Routes in Japan for selected grade

Eliminate.

Eliminate.

Climb over the overhang low on the wall and up the arête to finish.

Name translates as " Good Guy to go"

2 bolts + pitons

A nice slab to warmup on to the left of the front wall. A technical start that leads into a juggy, well protected finish.

Not quite as good as Armadillo, but good nonetheless. Name means round jug.

The name is Japanese for a "Tortoise-shaped scrubbing brush".

strait up

From the arête climb to the crack, then finish out on the left face.

グリーンウィンド

サマーアイズ

モノリス

Next crack to the left of Emily. Short overhang followed by a nice less-than-vertical hands/thin hands crack. Traverse left and deal with the tree or go straight up past the block. There is a bolt/chain anchor with rap rings above the tree. (5.9 in the Hyakuiwaba guidebook, 5.10a in the latest Rock & Snow topo)

Straight up the arete right of Diamond Hip. Crux is a long reach up near the top. Reaching around to the crack on the right reduces difficulty to 5.8 or so - go straight up!

On the left of とけいワニ with shared tree anchor with rope and carabiners already in place.

Short, bouldery climb. Walk up right of the Wonderland area, past one rock with a couple of routes on it, and this is on a seperate rock with two routes, one on each face. Abracadabra goes up the middle of the face, Zelda is on the right of the arete on the overhanging face.

Another thin edgy face climb, just right of Mazo Okesa. Given grade of 5.10a/b in guidebook.

Interesting route. Awkward start at the base of the crack directly under the tree, up and right back into the crack. Quite scary finish if you don't use the tree... I may well have mistranslated the name

To the right of Ali baba. A nice clean sport route, typical of the area - fingery with small footholds, well protected, delicate. Listed as 5.10a/b and that's probably about right.

Great 4 pitch sport route right up the middle of the main face directly through 2 overlaps and a roof. Crux is getting through the roof on P2 and its quite a hard 10a - but well protected. P2 could really do with re-bolting, there are some dodgy bolts and hangers there apart from the crux. Excellent climbing on clean rock, good exposure and views. Pity it doesn't top out, but given the rockfall danger to the busy path below, its probably a good idea.

Descent Options: Rap the route. You can do it with a single 60m rope, but if you drag a 2nd rope up you'll get down much faster.

Zig-Zag your way up following the line of least resistance.

The name translates as "A Place In The Sun"

The name translates as "Clown flakes"

Whirlpool capelin