Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 13th Sep 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone | ||||||
29 | FA ★★ Irreconcilable Differences - with Jason McCarthy | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Roof boulder, then roof boulder, then deceptive headwall finale. Three days [4].
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Sun 1st Sep 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone | ||||||
29 | FA ★★ The Specialist - with Sammi | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Who doesn't love some feet-first action? Three days [4]
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Sun 18th Aug 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grand Junction Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Grand Junction - with Sammi | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty steady going with one decent runout. Liked it.
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Sun 18th Aug 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper War Babies Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ No U-Turn - with Sammi | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Gearing up. Repeat.
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24 | ★★ No U-Turn - with Sammi | 20m | ★ Good | |||
A lap in socks.
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Mon 5th Aug 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Sapper Cave | ||||||
5.12c | ★★ The Butterfly Effect - with Sammi | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Definitely had to work for it. The top crux is ... well, I won't ruin it. But you better stretch your groin.
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Mon 5th Aug 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
The Anti-Phil Wall | ||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Movement of Fear - with Sammi | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Attempted end of last day onsight - fell right on the top. Excellent route though, one to come back for.
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5.12c | ★★★ I Am Not A Philistine - with Sammi | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Cleaned up after failed OS attempt last year. Felt very hard! OS from bolt 5 to the top. [2]
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Mon 5th Aug 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
The Meat Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Cold Cuts - with Sammi | 30m | ||||
Repeat.
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Sun 4th Aug 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
The Anti-Phil Wall | ||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Eurotrash - with Sammi | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Bolt to bolt to suss it.
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5.13b | ★★★ Eurotrash - with Sammi | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Came together really well. Excellent power endurance rig. [3]
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Sun 4th Aug 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Skull Cave | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Pile Driver - with Sammi, Eric Godfrey | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easy if you like steep jug pulling.
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Sun 4th Aug 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Canine Wall | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Mr Scary - with Sammi, Eric Godfrey | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Leany.
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Fri 2nd Aug 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
The Nappy Dugout | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Fossil Family - with Sammi | ★ Good | ||||
I mistakenly started up Family Jewels and linked into the rest of this which made it harder apparently.
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5.11c | ★★ Geriatric Journey - with Sammi | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Loooooooooong! Well worth doing if you like some length in your life.
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Thu 1st Aug 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Ruckman Cave | ||||||
5.13a | ★★ Shibumi - with Kris Hampton | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My first and probably only ever 5.13 onsight at Rifle. Stoked.
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5.12a | ★★★ Return to Sender - with Eric Godfrey | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Steep, huge holds, get the right sequence turning the roof or it's "return to sender".
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Thu 1st Aug 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Sno-Cone Cave | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Joey Ninja Superstar - with Sammi | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 31st Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
The Meat Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Cold Cuts - with Sammi | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Could this be the most polished route on the planet? Need to do a side-by-side with some of those mirrors in Arco.
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5.11d | ★★★ James Brown's Wild Ride - with Sammi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One intricate bit up high. Lots of stemming.
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5.12b | ★★★ The Gun Show - with Sammi | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
My highest rated route of this trip. Epic top corner involving every trick. Super good.
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5.10d | ★ Bulges of Munge - with Sammi | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat
|
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Mon 29th Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Ruckman Cave | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Firearms - with Sammi | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A bit polished but with good reason. Classic!
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5.12b | ★★★ Loose Cannon - with Sammi | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Had to drop the clutch a bit at the top. Yeeeesh!
|
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5.11b | ★ Primer - with Sammi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Couple of awkward sections but a good project at this grade. In the top-5 most polished routes in the canyon.
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Mon 29th Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Kubrick's | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Full Metal Jacket - with Sammi | 24m | ★ Good | |||
5.11c | Lord Bullingdon - with Sammi | 18m, 8 | Average | |||
Hard in the corner, was almost outta there.
