Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||
6b | ★ Human Frality
1
6a+
20m
2
6a+
22m
3
6b
20m
4
6b
30m
Trad climb, which was used to open 'Humanality'. Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1995 | 92m, 4 | |||
6b | ★★ I No Speak England
Starts at the platform of the Freedom Bar. Crux is right at the start. 5 stainless steel glue-in bolts, 6 slings. Set: Han, 2006 | 25m, 11 | |||
6b | ★★ Cowabungalow
The leftmost line on the terrace right of 'Humanality'. All titanium bolts. Set: Will Hair, 1994 | 25m, 7 | |||
6b | ★ For You & For Me
Crawling through the corner on the very left side of the roof. Careful, anchors not equipped with rings. Do not lower through the slings! 1 titanium bolts, 6 slings. Set: Dean Saydom, 1994 | 8m, 7 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Iguana Park | |||||
6b | ★ Sex C Plus
| ||||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Dum's Kitchen | |||||
6b | ★★ Son thoi
Share start with Schlingel Max, then turn left to anchor of No Name. FA: Hanh Le | ||||
6b | ★ Schlingel Max
Interesting crux on polished rock. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Michael Hoffmann, 1992 | 15m, 6 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Tyrolean Wall | |||||
6b | ★ Tyrosine
Horribly chipped route. High 2nd bolt. Starts next to a tree. Using the tree lowers the grade. | ||||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Tiger Wall | |||||
6b UK:E6 | Bugger Your Neighbour
1
5c
2
6b
3
5c
4
6a
5
6a
Trad climb (E2, E5, E5, E4, E6), starting on the very right of 'Tiger Wall', into the obvious corner. See the 'Thailand and Laos Rock Climbing Guidebook' by Elke Schmitz (Basecamp Ton Sai) for a complete description. Set: Patrick Hammond & Dan Smith, 1999 | 140m, 5 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Eagle Wall Left Side | |||||
6b | ★★ Asian Invasion
Shares the first three bolts with 'Australian Invasion', then goes a bit to the right under the roof. | 2 | |||
6b | ★★ Made in Spain
Up a sharp slab, following the seam to the top. 3 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Set: Laurent Sarthe & Rosa Alvarez, 1998 | 20m, 6 | |||
6b | ★★ Desayuno de Nono
The middle line starting from the belay ledge. Titanium bolts and slings. Set: Laurent Sarthe & Rosa Alvarez, 1998 | 30m, 13 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Eagle Wall Main Face | |||||
6b | ★★ Lost in Space
On the wall left of the 'Where Eagles Don't Dare' corner. 3 titanium bolts, 4 slings. Set: Wee Changrua, 1998 | 25m, 7 | |||
6b | ★★ Speaking out Loud
All titanium bolts. Set: R. D. Smith, 1998 | 30m, 12 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Cobra Wall | |||||
6b | ★ Old Snake
Starts on top of the boulder. 2 titanium bolts, 6 slings. Beware. The last “thread” is slung around a dead tree that rattles in the crack. A fall from here would be serious. Set: Wee Changrua, 2001 | 22m, 8 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Melting Wall | |||||
6b | ★ The Northern Bird
FA: Sam Lightner Jr. & Louise Whitehead, 2005 | 20m, 4 | |||
6b | ★ Captain Hook
Shares the anchor with 'Right Hand of Buddha'. 3 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Tom Cecil & Chris Carr, 1996 | 15m, 5 | |||
6b | ★ Right Hand of Buddha
Shares the anchor with 'Captain Hook'. 4 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Greg Collum & Tom Cecil, 1996 | 15m, 5 | |||
6b | ★ Melting Pot
Second pitch of either 'Captain Hook' or 'Right Hand of Buddha'. 3 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: R. Bernard, I. Turnbull & Andy F., 1996 | 10m, 4 | |||
6b | ★ Doing the Trad
Shares the anchor with 'Captain Hook' and 'Right Hand of Buddha' to allow toprope access. Set: Jim Yoder & Mark Miner, 1996 | 15m | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Shadow Wall | |||||
6b | Domingo
Alternative second pitch of 'Bouts D'Nouilie'. Old slings. Do not climb! Set: Alex & Romano, 2003 | 18m, 6 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Fire Wall | |||||
