Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Gozo Wied il-Mielaħ Wied il-Mielaħ Arch | |||||
6b | Shipping Bollards
On the west face. | 12m | |||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Taurus Wall | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ Biċċa Kejk (Piece of Cake)
Climb the weird pillar and exit above the left hand stalagtite or direct finish at 6a | 18m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5b | Tales of Ordinary Madness
Up the same weird pillar, exiting above the right hand stalagtite. | 18m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | Taurus
Bulges directly below the split grey roof, avoiding the last bulge by stepping right and then back left. Jugs on the left wall help you past the overhanging wide crack. | 18m | |||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Dream Walls | |||||
6b | ★★ A Pocket full of Poses
| 25m, 7 | |||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Champagne Walls | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | Mama's Dirty Girls
The left side of the thin arete finishing up the groove. Loose. | 28m | |||
6b | The March of Folly
| 27m | |||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Freedom Walls | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | Charge
Up the column and left past pockets to the horizontal break, up past an overhang and then the centre of the impending wall above | 12m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | Beyond the Call of Duty
Start at the column and take the bulging wall directly to the top | 12m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | Foreign Interference
The rib just right of Freedom, taking the centre of the buttress past flakes then over a bulge using slopers | 18m | |||
Gozo San Blas Sopu Tower Cliffs | |||||
6b | Wax Fiend
| 22m | |||
Gozo San Blas Chalice of Malice Chalice of Malice Alley | |||||
6b | A View to the Exterior
| 15m | |||
Gozo San Blas Chalice of Malice Chalice of Malice Gully | |||||
6b | Shock Therapy
| 20m | |||
Gozo Dahlet Qorrot White Tower | |||||
6b | ★★★ Smack the Crack
| 25m | |||
Gozo Wied ix-Xlendi Vine Cave | |||||
6b | ★★ Turn 84
| 22m | |||
6b | Who Knows
| 18m | |||
Gozo Wied ix-Xlendi Bamboo Jungle | |||||
6b | ★ Rock DJ
| 12m, 4 | |||
Gozo Black Slabs | |||||
6b | ★★ Le Tactic du Gendarme
| 8m | |||
6b | ★ Queenie
| 20m | |||
6b | ★★★ Baldrick
| 16m | |||
6b | ★ Black Adler
Increasingly hard. Technical on the upper slab. | 15m | |||
Gozo The Underworld | |||||
6b | ★★★ Gift of Small Things
| 40m | |||
Malta Għar Ħasan Wied Ħasan Bouldering | |||||
V2 | Cuts Both Ways
The diagonal crack through the overhang just right. FA: John Codling, 1999 | ||||
V2 | Pointbreak
Using the slot for the right, gain the black flowstone with the left and then the good flat hold above. Continue up. FA: Jeffrey Camilleri, 1999 | ||||
V2 | Pointfive
The easiest combination, from the slot with your right gain the flat hold direct with your left. Push for a jug high right. Slap up left. FA: John Codling, 1999 | ||||
V2 | Falls to Climb
Get the high jug via moves to the right of the slot FA: Jeffrey Camilleri, 1999 | ||||
V2 | The Leopard
Using hidden holds in a horizontal break. Dyno to a good jug up and left. | ||||
V1 | Up
Through the roof ion the centre. FA: John Moulding, 1999 | ||||
Malta Għar Ħasan Wied Ħasan Seacliffs | |||||
6b DWS_S:S1 | Lefty
Traverse left to just short of the large cave. Climb up and left via the easiest line to the top. FA: Nell Doust, 1999 | 40m | |||
Malta Wied Żnuber | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | ★★ Minato
Climb up to a thin crack veering to the left. Follow its general direction through a sparse collection of good holds before exiting up. FA: William Hicklin | 16m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | Rokna
Climb from a corner at the bottom of the valley to a good ledge. Continue up a small overhang and then straight up. | 16m | |||
Malta Wied Bassasa Il-Bajtra | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ Leon Odelot Factum Est
| 22m | |||
Malta Wied Bassasa Il-Minkba | |||||
{UK} E2 UKT:5b | ★ Goliath
| 30m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5b | ★★★ Never as Good as the 1st Time
| 32m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | Fat Old Sun
| 32m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5b | ★ The NOvember of Life
| 35m | |||
Malta Blieqa | |||||
6b | North Star
| 21m | |||
Malta It-Tirxija Continuation Wall | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ Continuation Wall
1
E1 5a
30m
2
E1 5b
26m
3
E1 5b
26m
P1 - Ascend through the weakness in the overhangs. Climb the slab above aiming for its top left side. P2 - Up the centre of the steeper slab above. Continue up with difficulty to a narrow ledge (a hanging plaque commemorates the 1st and 2nd ascents). Sign the guest book! P3 - Continue up the exposed slab with good moves and exposure to the top. FA: Corporal Deacon R.M., 1953 NA: C.N. Watson & J.D. Graham, 1967 | 82m, 3 | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5b | Marianne's Faithful Cigarette
1
E1 5a
50m
2
E2 5b
50m
3
S 4a
15m
| 120m, 3 | |||
Malta It-Tirxija It-Tirxija Wall | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:5b | Wish You Were Here?
