Kazakhstan Guide

Follow the asphalt road to the right of Shymbulak ski resort, then continue on the single-track road until you reach massive rock formations on your left.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.172094, 77.114417

summary

Scenic waterfall over granite cliff with rock and ice climbing options

description

in Russian: http://steelinside.com/butakovka-climbing-guidebook/

approach

From Almaty, head south towards the Medeo (Ice stadium) using bus no. 29P towards Butakovka (Бутаковка).

At the final bus stop ("Ecopost"), further up the road, there is a lift gate, where you have to pay a 491 Tenge, an entrance fee into the park territory.

Keep following the road for another 2 – 3 km, and you will arrive at the car park at the end of asphalt road.

From there, follow the track up the valley along the river until its fork. Cross the small bridge into the left valley over a path of rough boulders until you reach Butakovka waterfall, where you arrive directly at the lower sector of the crag.

ethic

Contact Valera Alekseev before bolting.

history

Yuriy Gorbunov bolted The Pipe/ Труба and Right of the pipe/Справа от Трубы in 2007. Alexander Litovchenko bolted Whelp/Дракончик in 2014. The rest were bolted between 2014 - 2020 by Valera Alekseev.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.161920, 77.043720

summary

A handful of hard worthwhile routes close to the city.

description

More information at https://steelinside.com/aziaty-bolting-march/.

approach

Catch the number 12 bus to the "Ak Bulak" bus stop. From here, walk uphill and cross the bridge. Just after the bridge, there is a driveway and small building on the left side of the road.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.174339, 77.024164

description

Small outcrop just outside of Almaty.

This is a popular starting point for beginner climbers, therefore it's often packed like sardines on weekend days/holidays, making this cliff resemble a telegraph pole. Your best bet will be on weekdays.

The top of the cliff can be accessed via the path on the left.

There are several rebars on the top that can be and often are used by the majority of climbers at the crag as top rope anchors.

All routes can be climbed on trad gear and offer a good number of middle-grade climbs.

Routes are described from left to right.

approach

Bus number 12 will take you to the bus stop "ГЭС", from there, cross the road and walk downhill past through the concrete dam. The cliff will be on your right.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.107178, 77.076660

summary

walls and bouldering in the vicinity of the Alplager

description

http://steelinside.com/skalolazanie-na-tuyuk-su-utmy-gorbunova/ (in Russian)

maps: http://climb.tomsk.ru/viewtopic.php?f=6&p=9352&t=56&ddos_guard_attempt=1

topo: http://www.risk.ru/blog/1202

description

Picturesque reservoir in the mountains above almaty

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.062566, 77.000221

summary

Dozens of sport and trad routes at the banks of Ili River.

description

Somewhere in the flat steppe, the rock-addicted may find a relief: Tamgaly-Tas, some of the sights in Almaty's surrounding, besides a Buddha-rock painting and a yearly folk-music festival boast some diverse rocky outcrops.

The climbing varies from slabs, face to some cracks. Pro is as diverse - there are mostly modern sport routes, although there are also some trad routes. In some places there are still old bolts with homemade hangers, which should be avoided. Wearing a helmet is recommended, as the rock tends to shed flakes even where it looks quite solid.

Tamgaly-Tas is comfortable when the weather is good, but hell (or Hoth) in the wrong conditions. The season runs from March to mid-May, and then again from mid-September to November. Summer is considered too hot to climb, and there are clouds of bloodthirsty insects. The air tends to be still, so it's lovely in the sun in cooler weather, but absolutely stifling when the weather's warm. Conversely, humidity is low, so the shade is comfortable in warmer weather. Luckily there are areas facing every direction, so you can always find somewhere in the shade or sun to climb.

Almost all the recent development has been done by Kirill Belotserkovsky, who has bolted or rebolted almost a hundred routes. Anyone who has enjoyed climbing at Tamgaly-Tas is encouraged to contribute the bolting fund.

Kirill has also made a detailed guidebook.

access issues

A large sandy patch normally forms on the usual access road at (44.083491, 77.022340), about 5km from the crag. With a 2wd, you should consider taking one of the alternate roads.