6b | ★ Chicken Muscle
Shares the start with 'Tuna Meltdown', but traverses right. All titanium bolts. Set: Greg Collum & Larissa Collum, 1996 | 33m, 12 | |||
6b | ★★ Fire Show (Variation)
Start variation, skipping the bold start by traversing to the right from 'Up in Smoke'. Set: Drew Spaulding, 2001 | 17m, 8 | |||
6b | ★★ Boobtube
Another great long line with a tricky 3D crux in the small roof. 7 titanium bolts, 5 slings. Set: Shamick Byszewski, Tanja & Heidi, 1999 | 30m, 12 | |||
6b | ★★ Polish-Czech
Second pitch of 'The Groove Tube'. A few meters straight up from the belay ledge then traverse to the left. Rarely climbed and not rebolted with titanium. 2 stainless steel glue-ins, 7 slings, which might need replacement. Set: Shamick Byszewski, 1999 | 20m, 9 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Cat Wall | |||||
6b | ★ Devil Cat
Starts left of the main ledge. All titanium bolts. Set: Shamick Byszewski & David, 2001 | 23m, 8 | |||
6b | ★★ The Cat and the Cobra
Good warm-up. Starts left of the main ledge. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Shamick Byszewski & Mary Lee, 1997 | 20m, 7 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Sleeping Indian Wall | |||||
6b | ★ Indian Food
Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb! Set: Ramon & Pon Yang Yan, 2000 | 15m, 4 | |||
6b | Indian Shoes
Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb! Set: Ramon & Pon Yang Yan, 2000 | 15m, 4 | |||
6b | Just Climb
Alternative access pitch to the huge multi-pitch cave, leading to the right cave window. Anchors are not equipped. Set: Drew Spaulding, 2010 | 30m | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Monkey World | |||||
6b | ★★ Shoulda Woulda Coulda
1
6a
26m
2
6b
29m
3
6b
27m
New multi-pitch route left of 'Big Wave'. Very sharp rock in some of the easier sections. Not quite as good as 'Big Wave', but definitely a fun climb.
Descend by rapping down the route. Three raps with a 60m rope. This route is so far only listed in the 2019 Pocket RockGUIDE as 'New Route 2019 Jan.'. If you have new information about grade and name, please update (bolts and slings are counted, Mar 2020). Set: Simon Talltorp, 2019 | 82m, 3, 38 | |||
6b | ★★ Big Wave
1
6a+
30m
2
6b
25m
3
6b
26m
4
6b
30m
Shares the start pitch with 'The Beauty & the Beast', then climbs up left for three beautiful and homogeneous pitches.
From the midway anchor of P4 rap down four times with a 60m rope via a line of separate abseil anchors. Set: Tom Cecil & Kathryn Stedham, 2004 | 110m, 4, 33 | |||
6b | ★★ The Beauty & the Beast
1
6a+
30m
2
6a+
25m
3
6b
30m
4
6b
3rd pitch is the beauty, 1st pitch is the beast. The second pitch just connects the two. The first pitch is shared with 'Big Wave'.
From the top of P3, it is also possible to traverse out left, wiggle through a hole in the cave, and finish up on the last pitch of 'Big Wave'. This finish slightly raises the grade, but dramatically increases the fun. Descend by rapping down three times from the anchor of P3 with a 60m rope. Set: Tom Cecil, 2004 Set: Drew Spaulding & Adam Weiner, 2006 | 85m, 4, 28 | |||
6b | ★ Fung Ling
Starts on the right side of the upper belay ledge, left of 'Monkey Bars'. 7 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Tom Cecil & Mark Miner, 2001 | 25m, 9 | |||
6b | Monkey Bars
Starts on the very right of the upper belay ledge. Can also be accessed from the anchor of the first pitch of 'Monkeying Around'. 8 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Tom Cecil & Mark Miner, 2001 | 25m, 9 | |||
6b | ★ Stoned Monkey
The leftmost line on the second ledge. Gives access to the upper belay ledge. 7 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Tom Cecil, 2006 | 30m, 8 | |||
6b | ★★ Chunky Monkey
1
6b
28m
2
6a+
30m
The second line on the lower belay ledge. Great first pitch on steep rock with big holds. It is also possible to linkup the second pitch of 'Curious George'.
