Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 30th Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Pindari | ||||||
22 | ★★ Much of a Muchness - with Sammi | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Less sustained than This Sporting Life, might be easier for some?
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Thu 13th Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Pierces Pass West Side | ||||||
25 | FA ★★ The Watchers On The Wall - with Jake Bresnehan, Kamil Sustiak | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Has all those ingredients you want in a Pierces Pass multipitch. Some adventure, some easier climbing, some harder climbing, all well-protected on U-bolts but with a feeling of growing intensity as you get higher. If you've not been to this wall before, it's around 25 mins walk-in from the carpark to the base of the route, mostly on an excellent track (see Bladderhozen approach notes in guide). Climb, rap back down, walk out. Or combine with The Iron Throne or Bladderhozen for more sport pitch fun in the same zone.
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Sun 12th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Pierces Pass West Side | ||||||
24 |
★★ The Iron Throne
- with
Jake Bresnehan
| 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome one to do as a sport-multi summer afternoon combined with Bladderhozen as they are virtually side by side.
|
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23 | ★★ Bladderhozen - with Jake Bresnehan | 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great! Super variety of holds and rock shapes. Steepish, and mostly jugs.
|
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Sun 10th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Hocus Pocus Area | ||||||
15 | ★ El Dingle | 54m, 3 | Don't Bother | |||
This was not the "climb with a pack on shortcut to the car" route I was hoping for. What was probably a fun jaunt in the 60s is just too dangerous by modern standards. And oddly, because of the few bolts, their positions and hugely weaving nature of the climbing, it's probably just as dangerous for the second as the leader.
|
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Sun 10th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Cottage Boulder | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Leanings - with Sammi | 17m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Oddly sustained.
|
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25 | ★ Cant - with Sammi | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Blazing sun; bit of a battle.
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Mon 4th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | ||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan - with Sammi | 50m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting in part because you cannot see the business from the ground. The hidden offwidth was actually hard! If I was doing it again I'd wear socks and maybe an approach shoe on my left foot. Thank god for the #5 camalot I've been holding onto for 20 years and never using until now. The novel cord-slung chockstone belay could do with an upgrade to chain as it's only a matter of time before abrasion or sun gets the better of it.
|
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Sun 12th Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zap Crag Upper Zap | ||||||
22 | ★★ Jug Buzz - with Sammi | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Gearing up
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28 | ★★★ Pulse - with Sammi | 20m, 7 | ||||
Skin wasn't really up to the task, but will be keen to go back. Did all moves except what I presume is the crux to the blobby section. Didn't seem easy!
|
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28 | ★★ Zapt - with Sammi | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second go. 20 degrees, 20% humidity, gale force westerlies. With a wing suit I could have soloed it.
|
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Sun 5th Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sunbath | ||||||
12 | ★★ Until Death Do Us Part - with Sammi | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Down jacket, sneakers and gardening gloves. Proper alpine.
|
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22 23 | ★★ The Incredible Hulk - with Sammi | 11m | ★ Good | |||
Curious.
|
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14 | ★★ Mañana - with Sammi | 22m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Down jacket, sneakers and gardening gloves. Proper alpine.
|
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Fri 3rd Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Narrow Neck Crags Southern Crag | ||||||
18 | ★★★ On Both Sides of the Glass Direct - with Sammi | 60m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The first pitch is a great arete feature. Tons of trad and 2 carrots. Crux bulge is tricky and pumpy. For the second pitch, the direct certainly seemed the more sensible option and I'm glad we took it. I wonder if many people hit the ledge falling off the start of p2 (especially on second with rope stretch)? Take a panic draw if you have one. I reckon you'd want to be confident climbing 22 on trad to jump on this one. We walked off (staying roped up for the first 30m) which was fine to get back to the Cave Climb abseil, or back to the car if this is your last climb of the day.
|
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13 | ★★★ Cave Climb - with Sammi | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic and unique cave pitch, crawling into the depths of the earth. You can happily take and use all your large protection. Big cams #3 → #5, big hexes etc. Access is rap in (50m should be fine), climb out, so very convenient. Stay safe getting to the exposed abseil point.
|
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Sun 22nd Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Mezzaluna Area | ||||||
16 | ★★ Mezzaluna - with Sammi | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
What's a better single pitch sport 16 in the Mtns?
