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Single Cone Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Jay David O'Donnell zac Josh laidlaw Campbell Gome Jason Nick Murphy

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Single Cone 39 routes in Crag

Summary:
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Seasonality

Trad climbing, Ice climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: -45.071933, 168.810535

1.1. East Face 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: -45.070992, 168.811843

description

A face that provides gentle slabbery and good pro. The north-easterly aspect makes it a great location for sunny days.

approach

1h 30min

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 South East Gully

Standard descent route off Single Cone. Due to it's aspect it is not uncommon to find snow in the gully, even in Summer. Bolted belays.

There is now an easy scramble down on the ledges ~12m climber's right of the gully that leads to DBA that allows for a single 30m rappel to the bottom of the gully. Useful in shoulder seasons if crossing the iced/snow gully to get to other rap stations is difficult.

1 Alpine 70m
2 Alpha

A corner left of the gentle slab marks the beginning. This corner trends left and you will have to overcome steeper ground before it eases off. Easy scramble to summit rocks.

FA: Dave McLeod

12 Trad 200m
3 Beta

5m right of Alpha. First belay is to the right marked by DBA.Next move through the obviosus roof crack. Route finishes up a featured face.

FA: Dave McLeod

12 Trad 200m
4 Kat & Piglet Go AWOL

Up slab to DBA. The second pitch begins by climbing a corner and a big flake, where a belay is advised. The third pitch is crux: up the tricky slab, then clip one bolt and climb the roof (3 bolts, 23 or A1/13). Belay after you pull the lip. Run out the next 50m to DBA.

FA: Dave McLeod

13 Trad 200m
5 Delta

Up the grey slab on the far right of the face underneath a crack system. Easy up a crack to a small belay ledge. Traverse left to bolts and to the summit.

FA: Dave McLeod

15 Trad 200m
6 Epsilon

Climb the black corner system to the right of the slab. Up and left to reach the NE Arete and to the summit.

FA: Dave McLeod

14 Trad 150m
7 Crustys Route

This route is 5m right of Epsilon climbing paralley until joining the North East Arete.

FA: Julian White

12 Trad 200m
8 North East Arete

Awesome scramble to the summit. Consider a light rack and a 60m rope.

2 Alpine 250m

1.2. North East Buttress 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -45.068642, 168.809631

description

The obvious buttress of Single Cone when looking South-West from Lake Alta.

approach

1h

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Doganator

Short, limited pro, good rock (10m). Obvious crack to small ledge. Climb headwall to a belay on large ledge (45m). Short pitch to the walk off (12m).

FA: Dave Bolger & Glen Aspin, 2014

16 Trad 67m, 3
2 Cavity Search

Right of blank face. Weakness to belay ledge (55m). Climb blocky ground above belay (10m).

13 Trad 65m, 2
3 Hard Act to Follow

Right of Cavity Search, steeper ground (55m). Same second pitch of Cavity Search (10m).

FA: Dave McLeod & Dave Bergman, 2002

16 Trad 16m, 2
4 Neals Hees

Climb easy terrain to the right of Hard Act to Follow (50m). Cruisy second pitch (15m).

12 Trad 65m, 2
5 Mister Manners Trad 60m, 20
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 The Guides Route

10m right of Liposuction. Crack systems (45m). Nice pitch, steeper ground (15m).

FA: John Entwhistle, Dave McLeod & Dave Robinson

17 Trad 60m, 2
7 Liposuction

Climb the right-hand side of the butress in the centre of the face. Two pegs on a ledge to belay (55m). Climb steeper ground off belay via a crack, to the next ledge (15m).

FA: Katrin Benecke & Shane Miller

17 Trad 70m, 2
8 The Embalmist

Gently angled slab on right hand side of face (45m). Follow right side of buttress through slabs to a gully of shingle (40m). Climb left to a steeper part, then a slab. Stay right on the slab, join the ridge. (40m).

FA: Tarn Pilkington et al

14 Trad 130m, 3
9 Maxi Rider

Great pro. Steep overlap. Great rock.

FA: Dave Bolger & Chris Prudden, 2004

16 Trad 20m

1.3. South Face 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing, Ice climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: -45.073959, 168.810949

description

Accessed either via Wye Saddle or the long way via Queens Drive.

approach

2h

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 $100 Whore

FA: aniel Joll, Rupert Gardiner & Kevin Barrett, 2011

M5 Ice 9
2 $50 F#ck

FA: Steve Skelten & Vaughan Snowden, 2013

M5 Ice 350m, 3
3 Alejandro El Bicho Le Gusta Sexo Duro

FA: Alex Corpas, Ben Dare & Daniel Joll, 2012

M5 Ice 350m, 8
4 Only for Muppets

FA: Dave Bolger & Rupert Gardiner, 2006

WI3 Ice 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 SE Rib of Single Cone

Obvious rib between South and South West face. Steep for four of the seven.