There is a gate at the entrance to the climbing area. As of 2020 the wardens don't seem to mind if you just walk through and climb. They will, however, charge a fee if you drive in, or camp inside the fence.

approach

Drive from Almaty to Qapshagai (43.889201, 77.070354), continue North over the dam and Ili river for 8 km. At the interchange (43.928013, 77.143952) turn North (left) towards Bakhbaty. After 15 km (44.095517, 77.065609) turn West (left) onto a dirt road (there is a small sign). Take the system of parallel paths to the west towards the river valley and follow it upstream until you spot the rocks. This route is normally fine with a 2WD if you drive carefully (see "Access issues").

There are several other paths to the river, for example by turning off the highway earlier (44.027847, 77.093741). These might be better for a 2WD. It seems that despite the state of the roads, many tourists seem to manage with 2WDs.

GPS track.

where to stay

People pitch their tents in the surroundings. Carry out all rubbish and use a gas stove. There is a toilet in the middle of Gavan.

ethic

There were some dodgy ethics in the past (chipped and glued holds), but the crag is now being developed as a modern sport crag, with respect for trad lines.

There is still plenty of space on Tamgaly-Tas rocks. There is a place for sport routes, multipitches, and trad lines. If you live or travel in the area and decide to put a route:

Use best materials available, i.e. stainless steel glue-in bolts and appropriate glue (Hilti Hit RE-500, Hilty Hit HY-200 or similar). The second option—expansion stainless steel bolts. If you don’t have access to suitable gear, please don’t bolt anything.
Contact the locals - that is Kirill Belotserkovsky on Facebook or at kirill@steelinside.com - to discuss a sector and a line.
Don’t bolt obvious cracks! Cracks could be done on gear, so consider doing them in the best style you (or those stronger than you) can.

If you don’t want to deal with drills, dust, and glue but want to join the process of development of the area, donate some money. One route costs approx $100, but you don’t need to transfer all the sum. Even a small donation will allow the locals to buy more bolts and set more safe routes.

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 43.231738, 76.976591

description

Commercial climbing wall in Kök-Töbe amusement park with a good view over Almaty.

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 43.129579, 77.081477

description

Commercial climbing wall at the top station of the first Shymbulak gondola.

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 43.262710, 76.969998

description

Small covered boulder block in the Central Park for Culture and Leisure.

description

More informations: https://almatycentralpark.kz/скалодром-шабыт/

summary

Modern bouldering gym in a convenient location.

description

Modern bouldering gym with a good vibe and decent routesetting. Routes are re-set quite often. The owners speak English and are very friendly. Located at Abay, 44 (Sports Palace named after B. Sholak, entrance from Baitursynov side). Cost: 2000 KZT for casual visit or 15000 KZT per month.

Websites: https://skalodrom.kz/ https://www.facebook.com/skalaboulder/

summary

Climbing gym with a good lead wall and a large bouldering section.

description

Fairly large climbing gym. There is a medium bouldering area with a moon board, and also a lead wall that is very tall. Routes don't seem to be re-set very often, but the setting is good and there is a range of grades. The staff are helpful and will loan lead ropes or belay devices. There is also speed climbing if you like that.

Address: Khan-Tengri microdistrict, 191

Websites: https://www.facebook.com/skalaclub/ http://skalaclub.kz/

Summary:

Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 47.417381, 74.792918

summary

Perfect cracks in the middle of nowhere in Kazakhstan.

where to stay

Wild camping; Few basic hostels around;

ethic

No bolts, please.

history

First climbed in 2009 by Dmitri Salnikov and friends from Tomsk. Since then, only one other big party from Russia visited the area. At the end of September 2020 Olga Belotserkovskaya, Valera Alekseev, Zhora Berezikov, Pavel Gryaznov, Camille London and Kirill Belotserkovskiy estabslished some new climbs and reported about the trip via planetmountain.com.

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 47.432885, 74.806895

Summary:

Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 47.438848, 74.827524

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 47.441560, 74.839247

Summary:

Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 47.450140, 74.803708