|
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19 | ★★ Public Pressure - with Sammi | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
21 20 | ★★ Murmel Snooze - with Sammi | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Rooflet move is hard. I wonder how many ascents of this have skirted around to the right?
|
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22 23 | ★ Cultivate a Callus - with Sammi | 10m | Average | |||
Hard, and harder still if you don't spot the grips. Climbs more like a boulder problem.
|
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18 | ★ High Society - with Sammi | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★ My Grandmother's Dinky - with Sammi | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Right on golden hour with live music pumping from the valley. Lockdown party?
|
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9 | ★ Frolic - with Sammi | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
#11 hex, y'all!
|
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Sun 15th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
22 | ★★ Thin Time - with Sammi | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quite good, interesting, weird, and hard - especially up top. Solid 23.
|
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26 | ★★ Daphne - with Sammi | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Failed on low crux.
|
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26 | ★★ Daphne - with Sammi | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really pleased to have got this one in the bag. Hats off to Mikl clawing his way up this in biblical times. [3]
|
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Sun 15th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
13 | ★ Charity - with Sammi | 14m | ★ Good | |||
16 surely?
|
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15 | ★★ Hope - with Sammi | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice one
|
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15 15 R | ★ Chastity - with Sammi | 14m | ||||
Retreat! Retreat! Climbed in 1966 in concrete boots and wooden rope. In 2021 with modern gear, I backed off. And I'm alright with that.
|
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Sat 7th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
26 | ★★ Daphne - with Sammi | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I was quietly proud to onsight the first 20m with no feeling in my fingers. I'd done the hard climbing, but fingies ceased to open or close, making climbing difficult. Warmed up and went to top. Will go back for it.
|
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21 | ★★★ The Janicepts - with Sammi | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Man, that was great. Intimidating, glad to have finally done it. Filmed the POV, it's on YouTube. Onsight spolier.
|
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18 | ★★★ Amen Corner - with Sammi | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really cool, with the wide section being pretty heady (for those of us without #7 cams!). Calves were burning. There may have even been #calfspooge.
|
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Sat 31st Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | ||||||
22 21 | ★ Vinyl Idl - with Sammi | 23m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Yeah I'd give this 22 at least. A bit awkward and oozey but worth doing (moreso if there was an easy lower-off). Easy to run out of plates with both bottom and top belays requiring them. No top lower-off (2BRs). I walked climbers L 50m to a perma-slung tree, rapped from here to vegetated halfway ledge, located the bolted lower-off above the Carthegenian and rapped here to the floor. Apparently you can also go climbers R to rap down The Plunge.
|
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19 | ★ Cartwheeling - with Sammi | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice interesting jaunt. Second pitch arete was pretty cool with a few airy delicate moves.
|
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Sun 18th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Tombstone Wall - with Sammi | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A cool varied wandering adventure. The low mantle is quite tricky I thought! Don't land on the tree spike of death!
|
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17 |
★★★ Flake Crack
- with
Sammi
1
17
15m
2
17
15m
3
23m
| 53m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I'm surprised there's not more prangs on this. The layback is pretty slip-off-able and big cams aren't always the best things in the world. Having a couple of #4 camalots for the flake would be prudent rather than relying on one.
|
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Sun 18th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ The Carthaginian | 33m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Can't claim the onsight. Seconded this 19 years ago
|
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Thu 15th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Hot Flyer Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Loop the Loop | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First lap in 17 years. Fell off the final hold
|
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Sun 11th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Cheap Dive Wall and Beyond | ||||||
22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great fun.
|
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Sun 11th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Black Bart's Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Black Bart - with Sammi | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Continually interesting and enjoyable from bottom to top.
|
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13 | ★★★ Honey Dip - with Sammi | 28m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
This is the best easy pitch I've done in the Blue Mountains.
|
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Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Giggles Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Giggles - with Sammi | 30m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Classic! Just two cams (#1.5 and #2 friend).
|
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Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Dress Rehearsal Rag Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Dead Milkmen - with Sammi | 15m, 1 | Average | |||
Lots of little wires. I tried to avoid stickclipping the only very high first carrot, but then backed off and stickclipped. Which was a bit of a mission in and of itself.
