Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Starts just left of Uranium-234, up the blank face past FH’s. A big runout to either the L’Essence or Uranium-234 anchor.

Start in the back of the cave on the massive jug rail. Make your way to the lip and traverse all the way left using tricky footwork, then head up as for Curtain Call to match on the sharp jug.

This line also has a direct variant that heads straight up from the lip to the crimp rail and finishes as for Encore. This line differs to Grand Opening as you can use the left side of the wall.

Start as for "The Show Must Go On" on the massive jug rail. Go directly up to thin edge on the lip and finish the same as Encore. This line differs to "The Show Must Go On" as it eliminates the left sidewall. It requires tricky foot work, big biceps, and excellent tension to get out of the cave. The bat hang is one way, but is there another?

Start: Takes a right-trending line across the wall starting just right of 100 Pound Club's start holds.

This line starts from a low sit start (left of the route 'Let X=X') using an undercling, then traverses left across small crimps to better holds in the break on the final face. Finish at the high pocket. Very reminiscent of 'Seam Grip' at Andersens.

Sit start off the pedestal left of Snow Mike, bust straight out the roof with some tension before topping out the cliff.

Upper Cave.

Has quite a reputation... One of the best problems for its grade. Starts just left of 'Donald'. Sit-start on two opposing sidepulls and climb the central 'rib' line directly via a very bad sloper, a pinch, and some sneaky footwork. Can also be done via a LH sequence using a big move to a bad sloper (RH) - then to the slopers on the lip, before moving up to the high jug. Solid at the grade either way.

Uhuru film channel

Satoshi

Middle Cave. 2016 guidebook grading

Upgraded from V5 to 7 in 2016 Bouldering Guide. Which seems fair!

Lower Cave.

Lower Cave.

Great line on left side of face climbing up to the seam left of definitely and avoiding all the holds up the centre. Not too hard at V7 but the hardest moves are at the top so a bit engaging. Can be climbed from stand or sit.

Eliminate.

Start as for 'Glass Half MT' but don't escape left and stay compressing up the prow. Stay off the high jugs and the left foothold. Finishes with a big move to the top right of the prow then tops out around the right.

Peter

Start as for "To Hate To Love" to the ledge before the roof. Mantle the ledge up to a high LH two finger pocket and continue delicately up the headwall to better holds.

Sit start on slopey rail.

Small LH seam and good RH edge. Pounce to a pocket then top out up the groove. FA Alistair Robertson.

Sit start on a good crimp and move up the blunt arete. The V7 (original line) traverses into crimps then slopers on the right side of the arete. Finishing direct on the arete goes at about V4.

Wonderful climbing based on the sharp, undercut arete right of Dance of Life. The crux is very hard, but very short. If you pull on the crux bolt it's an excellent 25M1. Take a full rack incl. 2 #3.5 cams, and 15-20 quickdraws.

Start directly below the impressive hanging arete which soars upwards from the R side of a large roof. This is just L of where the walk-in meets the cliff, and is where the track along the base balances along the top edge of a large smooth-faced boulder.

1. 35m (27) 10m easy grey slab, beware some friable rock, to desperate orange slab with a FH. Follow flakes to the steep groove on the R side of the arete. Crux past FH to break, then L and up L side of arete, 3½ cam & FH. At big break move R to belay in small cave.

2. 15m (24) On up face, veering slightly right-wards to top.

This alternative second pitch to Seventh Banana is rather runout at times, but it's also an incredible sustained line. Start at the first anchor of Seventh Banana. Up Seventh Banana pitch 2 for a few moves then move L (crux past the first bolt), and blast up the somewhat sparsely bolted grey streak to the top. Between the last 2 RBs it rejoins Seventh Banana for a few metres, then heads left again. 6 RB's & DRB anchor. There's some optional cam placements but they don't reduce the runouts much. Rebolted 2017.

A good aid climb turned into a great free climb. The first pitch is worth a star or two in its own right and is justifiably very popular with Taipan virgins.

Start 25m R of The Great Divide, and 8m R of The Chick is Trouble.

1. 25m (23) Up shallow orange flake/corner to the large deep break, then traverse 5m L to pocketed roof (an alternative but inferior start is as for TCiT). Over roof (RB) on pockets, then follow flakes up and L to a ledge and DRB (20m rap).

