||||
16 |
Uncle Al's Retro Rock / l
FA: Daneil Joll & Paul Angus, 2011 | 18 | 4 | |||||
17 |
Uncle Al’s Retro Rack
FA: Ben Dare, 2012 | 17 | 4 | |||||
18 |
Blame the Rabbit
FA: Ben Dare, 2012 | 18 | ||||||
19 |
Big Bouncing Boulders
FA: Danny Murphy & Ben Dare, 2012 | 17 | ||||||
20 |
★ Easy Skanking
FA: Dave Bolger & Rupert Gardiner., 2006 | 18 | 170m, 4 |
1.4. West Face 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Ice climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Fire In The Sky
FA: Ben Dare (solo), 2010 | {US} M6 | 250m | |||
2 |
★★★ Stairway to Methven
FA: Ben Dare & Steve Leake, 2010 | {US} M5 | 250m |