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5.12b | ★★ Road To Zion - with Sammi | 45m, 22 | ★★ Very Good | |||
New mega extension with awesome flake feature. A very full 45m long.
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Sun 28th Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Bauhaus | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Hurl Jam - with Sammi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Repeat.
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5.13d | Der Pure - with Sammi | |||||
Proj shopping. Couldn't do the first hard bit, couldn't do the second hard bit. Weird. Bailed!
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5.14a | All The Pretty Horses - with Sammi | |||||
Proj shopping. Thought I was on Der Pure. An undercling in the low crux boulder started to crumble on me so I called it.
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Sun 28th Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Sno-Cone Cave | ||||||
5.12d | ★★ Footlong - with Sammi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool snatchy climbing. [2]
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5.11b | ★ Wedding Streak - with Sammi | 11m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Shorty #1
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5.11b | ★★ Winter's End - with Sammi | ★ Good | ||||
Shorty #2
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5.10c | Peaceful Revolution - with Sammi | 24m | Average | |||
Repeat.
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Fri 26th Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Bauhaus | ||||||
5.13d | Huge - with Sammi | |||||
Proj shopping. Bolt to bolted, all moves bar one at the painful slot/fingerlock move at the top of the scoop.
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Fri 26th Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Sno-Cone Cave | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Suck It and See - with Sammi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pretty punchy, cool.
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5.10d | ★★ No Risk No Fin - with Sammi | ★ Good | ||||
Actually very nearly fell on this.
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Thu 25th Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Funny Face | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Borat - with Sammi | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Made ascent for benefit glorious nation of Kazakhstan.
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Thu 25th Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Winchester Cave | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Ricochet - with Sammi | 27m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Runout and intricate. Not the best one to do jetlagged.
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Thu 25th Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Kubrick's | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Dr. Strangelove - with Sammi | 26m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Perhaps the best easy route in Rifle.
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5.10b | ★★ Redmond Barry - with Sammi | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10b | ★ Jack Torrance - with Sammi | 25m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 28th Jun 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone | ||||||
28 | FA ★★ Broken Flowers - with Sammi | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Bouldering on a rope - fun athletic, super steep climbing split by a couple of rest ledges. Iron cross down low, elevator doors at the mid-crux. Three days [4]
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Sat 22nd Jun 2019 - Nowra | ||||||
Bomaderry Creek South Central | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Maintain The Rage - with Sammi | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
That start move though! Brutal! Skipped it first time, fluffed it second time ripping skin, third time stuck it and absolutely did not want to do it again, so topped out. [3]
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23 | ★ Strike - with Sammi | 7m | ||||
Haha. When I'm yarding '8a hard' on a mono stack on a 23, it's time to pack it in.
|
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19 | ★★ Silver Hands - with Sammi | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Repeat
|
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19 | ★ Burping Burgers - with Sammi | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Kinda interesting, a little harder than Silver Hands perhaps.
|
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24 | ★ Poo With Me - with Sammi | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Fell on the final move first time. [2]
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Mon 10th Jun 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper War Babies Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ A Good Day to be a Duck - with Sammi | 24m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Just on the bolts.
|
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24 | ★★ No U-Turn - with Sammi | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Repeat.
|
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Fri 31st May 2019 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Spittle Hill Map 11 Cyclops Boulder | ||||||
V7 | ★★ Pandemonium | ★ Good | ||||
Birthday send, second try.
|
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Sun 26th May 2019 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Flock Hill Split Apple Field | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Split Apple SS | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V4 | ★★ Split Apple Dyno | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 18th May 2019 - Wilyabrup | ||||||
Main Crags Steel Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Heavy Metal - with Sammi | 30m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Had to wait until the commercial abseil group moved off this, and the wall was then in the sun. Sigh. Crux is super interesting and easy to bugger up, as it turns out. Dropping the onsight of this will haunt me forever.
