Routes in Midlands for selected grade

P1, E6 6c the obvious white shield left of the bottom pitch of Blind faith. Climb up below the wall, arrange gear in the crack on the left, climb up and right via a peg using some very small crimps (avoiding the section out left) before going straight up to the ledge above. P2, E5/6 6a. From the ledge. Move out left and go up the loose groove to the sloping ledge above. Climb straight up via the hanging fang block, stuck wire, to a sloping shelf handhold, hidden peg round to the left in a groovelet, (rest round to the right) before steep moves lead up and left onto a perched slab and belay. P3, E4 5b, move up and left above the belay and arrange gear, before pulling straight up through the dry stone wall section. Above, step left to a shot hole with a crack (gear) before moving back up and right to finish straight up more easily. Possibly E7 for the full route.

Sit with your left on an undercling and your right on a sloper. From there, progress to the break. Excluding the jug, traverse left on holds near the left arête to gain the shelf for the finish.

Full traverse of the Overhanging Wall, starting as for Devil Smoke and continuing far right of the wall.

A low traverse following a line of small holds just below the original. Finish up Baldy.

From the arete use poor holds to reach the top.

Horizontal offwidth crack.

The sloping arete on its left side.

A direct start to A Fist Full of Crystals, avoiding the use of the right-hand side slab.

From the tip of the Valkyrie flake, climb the wall past some useful flakes to a finish up the left arete. Wild and very reachy.

The impressive left arête of the Hawkwing buttress.

The hanging lower arete just right of the Headless Horseman traverse is reached via a very hard traverse from the right to the enticing pockets and a lovely balancy move to stand up in them. The arete above is much easier. Good cams under the roof protect (back-rope useful) and a very poor cam in the right-hand pocket just about serves for the rest.

Shares the start and end of Logical Progression, but tackles the direct and obvious long standing challenge; the improbable blunt arête and nose.

Continue direct up the bald slab above the start of Thin Air to a finish just right of Piece of Mind.

#highball

A harder variation of Tree-mendous, gaining the right-hand pocket with the left hand, then dynamically firing for the sloper.

Climb Tree-mendous footless.

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