Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Take 'The Dock' to the roof and continue through the obvious crack.

Bouldery start with no protection. Up onto shelf and then up left leaning crack and through the roof crack. Be wary of loose rock on top.

Nice line up water streak through the middle of the north west face of Monkey Buttress. Nice moves all the way with just enough small gear to keep you happy. Beware of loose rock and lichen at the top which will clean up with traffic.

Pro is difficult to arrange. Face immediately left of Toffee Apple, finishing up right arête.

Start 3m right of Miriamski, under a large guano stain. Veer left up wall (#0 SLCD in pocket, medium hex or #2 Camalot passively in higher pocket) and then through left end of overhang, just left of a horn.

Start as for Fledgling. Straight up to ledge at 1/3 height. Step up then veer right following the holds up the black hall. FTRA N Cullen, W Stevens

Quite technical and committing for a “three move wonder”, but otherwise forgettable. Start 4m left of 'Weight For Age Handicap', left of the tree. Steep crack and overhang then finish easily up 'Weight For Age Handicap'.

Towards the R end of the cliff and just L of a distinctive, yellow, L-facing corner and roof in the upper part of the cliff is a box-like groove, marked with a small cairn, behind a large tree. Line to loose ledge. Continue to steep section, then go diagonally R up wall to ledge below corner on R (just L of the roof mentioned above). Up.

Companion route to On Safari. Start up On Safaribut continue straight up wall. From prominent flake, veer up left to finish steeply by final, short, broad groove.

Brilliant and sustained climbing on wall right of Jungle Drums. From 4m right of Jungle Drums, climb middle of wall,traverse left to foot of diagonal crack just above overhangs over Jungle Drums. Up diagonal, then follow crackup right for 3m to stance. Step up left and finish steeply straight up.

Pocketed line and wall immediately right of Pocketed.

Open corner 5m right of Fencing The Fridge, then right through bulges to sloping ledge. Delicately up ‘pimpled’ corner to shelf. Follow ledge round left. Corner to ledge. Belay.

Good, steep pocket-pulling.Sustained.Climb pocketed seam on buttress 5mright of The Fall Of Jerusalem to ledge.Go 2m right and climb overhang and seam above.

Incipient crack to break 2m right of Shingles, then groove.

Roof with hole through it.

As for ABoC for 5m, then a thin move up L, and up the surprisingly sustained wall between IWVS and ABoC. Direct through centre of top bulge using small roof flake. Looks lichenous but all holds were cleaned during/after FA.

Arête at right side of wall, then step round roof. Loose territory above.

Off width corner crack 6m right of TA

Short crack 20m right of Whale. The 1991 guide makes all these routes sound awful and they've probably only gotten worse.

Left of descent gully (left of camping cave) is a wall with a small cave. Thin crack just right of left arête, past bulge,then horizontal break.

Line in middle of face, bulge, thin finish.

More of the same. Initialled weakness 37m right of G, 25m left of The Ogive.

Chimney behind boulder of DP. Old BR and PR.

Steep, offwidth corner left of Manic. After corner, traverse right and follow your nose to top.

Chimney 10m right of MVS, then wanders all over the shop.

Best done in 3 pitches. P1: Climb pitch one of Gerontian. P2: Careful rope management required. Traverse left off belay ledge along horizontal rail past piton to exposed position on arete. Climb left side of arete on good holds, before traversing back right to arete proper. Up steeply on right side of arete to a small belay ledge. P3: Up arete to top (poor rock) or alternatively traverse right to the last pitch of Gerontian.

Classic.

Start: Climbs small corner above boulder blocking track. Initialed.

Good to link pitch 2 and 3. The Pitch 2 crux can be protected with Camalot 4s and a 5 and/or micro wires and a rusty piton.

1. 15m (14) Step right at 3m and climb poorly protected wall, or go L and climb the arete.

2. 17m (17) Up shallow offwidth corner past historic piton.

3. 14m (17) Step up from ledge and traverse left in hand crack under overhang to vertical crack. Up.

Good combination/link up route with two sections of new climbing. Start 5m right of Gerontion.