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Sat 18th May 2019 - Wilyabrup | ||||||
Main Crags One For The Road | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Fishing With Dynamite - with Sammi | 24m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super interesting, engaging climbing all the way. Great!
|
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Sat 18th May 2019 - Wilyabrup | ||||||
Main Crags Fat Chance Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Fat Chance - with Sammi | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Done as a rather runout sport route. Great sequence!
|
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Sat 18th May 2019 - Wilyabrup | ||||||
Main Crags Inner Space Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ The Spin of It - with Sammi | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky onsight with no chalk and salty rock. Went up and down a bunch before getting through on the slimpers.
|
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22 | ★★ Stormbringer - with Sammi | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely rounded sloper holds.
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Fri 17th May 2019 - Bob's Hollow | ||||||
20 19 | ★★ Puk Puk Sen - with Sammi | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super nice.
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19 20 | ★ Thyeses Feast - with Sammi | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Whoa, this is not the warm up you are looking for! Move along!
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25 | ★★★ Hollow Promise (Hollow Promises) - with Sammi | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quite good, bit of a tricky read up high.
|
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25 26 | ★★★ Toy Shopping - with Sammi | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A Moonboard! Really cool!
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26 | ★★ Spatula Man - with Sammi | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Just missed the OS.
|
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26 | ★★ Spatula Man - with Sammi | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Solid unit for me. Sharp, sequency pockets are a bit of an antistyle. [2]
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20 | ★★★ Shaved Cat - with Sammi | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Wow, this is hard for the grade! I'd give this 22 probably.
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Thu 25th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Underworld | ||||||
25 | ★★ Gravel Rash | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Sometimes it feels like the onsight was really close. Not in this case. Would never have happened! Off-finger crack through a roof. Don't watch this video if you want to onsight it https://youtu.be/iVlE2a14xr0
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Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone | ||||||
21 | ★ Hunter Or Prey? - with kris hampton | 22m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Did this with Kris same week it was bolted.
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Fri 19th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau The Pit Sector 'Pit Fighter' | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Pit Fighter - with Erik Smits, @1293 | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Send attempt - fell on the crux, came down.
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28 | ★★★ Pit Fighter - with Erik Smits, @1293 | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Managed to hang on and get it done. Happy to do this one in a day. I wanted to climb it placing the gear, hence the ground up effort, but stripping such a steep route each time requires some serious motivation. Maybe one day, but for now I'm content. [3] Footage: https://youtu.be/UTzYm7htdu8
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28 | ★★★ Pit Fighter - with Erik Smits, @1293 | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Attempted ground up. Definitely out of my comfort zone. Slipped out of the wet initial boulder and that was that. Then climbed from the ground to the crux (placing gear) and fell on the crux, unsurprisingly. Took some effort to unlock the crux move. Then to top, placing gear with a couple of rests. Was en route for well over an hour.
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Sun 14th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone | ||||||
25 | FA ★★ Sliver - with @1293 | 25m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Placed the anchors and cleaned up this 20yo abandoned project. It's actually quite good if you like long adventurous sport climbing. Might even be soft at 25? Note to self: I still need to chop off a corroded bail biner. [2]
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28 | FA ★★ Basic Instinct - with @1293 | 25m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Vaguely reminiscent of Sunnyside at the Pit. High stickclip to start; steep, moderate climbing for 6 bolts to a ledge below the quote-unquote slab. A baffling move to overcome the slab and then it's game on up the headwall on cool pockets to an improbable-looking, dynamic crux. [7]
|
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Sat 13th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Sweet Nightmare (Link-Up) - with Sammi, Kris, Analissa | 130m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice sneaker romp with friends.
|
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Sat 6th Apr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
21 | ★ Constrictor - with Sammi | 18m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
After botching it the other day and finishing up World Party, today climbed as intended.
|
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27 26 | ★★ Forked Tongue - with Sammi | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Was very confident but fell on the span again. Easy to bugger up!