|
||||||
21 |
★★ Dress Rehearsal Rag
- with
Sammi
2
21
20m
| 35m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting moves for a slab.
|
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23 | ★ Disaster Area - with Sammi | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5th shot. Yup! Slabs!
|
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Mon 14th Jun 2021 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point The Very Nice Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Killer Boas - with Sammi | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Sort of a 1 legged ascent type of thing.
|
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Mon 14th Jun 2021 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Descent Gully Walls | ||||||
17 | ★★ Butt Head - with Sammi | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Something I could do after the MCL tear. Such nice gritstone on this wall.
|
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Sat 12th Jun 2021 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Little Grease Cave | ||||||
30 | ★★★ Narcosis - with Doug McConnell | 10m | ||||
Things were coming along nicely until my knee went POP. Serves me right for dropkneeing though.
|
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Sat 22nd May 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Elphinstone Main Wall | ||||||
30 | ★★★ Mr Squiggle (Linkup) (Mr Squiggle) - with Doug McConnell | 30m | ||||
Yowza. Bolt to bolt first run.
|
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Sun 16th May 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Sunnyside | ||||||
30 | ★★ House of Suns - with Sammi | 25m, 11 | ||||
Fell on move to final crimp. Fingers too numb and slow. Tried heel beta and it worked nicely. Maybe it’s the way to redpoint.
|
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30 | ★★ House of Suns - with Sammi | 25m, 11 | ||||
Fell same move using heel beta. Hmm. Dunno.
|
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30 | ★★ House of Suns - with Sammi | 25m, 11 | ||||
Gearing up
|
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Fri 14th May 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Hat Hill Crag | ||||||
23 | ★★ Fascinator - with Duncan Steel †| 25m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Fluffed the onsight [2]
|
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22 | ★★ Fedora - with Duncan Steel †| 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Consistent and interesting the whole way. A great route at this grade.
|
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Sun 9th May 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Oliver Stone | ||||||
26 | ★★ Age Against the Machine - with Duncan Steel †| 17m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fitness lap.
|
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Sun 9th May 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone | ||||||
27 | ★★ Fucked on Cocaine - with Duncan Steel †| 16m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great addition by Evan; very well-equipped and quite bouldery. May be comparable to something like White Linen. Psyched.
|
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27 | ★★★ Some Violence and Sexual References - with Duncan Steel †| 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fitness lap.
|
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Sat 8th May 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Gateway, Doomsday & Fort Rock Doomsday Wall | ||||||
20 | One for the Old School - with Duncan Steel †| 17m, 5 | Don't Bother | |||
Glad Duncan led this! Can't imagine many people would bother with this one? I'm actually not really sure why you bolted it Monty, let alone with carrots. I'm sure there's a good story.
|
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22 | ★★ Minority of Fun - with Duncan Steel †| 33m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Need to second as the massive traverse makes it "uncleanable" otherwise. The slab section off the belay on orange marble was super-tech!
|
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23 | ★★ Cockorona - with Duncan Steel †| 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Maybe the most memorable move on the whole wall: the slab-mantle! Deary me, kill me now!
|
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24 | ★★ Submission - with Duncan Steel †| 25m | ★ Good | |||
Good one, felt like a bit of a gamble which way to go at the top.
|
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24 | ★★ Patience Zero - with Duncan Steel †| 37m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I was closest to falling off the top of this. No chalk to guide the way, proper hunting.
|
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25 | ★★★ Lockdown - with Duncan Steel †| 36m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some proper tricky moves on the slab. Did this as the last route and was happy to get away with it.
|
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Sun 2nd May 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag The Blowhole | ||||||
27 | ★★ Full Blown Frenzy - with Doug McConnell, Sammi | 11 | ★ Good | |||
A rush of blood to the head? [2]
|
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Sat 1st May 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Nylon Happy - with Doug McConnell | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Probably loses a star in today's money for the early 90s bolt positions.
|
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25 | ★★ Sparkle Motion - with Doug McConnell | 20m, 9 | Don't Bother | |||
17 year project! Lol, but also seriously. #FDLFCS [4]
|
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Thu 29th Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Sail Away Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Wipe Out - with Doug McConnell | 30m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Between Mon 26 and Thu 29 Apr 2021, one of my quickdraws was removed from the traverse bolt. It's black, 25cm dogbone, Petzl biners. Slightly odd given the entire route and extension were geared up, and everything else was untouched. Maybe a cockatoo ate it?