1
5a
2
E3 5b
3
4a
7m right of Crossly Notes is a line up the vague white groove left of a steep red central pillar capped by a prow. Start 30m along the shelf just up and left of a vegetated ledge. Surprising holds. 20m 5a. Go diagonally left up the slabs to below the white groove. Awkward moves up the groove. Exit right across ledges to a 2 piton and nut belay. 40 5b. Traverse to the left end of the ledges. Bold moves lead up and left on black rock to a hole, 2 threads. Up and left again across a black wall, piton. After 3m move to regain the groove and improving holds (and gear), to under a leftward leaning overlap. After 3m traverse diagonally left to finish up a stragely featured wall right of a vegetated corner. Belay from cracks below easy slabs in the left side of the pillar above a prow. 20m 4a. Easy slabs trending as far right as you can to thread belays at a ledge. Magnificent! | 80m, 3 | |||
Malta Garden of Eden Spooky Cave (Għar Tal-Munqar) | |||||
6b | Unknown
Furthest left route, outside the cave. | 11m | |||
Malta Garden of Eden Għar Il-Barbaġann | |||||
6b | ★★ Tufa fis-Sod
| 18m | |||
Malta Garden of Eden Fearless Cave | |||||
6b | ★ Where There's A Will
Set: Nicola Gatti, Feb 2024 | 18m, 6 | |||
Malta Garden of Eden Fearless Wall | |||||
6b | Microphallus
| ||||
6b | Paloma
| ||||
Malta Wied Babu Diamond Buttress | |||||
6b | ★★ Man Saturday
| 22m | |||
6b | Hazy Shade of Winder
| 22m | |||
Malta Wied Babu Il-Blata ta' Għanċula | |||||
V1 | Blackhead
| 6m | |||
Malta Wied Babu The Flying Arête | |||||
{UK} HVS UKT:5b | ★★★ Nimrod
FA: Royal Marine Commandos, 1966 | 24m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5b | ★★ Babu Invasion
FA: Andrew Warrington, 2003 | 25m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ Ariel / Vulcan
Brilliant lay-backing up the right side of the perched flake, starting at a shallow gully right of the dry stone wall, finishing up the thin diagonal crack. FA: Simon Alden | 25m | |||
Malta Wied Babu West Side Story | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | Caravaggio
| 23m | |||
Malta Blue Grotto Promontory Red Wall | |||||
6b | ★★★ Prism | 50m, 3 | |||
6b | ★★★ Greek Odyssey
1
6a
18m
2
6a+
12m
3
6b
25m
1st pitch: Low level traverse 2nd pitch: Slight overhang 3rd Pitch: Traverse and roof | 55m, 3 | |||
Malta Blue Grotto Promontory Blue Wall | |||||
{UK} E2 UKT:5b | ★★ Hello Boys
From the ledge diagonally left up the darkly coloured wall to a crack, (where you'll find an old piton). Up to a sloping ledge then the wall above. Move left to a crack in the rib. Up this until 5m below the top you can follow the diagonal crack heading right to finish. FA: Kevin Glass, 1983 | 35m | |||
Malta Ħamrija Tower Cobra Cave | |||||
6b | ★★ Equinox
FA: Stephen Farrugia, 2014 | ||||
6b | ★★★ Solstice
FA: James Herrera, 2014 | ||||
6b/b+ | Panamademonium
| ||||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Twin Caves | |||||
{UK} HVS UKT:5b | ★★ Micro-Gem
Climb the steep flake crack on the right side of the cave past an old piton trending left. Finish up the excellent crack and wall above. | 12m | |||
6b | ★★ Scoop and Arête
| 24m | |||
{UK} HVS UKT:5b | ★ Zonker
Climb awkwardly out of the back of the recess below Snowman, then finish up the wall trending right | 25m | |||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Learning to Fly Cave | |||||
6b | ★★★ Ghengis Can't
| 15m | |||
6b | ★★★ Altar of Stone
| 6m | |||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Terry's Cave | |||||
6b | Henry
| 18m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5b | Last on the Bus
| 30m | |||
6b | ★★★ Granny's Seat
Start 3m right of LDLH. Up and trend right to shared finish with FOTB. | 18m | |||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Quarry steps | |||||
6b | ★★ 2 Blind Mice
FA: n. gatti & C. pontt | 28m, 10 | |||
6b | ★ Summer Thyme
| 28m | |||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Corona Wall | |||||
6b | ★ Alpha Variant
FA: Nicola Gatti, 19 Mar 2023 | 25m, 10 | |||
6b | ★★ Covid Rising
| 20m, 7 | |||
6b | ★★ AstraZeneca
| 15m, 5 | |||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Magħlaq Cave | |||||
{UK} E2 UKT:5b | Bandits, 11 O'Clock
| 16m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5b | ME 262
| 16m | |||