2. 30m (27) Some great moves in prime positions, but unfortunately not very sustained. Up to smooth wall, then step R to the desperate slabbing crux (FHs) to a good rest. Up the incipient crack to the bulge and over this with difficulty. Up and L to a good slot and up to another slot and then a fingery wall leads to the top. This pitch has 4FH's and a lower-off shared with Daedalus.

As for Sirocco pitch 2 past the first bolt (doing it's crux), then move L and up for 25m of new climbing between Seventh Banana and Sirocco to the top. You can also approach from Seventh Banana, by stepping R after doing the crux on p2.

A good option if you think Father O eases off too much after its crux. Start as for Father O, until just past it's 3rd bolt. Now head up the R side of the scoop, through bulge past 2 FHs and 2 RBs (thin crux direct past 2nd RB - deduct a grade (and maybe some self respect) if you deviate L around this bolt into Father O) to break. Trend R from break to top. Take cams & wires. If that's not enough harder climbing for you then throw in the worthwhile direct start, from the middle of the belay ledge and heading up L (good tiny trad) to Father O's first bolt.

Variety! The famous HB dyno route as immortalized by Simon Carter's photos in the early 1990s. Take a full rack up to #2.5Fr, including Aliens, RPs, and sling runners (and/or double ropes) to minimise drag. Start as for Sirocco.

1. 35m (27) A great series of features. Follow pitch 1 of Sirocco to the horizontal. Swing R along this to tricky white corner and gain slab (FH). Trend R and up technical slab and finally the infamous big dyno between buckets (battered FH), to lower-off (25m, but a 60m rope barely reaches if it's still through all the gear so tie a knot in the end).

2. 35m 32. The daunting beautiful red wall above to a rap anchor at the top. Yet another contender for the best pitch on the wall. Renamed Orange Desire by Quentin; more like 33 according to Alex Megos.

This short variant halfway up the second pitch was the final link for the whole line to go free. Break L from the top of the initial fat flake/corner on pitch 2 of TSP, 2 bolts and hard moves take you over the bulge and up the thin face to gain the guano-stained flake on the original.

A superbly positioned bouldery little pitch. Makes a logical 3rd pitch for The Great Affair now that that has been freed. Start at the second belay of The Seventh Pillar. Blast up the surprisingly overhung headwall, trending a little R, past 2RBs and a medium cam. Lower off anchor. Rebolted 2018.

Another excellent 15m variant to Serpentine. Follow Serpentine pitch 2 for 12m until halfway up the fridge hugging. Trend R and up past bolts to loweroffs (30m to 1st belay, 52m to ground). The loweroff is somewhat diagonal - be careful not to end up hanging in space.

Almost completely superseded by Sneaky Snake, especially until the start bulge gets freed. But still worth recording, for those who can't climb 33! Start 8m R of Naja. Stick clip and batman 10m to third bolt to bypass the blank bulge, then follow the awe-inspiring water grooves in the incredible steep sheer wall. Finish at the half-height DRB. 70m rope recommended. The low bulge has reportedly almost been freed, but will be MUCH harder - open project. Initially done with a batman start from the break above the 1st bolt (grade 30)

Takes one of Taipan's best scoop lines and is ultra classic in it's own right. Start 10m up L from the base of Invisible Fist. This scramble/traverse is 10m off the ground and trickier than it looks.

1. 25m (28) Groovy. Follow the disconcertingly holdless groove, deviating left around a blank bit at 15m via some crux cranks. Exciting finish well above bolt to rap anchor (30m to ground). Can feel very hard for 28 until you work it out.

The stunning final pitch is one of the very best on the wall. Before you get there, there's a hard crux on the 2nd pitch. The hanging 2nd belay is best avoided by linking pitches 2 and 3, while pitch 2 is easily worked from the ground if you have a recalcitrant belayer. Start on the elevated ledge, 7m R of the top of the boulder and just R of the small tree, at a short fat flake on the slab.

1. 20m (21) A worthwhile pitch in its own right, although all the mantles are somewhat above gear. Up the slabby flake then 4m R along breaks. 3 slithery mantles lead to rap anchor on ledge (18m). Cams, med. wires.

2. 13m (27) Follow fused flake up L with increasing difficulty, then a draining fingery traverse back R to 3 bolt anchor (8m to 1st belay, 25m to base).