1. 35m(17) Straight up wall to join Melon Was Here at the left facings ickle. Up this and step right on ledge to block (as for Melon Was Here). Veer left up wall above and up crack to Gerontion anchor two.

2. 15m Finish up Gerontion Direct Finish.

Steep jam crack behind conifer (which may be dead by now) right of Genesis to ledge. First pitch is great, then meander to the top however.

Climb until you are able to step right to rap rings. A few small to medium wires are handy if you are not confident at the grade.

Traverse starting from the descent anchor.

Up crack for a few moves then left onto wall, trend left up wall to thin seam at top.

Wall between The Gunk and The Skunk.

Arête 8m left of Addition.Upon rounded holds, moving right to arête and seam at 10m. Through break in lip and up steep face above on good holds and pro. Worthwhile.

Done in the pouring rain. Not really sure on the grade it felt harder than 17 but I was slipping around quite a lot at the time. Follow crack on wall right of easier climbs up right then change cracks and head back left.

Face 2m lef of 2 wide cracks just left of MDTG

on right wall of descent gully (40m left of right end of cliff). 6m left of arete, flared crack heading left then back right and wander around run out ground to top

Just left of right arete.

Left-leading line left of arête on smooth wall 25m right of New Front Ear.

Thin crack on right side of buttress 15m left of Terror Australis, then left at overhang. Through bulge, then right up mossy groove.

Excellent short climb. Looks harder than it is. Thin seam at left end of left buttress is entered from left, then fol-lowed. Step right at its top and finish up V-line above.

Exposed. Also a direct finish for The Kingdom Of Nothingness. Straight up to final overhangs. Step left past fixed piton runner, then back right on to hanging arête above it.

Looks unprotected and desperate but is neither. Recommended. Roof and bulging wall just right of Samakand.

From final overhang, hand-traverse right. Pull through bulge, then short wall above.

About 200m right of Little Wing is a series of enormous blocks below the cliff and just left of red roofs. Above the blocks and left of the buttress with the red roofs is a wall with a thin crack up its left side. Crack. Finish on ledge below easy ground. To get off, traverse left (belayed), then descend easily.

Good climbing. Climb wall 5m right of Show And Tell to blocks under over-hang. Up and left over overhang to ledge.

1. 20m Thin wall 2m right of Swamp Harrier. Traverse 4m left at sloping ledge.

2. 15m Knobbly crack (poor pro).

This is a fitting finish to this long overlooked climb. Start on the terrace at the top of pitch four. Move 2-3 metres left to undercut crack at lefthand edge of ledge. Up the crack, following it rightwards on the steep headwall. To get off, scramble back then up and right to reach the walking track.

Nice wall climbing on grit like rock. This route had four un-glued u-bolts in place that were removed by hand during the onsight ascent. Very good trad is available all the way up this climb. Bring a full rack to #3 SLCD size.

Start: Starts at small orange corner with tiny roof above that sits directly below a rounded arete. Bridge up corner then step right to good thin crack. Up this and onto slopey face above to final 'gritstone' top out and the surprised tourists.

Not Rosea's most attractive climb. Vegetated line 4 metres left of 'Big Chimney'.

1. 21m (17) Cimney-crack to a ledge.

2. 42m (-) Up corner past large tree and old bolt to chimney. Up chimney until above roof.

3. 24m (-) Chimney

Short, steep crack up buttress 5m R of Rameses, with tricky exit. Note: A Rap Anchor exists at the top of this route.

This fine line used to have a reputation as some sort of horror-show with poor rock and protection. This has seen the climb get little attention. Jerry Maddox enhanced the climb's poor image by adding a direct finish that was characterised by dirt and loose flakes. However recent ascents have established that the route is a ripper, especially if the maligned direct finish (as described) is used. A sustained, demanding climb that should be on everyone's Rosea tick-list.

Include some large gear and slings in the rack.

Start: The chimney 15m left of "The Last Act". Initialled "DG".

1. 20m (15) Start up the left wall and then follow the steep crack to a big ledge.

2. 36m (17) The sustained line 5m left of the chimney past an overhang at 30 metres to a big ledge. Take some care with the rock at the start. Protection is adequate but not brilliant.

