★★★ Arachnus 9

A truly great climb up the middle of the Watchtower. Many variants are possible, especially in the middle section; yes they have already been climbed. Start up the right-hand of the two deep cracks at the base of The Watchtower. This is just left of the undercut section (Pumping), and 9m R of Watchtower Chimney.

1. (40m, 8) Up deep crack until it ends. Traverse 4 metres right, up over disconcerting bulge and follow crack to large ledge. (The first ascent traversed all the way to the right arete before climbing bulge).

2. (21m, 8) Either climb up left of the belay or climb just right of the crack until below bulge and then step left over the crack. Belay on narrow ledge below overhang on left side of The Watchtower.

3. (14m, 9) Either climb straight up veering slightly right, or traverse right on smooth rock past ancient piton before moving right. Belay in a good cave on the right side of the buttress.

4. (30m, 8) Move left out of cave and up exhilarating wall to top. Prearrange your signals as communication is likely to be impossible from the top.

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

• Stick to the paths.

• Don't disturb the wildlife.

• Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

• Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).