3. 20m (24) Brilliant. Tough moves out slopey 3m roof flake, past the only remaining original bolt - consider a small cam just below to back it up. Now blast up the very steep and very exposed water groove past 4 bolts and a spicy final runout. A wire can reportedly be finagled in on the top runout, but with all that air below your remaining energy is probably better spent in braving the final moves without it! DRB rap anchor (48m to ground).

Suffocatingly powerful. Usually led as one giant pitch. Start at large expanding left-facing flake 8m right of World Party.

1. 18m (21) Not a great pitch. Expanding flake (FH), then traverse left across break (FH) and up slab to chain belay (15m rap). A few medium-large cams are useful.

2. 30m (28) Straight up (2 FHs) to stance on the left, then rightwards out bulge with sustained endurance climbing up to big roof. Over 2 roofs into water runnel above (2 FHs), then head off left (but not into World Party) and up to anchors. 60m rope is enough to lower off to 1st belay, if belayer is on the 1st belay.

This linkup provides an easier way to do Tourniquet p2 as a single monster pitch from the ground. Climb Mr J p1 to it's 2nd last bolt, slopy traverse R to middle of black streak (cams), spicy up black streak into the spacious cave. Join Tourniquet pitch 2 up the arete.

The popular first pitch is a beautiful scoop of rock with a tenuous traverse and remarkably sustained climbing for the length of the scoop. The business is a little short to rank up there with Taipan's very best, but it's still awesome. Pitch 2 is rarely done but is an absolute blast. Start at the DRB atop Kaa p1, accessed as described above. (There is an old direct start with a couple of bolts (described on the Spurt Wall page), but nobody bothers with it).

1. 20m (28) This pitch is almost a sport route as it contains a few fixed wires to supplement the bolts, but most people also put in a few medium cams. It's a very popular pitch due to its squishy grade, and is many climbers' first 28. Step right past RB and up reachy wall past wires to big break. Swing over rooflet (wire) then traverse R across scoop. Pump up the subtle R arete of the scoop (2 RBs + wire) then a tricky conclusion up L to break. Clip-and-go lower-off (16m to ledge, 30m to ground).

2. 20m (26) Traverse 5m L from the lower off then up the red scoop (bolt, med cams) into cave above (optional 2no of carrot bolt plates on spacious ledge: pitch 1 originally went to here). Out right side of cave to top and lower off (80m rope recommended). Rebolted 2017. This pitch is most easily approached via Mr V.

2 bolt boulder start to RS. Classic!!

The trad placement has now been retroed - silly poms can keep using the #2.5 Fr if they wish. Another new bolt has thankfully straightened the half height deviation to the right, eliminating the ridiculous tough cross-through clip of the 'Academia' bolt.

Start: Start from near the R-hand end of the bouldering traverse, about 5m R of Kaa.

Underrated and sustained. Graded 27 for many years although Simon originally thought it was 28. Some people love it and some people hate it. Six u-bolts and an exciting runout at the finish. The last bolt was added ten years after the first ascent to stop a potential 14m fall!

Climbs Garry's old project up and left from third bolt on Weak Boy past a cool boulder. Was a bolting (and glueing?) controversy, with a dodgy SIKA hold.

Start: Start as for 'Weak Boy'.

Very hard single crux move. 'Campus' slopy rails. One of the best 'lines' at Spurt. Four FH's. Nick Sellars tried to rename this route after some obscure Baghdad Cafe cake. The name didn't stick.

Start as for To Catch a Thief (V4) on the two big pockets, link this into Remains of the Sheep (V6). The ledge is out.

Sit start on good holds, head up and right to join the rail before topping out as the landing falls away.

Burning bright.

Start beneath the overhanging corner 20m R of 'The Rubicon'. A burly start leads into the corner which takes you to the roof, which has three manky pitons (and bomber gear). From here there is a tough move at the lip and 2 FHs before the lower off.

This steep and powerful roof looks like fantastic climbing, but unfortunately the bolts have not aged well and it is mostly only 4-5m off the ground requiring care to avoid groundfalls.

Start: Start 25m R of 'Gilgamesh' at the R end of the low rooves.

An 8-move traverse into a big dyno.

Powerful corner climbing at its best. Start about 20m right 'Technorganica' around the right side of the arete. Stick clip the first bolt. Climb starts about 2m right of corner, climb up to horizontal crack, traverse this to gain corner proper. Continually powerful moves up corner to exit it on the left then traverse back right over the top of it to DB lower off. 'Extension' is an open project.