3. 33m (17) Climb crack to bulge. Continue straight up steep groove on flakes (original traverses 6 metres left to another groove and goes up that) to top. Take some care with the rock but protection is good.

It was thought that combining the good first two pitches of 'The Sloth' with the DG DF would give a really great route. However, the linkup is contrived and difficult and it is much better to do 'Sloth' with it's own direct finish.

A quality route of varying styles: the second pitch follows enormous pockets, with the final pitch providing classy positions.

Pitch 1 can seep for some time. Old guidebooks have recommended "big gear", but the route needs nothing bigger than size #3 camalot. Linking pitches 1 & 2 is easy to achieve with double ropes (and makes for two excellent 45m pitches).

1. 20m (15) Up flake pillar about 7m left of The Last Act, taking care with rock, then tend left up easy orange wall to semi-hanging belay at major break.

2. 25m (17) Swing up left over pocketed bulge. Continue pulling on enormous gym style holds until you can move right to small corner. Follow the flake lines up and left to belay below overhang (at the second belay of Dinosaur Gully).

3. 45m (16) Bridge up the boulder choke chimney to small grassy ledge (belay possible). Up short corner to roof and crawl/traverse right to the arete. Climb the crack above in an outrageous position past a series of bulges to a terrace.

To descend from the terrace, the first rap is from rings found 10m right (above The Last Act).

Wanders too much and crux is harder and more poorly protected than the rest of the climb.

Start: Start as for 'Vee Wee'.

1. 30m (14) Scramble up to wide crack in right wall. Up this to ledge then face above (old PR) (this is a for Vee Wee) and exit right to a ledge (this pitch same as for Bad Moon Rising)

2. 35m (17) Traverse easily right to the overhanging arete which is climbed on jugs to a small ledge. Up a few metres on rounded, mossy rock and traverse left to the arete which is climbed to a small stance.

3. 30m (-) Go up to the roof above a yellow block. Veer up left on the arete above to a goood, large ledge.

4. 20m (-) Straight up to terrace.

5. 30m (-) Short wall and finish up chimney-crack on the right.

Very sustained with mostly OK protection but the third pitch has a poorly protected corner. Expect to find a bit of dirt as it is rarely climbed but it is worth it.

Start: Below the major corner about 20m left of Gillian/Ma Cherie.

1. 12m (16) The wall right of the bushy corner to ledge below the main corner

2. 39m (18) Climb the corner which gradually eases to belay under an overhang, which can offer a little shade on a warm day.

3. 39m (17) Step right and go up 5m to below three corners. Boldly up leftmost corner, taking care with rock, then to ledge on left. 'Steep' crack off ledge to top.

Dramatic line with sustained climbing. You only get the tick if you do all of the climb.

Start: Corner 10 metres left of 'Coronary Country'

1. 33m (16) Up corner, steeply past right side of triangular roof, back left to belay.

2. 30m (15) On up corner past the right side of another roof.

3. 21m (18) Corner to a large ledge. Don't walk off but climb hard overhang and then up line.

Maybe a good first pitch but the name gives more than a hint of what's on offer.

Start: As for 'Cream'

1. 37m (18) Up the 'Cream' corner and head up diagonally right and up to the first belay of 'Abednego'. Step right and up twin cracks to ledge/cave.

2. 53m (-) If you can be bothered go 6m left and then fight your way up for two more pitches, occasionally straying onto rock.

May be worth a look.

Start: Start as for 'Abednego'

1. 21m (-) The corner then onto left arete and up a good crack as or 'Abednego'. Move back right as for that climb and belay.

2. 24m (-) Bridge up to scrubby ledge above V-corner.

3. 25m (18) Off-width and corner to tree.

4. 15m (-) Up then up and right through scrub.

Excellent sustained climbing, especially on the first half. Dirt and bushes detract from the latter half of the climb. Originally done in three pitches.

Start: Starts at the letter "A" as for 'Abednego' and takes the right-hand line.

1. 41m (16) Follow the line past a tiny stance at 30m to a good, scrubby ledge.

2. 40m (16) Move past the conifer and on up corners to the top with some dirt and scrub

Corner/groove 3m right of Big Boys Don’t Cry.

