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Flying Blind Area

Climbing in this area is not permitted.

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Access issues

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Walter Berger & Steve Bennett, 1988

FA: Bruce Somerfield, Phil Robertson, Clare Robertson & Tony Sands, 1987

This was originally graded 17 as the FA was quite straight-forward on hand jams. Repeats found it quite a bit harder, maybe because they were laybacking?

FA: James McIntosh, Paul Woolger & Stuart Willis, 1987

Originally graded 17 (as was Chocolate Frog), so the grade has been bumped up by the same amount. Could someone please repeat both in the same day and provide feedback?! It is also believed that Peter Stebbins may have done a direct start into this line past a bolt, at grade 19. Confirmation of this would also be appreciated.

FA: Stuart Willis, James McIntosh & Paul Woolger, 1987

This is the direct start with BR into Chocolate Frog done with Andrew Stevens

FA: Pete Stebbins, Pete Stebbins, Andrew Stevens 16-6-91 & Andrew Stevens, 1991

Hard thin face moves past BRs onto sloping bulge

FA: Andrew Stevens & Pete Stebbins, 1991

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1983

Hard pumpy direct start (BR) into Gunga Din.

FA: Scott Camps, 1987

Start as for Flying Blind. Either stick clip the high 1st RB or place a small cam or nut in FB. Up FB for a few moves before a move L up onto the face and vague arete. Up this and make a spectacular move over the roof on jugs to the lower off.

FA: Matt Brooks, Oct 2017

Takes the line up the proudest section of the orange wall. Climb pumpy overhang to the roof, R a few moves, then pull up and traverse spectacularly back L along the lip of the roof, and up.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1983

Obvious jam cracks in wall 5m R of Flying Blind. Marked with a square.

FA: Michael Wust & C Stewart, 1983

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

Has some loose rock.

FA: Bruce Somerfield & Phil Benson, 1988

This looks quite ok! Starts next to chossy chimney and climbs a rising traverse R, leading into a great looking traverse line.

FA: Michael Wust & Kevin Lindorff, 1983

Never written up, but reportedly a route has been done up the beautiful wall halfway along the 'Cucumber Sandwich' traverse.

Start 15m R of the chossy chimney and immediately R of smooth orange wall. Up corner / arete, leading to a juggy chimney up high.

FA: Michael Wust & Kevin Lindorff, 1983

FA: Wayne Maher, Iain Sedgman & Heather Philips, 1985

Front of small buttress 5m R of Mongoose, straight up, finishing through small roof.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

FA: Wayne Maher & Iain Sedgman, 1985

Information needed

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 2 Jun
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