Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Start: Massive L facing corner 90m L of IG

1. 38m (10) Grassy, lichenous corner passing broken area on L then up chimney.

2. 32m (10) Up chimney exiting R to corner. Finish up tight chimney above.

Nothing royal about this

Start: Below a buttress with a distinctive triangular roof.

1. 22m (10) Up broken rock into corner and up to small stance.

2. 13m (10) Chimney to small ripply wall.

3. 9m (10) Chimney L of wall to top of pinnacle. Up wall to top.

About 10m R of WW starting on top of the platform 8m higher. Take crack up R side of short pillar and continue up through bulge to foot of large chimney. Climb R arete of chimney.

40m R of HMSV [and clearly visible from the top of it] is a steep jamcrack up the R wall of a gully. About 6m L of 'Little Willy'.

Start: The original description said 'A track from the car park crosses the cutting near the N end and goes NE to the ridge. From the start of this track above the cutting go S to cliff above car park, L of 3rd gully'. So the climbs are somewhere on the cliffs visible from the car park? Who knows?

1. 12m (-) Climb corner 7m L of middle chimney [Dodo]

2. 13m (-) Corner to scrubby ledge.

3. 5m (12) L front of boulder

50m left of descent is a wall with two corners. Shallow corner in arête left of chimney and right of another corner.

Distinctive off-width mentioned in guidebook.

Z-shaped corner-crack 10m right of where cliff breaks down.

The arete and wall on the right end of the cliff above the col behind green gap pinnacle. Start about 40m down and west of the col.

Up corner left of I Can Smell Something Burning, veering right.

Right of The Soul Cages is the descent gully. Predatory Pussy is 4m right of this, the left one of two cracks.

Climb crack just right of cave on first wall up from the Portiere. Left to line in main wall. Left and up corner.

Left-leaning line on next wall up left of the Portiere.

The tiered, orange corner up and left of the first outcrop reached. Step right on to arete below orange roof. Up corners and small wall.

1. Ramp left of Sunspot to corner. Veer right up corners, then left to ledge.

2. 4m left to corner-crack. Up.

Seam on front of next buttress above New Chum Hill. Finish up V-corner.

Corner at left end of gully.

Chimney in middle of next buttress up and left from 'Dreaming of Bulges'. Finish up left.

Up to sloping ledge on front of buttress. Up wall.

Orange corner on left side of face. Finish up face on right.

Corner on right side of prominent, grey buttress with dog-leg crack in its left.

Located in the gully of 'White Woman' (16). You can either scramble up on the left hand side of the gully to reach the start of White Woman, or take this route on the right hand side as the 1st pitch and White Woman as the 2nd.

Facing White Woman from the main path, walk uphill on the right hand side until you reach a chimney, about 8 m high. Start climbing the chimney until you reach the ledge (grade 9). Nice splits with good protection. Then head to the left and up to the start of White Woman (very easy climbing).

Interesting all the way. Well protected. "it's not quite a muffin, it's not quite a cookie - it's a mookie" (Ambia Scott)

Start: About 100m left of the 'Death Threat' buttress is a nice grey buttress (lowest point of the cliff) which faces 'Red Chilli Nights'. 'Mookie' starts about 5-10m from the lowest left hand blunt arete and a nice corner. You should be able to see the chains at the end.

This is almost certainly an earlier version of 'Prince Albert'.

Start: Start on the back of Bomenya (?) on the southwest edge. Climb up over a couple of sloping ledges and then crossover to the southeast side and follow the crack to the summit.

The crack line on the left side of Tellumis Buttress (ca 40m back of Prince Albert). At a stance step right, then back left under the overhang. Rap Anchor at the top.

A fun trad corner of bridging and jamming with good gear. Starts off the belay of Namarron and heads up the obvious corner above. Take a reasonable rack (probably best to haul it up after leading Namarron).

The left facing corner. Follow the corner crack to the ledge. A harder finish (about grade 15) is to continue from the ledge through the crack in the large boulder on the ledge.

Left arete of the vertical wall just north of P.B and J

Can descend from 1st pitch by rope traversing 5 metres to DRB above RRCC.

The first ascent of this cliff, long and wandering climb. Starts 50m L of Vertical Groove in R of face, near a small (now dead) tree close to the cliff.