|
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29 28 | ★★★ My Pheramone - with Doug McConnell, Duncan Steel †| 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Long slings, roller biners, 50m of air, skipping clips and and going feet first to the lip. That's what I call a good time. [6]
|
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Thu 15th Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Self Portrait Wall | ||||||
29 | ★★★ Self Portrait - with Jake Bresnehan, Sammi | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Six tries this year. Several lobs off the last move [9]
|
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Sun 28th Mar 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mitchells Ridge Grace Gully | ||||||
24 | ★★ Mogambo - with Sammi, Aaron Jones | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Quite nice. Need to lay some power down at the top.
|
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26 | ★★★ Grace - with Sammi, Aaron Jones | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
13 years after my previous attempt in 2008. Fell on the last move on this Alzheimer's OS try.
|
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26 | ★★★ Grace - with Sammi, Aaron Jones | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Understandably popular. Weirdly endurancy for such a short route. Heartbreaker finish.
|
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23 | ★ Will it Stay? - with Sammi | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Looks very unassuming from the ground. Top section is no joke. There are plenty of easier 24s around.
|
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Sat 6th Mar 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Dr Stein | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
25 | ★★★ Dr Stein | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
22 | ★★ Room With a View | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
24 | ★★ Surprise Package | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
24 | ★★ Surprise Package | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 13th Jan 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Steep Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Vasco Pyjama - with Sammi | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
16 | ★★ The Sisters of Fatima - with Sammi | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 13th Jan 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Gulf War Wall | ||||||
23 | Guerilla Warfare - with Sammi | 18m, 6 | Average | |||
22 | ★★ Sister Rosa - with Sammi | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 13th Dec 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Self Portrait Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Chook Lotto - with Sammi | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
14 years later apparently, now with trustworthy bolts. I would have called it an onsight but theCrag keeps me honest. You can kneebar your way through the start, if you're that way inclined.
|
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Sun 6th Dec 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass La La Land Area | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Legoland - with Sammi | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fri 4th Dec 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff | ||||||
19 | ★ Anal Leakage - with Sammi | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★ Red Sleigh Down - with Sammi | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 4th Dec 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Rock Hudson | ||||||
25 | ★★ Geek Salad - with Sammi | 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice, well worth getting on!
|
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Sun 27th Sep 2020 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Trenches The Caves | ||||||
V4 V6 | ★★★ Bring It On | 12m | ||||
In the modern world of roof climbing and kneebars, this would be a grade 24 roof route if it was on a rope, but it does seem a bit mean to suggest it's a V3?
|
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Sun 27th Sep 2020 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Trenches AWOL | ||||||
V2 V2 R | ★★ AWOL | 4m | ||||
Sun 27th Sep 2020 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Frontline The Main Wall | ||||||
V4 V4 R | ★★ Toe to Toe | 6m | ||||
V10 V10 R | Woolly Jumper | |||||
V6 | ★★ A2 is Not a Tank | 3m | ||||
Sat 29th Aug 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The White Tower | ||||||
20 22 | ★★ The Sun is the Same (Unknown Left) | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really great, but a couple of spicy runouts mean you'll enjoy this more with a few grades of buffer. Could be 22ish?
|
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24 | ★ In a Relative Way (Unknown Middle) | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Some of the thinnest moves of all time to get started, yeesh! Oh, and the slab! Good god, the slab! 24 is fair I'd say.
|
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26 | ★★ Brother Love's Travelling Salvation Show (Unknown Right) | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Yeeees. "23!" = 26, says I. The roof is surprisingly unobvious on the onsight and if your brain is telling you it's only 23(!), it's really setting you up to fail. Think 26 and go for it. And above that, it's not over.
|
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Sat 29th Aug 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Red Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ The Diving Board | 22m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 15th Aug 2020 - Jessicca's | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Bedside Manner | 5m | ||||
V8 | ★★ Midwife Crisis | 3m | ||||
Sun 2nd Aug 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper War Babies Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ No U-Turn - with Sammi | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 2nd Aug 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Equaliser Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ Slay Ride - with Sammi | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Failed onsight attempt.
|