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Routes in Lunch Ledge for selected grade

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
19 Jub Jub the Iguana

Climbs the grey wall just right of the little cave.

Sport 15m
19 The Silk Road
1 17 35m
2 19 35m
3 19 30m
4 16 25m

Quite a striking line climbing a continuous corner crack system back to the Lunch Ledge. Starts about 50m left (facing the cliff) of the Mirrorball pinnacle, downhill under right facing corner. All trad with gear belays, no bolts please. Gear: wires, double cams to #3 (an extra #2 could come in handy), and an optional #6 for pitch 3. Good gear and great rock throughout.

  1. 35m (17) Climb short ramp to chimney, then right crack up to easier ground. Splitter hand crack to the top of pitch. Cross short grassy ledge to gear belay in base of corner crack.

  2. 35m (19) The obvious splitter corner crack to ledge. Then a thought-provoking finger crack to big chossy ledge aka “Brunch Ledge”. Belay in left leaning crack a few metres right of corner.

  3. 30m (19) The steep corner crack (take care with gear). An intricate start leads to easier ground as you prepare yourself for a riveting finish. Belay in small cave under continuation of crack.

  4. 25m (16) Climb crack to next ledge system, and then link the final step to gain lunch ledge. Belay in crack on wall behind Lunch Ledge trail.

FFA: Rene Provis & Match, 21 Sep 2018

Trad 130m, 4
19 The West Face of the Mirrorball
1 19 25m
2 18 30m
3 17 20m
4 18 45m

Four pitch, bolted (carrots), slightly runout climb with epic views across the valley. Take 10 brackets. You can finish the route with an extra pitch by doing the confusingly named Mirrorball (21) pitch above Lunch Ledge.

Start: On outer left (NW) arete of the Mirrorball Pinnacle. Look for the line of bolts (carrots, take brackets).

  1. 25m (19) Up arete to ledge, with DBB.

  2. 30m (18) Up arete and face to chossy cave, left along ledge to high DBB.

  3. 20m (17) Up face to big ledge.

  4. 45m (18) Up face, to Lunch Ledge, moving right at 2nd ring. Pretty exposed.

FA: Peterson, Wilson & Law., 2000

Sport 120m, 4

Showing all 3 routes.

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