Routes in Midlands for selected grade

A good steep route up the right hand arete of the tower that develops at half height. Pull up on some large holds and climb steeply past a thread runner to the horizontal break, ring bolt above. No E2 tick if you bridge right. Step left and climb the front face to a peg runner and a tricky exit.

Start up centre of undercut by the cave(by dead good)(6a) or over left hand end at 5c. Peg on the right above. Straight up to second peg. Then straight up the hard headwall with a good bit of exposure.

Technical though rather artifical. The left edge of the wall leads past a small bulge to a bolt runner. Finish directly up the blunt arete

Ascend the unprotected arête located on the right side of the descent path. Prior to the climb, it may be necessary to clear any ivy obstructing the route.

Ascend the route left of Slobberlob. This section features an overhang up to the first clip and a challenging manoeuvrer to pull onto a ledge for the second clip. From there, veer right to access more favourable holds leading to the next clip and ultimately reaching the top.

Begin at the crack and ascend it, then continue leftward while staying below the ledges of Problem 1

Begin by sitting on the incline, then ascend the left edge.

Sit-start to The Right Wall

#SD

The central groove is problematical until the first decent finger-jam is reached (a V2 problem). Teeter up the scoop above (no gear after the start) to an easier finish.

An impressive line but usually dirty and seldom climbed. Traverse out right to enter the inverted scoop in the overhangs and exit rapidly up a short crack. Unprotected and harrowing.

Left of the big roof, start from the ledge and move up and right to finish just right of the small pinnacle.

From a sit-start on the bottom right, traverse the rising lip of the small scrittly boulder in front of The Elephant Boulder. Top-out once you reach the top left above another rock. Esoterica for the lovers of lip traverses.

Crack School No. 10 in BMC Definitive Guidebook.

Crack School No. 7 in BMC Definitive Guidebook.

Classic crack

How's your offwidth technique? Crack School no. 9 in BMC Definitive Guide

Crack School No. 8 in BMC Definitive Guidebook.

Disappear into the holly.

Climb the centre of the left-hand side-wall of the gully, passing a useful flake to an exit on the left.

The hanging crack splitting the nose is a mini Ray's Roof and leads, in the unlikely event of success, into the clutches of the substantial holly.

Gain the lip of the roof from the diagonal crack on the right then foot traverse left to a shallow groove. Climb the left-hand side of this to finish. Thought by some to be 6b.

Good bold climbing though escapable. Climb the bulges (reachy) then straight up the centre of the face to the final crack of Bengal Buttress.