Routes in Midlands for selected grade

Right to left, staying under the roof and emerging on the side of the prow.

Start standing at the base of the small second roof, with left on the little crimp on the arete and right on the sloper at the same level.

Pull up using more slopey holds and make a very difficult direct mantle using small holds onto the hanging slab.

The rock does not look to stable above so its best to jump off.

From the arete use poor holds to reach the top.

Shares the start and end of Logical Progression, but tackles the direct and obvious long standing challenge; the improbable blunt arête and nose.

L-R

Sit-start with your left on a sidepull and right on a gaston. Reach the sidepull situated just below the break, followed by grasping a sloped pinch to its right.

Utilise the higher sidepull located above and the slopey pinch slightly below to reach a secure hold near the top of the right arête, then complete the ascent to reach the top.

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