Great climbing up an attractive orange groove seven metres left of 'Shadrach', even better with the direct finish.

1. 43m. Start at thin crack, then up and delicately into corner (protection from RP's and small wires, did they have those in '67!?). At the top of pitch one (there's no gear for a belay), instead of traversing R across loose wall, mantle L (no protection) and straight up to attractive flake. Up this, then move out to L and up lovely grey arete to belay in pod.

2. 7m, up to Tree and 50m abseil.

Independent finish added (climbed in one pitch) by Goshen Watts, 2018.

OK face climbing on good rock. Not a bad climb to fill out the day. The start and finish will be dirty .

Start: Where the access pad reaches the cliff at a thin seam at the right hand side of a smooth wall.

Start: Start a few metres left of Commando Climb at a break in the overhang. There used to be some railings here but they have mercifully been removed.

1. 25m (17) Pull through overhang and go up and step right into left of two parallel grooves. Go up to below overhang.

2. 30m (-) Up right over loose block and up short groove. Step left to square-cut groove and climb it to next overhang. Crack above to bushy ledge below corner.

3. 20m (-) Corner, then crack on right wall. (? is this pitch Bernie's Open Book?)

Constantly engaging climbing.

Start: Start as for Commando Climb.

1. 35m (18) Up for 3 metres then step around left and climb steep orange groove. After about 8 metres the groove dissipates and you can swing left onto the arete. Jugs up left side of arete lead to a technical corner which leads to a ledge.

2. 25m (-) Move left 2 metres and swing up line via a layback edge and shonky looky (but OK) jug. Up line to major horizontal break.

3. 25m (-) Around overhang at crack immediately right of belay. Straight up line to dramatic finish through summit overhang. This pitch may be the same as the finish of 'The White Cockade'.

Finishes up a sustained groove in the head wall. Some dirt and loose blocks detract from the climb overall, but it could clean up quite well. Originally graded 14. Start: as for Commando Climb.

1. 17m (12) Follow Commando Climb to ledge on the right.

2. 44m (16) Crack on right then up right side of wall [L of closed groove]. Continue up steep seam, when it runs out traverse 3 metres left [loose blocks] then follow right leaning groove to bushy cave below overhang. The route may originally have gone higher before traversing L, this would be very unprotected and quite hard.

3. 25m (18) Go 4 metres left along scrubby ledge. Crack to ledge on right. RH line with increasing difficulty to top.

Major choss starting up 'Bus Stop' and finishing up the prominent corner to the left.

Start: Start as for 'Bus Stop'.

1. 42m (17) As for 'Bus Stop'.

2. 38m (-) Left to wide line, up a few metres and right onto face. Diagonally right, step right, straight up to ledge, left to belay.

3. 40m (17) Left into big corner. Up corner to rotten rock. Crack on right wall to overhang (? multiple peg runners, loose blocks). Dirty moves into clean corner. Up to top with a deviation onto right arete.

Starting up the first two pitches of 'Call of the Wild' and finishing up a prominent corner gives quite a good route. The original start is described here but is best forgotten.

Start: Start about 10 metres left of 'Martin Eden'. Faded initals BS.

1. 42m (12) Up right to a pinnacle, crack up left side of this and wall above. Not a good pitch.

2. 30m (14) Step right and up groove, right into next groove, up to ledge on right. Along ledge then right on slabs then up left to ledge below overhang (second belay of Call of The Wild).

3. 18m (17) Left into classic corner and jam to glory.

4. 18m (14) Corner to top.

Can safely be forgotten. Used to share Bus Stop's worthless start before traversing to the third pitch of 'John Barleycorn'. Lots of aid originally used on pitches 3 and 4.

Start: Start as for 'Bus Stop'.

1. 42m (-) AS for 'Bus Stop'.

2. 43m (-) Follow the second pitch of 'Bus Stop' for 25 metres then traverse right to a corner, go up a little and traverse right between overhangs. Up line to belay on right.

3. 23m (18) Step left and over bulge past bolt. Up corner to tree.

4. 25m (-) Down, then traverse right to crack. Up, passing overhang on right.