If you're planning an onsight, access per the dedicated Samarkand abseil route (see description) and take about 18 draws. If you plan to rap the route instead (slower, but you get to see what you're in for), you'll need a 130m rope. Your top anchor (DBB) is hidden 10m up and right of Samarkand's top anchor, behind grass tree. You will need a rope protector for the top edge and lots of quickdraws to clip in on the way down to stay in contact. Choosing a day with westerly breeze is recommended.
12m (24) 10m R of Samarkand. A bit of a goey "good morning!" move getting past the 2nd&third, then interesting balance features. Steeper than it first appears. 5 bolts. Ledge belay (DBB).
15m (28) Pull the lip, then balancy yet powerful moves past a few bolts, eventually easing to jugs and a small foot ledge for belay (DBB) in base of corner. 6 bolts.
32m (27) Monster corner - the money pitch! Weaves in and out of the corner following holds and avoiding blankness. When the corner ends, there’s still a disturbing amount of climbing to go. At least three or four long slings, or more, can minimise drag on this wandering journey. Belay on ledge (DBB). 15 bolts.
36m (25) The Trail Of Tears. Up through roof and the unique ‘limestone’ face above. Major ledge for belay (DBB). 16+ bolts.
25m (23) Corner and short wall to finish. Anchor behind grass tree up the hill. 8 bolts.
Certain pitches were freed individually earlier, but the first ascent was done in a continuous push.