Descend by rapping down twice with a 60m rope, back to the belay ledge. Share anchor with Curious George. Set: Tom Cecil & Kathryn Stedham, 2005 | 58m, 2, 18 | |||
6b | ★ Curious George
1
6a
28m
2
6b
30m
The rightmost line on the lower belay ledge. Enjoyable double-pitch, especially the second pitch.
Descend by rapping down twice with a 60m rope, back to the belay ledge. Share anchor with Chunky Monkey. Set: Tom Cecil & Kathryn Stedham, 2005 | 58m, 2, 18 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Temple Boulder Cave | |||||
V2 | ★ Blowing Red Ants
| ||||
V1 | Shallow Water Crawl
| ||||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Tom's Cave & 4:20 Wall | |||||
6b | Bubble Boy
9 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Bubble Boy, 2014 | 18m, 11 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai The Nest & Wild Kingdom | |||||
6b | ★ Wacky Weed
6 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Tom Cecil & Mark Miner, 2001 | 23m, 8 | |||
6b | ★★ Dozer Days P2
Gives access to 'The Golden Bowl' sector. 2 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Tom, Tom Cecil & Mark Miner, 2001 | 10m, 3 | |||
6b | ★ Kitty Toe | 15m, 5 | |||
6b | ★ Techno-Bug
3 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Tom Cecil & Mark Miner, 2001 | 15m, 4 | |||
6b | ★ Breezes of the Past P1
4 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Set: Mark Miner & Tom Cecil, 2000 | 18m, 7 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Marley Wall | |||||
6b | ★★ Kaya
9 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Tom Cecil, 2006 | 25m, 11 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Resort Cave | |||||
6b | Brösel
Leftmost line right of the cave. Old rusty expansion bolts and slings. Do not climb! Set: Melli, 2008 | 20m | |||
6b | Copyright!
Old rusty expansion bolts and slings. Do not climb! Set: Wee Changrua, 2008 | 20m | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Sunset Wall | |||||
6b | Sunset wall traverse
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6b | Italy corner
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Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Thaiwand Wall | |||||
6b | ★★★ Hiroshi's Revenge
Starts on Organ Grinder, then continues up, via tufa onto the wall. Mix of titanium bolts and slings. Set: Rock and Sun, Mar 2019 FA: Rock and Sun, Mar 2019 | 26m | |||
6b | ★★ Monkey Love
Exposed line through the tufa system. All slings. Set: Greg Collum & Larissa Collum, 1992 Maint: Rock and Sun, Jan 2023 | 25m, 7 | |||
6b | ★★ Maja Mujer
This is the wrong name and the route is already listed here as “Mala Mujer”. I tried to merge them since you can’t delete the route but the option is not possible from my account. FA: Pep Masip, 1995 | 32m, 13 | |||
6b | ★★ Mala Mujer
Good vertical climb on tufas and big holds. 9 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Set: Pep Masip, 1995 | 30m, 12 | |||
6b | ★★ The Sluggard Prince
1 expansion bolt, 12 slings. Share anchor with Sanuked. Set: Gordon Brysland & Olle Welin, 1994 | 28m, 13 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Wee's Present Wall | |||||
6b | John's White Shirt
Old slings and expansion bolts. Do not climb unless rebolted! Set: Wee Changrua, 2002 | 20m, 7 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Lap Lair | |||||
6b | Louk Lub
Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb unless rebolted! Set: Dean Saydom & Soley Ohbhut, 1996 | 20m, 7 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Muay Thai | |||||
6b | ★★ Bad Boy
Shares the start with 'Nuat Hin' and Pattica Samupade. Then straight up after the 3rd clip. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Wee Changrua & Ratd, 2002 | 15m, 7 | |||
6b | ★★ Deborah
Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb! Set: Jack Werajack, 1996 | 8m, 3 | |||
6b | ★ Alone
5 titanium bolts, 2 slings Set: Jack Werajack, 1996 | 15m, 7 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay One-Two-Three | |||||
6b | ★★ Massage Secrets
1
5
13m
2
6a+
17m
3
6b
7m
Only P1 and P2 can be climbed. P3 is on old expansion bolts and climbs on loose rock.