A fantastic outing up a good line with good gear and pretty good quality rock (for a new route!). Starts on the lower side of the buttress, on the RHS at a steep crack. Up this and into the corner where you will be rewarded with lots of fun, interesting, sustained bridging for the grade with good gear. Pitch at the ledge (about 25m) or continue on to the top.

Located at GPS points S37 11.365 E142 16.268 @ 510m above sea level.

1: starting 15 metres left of Nose Hairs climb direct up slab/ramp to left side of roof at half height (40m)

2: Traverse out left and up over bulge easily and up and right joining into Nose Hairs for summit.

Start in an alcove behind a tree at the very lower left corner of Jimmy John's. Climb up and right toward the arete, belaying in the low angle rock. Continue toward the arete and over a small roof, into the nose hairs, belaying on the arete after passing the steep section above the roof. Continue up the arete to the top of Jimmy John's.

A steep jug haul up the right-hand tower.

Only worthwhile crack and is on left side of a steep, clean wall. Scramble up to a terrace to start. Climb crack and abseil from tree.

Start a little left of where the track reaches the cliff just before it breaks up into gullies, at the left edge of an easy face below the left edge of orange overhangs at 15 metres.

Up the face with a bulge at 7 metres to the line immediately left of the overhangs and up to ledge at 30 metres. Continue up the steeper corner to a large sloping ledge. Either go left to the rap anchor for "Contact" or continue and on up the face to terrace.

20 metre abseil to terrace to east (will have to leave a sling) and descend gully.

Follow prominent sharp arete that is 10m to the west of Mailorder Bribe. Some loose blocks and fragile rock, but otherwise a nice line. Can be done in one long pitch or split into two pitches.

Up the wall to diagonal ramp under the impressive headwall. Right along ramp then up chimney.

Start: About 50 metres left of "Carousel" the track swings up under an east-facing wall. Scramble up to the left end.

Start: Chimney line, second line on left from where the cliff is reached.

The clean corner at the L end of the slab.

Start: About 250—300m L of the main 'bowl' is a smooth recessed slab, bounded by corners at both ends. There you will find this route.

Up the crack and L-facing corner above. David Brereton, James McIntosh Nov 91.

Start: The central line on the wall, above the highest point of the huge detached block.

The L of the two obvious cracks just around L of 'Bowled Out'. Climb the crack for about 10m. Traverse easily L to finish up the arête. Abseil off.

Start 15m R of 'Ancient Times'. 1) 30m Follow the delightful arête. 2) 30m Climb the flake to the roof, L (brittle) into gully and up.

Corner to the roof, go left for 3 metres then straight up the wall.

Start: Start at the corner-crack below the roof at the left end of the right buttress.

Up line to arete, follow the arete to the horizontal break, traverse left (continuing up arete from break is grade 14) then to top.

Start: Start at the diagonal 2 metres from the left arete of the little wall..

The chimney.

Start: The large right facing corner left of "Kava Boy"

Crack in left wall of chimney until crack ends. Chimney, or face climb arête, then exit onto left wall, finishing steeply under branch of gum tree.

Start: Start at chimney left of buttress left of "Queen of Der".

Steep bucket-pulling with some brittle chicken-heads.

Start: Start at toe of semi-detached pinnacle.

Climb the right side of the recessed ramp and wall up left of the chasm.

Go diagonally right up the juggy grassland to slightly awkward exit up right-leading crack.

Start 15 metres right of The Height of Darkness and follow grassy middle crackline left until it runs out. Finish up 1 metre right of The Height Of Darkness. Belay off chicken heads.

Two meters left of 'Cindy' is a broken chimney which splits the slab in half. Start 1-2m left of this chimney (5m left of Cindy) and follow the cracks in the slab before weaving through the tufts of grass above. A tricky start with minimal gear quickly gives way to very easily protected if occasionally mossy climbing.

Climb the left hand arête past 4 FH to anchors.

Enjoyable, easy ramble. To get off - back climb down and right to step onto huge rock (which forms the right hand side of the aforementioned tunnel/cave). *Tricky Bouldering to get off this on the south side, or very exposed nth side (not recommended).

