An amazing route with such varied climbing. Almost onsighted it but had one fall on the crux pitch as I didn't push myself far enough into the chimney. Happy with this tick and thanks Blair for taking me out
Rope soloed this route. So much respect to Brad for soloing this. Managed to get it clean on my third go, although I'll need to work on it more before I can go for the lead.
linked from Over and Out: delicately navigated characteristic loose Eldo ledge while Iris was getting blown off her belay stance. traversed in from left to not get snow on shoes, got 4-5 pieces in on downclimbable territory before finger crack got serious, then backcleaned.
The beginning is a bit scary as the best hold is your only pro but I managed to crimp some things and move up. I did fall up high at the traverse as I didn’t read the tricky sequence right. So good though!
Just the first amazing pitch - 11a! Will come back and do the whole thing. So good. Foot slipped on TR but did all the moves fairly easily - will come back to lead!
Made things way too strenuous under the roof, and missed the single hold that gets you onto the face. Had to sit. Would go knowing where to make that move rather than getting caught between genesis and boomerang
Redid the second pitch. Preplaced gear, I feel dirty. Wouldn’t be any harder to place it, I just wasn’t sure I could do that move again so I didn’t strip it on the way down.