Malta Xaqqa | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | The Loneliness of the Long Distance Runner
Start right of centre of the gap in the skyline overhangs. Go directly up the slab. Cross a horizontal break, then finish up the stained slab passing the overhangs on your right. | 22m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5b | The Problem
Takes the centre of the slab below the gap in the skyline overhangs. Bold finish. | 21m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | No Bottle for Timmy
Step off a pointed brown flake and gain horizontal cracks. Trend past some rugosities. Go up to another horizontal break. Finish as for Island Games | 22m | |||
Malta Wied Qirda Broken Buttress | |||||
{UK} HVS UKT:5b | Wild Boys
| 18m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | Pastizzi Connection
| 22m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | ★ Crackers
| 22m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5b | ★ Cracking up
Re-evaluated today with Andy Warrington for sure an E2 | 22m | |||
Malta Wied Qirda Sphinx Buttress | |||||
6b | ★★ Inscrutable Smile
| 18m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | ★★ Black Spasm
| 18m | |||
Malta Wied Qirda Grey Slabs Area | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:5b | Shake a Leg
Follow the corner moving left across a slab below a bush to gain a ramp. The bulge above to gain a crack constitutes the crux. Finish by traversing right past a nose to easier ground. If you are not imaginative in placing gear the grade will feel harder. | 22m | |||
{UK} E2/3 UKT:5b | Sparky
The grey slabs to the right of CTTC | 30m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East Villa Crag | |||||
{UK} VS UKT:5b | Slanting Buttress Direct
The concrete filled groove on the right. Delicate and thin to start but gets progressively easier | 12m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East The Lurcher Cave | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b/c | Caqlembuta
Climb the central pillar moving right to a niche. Finish right up the V-gap in the overhangs | 6m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East The Gape Cave | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b/c | Black Sweat
The overhanging grey corner. Awkward at best | 8m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East Practice Point | |||||
{UK} V1 | ★★ Practice Roof One
The short, sharp overhang. | 4m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East Behind the Wall | |||||
{UK} HVS UKT:5b | ★ Temptation
Pockets just left of Birds Nest Crack. | 6m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | ★ Engagement
Just to the right of Razor crack, climb the whitish streak on the left side of the grey wall. | 8m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | Disengagement
The bulge at the righthand end of the wall and above the start of the approach traverse | 8m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faħam West Dam Crag | |||||
{UK} HVS UKT:5b | ★★ Marmalade
The lefthand thin crack line right of the scoop with an awkward move to gain a ledge at half height. Step right to finish | 14m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faħam West Ċikka | |||||
{UK} E1 FB:5B | ★★ Wafer Wall
Boulder up the lefthand edge of the hollow on small, positive holds | 8m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Crazy Horse Cave | |||||
{UK} HVS UKT:5b | ★ Face-off
| 12m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | ★★ Bimbo Maniac
| 12m | |||
V1 | Guillotine
| 5m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Anġlu Celebration Area | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | Hasty Exit
A small brown overhang left of the alcove direct | 12m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Anġlu Stairway to Heaven | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | Stunts to Cuff
| 14m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Anġlu Hangover Area | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:5b | Turning Point
The left arete of the alcove, starting at a stalactite. Climb left of the thick black streak | 9m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Crucifix Cave | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b | Honeycomb Wall
| 19m |