Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall | |||||
12 | Ckinothe
Long traverse. Start: As for 'Ckinell' to gain Melville's Cave. Step right and traverse under the overhangs all the way to 'The Ghost Of Melville'. Meander right just above second cave, then up. FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970 | 52m | |||
12 | Horse Drawn
Start 5m right of Melville's Cave. Up wall and through cruxy overhang. FA: Peter Martin & Ian Howe, 1980 | 20m | |||
12 | Big Dog's Cock
Presumably this climbs just R of the corner taken by 'The Ghost Of Melville'... but the write-up doesn't say. Start: R of 'Hangman'. Up slab, keeping right of corner to big pockets, over tricky bulge then directly up and through roof to top. FA: Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Merilyn Reynolds, Michael Hartman, Rhonda & Emil, 1996 | 28m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | |||||
12 | What Have the Romans Done for Us?
The provided description is as follows: "Offwidth crack on left side of main nose of 'Colosseum Wall'. Not necessarily that new!" This sounds like it should be near 'Castration'. But how an 8m route could be in this vicinity is a bit baffling. Also it sounds like it might be left of 'Castration', but that area is already pretty packed with routes and they're well harder than grade 12. So, an improved description of this would be nice. FA: FRA Biggus Dickus, 1996 | 8m | |||
12 | Welease Wodger
I assume its the grey wall between The Martyr wall and the Welease Witchard wall. FA: Graeme "Chapman" Jones & Eric "Idle" Jones, 1996 | 15m | |||
12 | Welease Witchard
5m right of 'Welease Wodger' is a small buttress. This takes scrappy line up left. FA: Smith & Paul Hoskins, 1996 | 15m | |||
12 | Incontinentia Buttocks
The jam crack 10m right of 'People Called Romans, They Go The 'Ouse'. FA: Biggus Dickus, 1996 | 8m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls | |||||
12 | Left Hand Variant
Big L-facing corner with an attractive flake-crack in excellent orange rock. At a length of only 24m, the original probably finished at the ledge at the top of the left-facing corner/flake, and walked off left past the base of 'Bermuda Triangle'. However, it seems fairly obvious to do a second pitch up the short corner just left, then step right and up the orange crack above (this is shown in the topo). Start: Start ~50m R of BT. FA: Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1977 | 24m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully | |||||
12 | What's My Motivation
Up to cracks and up to the ledge below 'Urban Sprawl'. Start: Start: On the left of the entrance to 'Hunger' 'Gully' is twin cracks through a shallow prow. FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins., 1995 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully Upper Hunger | |||||
12 | Nempnett Thrubwell
Start: Opposite VIMH. FA: Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet & Greg Pritchard, 1999 | 25m | |||
12 | Grope Lane
If you want to know the actual name they gave it - which would make even Nowra climbers blush - you'll have to ask them yourself. Start: 2m right of Nempnett Thrubwell. Up following faint line to top. FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 1999 | 25m | |||
12 | Dance of the Flaming Anus
| 10m | |||
12 | Uncle Fistula
| 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks | |||||
12 | ★ Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding
Up the hanging block just L of the hole, then L leaning groove. Start: Start on the R side of the crag. FA: Fran Holland & Al Proudfoot, 1989 | 14m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Serious Young Lizards Wall | |||||
12 | Pied Piper
Main face of pinnacle about 15 metres left of Serious Young Lizrds. Grade is a wild guess as none was given. FA: Bert Levy, 1998 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Marx Wall | |||||
12 | Groucho
Line 1m R of Harpo (blinkers required). FA: Paul Badenoch, 5 Aug 2019 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area | |||||
12 | ★ Clytemnaestra
The slick chimney between the Iphigenia Buttress and the Clytemnaestra Buttress. FA: Ian Speedie & Mike Stone, 1964 | 45m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks | |||||
12 | Laughing Stock
The L-facing corner, curving L at the end. Start: Find this as described above. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986 | 12m | |||
12 | Breeding Stock
The corner. Start: Start at the R end of Stockyard Wall. FA: Greg Pritchard & Pual Hoskins, 1995 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle | |||||
12 | Castrati
The arete. Start at the second last (and highest) pinnacle near the top of Organ Pipes Gully. FA: Dennis Kemp & Dave Mudie, 1987 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | |||||
12 | Fugue
Another gully. FA: Bernie Lyons & Steve Craddock., 1965 | 63m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | |||||
12 | Bag Pipes
A pointless variation on Bass Clef. Up Bass Clef to the chimney, step left and up the juggy arete just left of the chimney until able to bridge into the prominent line on the right wall of the chimney. Up this line then step right to the Tremulo bolts. FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 15 Jul 2017 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area | |||||
12 | Shit View
Worthless. Starts 2m left of Great View. Up corner stepping right into Great View at top to avoid loose blocks. FA: Hoskins & Pritchard., 1995 | 15m | |||
12 | Great View
Start: Takes the east facing prow of 'Operation Leo' buttress. FA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Smith, 1995 | 15m | |||
12 | Keeping the Tailend Off Strike
There's probably a smutty double entendre here. Start on the end of the wall right of Doddle. The little corner then step right at top onto wee slab. FA: Pritchard, Lattanzio & Hoskins, 1995 | 15m | |||
12 | Mr. Blobby
Start: The left most line. FA: Hoskins, Lattanzio & Pritchard, 1995 | 8m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam | |||||
12 | Rush
The easy line just left of Wayne Gretsky. FA: Richard Smith, Eric Laidlaw & Greg Pritchard, 2001 | 15m | |||
12 | With an F!
