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It-Tirxija Wall

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 2

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Repubblika ta’ Malta

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Ethic inherited from Repubblika ta’ Malta

Don't bolt here. There is a well established climbing community. If you seek to add routes contact either the Malta Climbing Club (UIAA affiliated) or the Malta Rock Climbing Club in Malta, or Stevie Haston in Gozo. All new routes are now being equipped with titanium bolts and anchors.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 E2 5a
2 S 4a

1 - 50m 5a. Climb the shallow groove just right of the overhangs. At the black bulge step left then traverse left across black slabs to solid, curvy rock on the arete. Up this sensationally for 10m. Step left around the arete with your hands level with a shelf. Once round step back right to the arete above. Avoid the bulge by another step left. Up sharp grey slabs to a ledge. 2 - 20m 4a. Up easy grey slabs to the terrace above Pilar Box Descent

A direct on The Division Bell. Takes the steep crack directly above the black slabs. Nuts about Rock 7 size are crucial

1 E2/3 5c
2 S 4a

Belay as for The Division Bell, 6m right of the star shaped hole.

50m 5c. Up easy angled rock just right of the slight groove to a white bulge at 10m. Over to follow a rightward ramp under a rightward leaning overhang. Go up left to a fig tree then right to an awkward blunt arete, then a thread at the righthand end of a bulge. Take the difficult crack to the right then the wall left of a bush.

20m 4a. Up easy slabs above

Starting 20m right along the shelf from the edge of the buttress, take an indefinite line up to a steep groove and walls above. Up slabs, easily at first, to a short groove. Continue directly up the juggy overhanging wall, thread, then the steep, less endowed wall above to a small ledge. Climb in the same line on sharp rock to finish up a steep chimney right of a long diagonal crack.

1 5a
2 E3 5b
3 4a

7m right of Crossly Notes is a line up the vague white groove left of a steep red central pillar capped by a prow. Start 30m along the shelf just up and left of a vegetated ledge. Surprising holds.

20m 5a. Go diagonally left up the slabs to below the white groove. Awkward moves up the groove. Exit right across ledges to a 2 piton and nut belay.

40 5b. Traverse to the left end of the ledges. Bold moves lead up and left on black rock to a hole, 2 threads. Up and left again across a black wall, piton. After 3m move to regain the groove and improving holds (and gear), to under a leftward leaning overlap. After 3m traverse diagonally left to finish up a stragely featured wall right of a vegetated corner. Belay from cracks below easy slabs in the left side of the pillar above a prow.

20m 4a. Easy slabs trending as far right as you can to thread belays at a ledge. Magnificent!

1 5a
2 E3 5c
3 4b

A brilliant route taking the red, barrel shaped wall and the prow above direct, high in the grade. Starts as for Wish You Were Here?.

1 - 20m 5a. The slabs and white groove as for WYWH to the 2 piton and nut belay on the ledge.

2 - 35m 5c. Go straight over the bulge above (friend 3 or near useful). Step right with difficulty. Up and left to small nuts, traverse right delicately to near the right edge of the buttress. Continue up for 10m until you can gain the right end of a handrail, thread, leading up and left to a short corner crack under the prow. Good hidden holds and nut protection lead to an 'out of this world' stance on the lip of the prow. Nut belays up and left.

3 20m 4b. To the top of the pillar and diagonally right across easy slabs to thread belays above the ledge.

1 E2 5a
2 E2 5a
3 4b

Starts 35m along a shelf to the right of the buttress edge with a window in below a slabby wall and just right of a grassy ledge.

1 - 20m 5a. Up the easy grey slab, then take the short steeper wall up left to a narrow ledge and the 2 piton belay on WYWH.

2 - 32m 5a. Skirt to the right of the bulging wall keeping just left of the vegetation until moves up and right gain a vegetated alcove below a small roof. Threads left and right. Move right above the roff then back left on black rock (spike runners), until below a blind crack and fault leading diagonally left. Follow this and the wall above keeping right of a short vegetated corner. Step left to a stance at the top of the pillar above the prow.

3 - 20m 4b. Diagonally right up slabs to (threads) above the ledge.

1 4a
2 S 4c
3 4a
4 4a

The exit for Continuation WallLow Level and Central Traverses. It is an adventure more than a climb! Can also be used as a descent - fishermen have been doing it for centuries! Start at the large platform below Bamboo Ledge

1 - 4a. Walk righ to Pillar Box Cave Slab, up this for 10m to Bamboo Ledge.

2 - 4c. Cross PBC Slab, go up and right to a steel bollard and a broken easy ramp leading right to the vegetated bay of PBC.

3 - 4a. Walk into and up the floor and back narrows of the cave, scramble up the righthand wall and through the pillar-box.

4 - 4a. Follow cut holds up the prow, left of the small terrace.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Alden, Jeffery Camilleri, and Stevie Hasten

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9789995706197

A comprehensive guidebook describing the sport climbing found on the Maltese Islands of Malta and Gozo, covering 21 crags and over 500 fully bolted sport routes, across a wide range of grades up to F8c+.

Author(s): J. Codling, A. Warrington & R. Abela

Date: 2022

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 2 Jun
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