A brilliant route taking the red, barrel shaped wall and the prow above direct, high in the grade. Starts as for Wish You Were Here?.
1 - 20m 5a. The slabs and white groove as for WYWH to the 2 piton and nut belay on the ledge.
2 - 35m 5c. Go straight over the bulge above (friend 3 or near useful). Step right with difficulty. Up and left to small nuts, traverse right delicately to near the right edge of the buttress. Continue up for 10m until you can gain the right end of a handrail, thread, leading up and left to a short corner crack under the prow. Good hidden holds and nut protection lead to an 'out of this world' stance on the lip of the prow. Nut belays up and left.
3 20m 4b. To the top of the pillar and diagonally right across easy slabs to thread belays above the ledge.
There is no known route history.
5a, E3 5c, 4b | Assigned grade |
Don't bolt here. There is a well established climbing community. If you seek to add routes contact either the Malta Climbing Club (UIAA affiliated) or the Malta Rock Climbing Club in Malta, or Stevie Haston in Gozo. All new routes are now being equipped with titanium bolts and anchors.
Author(s): Simon Alden, Jeffery Camilleri, and Stevie Hasten
Date: 2013
ISBN: 9789995706197
A comprehensive guidebook describing the sport climbing found on the Maltese Islands of Malta and Gozo, covering 21 crags and over 500 fully bolted sport routes, across a wide range of grades up to F8c+.
Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing
Login to see the timeline!