The arete left of Duck Off. FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 2000 | 18m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Coyote Wall | |||||
12 | ★ Dhole
Up C for 5m then R into the clean corner, with a bulge and then nice laybacking. Start: Start as for C. FA: Digby Gotts & Peter Watling, 1970 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||
12 | Please Be Kind
Doddle up. Start: Start 1m L of MSaS. FA: Allen Hope & Bill Andrews, 2000 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Pritikin Wall | |||||
12 | Channel Vision
The central crack. Start: Start in the middle of Pritikin Wall. FA: Robin Miller & solo, 1982 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | |||||
12 | A Little Ray of Sunshine
The pinnacle behind this has been dubbed Jeff Kennett's Buttocks. Line up left end of wall. FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997 | 10m | |||
12 | Lloyd Williams' Nose
Up Jeff's Buttocks. The leftmost of two obvious cracks. FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Shattered Buttress | |||||
12 | Mortality
Is an anagram of Tim Taylor. Start: At the right hand side of The Dead Zone Wall left of and below a big loose flake. Pull up and onto flake. Yard on it and stand up on it. Enjoy the finish. FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Past Present Buttress | |||||
12 | Past & Present
This climb is on the north east face of the buttress. Climb the middle of the face. FA: Pete Holmes & Mike Totterdell, 2012 | 11m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | |||||
12 | ★ Zorro
The crack up the front. Start: Start at a small outcrop just L of the main 'Charity' Wall face. FA: Mike & Jenny Ashton, 1987 | 12m | |||
12 | ★ Faith
Up the thin crack, with a small overhang halfway. Start: Start 6m R of Hope. FA: Jerry Grandage & Rob Taylor, 1968 | 18m | |||
12 | Prudity
Up the L-facing corner. Start: Start just R of a chimney which is on the R side of a mossy wall to the R of F. FA: Ray Lassman & Keith Lockwood, 1981 | 18m | |||
12 | ★ Treachery
The groove then directly over the bulge. Start: Start at the next line R of P. FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 1981 | 18m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | |||||
12 | Humpty Dumpty
Slab and bulge right of SG. Finish through centre of upper bulge. FA: Keith Lockwood | 18m | |||
12 | ★ Pure and Simple
Supposed to have a crack, but doesn't! 6m left of FOTR, 1m left of diagonal seam of Flying Foxes, behind a cherry ballart. Up wall, then vague juggy corner. Tricky down low. Was graded 8! FA: Bruce & Rod Sutherland, 1984 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | |||||
12 | ★ Eat Your Greens
Up short right-facing corner and deep line right of Greenfingers. Near the top, veer left across the wall to the rap station. Originally graded 10 by Noddy. FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 15 Dec 2015 | 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||
12 | ★ Josie's Climb
Start at the top left end of the wall, 3m R of the major chimney (Red Parrot Chasm - described on the Reaper Buttress page).
First pitch/rap off point is a little longer than the 25m mentioned in the 2008 Arapiles Selected Climbs guidebook. A 60m rope still easily touches ground though. FA: Josie Ley & late 80s, 2000 | 50m, 2 | |||
12 | ★ Native Companion
Good fun with fairly good protection. Start 12m R of Subliminal Cut, just right of the large block leaning against the cliff, or under the block itself. Up the wall past the right side of the block. Smooth slab, crux, from ledge on top of the block (there is a wire but short people will have to get up to it) then easier ground up line of least resistance to the headwall. Step left and climb diagonally left to the rap anchors. FA: Keith Lockwood & Sonia Jones, 1989 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | |||||
12 | Troglodytes
This is an easier version of The Catacombs. A pretty shady climb.