Set: Francois Burnier & Dominique Potard, 1990 Set: Dean Saydom, 1990 | 37m, 3, 13 | |||
6b | ★★ Short and Savage
Short climb up the steep face. Titanium bolts. Set: Unknown, 1997 | 8m, 2 | |||
6b | ★ Be Careful
Share anchor with Long Live the Herm Set: Jack, 1996 | 8m, 2 | |||
6b | Hello Tu
1
6a
27m
2
6b
28m
Set: Laurent Sarthe & Rosa Alvarez, 1999 | 55m, 2, 19 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Hidden World | |||||
6b | ★ Space Head Gone Ape
All titanium bolts. Set: S. Beverage & Ian Turnbull, 1995 | 11m, 5 | |||
6b | ★ Satanic Alliance
Reachy start. Crux badly protected. 3 stainless steel glue ins, 1 titanium glue in at the crux. Set: Duncan, 1994 | 17m, 5 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Kochel Rock | |||||
6b | With You, Liebelein
Old stainless steel glue-in bolts. Do not climb until rebolted! Set: Wee Changrua & Elke Schmitz, 1999 | 12m, 5 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay The Keep | |||||
6b | ★★ Gengis Bond
Great 3D climbing with good rests up a series of stalactite features. It's long, make sure you have enough rope and tie a knot in the end of your rope. 13 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1995 | 32m, 15 | |||
6b | ★ Monkey's Bum
First climb as you enter 'The Keep'. Move up slimy tufas, then continue up. Awful anchor placement. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1995 | 20m, 7 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Castle Wall | |||||
6b | Hard-Headed Woman
Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb! Share anchor with Bad and Beware. Set: Duncan, 1994 | 25m, 9 | |||
6b | Bad and Beware
Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb! Share anchor with Hard-Headed Woman. Set: Duncan, 1994 | 26m, 8 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Low Tide Wall | |||||
6b | ★ Low Tide
1
6b
20m
2
6b
25m
Crux at the start harder than graded.
Set: Ralf Tenbrink & Somporn Suebhait, 1992 | 45m, 2, 17 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Diamond Cave | |||||
6b | ★★ Jugs-o-Plenty
Old expansion bolts. Do not climb! Set: Paul Brunner, 1997 | 27m, 5 | |||
6b | ★★ IKRC-2008
Start climbing the No name 1, but then take the right bolt line to the higher anchor. Set: Tu & Toto, 2008 | 30m, 12 | |||
6b | ★★ No Name 2
Rightmost line on the main face. Confused with 'Les Petites Oreilles' in some guidebooks. Not rebolted with titanium. Stainless steel glue-ins. | 20m, 4 | |||
6b | Unknown | 27m | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Amphitheater | |||||
6b | Estata una Fortuna
Variation of 'Paradise' and Amphitheater, veers right towards the end to a higher anchor. Old slings. Be prepared to replace. Set: J. L Jubert, E. D'Angelo & M. Ghibhaudo, 2002 | 28m, 5 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Gwaht Lan | |||||
6b | ★★ Stairway to Paradise
1
6b
25m
2
6b
25m
A worthy excursion. Good fun climbing in a nice location. Double-pitch, rebolted with titanium.