|
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27 26 | ★★ Forked Tongue - with Sammi | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Obviously tricky (pointless?) to grade a reach dependent crux, but for me at 175cm of reach, this is worth 27. Climbed in one pitch via Anaconda p1. If you like stop-start routes, this'll be your jam. [3]
|
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26 | ★★ Jumping Viper - with Sammi | 28m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried the dyno about 20 times. Latched the hold on a few occasions but didn't manage to control the swing. Ankles still sore. Onsighted the rest.
|
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Thu 4th Apr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
22 | Anaconda Pitch 1 - with Sammi | 17m | Average | |||
As part of Forked Tongue. That bolt is now something of a relic.
|
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21 | ★★★ Constrictor into World Party - with Sammi | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Done by many others previously as this is the obvious straight-up line of climbing. Well worth doing at this grade and gives a great introductory taste of proper Taipan climbing.
|
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26 | ★★ Forked Tongue - with Sammi | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried very hard to onsight - failed. Fell on the span. It's less technical than the Groovy span, but about the same distance. I had so much crap hanging off my harness. A #4 rock and #1.5 cam will do it. Fingers crossed for Saturday.
|
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Wed 3rd Apr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Spurt Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ This Spurting Life - with Sammi | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Description says 'soft tick if you can crimp'. Well, I certainly avoided crimping! Liked this more than I anticipated.
|
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22 | ★ Spurting Mildly - with Sammi | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Surprisingly interesting movement for such a short route.
|
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Wed 3rd Apr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
20 | ★★ Atomic Tadpole - with Sammi | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool to do something on this end of the wall. A really cool easier tradventure. Getting off was unexpectedly involved (soloing down into the chimney behind to eventually reach a rap station).
|
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Wed 3rd Apr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Groovy - with Sammi | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
The entrance exam to the main event is still pretty amazing in its own right. And you can open hand every RH hold, so perfect for a recovering finger injury. Six tries, and one shot 13 years ago.
|
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Mon 1st Apr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Groovy - with Sammi | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Stuck the crux span, and dropped the next move. Shiiiiii.
|
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28 | ★★★ Groovy - with Sammi | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Ditched the span.
|
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28 | ★★★ Groovy - with Sammi | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lap in the sun. Burst into flames.
|
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Mon 1st Apr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
23 23 R | ★★★ The Seventh Pillar Left Hand Variant - with Sammi | 46m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Full version including the pants filling traverse.
|
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Sun 31st Mar 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
21 | ★★ Sirocco Pitch 1 - with Kris Hampton | 20m, 1 | Average | |||
17 years between drinks on this one. Pretty desperate really. Especially when wet.
|
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Sun 31st Mar 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Groovy - with Sammi, Kris Hampton | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
13 years later and I can do the crux span - just!
|
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28 | ★★★ Groovy - with Sammi, Kris Hampton | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
From ground to crux.
|
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Sun 31st Mar 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
23 | ★★ The Seventh Banana Pitch 1 - with Sammi | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
12 years since I last climbed this. I was bolder back then.
|
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Sun 24th Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
19 18 | ★★ Apron Strings | 32m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really enjoyed this. Plenty of gear and enjoyable the whole way.
|
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24 | ★ Thrust Gut | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
A lot of conjecture about the grade of this. In any case, a good test of the finger in very humid conditions.
|
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Thu 14th Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff | ||||||
20 | ★★ Mr Christmas Poo - with Kris Hampton | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
18 | ★ Mr Scumbag - with Kris Hampton | 20m | ★ Good | |||
20 | ★★ Hark! The .. - with Kris Hampton | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
23 | ★★ Rudolf the Bloody Reindeer - with Kris Hampton | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
21 | FA ★ Red Sleigh Down - with Kris Hampton | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
FFA. A touch harder than the 20s. The name manages to weave in the themes of Christmas, South Park and Jimmy. This also happens to be my 300th first ascent in Australia.
|