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Gun Buttress 🚫

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 54
  • Aka: Gunn Buttress

Climbing in this area is closed.

Seasonality

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Description

A steep little crag of strong lines tucked away below the trees underneath Sandinista Wall. This could be called Lindorff Crag as Kevin was involved in almost every one of these routes. His trademark hard grading and technical crack moves are a feature of this area. It's a shame that the best routes on this crag all feature an awkward tree scramble to get started. This is one of the only cliffs in this area that is suitable for top-roping, due to the easy top access, although some routes are too steep to toprope. Some excellent bouldering has been done on the left side. This place is protected from light rain and gets morning sun although the trees keep it generally shady for most of the day.

Access issues

There are CH sites along the overhangs of this cliff that require extra protections, and it's also close to the main tourist trail.

Approach

Easily approached by leaving the track 50m before the Sandinista Cliff and heading right on a well worn track (which heads to Anderson's bouldering area). 50m along this track the wall will be visible on the left. Almost all routes are marked with a small white painted initial. Descent for all climbs is down the right side via a small track. Routes are described left to right.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
Closed

Why did Kevin bother with this pathetic excuse for a bolted boulder problem? One crap bolt also scars what could have been an all trad crag.

Start: Towards the far left end of the cliff is an alcove with a large sandy boulder. This is the left leaning line marked with white paint.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1983

Closed

A chossy, vegetated and overhanging diagonal.

Start: 2m right of 'Loaded'. Marked.

FA: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff, 1983

Closed

More un-inspirational stuff.

Start: Start 5m right of 'Black Powder'.

FA: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff, 1985

Closed

One move wonder down low.

Start: The overhanging blocky crack 10m right of 'Buckshot'. Finish up the left leaning juggy crack to ledge.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Kevin Lindorff, 1985

Closed

Excellent climbing with a very technical finish. One of the only Scott Camps projects that he actually managed to get up!

FA: Scott Camps & Peter Griffen, 1988

Closed

It's short but desperate. One of the only true finger-cracks in the area.

Start: The overhanging thin crack 3m right of 'Crazy Da Must Sing' and in the centre of the crag. A large hold snapped off a few years ago, making it one grade harder, and giving the belayer a fair injury, but it could've killed him 30cm to the left.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

Closed

Steep, powerful and bloody awkward for gym bunnies.

Start: Starts a few metres right of 'Powder Monkey' on the right edge of ledge.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

Closed

Brutal boulder problem intro and easy finish.

Start: Starts beneath the left of the twin recessed corners which start halfway up the cliff on the big ledge just right of Karma-lites.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Wust, 1983

Closed
Closed

Thrutch fest!

Start: The right hand of the two corners.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1983

Closed
Closed

A total sandbag with a finish that is rather exciting.

Start: Starts 3m right of 'Kalashnikov'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

Closed

Short bouldery start which eases considerably in the upper half.

Start: Starts around 6m right of 'Primed'.

FA: Peter Martin, Gary Wills, Dick Evans & Peter Megans, 1988

Closed

A contrived and pointless bouldery start leads to a good variant finish to 'Greyhounds In Space'.

Start: Start 3m right of Greyhounds.

FA: Richard Kirk, Jean Marc Durand & Adam Darragh, 1989

Closed

Nice face route. A bit short.

Start: Start 4m left of 'Levitation' at far left end of wall.

FA: Graeme Smith & Martin Lama, 1992

Closed

Wickedly hard start. Thin wall special up tortoise shell rock.

Start: Marked. Goes up the middle of a small north facing wall that you pass on the left on your way into the Amphitheatre.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

Closed

Another pumpy thin face on excellent shell rock.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Levitation'. Marked.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1983

Closed

Squeezed in.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Airplay', just left of corner.

FA: Martin Lama & Graeme Smith, 1992

Closed

Short and ordinary.

Start: Start about 8m around right of 'Airplay' and 4m left of a wide scrubby corner.

FA: Melanie & James McIntosh, 1989

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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