Start: Starts just right of "Counting Your X Before They Hatch", just left of small cave/tunnel at detached block leaning onto face.

The very L side of the wall has distinctly easier ground. This route takes the line of least resistance across L and above the void to a steep finish on good holds.

Quite nice. As for 'Notre Dame' but straight up and through the steepness at the major break.

Arete right of I Need My Mother.

P1 (20m, 12) Chimney right of Oh, Hum. Up initial chimney, traverse left above overhang and into amazing cave P2 (20m, 12) Out on to nose and up crack and wall above.

There are three diagonal lines right of "X Marks The Spot". Start below a small, curved roof. The line, stepping left at the top.

Start at the chimney just left (south) of The Gallery chasm. Up the chimney on doubtful rock to the left arete.

Starts in the middle of the wall off a flake. Straight up then veer left.

Left arete from middle terrace

Face right of 'Vukovar'

Layback, then face right of 'Consequential'

Start just right of Acting The Goat From the right end of the cave, climb straight up to a vee-notch.

There is (or was?) a slender gum growing in front of the cliff. Climb the front of the obvious rib between two chasms.

Climb the greyish rib on the right side of the most compact slab area. Continue easily up cracks and jugs.

Climb the laid-back arete right of gully to finish through overlap.

Very featured crack directly opposite "Skullcracker" with nice jugs to finish.

The easiest way to the halfway ledge and also the descent route. Start at the top of the little saddle. Climb from the top of the saddle to the ledge. There is one runner.

Probably the best of the easy climbs here but, again, not well-protected.

Start: Start 45 metres left of the saddle, 15 metres left of the dirty corner.

The Wall of large knobs has a smooth grey central section; star directly below this. Up to and tending left across the smooth section and then back right to pull through roof at 30m, then up.

20 metres right of Cailaf is a grey arete with dull orange streaks in upper wall. Start 2 metres left of arete and go up to rooflet at 30m. Swing right on excellent holds around the arete and up.

Not sure where this is in relation to Spanish Bombs.

1. 30m (9) Stepped corner which bounds righthand side of 'Fragile Feelings' wall to big ledge.

2. 7m (9) Cross slot to juggy right wall then up.

Not clear how this relates to the other climbs hereabouts. Start 40 metres right of The Swages Of Sin at a small wall. Up line 2 metres left of corner at right and join corner above vegetation. Up to ledge then up on jugs.

Crack and chimney leading to righthand end of roof system.

1. 27m Up crack to roof then up diagonally right across wall on good holds then up arete to large ledge.

2. 28m Up.

The right arete of the buttress with a very exposed second pitch.

Start: At the left hand end of the cliff below the right arete of a large buttress with a huge triangular roof high up. Start in a cave under a leaning block.

1. 24m (9) Up short wide crack and move right over block to arete. Up, bypassing roof via right wall. Traverse left above roof onto front of buttress to belay stance at continuation of original crack.

2. 44m (9) Climb initial overhang at crack then up wall trending left until angle eases. Now follow arete right and up to the Visor (run-out). Staright up headwall above visor to poor ti-tree anchors at top.

A pleasant climb up the corner to the left of the great blank wall.

1. 35m (9) Climb the corner and belay somewhere.

2. 30m (9) Continue up the corner to a ledge beneath a steep wall.

3. 15m (9) Take the left-hand crack to the top.

Another big arete. Start as for 'The Wizard Of Id'.

1. 35m (-) Crux. Up 'The Wizard Of Id' for a few metres then the thin crack up the vertical arete on the right. Belay on a tiny stance on the left at the top of the crack, 3 metres below a roof on the arete.

2. 19m (-) Continue up past the roof. About 3 metres above the roof, a horizontal dyke forms an overlap with a foot-ledge above it. Pull onto the ledge and traverse right to the arete. Up easily to belay stance.

3. 25m (-) Easily up.

A pleasant first pitch.

Start: Start in the corner 10 metres right of 'Black Knight'.

1. 33m (12) Climb the corner for 20 metres and then traverse 2 metres right and up into the chimney line. Continue to a belay.

2. 40m (-) Continue up the line for 20 metres and then step right into a broken chimney which is climbed to a steep, juggy wall. Belay with care.

3. 27m (12) Continue up the steep wall.