Routes in Midlands for selected grade

The centre of the pillar provides some thought-provoking and well protected climbing at the top. Climb the short, steep wall awkwardly to a small ledge at the foot of a groove. Follow the groove to finish on the left arete.

A good steep route up the right hand arete of the tower that develops at half height. Pull up on some large holds and climb steeply past a thread runner to the horizontal break, ring bolt above. No E2 tick if you bridge right. Step left and climb the front face to a peg runner and a tricky exit.

Takes the fat finger crack from the back of the Dead Good cave to join White Heat at its final peg. Low end E1, so probably E0.

Start up centre of undercut by the cave(by dead good)(6a) or over left hand end at 5c. Peg on the right above. Straight up to second peg. Then straight up the hard headwall with a good bit of exposure.

A partial traverse of the main crag. Start up The Whole Truth, diagonally right to the small ledge on The Black Hole, and round the arete to White Heat and bridge to Dead Good. Move right across Live Evil and exit via Coming Up For The Bends

A full L-R traverse of the main crag. This can be split into pitches to suit the party but one itinerary is listed here. P1: Start up Left Root keeping below the stump, cross Right Root to the ledge of True Blue clipping the thread runner and swing round into Blue Groove, continue across Black Slab below the overlap to belay in Nothing But. P2: Cross the ledge of Whole Truth, grovel round to White Heat, desperately clipping the ring peg, and bridging to the large block between Dead Heat and Dead Good. P3: Breathe deep, traverse onto the overhanging bit of Live Evil, reach up to clip the peg (don't exhale on it) and finish - gasping for oxygen - on Coming Up For The Bends.

Technical though rather artifical. The left edge of the wall leads past a small bulge to a bolt runner. Finish directly up the blunt arete

The arete on the left is undercut and is challenging to start. Once off the ground it gets easier

The righthand undercut blunt arete. Start just around to the right and climb up and left to a ledge with an old peg runner. Move up and right then finish direct.

A serious lead. Start just to the right of Hawthorn Crack. Climb directly over two overlapsand pull over the third using small finger holds. Finish leftwards through a small "V" notch.

Start at a pedestal of rock halfway between Varsity Buttress and Epiglottis.

1. 5b, 30m. Ascend the grey rounded tower by bold dynamic moves to a pocket and gain the mixed ground above.

2. 5b, 15m. To the right of the traverse of the top pitch of Varsity Buttress is a hanging slab, below an roof. Traverse across the exposed slab and pull over the right-hand end of the roof. Finish as for Trachea.

I climbed this route a year before this ascent and reported it as "Allergic Rhinitis" not taking away anything from Stuart and Charlie just wanting to put the record straight. Was a major wobble due to the obvious hold on the wall being somewhat friable

Removes the 2 points of aid from the VS version it was originally climbed as. P1, 4a. P2, 5b. P3, 5a.

Poor rock and gear make this an slighty unsafe outing.

Ascend the unprotected arête located on the right side of the descent path. Prior to the climb, it may be necessary to clear any ivy obstructing the route.

Commence with your left hand in the pockets and ascend directly to the solid holds, reaching the finishing point.

The start of the route is very awkward but not as hard as it looks. Traverse off left or jump off, or continue to the top - it's about HVS.

Starting on the right wall of the Pinnacle, step up and traverse left to the arête, and further left to the start of Baldstones Face.

Traverse the north face of the Baldstone Pinnacle.

An impressive line but usually dirty and seldom climbed. Traverse out right to enter the inverted scoop in the overhangs and exit rapidly up a short crack. Unprotected and harrowing.

Left of the big roof, start from the ledge and move up and right to finish just right of the small pinnacle.

Crack School No. 5 in BMC Definitive Guidebook.

Crack School No. 7 in BMC Definitive Guidebook.

How's your offwidth technique? Crack School no. 9 in BMC Definitive Guide

Disappear into the holly.

Climb the centre of the left-hand side-wall of the gully, passing a useful flake to an exit on the left.

Follow the right-trending flake by awkward laybacking (good gear is available but it is tricky to place) to bulges, which are crossed by a steep pull and a delicate exit out left. A fine line.