Routes in Malta for selected grade

From the top of the middle boulder, take the bulge on the left and climb the wall to the left of the caves.

Half a metre right of the crack. Start using a mono with the right.

One and a half metres right of the crack. Start using the 90* flake and two-finger pocket with the right.

Traverse a little further left to a little cave you can crouch in. Step right and up the vague left arete of the groove on Waddy using pockets. Over the bulge to a large, friendly, diagonal flake. Climb this for a move, continue direct on pockets. Hard moves past a sloper lead to improving pockets and the top

Start climbing on loose rock up until you reach a ledge a third of the way up. Pro- tection is useless up to this point. Continue on the overhang diagonally to the right up until you reach a resting position in a hole about two thirds of the way up. Climb right, out of the hole. There are a couple of good slings as protection, however placing them will drain your energy.

2m right of CO. Up past cool features to ledge, then out roof to anchor.

A direct on The Division Bell. Takes the steep crack directly above the black slabs. Nuts about Rock 7 size are crucial

Starting from a gorse filled ledge, up the slab and thin curving crack to the hanging piton. Desperately left into the sloping groove. Finish more easily up the upper slabs.

Direct up the centre of the Blue Wall, with an independent start from the ledges. Up past an insitu thread(!) then follow the faint groove directly past a piton. Thin and exposed but brilliant.

Directly up from the left side of the ledges past good jugs at 5m. Continue up to a good wire placement then traverse 3m right to two small sloping ledges. Make a hard move to get your feet onto the first one and hands on the second (wire runner), step down and right to a thin diagonal crack. Make a move up then reach right for a good hold and runner in the next crack-line. Follow this till beneath the final leaning wall. Move up to a horizontal crack and finish strenuously slightly right.

The smooth scoop on the right wall of the cave. Up to the thread then swing right and up the crack and wall more delicately

Up and left through roof. Shared finish with GS.

The smooth bulging white slab, starting just left of the crystallized rugosity to finish at a piton.

Delicate grey slabs 6m left of the crack, no gear on crux

Start below a scoop at the righthand end of the wall above the shelf, up this to a t then left on big pockets to the top.

Up the crescent but reach for the rat-hole and exist direct

The bulge just right, then a black streak in a corner scoop.

Up the black streak

Direct start variant to Dark Ways

Crazy Toledan to the first anchor.