FA: Steve Findlay & Keith Lockwood, 4 Mar 2017 | 120m, 4 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||
12 | ★★ Dunes
1
30m
2
25m
3
12
22m
4
23m
This is the original version. Dunes Direct (described separately) is now the usual way to go. Start up the L-facing corner of a huge flake leaning against the east face of the buttress (crawl through behind the flake from the right or scramble easily up from below).
FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1965 | 100m, 4 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | |||||
12 | ★ Bygone
The retrobolt eliminated serious fall potential, making this route a must for confident leaders at the grade ... but don't expect to be sewing it up with gear every metre. The southeast face of the Morfydd pinnacle faces the back of Fang Buttress. Start under this face. FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1967 | 30m, 1 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area | |||||
12 | ★ The Grand Arapiles Alpine Traverse
This is just one of innumerable soil-to-summit enchainments of Arapiles which have been enjoyed by countless parties since time immemorial, and which are best left as a choose-your-own-adventure. See the FA notes if you really want to know how this one goes. FA: | 220m, 8 | |||
12 | Sisyphus
Start at Ali's.
FA: Two South Australians, 1965 | 80m, 4 | |||
12 | Oedipus Complex
Follow Sisyphus for 15m, then begin a long traverse. Pass Orpheus and Eurydice's 2nd belay, and reverse THE traverse on Bard. Now downclimb the Bard. FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1968 | 66m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bard Buttress | |||||
12 | ★★★ Bard
1
12
43m
2
12
12m
3
12
20m
4
12
15m
5
12
30m
Start at the R end of the base of the buttress.
FA: Jim Newlands & Bruce Hocking, 1965 | 120m, 5 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Dead Eye Dick Wall | |||||
12 | Xindi
A pleasant ramble, although likely very close to or a repeat of the upper portion of Bong Tree (on Seneca Wall). From the base of Missing Link, the first pitch starts approximately 20 metres down towards the top of Tiger Wall, not far R of DED. There is a small crack at ground level to protect the belayer from plummeting off Tiger Wall.
FFA: Aaron & tgbuckley482, Apr 2022 | 50m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | |||||
12 | ★ Hawk
1
10
46m
2
12
25m
3
12
30m
4
25m
Start: Start as for The Bard (which is described on the 'Bard Buttress' page).
FA: John Bennett & Greg Martin (alt), 1964 | 130m, 4 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall Area Pan Grove | |||||
12 | Golden Oldies
It's scary to think they called the route this way back then! Start: 5m R of 'Fox Tales'. FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Jack Lewis, 1986 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | |||||
12 | ★ The Flue
The prominent gash at the L end of 'Grotto Wall'. FA: Keith Lockwood & Garry Sudholz., 1967 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Dead-point Wall | |||||
12 | Point the Bone
About two-thirds of the way from the left on the roadside face is an orange corner which faces left and is low down. Easiest approach is behind the Death Row Pinnacle and walk left along a terrace to its left end. Scramble up and slightly left and climb orange corner. Above the corner there's a little bulge with a stack of loose blocks offering a foothold. Instead move left onto the steep, juggy wall and up past the bulge then step back right into the obvious crack. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 40m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Looking Glass Wall | |||||
12 | Goanna
Climb streak all the way past ledges. Start: Start about 15 metres right of 'Hot Tip' at another water streak FA: Keith Lockwood & Halvard Andersen-Dalheim, 1981 | 60m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Ministry Wall | |||||
12 | Come Clean
Climb corner and veer L through the small roof above. Start: Start on L side of 'Ministry Wall' at L facing steepening corner with lichen at base. FA: Jack Lewis & Michael Persin, 1995 | 45m | |||
12 | ★ Come Clean Direct Finish
After the left-leaning corner, continue over the bulge and straight up. Good rock, good gear. This route assumes the original veered left below the bulge as per the description. FA: Peter Upton, Richard Gaunt & Rhys Boyar, 3 Jul 2021 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | |||||
12 | ★★ Hurricane Lamp Cracks
1
12
25m
2
11
20m
3
11
20m
4
11
10m
5
8
43m
A fine old classic whose grade seems to be gradually creeping up. Used to be grade 8 back in the day. Many variations are possible. Start at the chimney 7 metres right of Five Fingered Mary.