FA: Ben Dare, Danny Murphy & Anna Ruotsi, 2011

17 Trad 7
6 Cookies & Cream

The left most snow gully.

FA: Guy Cotter & Suze Kelly

UIAA:2 M2 Alpine 300m
7 Touch Down

Pretty great pitch of ice! Lot's of beginners do it as a top rope, and it can be busy.

Has a DBA at the top, so you can rap down with 2 60m ropes.

FA: Katrina Benecke & Ansja de Boer, 1996

WI3 Ice 60m
8 Touch Down Slabs

The ramps just to the right of Touch Down. Shares an anchor with Touch Down

WI3 Ice 50m
9 South Face Classic

From the top of Touch Down follow the obvious snow ramp to the left until you get to big snow ledge. Wander right and then straight up to the top. Apparently most of the route was soloed on the first ascent.

WI3 is only really for the Touch Down slabs. The rest of the climb is mostly steep snow, maybe an Alpine 2.

A great day out with some cool exposure looking down at Wye Creek.

FA: Steve Carr & Derek Chinn, 2001

WI3 Ice 300m, 5
10 Rock Vandals

Accessed using rappel stations on the face.

15 TradProject 3
11 Littlewood Route

Climbers left of rappel line.

FA: Steve Barratt & Jade Littlewood, 2011

18 Trad 5
12 Barrett’s Route

FA: 2012

18 Trad 4
13 Got No Shoes

Climbers right of the rappel line.

FA: Daniel Joll & Danny Murphy, 2011

17 Trad 5
14 Finnigan Dare

FA: Ben Dare & Andrew Finnigan, 2011

18 Trad 7
15 Big Chimney

Ascend right-leaning chimney. DBA at the top.

15 TradProject 4
16 Uncle Al's Retro Rock / l

FA: Daneil Joll & Paul Angus, 2011

18 TradProject 4
17 Uncle Al’s Retro Rack

FA: Ben Dare, 2012

17 Trad 4
18 Blame the Rabbit

FA: Ben Dare, 2012

18 Trad
19 Big Bouncing Boulders

FA: Danny Murphy & Ben Dare, 2012

17 Trad
20 Easy Skanking

FA: Dave Bolger & Rupert Gardiner., 2006

18 Trad 170m, 4

1.4. West Face 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Ice climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fire In The Sky

FA: Ben Dare (solo), 2010

{US} M6 Ice 250m
2 Stairway to Methven

FA: Ben Dare & Steve Leake, 2010

{US} M5 Ice 250m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
1 South East Gully Alpine 70m 1.1. East Face
2 North East Arete Alpine 250m 1.1. East Face
2 M2 Cookies & Cream Alpine 300m 1.3. South Face
12 Alpha Trad 200m 1.1. East Face
Beta Trad 200m 1.1. East Face
Crustys Route Trad 200m 1.1. East Face
Neals Hees Trad 65m, 2 1.2. North East Buttress
13 Kat & Piglet Go AWOL Trad 200m 1.1. East Face
Cavity Search Trad 65m, 2 1.2. North East Buttress
WI3 Only for Muppets Ice 20m 1.3. South Face
South Face Classic Ice 300m, 5 1.3. South Face
Touch Down Ice 60m 1.3. South Face
Touch Down Slabs Ice 50m 1.3. South Face
14 Epsilon Trad 150m 1.1. East Face
The Embalmist Trad 130m, 3 1.2. North East Buttress
15 Delta Trad 200m 1.1. East Face
Big Chimney TradProject 4 1.3. South Face
Rock Vandals TradProject 3 1.3. South Face
16 Doganator Trad 67m, 3 1.2. North East Buttress
Hard Act to Follow Trad 16m, 2 1.2. North East Buttress
Maxi Rider Trad 20m 1.2. North East Buttress
17 Liposuction Trad 70m, 2 1.2. North East Buttress
The Guides Route Trad 60m, 2 1.2. North East Buttress
Big Bouncing Boulders Trad 1.3. South Face
Got No Shoes Trad 5 1.3. South Face
SE Rib of Single Cone Trad 7 1.3. South Face
Uncle Al’s Retro Rack Trad 4 1.3. South Face
M5 $100 Whore Ice 9 1.3. South Face
$50 F#ck Ice 350m, 3 1.3. South Face
Alejandro El Bicho Le Gusta Sexo Duro Ice 350m, 8 1.3. South Face
Stairway to Methven Ice 250m 1.4. West Face
18 Barrett’s Route Trad 4 1.3. South Face
Blame the Rabbit Trad 1.3. South Face
Easy Skanking Trad 170m, 4 1.3. South Face
Finnigan Dare Trad 7 1.3. South Face
Littlewood Route Trad 5 1.3. South Face
Uncle Al's Retro Rock TradProject 4 1.3. South Face
M6 Fire In The Sky Ice 250m 1.4. West Face
? Mister Manners Trad 60m, 20 1.2. North East Buttress
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