Set: Dean Saydom & Bow Obhut, 1994 | 50m, 2, 11 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Bat Cave | |||||
6b | Tai Don't Die
Titanium bolts and slings. Set: Tai Meewut & Ryan Johnston, 2011 | 10 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Phra-Nang Beach | |||||
6b | ★★ Top-Roped
Climbs uo right of 'Back to Mani', all the way to the top of the pillar, sharing anchor with 'Money Maker'. No bolts, climb toprope. | 22m | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay The Defile | |||||
6b | ★ Baboon's Ass
4 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Frank Dicker & Volker Schoeffl, 1990 Set: Ilja Bangma & Joost Blom, 2000 | 12m, 5 | |||
6b | ★ Monkey Gone to Heaven
All titanium bolts. Set: Sash Nukada & Robbie Williams, 1995 | 12m, 5 | |||
6b | Toni's Mind
Right of 'Monkey Gone to Heaven', sharing anchors. No bolts, toprope. Set: Rob Cooke, 1996 | 12m | |||
6b | Kum Jai (Variation)
Climb 'Kum Jai', but then go left to the anchors of 'Khao Pat Gai'. Set: Francois Burnier, Dominique Potard, Dominique & Dominiqu Potard, 1990 | 12m, 5 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Escher World | |||||
6b | ★★ Ribbed For Her Pleasure
Left of 'Short and Easy'. No bolts. Climb on toprope. Set: Cyro Glad, 1993 | 13m | |||
6b | ★ Soley Action 1
Starts between the two caves a meter to the right of 'The Playground'. Share start with Mei Rue Arei. 5 slings. Has its own anchor. Set: Soley Ohbhut, 2000 | 15m, 5 | |||
6b | ★ Mei Rue Arei
Direct start from the cave or start as per 'Soley Action 1' or 'Humming Song' if it's too wet. Finishes on its own anchor a meter above and right of 'Soley Action 1'. 3 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Soley Ohbhut, 2000 | 16m, 5 | |||
6b | ★★ Humming Song (Left Variation)
Start on 'Humming Song' and go left after the second clip. Follow the slings and bolts until the last bolt and join the anchor of 'Humming Song'. There is a nice direct start clipping the first sling from the cave. If the sling is removed, consider doing the start as per 'Humming Song'. | 15m, 6 | |||
6b | ★★ Humming Song
Climb on the corner and goes straight to the anchor at the right of the tree. 3 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Share start with Scorpion. Set: Will Hair, 1994 | 15m, 6 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Koh Rang Kai | |||||
6b | Unknown 1 | ||||
Krabi Mainland Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain The Lounge | |||||
6b | ★★ Baby Foot
Short line starting on tufas at the very left up the small hill. All titanium bolts. | 10m, 7 | |||
Krabi Mainland Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain The Mezzanine | |||||
6b | ★★ Exfoliation
The leftmost line, starting from the boulder. Tricky technical line. All titanium bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022) Set: Fred & Bob, 2011 | 20m, 11 | |||
Krabi Mainland Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain The Ego Free Zone | |||||
6b | ★★ Buzzsaw
Same start as Seesaw, up the black slab, take LEFT hand line to finish. Shares anchors with Seesaw. Set: Mike & Lawrence, 2011 | 20m, 7 | |||
6b | ★ Mad Skills
Shares anchors with 'Zac Attack'. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Mike & Lawrence, 2011 | 16m, 7 | |||
Krabi Mainland Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain Machete Wall | |||||
6b | ★★ Fixe
Right of Send train. Boulder style start. FA: Rock and Sun, Mar 2019 Set: Rock and Sun, Mar 2019 | 15m | |||
6b | ★★ French Free
Set: Micheal Weitzmann | 11m | |||
Krabi Mainland Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain The Far Side | |||||
6b | ★★★ Completely Harmless
Set: Dennie Vester, 2023 | 18m, 10 | |||
Krabi Mainland Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain Hoi Cave | |||||
6b | ★★ Pac Man
Left traversing route, really fun climbing, and friendly bolting. Set: DnD & Dakota Walz, 27 Feb FA: Dakota Walz, 6 Mar | 8 | |||
Krabi Mainland Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain Hearth Cave | |||||
6b | ★★ Flying Snake
The middle extension of either 'Round the Outside' or 'Chong Phli Posse'. Shares the start with 'Stone Rider' and Fin de Chalam, then straight up. 29m to the ground. 6 slings. FA: Mike, Simon & Ryan, 2010 | 18m, 6 |