Routes as trad in Africa

Avoids the crux of 'Thoko' to the left

Climbed on top rope only.

Climbed on top rope only.

Halfway up the ascent gully on the left hand side there is a smaller gully in the rock which may be ascended to chains at the top.

Climbed on top rope only.

Start on the Southeast side of the mountain at a large orange flake.

Pitch 1 Starts at 3m flake crack which leads up to a groove. Up groove to belay on grass ledge. Short pitch with good view of following party at the belay ledge.

Pitch 2 Along grass ledge to prominent chimney on right, climb chimney to chock stone at crest. Chimney can easily be soloed. A fun variation exists on the face of the tower which allows for some fun and exposed moves. Be aware of loose choss. Especially since there will most likely be local children watching from below.

Pitch 3 Up awkward corner above to platform below summit block. Or easier rising traverse to left then up. Climb left-hand arête to summit. Or as 'North Face Route' Descend the same way you come up, or use the bolted anchor to abseil to a ledge with a large tree and cactus. A 70 meter rope will allow for a single abseil to the bottom, or a 60 meter rope will require re-rigging at the tree. Use good rope practices while rappelling and avoid getting your rope lodge in any slots during retrieval.

only rap anchors

Long approach scramble from Eastern Side. Chimneys and squeeze through cracks. Mandatory 10m abseil to get to the start of the climb.

Amazing line that starts from the regular route approach just before 3 step chimney. Pitch 1 - The big hard and scary chimney, bolted but big cams essential. Pitch 2 - Continue up the perfect hand crack / dihedral to slightly dodgy stacked towers of rock. Clip a bolt then go right under the roof to a stance at the end of the roof. The 3rd pitch is hard and has only 3 bolts. Start via a hard boulder problem to sustained laybacking and finger jams. Small feet. Pitch 4 - more of the same but easier to climb over a fig creeper and leftwards into an open chimney and then up the slab. Pitch 5 - Head right across the easy slab (bolts) and up to the obvious break in the roof. Hard moves into this and out the the right (bolts) lead to a belay on a ledge. Pitch 6 - Easy. Climb into the deep chimney and walk/shuffle along this to the rightwards ramp. Climb up this to the 1st bolted stance of the regular abseil route. A short scramble to the summit.

1st ascent was made ground up with aid and free climbing but the route is not fully free yet.

THE ROUTE IS NOT YET FULLY OPENED FOR OTHER PARTIES AND HAS THE BOLT HANGERS REMOVED TO PREVENT PEOPLE CLIMBING IT.

Same approach as the Normal Route

Mixed route with some Aid A0

Mixed route Trad & Bolts with a bit of Aid A0

Mixed Route

21 if aided. Classic line but be prepared for runout chimney climbing. The first pitch of 24 can be aided as the holds are now polished and the grade may be higher.

great finger crack on pitch 2!

Heavy

Beautiful cam placements but terrible back ache

Great way to access Watersports and N in M. 1st pitch is trad and has better gear than it looks from below. 2nd pitch is sport. 3rd pitch is easy but runout with 2 bolts only.

Varied mixed trad and bolted route. Amazing climbing. Bolts placed to allow for aiding the cruxes. Take 16 quick-draws and a single rack of cams up to BD4 and wires plus lots of slings for threads. Bolted stances. 60m ropes obligatory. See http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215046/Great-Spitzkoppe-Northwest-Face-Mamba-No-5-and-Other-New-Routes

Short and slightly chossy crack on the SW wall side of Elephant Rock. Anchors at the top.

SCARY! 1st pitch has 1 peg and 1 bolt and a run-out of almost 35 meters. Don't fall. Further bolts to be added soon and then the route will be much more enjoyable. Pitch 1 - Climb up the flaky corner crack past a peg to a foot ledge and a bolt. Friction up and then diagonally left to reach a hidden crack to belay on large cams. X rated pitch! Pitch 2 - Follow the wide corner crack (BD5 & 6) to belay on chockstones. Awesome! Pitch 3 - Continue up the crack crossing over to the right and up a crack system. A hard pull over a bulge to belay on a ledge. Pitch 4 - Climb up a groove with good but spaced gear past a steepening and then up the easy slab to belay in a cave. Pitch 5 - Squeeze up and out right of the cave and scramble up easy ground to the belay bolts on Hoab Hanab. Abseil down this route from here. TOPO here: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215046/Great-Spitzkoppe-Northwest-Face-Mamba-No-5-and-Other-New-Routes

Great little route. 1st pitch easily protected, 2nd pitch no so much. Long runout on a very wide layback crack at the top. Bolts to be added soon. Topo can be found here: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215046/Great-Spitzkoppe-Northwest-Face-Mamba-No-5-and-Other-New-Routes