Vague sit-start in the middle of the wall - then up the central line via a small sloping feature and shallow pocket. As fingery as it gets.

Start as for SM, but avoid the pocket and stick to the arête. Slightly contrived, but offers some impressive and committing climbing.

Kyle Meredith-Peck

in a small 'toilet' cave directly behind ammagamma 20m, stand start matched in left pocket, big move right to pocket then directly up to slot, top out through gap in roof. very good could have been done eons ago but couldn't find any history on it.

Start as for Full Cream and make a big throw right to blocky holds trending up to finish at the highest hold on the face. Good and dynamic.

monkeydoing channel

A very tough face.

Start: Start about 15m L of 'Milupa', 10m R of 'Innocent Fool'.`

The well publicised left side of the arch is probably the toughest route in Summerday.

Start: Start beneath the L side of the arch.

The FA was nearly stolen by my younger brother Daniel who fortunately fell off after the crux. Start 3m R of The Fear of Music. The thin face to a very thin and hard boulder to reach the break. Step R a move and take the R side of the headwall to the DRB loweroff. The old carrots and hangers have been replaced with Fixe ringbolts 3 Mar 17

(Is this Slit Your Throat as per http://vicclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Grampians-update.pdf )??

Start up Crouching Leopard Hidden Orchid to the crux then head left to the pocket of the V3-4. You only get the V7 if you traverse into the V3-4 above the side jug and don't use it.

Start as for Vulcan Grip and head left and up increasing in difficulty to a final mono before popping to the welcome jug

Excellent climbing with a very technical finish. One of the only Scott Camps projects that he actually managed to get up!

Starts as league of Nations, Goes into UN, then finishes as good fight direct. Some linkups are pretty lame, but imho this is f#cking ace.

Bloody hard finish which can be done two ways.

Start: Line of FH's up black seam just to the right of 'Amnesty International'.

Sit start on the right arete on the juggy feature. Make your way up the arete to top out.

Overhung arête right of Minute Man.

Sit start buried in the back of the cave on a good undercling feature.Climb out left through the roof to tricky moves gaining the lip and up the arete and dihedral feature. Glorious line!

Start as for Mr Knox but make hard moves out right of the roof to a slopey rail and follow the obvious line up to the top.

Starts on the large jug on the lefthand corner of the block (facing) and traverses right along the sloping lip to a final mantle for the finger pocket up on the slab.

Sit start on the left side of the slot (of Green Destiny). Climb straight up the face on crimps to a slopey top out over a potentially back-breaking landing.

On boulder opposite Faux Magnum. Sit start on the low sloping rail and do a subtle (hard) mantle onto the slab.

Definitely gets fear grades, hardest part is the bottom couple of metres. Top is committing, but pretty positive. A decent pad on the upper rock, plus a spotter, makes the move that much easier.

Uhuru

Sit start at a small edge and pinch. Climb the pocketed wall, gently heading left and up.

Start as for French Toast but head to small pockets and up right to top out.

Beautiful highball face.

S1m1an

Powerful crimping.

s1m1an

Sit start on a LH pocket and a RH big sloper/slot. Climb straight out via pockets and slopers to top out stood on the slab.

The shortest of the traverse variants. From the same start as RM exit early via a dyno to the chicken head.

Kyle Meredith-Peck

Outstanding arete with some very technical moves. Rebolted 2011 (thank goodness).

Start: 10m L of 'Clicke Crack' is the scarily exposed traverse which leads left to the main section 'Clicke Wall'. Start just L of the scary bit, under the L side of the obvious short arete.

[Not drawn on topo] Start as for Gripmaster, then head right towards Sesame Super 'Highway' via slopey pinches to a jug on the corner. Like it's harder relation - very conditions dependant.

Sit start at Spanking the Monkeybars.

Big move L along the rail to decent edges. Hold on tight and move through pockets in the roof to match on the slopey lip.

Sit-start on the horizontal on the right-side of the cave and head up via a sidepull and pinch to the slopers. Dyno for the flat-top jug to finish. Originally given V6.

Ryan

Uhuru Channel static finish!

A lowish traverse, sit starting on some flat holds down to the right hand side of the boulder. Pull moves left to some under-cut crimps then up to gain a side pull to top out.

Low sit-start on jugs to a big move for a bad sloper. Crux is gaining the sharp 3-finger pocket, one way or another.