FA: Chris Baxter & Reg Williams, 1965 | 120m, 5 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos The French Crack Area | |||||
12 | ★ French Crack P2
Instead of scrambling up to the top of Pharos, climb straight up from the DBB of FC. Plenty of gear and good belay on top around a boulder | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area | |||||
12 | ★ Shitty Nappies
Short corner and arete on left side of wall, starting 2 metres left of "Party Tricks". A bit contrived up high. FA: Campbell Mercer & Julie Nitschke, 1992 | 15m | |||
12 | ★ Lights in the Sky
Deep crack 2 metres right of "Romper Room". Take big gear, knee pads and crack gloves. FA: Mike & Jenny Ashton, 1987 | 15m | |||
12 | ★ Bites in the Pie
Borderline for a star but an interesting jamming experience. The crack right of "Lights In The Sky" FA: Greg Pritchard & Jon Muir, 1993 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Duck Crag | |||||
12 | Home for Tea
These two climbs are on the gentle wall opposite Duck Crag, directly below a slackline launch site. Easily approached via the disabled lookout. Home for Tea is an obvious finish to Duck up the Stairs. Crack on the wall opposite the northern edge of Duck Crag. The crack leads to a gentle slab, trending left to the top. FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 8 Sep 2018 | 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Baker's Wall | |||||
12 | Prendergast
Layback flake to right end of roof. At roof, traverse left and up. Start: Start at the layback flake 30 metres left of diagonal. FA: Keith Lockwood & Doug Palmen, 1977 | 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | |||||
12 | ★ Hendor
Essentially a variant finish to "Long Hair And Greatcoats". It originally started by moving around the right side of the huge chockstone but that is worthless. Start as for "Long Hair And Greatcoats". Follow Long Hair And Greatcoats to manky old peg at top of shallow black corner. Make a committing move left and then up interesting thin crack to top. FA: Daryl Carr & Ken Readwin, 1967 | 36m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | |||||
12 | Sweet Bugger All
Quite pleasant really. Start up Future Past and climb directly up, keeping about 2 metres right of the blunt arete, to the top. FA: Keith Egerton (solo), 1984 | 30m | |||
12 R | ★ The Protege
A memorable excursion up a monster chimney. Protection is spaced. Up chimney to large chockstone at 30 metres. Go around overhang and up to ledge (2 old pitons, possible belay). Bridge widely to top. FA: Daryl Carr & Chris Baxter, 1967 | 50m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Wedding Tackle Area | |||||
12 | Mentor
Maybe worthwhile as an approach for 'The Protege'. The obvious chimney which appears to lead directly into The Protege when viewed from near Uncle Charlie. Approach past the left end of the Furphy Wall, Climb the chimney to the roof. Step right and bridge up the continuation. FA: Ed Neve & Keith Lockwood, 1977 | 36m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area | |||||
12 | Moonlighting
From start of 'Tiptoe Ridge', take left-leaning grey diagonal then step right to short right-facing orange corner on right arete of south face. There are some loose blocks. FA: Recorded : Annette Halley, Jenni Martin, Dave Kitching & Marian Lester, 1992 | 40m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Area Below Tiptoe Ridge | |||||
12 | Chookfest 93
Little corner 1 metre right of 'Free Beer' to roof then up slab. FA: Greg Pritchard, Jon Muir, Graeme Sigh & Annette Jone, 1993 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Siren Area | |||||
12 | Artemis
Starts at Siren’s first belay.
FA: Pete Holmes, Jack Jane & Colin Hoad, 2 Jun 2017 | 80m, 2 | |||
12 | ★★★ Siren Direct Finish
1
4
25m
2
8
35m
3
8
35m
4
12
50m
5
11
10m
Definitely the best way to climb Siren, especially as it only has one move at grade 12 and creates one of the best easy corner pitches anywhere!
FA: Ian Guild & Doug Hatt.., 1964 | 160m, 5 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | |||||
12 | ★★ Watchtower Chimney
1
12
45m
2
8
17m
3
12
31m
4
8
18m
A climb which gets the heart going no matter if you're on lead or seconding, with the first pitch, by itself, being a great line! Start: There are two deep cracks at the base of the Watchtower. Start at the left-hand crack.
FA: Michael Stone, Ian Speedie & Garry Kerkin, 1965 | 110m, 4, 1 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces The Watchtower | |||||
12 | ★★ A Rack of Phobias
The right arete of Arachnus. Quite fun and there are numerous possible variations. | 110m, 4 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | |||||
12 | ★★ Panzer
Start directly below the turret perching high above the right end of the face, just in front of a large boulder.
FA: Bruce Hocking & Mike Stone, 1965 | 95m, 3 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall | |||||
12 | ★★ Cheshire Cat
This good combination gives another way to approach the nice overhang on Manx. Some people prefer Manx RHV and others prefer this. | 22m | |||
12 | Alley Cat
Mangy. FA: Chris Dewhirst & Bruce Osborne, 1966 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | |||||
12 | The CIown
Not great. Well up the gully left of the main buttress, almost to 'Henry Bolte Wall', is a narrow chimney.
FA: Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst, John Moore. Pitch 2 variant : Garry Sudholz, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth.., 1968 | 78m, 3 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Harlequin Cracks Area | |||||
12 | Court Jester
Wanders up the left side of the buttresses. A bit scrappy but worth a look. Start some distance uphill of 'Beau Geste', just left of a deep horizontal break.
FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & Laurie Beesley, 1965 | 100m, 5 | |||
12 | Last Remake
Not a bad pitch. Could be used as a start for 'Artificial Insemination'. Crack about 10 metres left of Beau Geste, avoiding top overhang to right (dirty) FA: Kieran Loughran, Jopie Bodegraven & Robert Knox, 1980 | 25m | |||
12 | XXXX
Similar to Bung. Start as for Bung but after stepping right continue straight up the wall rather than following line. FA: Allan Hope & Bill Andrews, 1983 | 45m | |||
12 | Where The F Are We
This monster corner-chimney is not only good fun, but benefits from coming into shade early in the day, but last pitch is in full sun. Great 1st and last pitches with some scrap in the middle.
Walk off the back to finish and down trail to left. Set: Geoff, 2013 FFA: 2013 FA: Geoff, Alicia, Jason & Holly, 2013 | 97m, 4 | |||
12 | Happy-go-Lucky
Prominent broken diagonal right of 'Salami'. Start at short red corner some metres right of 'Salami'.
FA: Peter Watling & Anita Lundberg (alt), 1984 | 91m, 4 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Mysteries Wall | |||||
12 | ★ Gardener's Delight
First pitch doesn't get a lot of traffic so can be dirty. Great second pitch. Start: Start at the rounded arete, about the same place as Eeyores Thistles.
FA: Jerry Grandage, Rob Taylor (alt), Daryl Carr & Andrew Smith, 1966 | 60m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Echo Crag | |||||
12 | Whimsical
The botanical corner left of Leaden Echo.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Murray Taylor, 1968 | 60m, 4 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Kachoong Area | |||||
12 | Monkey
Looks awful. FA: Roland & Ann Pauligk, 1973 | 24m | |||
12 | Taliban Airways
(Flying into 'New York', twice daily). A good way to get up to the start of 'Kachoong' warm. Even when after climbing here with the first ascentionist, we're not sure where these routes are! Underneath the start of 'Kachoong' is a wall which the track skirts. Unless this is also squished in with Constance Little, it appears to be the line on the next short wall heading directly to the belay for Kachoong. Felt a little more like 15 though. FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 2001 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Nameless Gully | |||||
12 | ★ Devil’s Food Cake
The blocky staircase-like feature that leads right and up. Shares finish with Kueh Lapis. Walk off descent. FFA: madeleine Woods, Jae Zhong & muki woods, 12 Jul 2018 | 8m | |||
12 | Declan the Crab
No joke. (2 pitches for a 15m route is a bit of a joke though?!) Start: Start on the left side of this wall. FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999 | 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Mermaid Avenue | |||||
12 | The Police Gospel Quartet
Start: Start as for 'Mermaid Avenue' then up right arete. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1999 | 25m | |||
12 | ★ Manatee Fair
The best of the lot. Originally graded 10. Start: Start 5m right of 'Mermaid Avenue' just left of arete. FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999 | 20m | |||
12 | Jonathon Livingstone Baitfish
Not very long and pretty unpalatable. Start: Start in the chimney that 'Stone Age' starts in. FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North PB Gully | |||||
12 | Is The Pope a Catholic
Line 4 metres right of Grade 6 crack. FA: Peter Cunningham & Glenn Donohue, 1987 | 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Hum Terrace | |||||
12 | From the Ridiculous to the Sublime
Climb past short wall and ledge to gain thin crack. FA: Phil Benson, Martin Lama & Graeme Smith, 1991 | 12m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Windy Buttress | |||||
12 | Cantaloupe
Up crack just right of 'The Closet' for 10 metres then up front of buttress. Finish up good short crack. FA: Allan Hope & Bill Andrews, 1982 | 35m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Cliche Wall | |||||
12 | Cuddapan
Good rock. FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood., 2001 | 18m | |||
12 | Hump The Bluey
Diagonal line slanting slightly left. FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood., 2001 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock South Mitre | |||||
12 | ★ Wee Skerrick
This is the next line up the ramp from the first belay of The Baptism. | 12m |