England Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. England 39,759 routes in Region

2 1 3 5 4

1 Peak District 2 Northern England 3 Midlands 4 South-West England 5 South East England

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 52.774502, -1.840212

1.1. Peak District 14,123 routes in Region

2 3 1

1 Peak District Limestone 2 Western Gritstone 3 Eastern Gritstone

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.341061, -1.797008

1.1.1. Peak District Limestone 3,559 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.209268, -1.735191

summary

One of the best climbing locations in the UK with plenty of sport and traditional climbing areas.

description

Located in the Peak District, consisting of natural limestone cliffs and huge abandoned quarries. Some famous (Eye of the Tiger) hard trad test pieces and one of the world's first 9a (Hubble) routes are located here.

access issues

For up-to-date access information please visit the BMS RAD database. https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/

approach

Train - Matlock, Chesterfield, and Sheffield are all well serviced. Car - Same cities are all well serviced via the M1 motorway, the local roads up to the crags are all very reasonable and scenic.

where to stay

Plenty of B&B and hotels in the area. Youth hostel (YHA) is available in Matlock, Eyam, Ilam and Ravenstor.

ethic

Being a national park, consult the local guide books and the regional access database for any closures. As usual, Nesting birds, and protected flora should be preserved. Some crags are on Private land, and therefore act reasonably if asked to leave.

history

Hugely important crag.Seminal ascents by Moon, Moffat, Mcclure etc.A mecca for hard sport and bouldering.

1.1.2. Western Gritstone 4,489 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.472191, -1.898135

1.1.3. Eastern Gritstone 6,070 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.255838, -1.616095

1.2. Northern England 16,223 routes in Region

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 54.518786, -1.994209

description

Except https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/united-kingdom/england/peak-district.

1.2.1. Yorkshire 8,730 routes in Region

Summary:

Rock climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.857493, -1.359412

description

Except https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/united-kingdom/england/peak-district.

1.2.2. Cumbria 5,993 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 54.574702, -2.944445

1.2.3. Lancashire 99 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.852654, -2.630965

1.2.4. Greater Manchester 151 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.534158, -2.304071

description

The area around Manchester, roughly a half an hour drive.

1.2.5. Tyne and Wear and Durham 461 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 54.768133, -1.568666

1.2.6. Northumberland 775 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.251243, -2.021037

1.2.7. The Wirral 0 routes in Region

summary

Sandstone esoterica

1.2.8. Cheshire 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.332915, -2.750623

summary

Cheshire's very own bouldering wall

description

Great venue with lots of potential

access issues

None

approach

5 minute walk in

where to stay

Liverpool

ethic

No chipping

history

N/A

1.3. Midlands 2,514 routes in Region

33 32 29 30 31 28 8 25 26 27 12 9 17 7 13 20 14 15 18 16 21 3 1 23 24 4 22 5 19 6 2 11 10

1 Shropshire 2 Markfield Quarry 3 Hangingstone Quarry 4 Beacon Hill 5 Forest Rock 6 The Brand 7 Charnwood Quarry 8 Staffordshire 9 Cademan Wood and Broad Hill 10 Granitethorpe Quarry 11 Croft Crags 12 Grace Dieu Boulder 13 High Sharpley 14 Ratchet Hill 15 Whitwick Quarry 16 High Tor 17 Blackbrook Reservoir 18 Oaks Pinnacle 19 Bardon Hill 20 The Outwoods 21 Hangstone Rocks 22 Windmill Hill 23 Craig Buddon 24 Mountsorrel Crags 25 Anchor Church Caves 26 Ticknall Lime Yards 27 Carver's Rocks 28 Odeon Quarry 29 Pleasley Vale 30 William Hollins 31 Pleasley Chimney Wall 32 Pleasley Park Quarry 33 Hollin Hill

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 52.696777, -1.491390

summary

Great for when you can't access anywhere else

description

All the random crags between London and the Peak District (https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/united-kingdom/england/peak-district)

history

See http://www.leicesterclimbs.f9.co.uk/Intro.htm#ACK for a detailed area history

1.3.1. Shropshire 227 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.730143, -2.910604

1.3.2. Markfield Quarry 53 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.688089, -1.282952

summary

Markfield Quarry

description

Quarried granite hill with a selection of slabby and steeper routes

access issues

Signage says no climbing, but there is no official ban. Be discrete

approach

Park at the car park directory outside and walk 5 minutes right (shorter) or left around the fence until you see rocks.

There have been multiple complaints of car break-ins on UKClimbing.

1.3.3. Hangingstone Quarry 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.730739, -1.223769

summary

Slate Quarry

1.3.4. Beacon Hill 54 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.728980, -1.248233

1.3.5. Forest Rock 98 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.722215, -1.214358

1.3.6. The Brand 33 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.713939, -1.206565

description

The Brand is the name of the house owned by the Martin family. Over the years a very good relationship with the family has been built up with the local climbing community. This has resulted in there being no problem with people climbing providing they have contacted the family or their land agent, and been given permission.

access issues

Access is strictly limited to parties having permission to climb from the family. You should telephone first and follow the instructions given.

You may or may not be granted permission to climb; this is at the family’s discretion.

You will be asked to park at the house.

Climbers are asked not to destroy the excellent relationship that exists with the family by climbing without permission and leaving litter.

It is useless to trespass because the crag is plainly visible from the house.

The garden is also a Site of Special Scientific Interest because of the rare lichen and fern species situated here.

1.3.7. Charnwood Quarry 0 routes in Crag

1.3.8. Staffordshire 996 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.075983, -1.923713

description

Staffordshire is a county south west of the Peak District National Park. There are both gritstone and limestone crags with bouldering, and both trad and sport routes on good quality rock.

1.3.9. Cademan Wood and Broad Hill 361 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.750908, -1.350864

summary

Tors and boulders of volcanic breccia scattered around Cademan Wood and Broad Hill.

access issues

Cademan Woods has become increasingly popular with climbers, however, this increased traffic is presenting a threat to continued access. Please keep an eye on the access advice on UKC.com which will be more up to date than this guide. Many of the issues that come with increased traffic can be addressed if we park sensibly and pick up any litter found. Climbers need to show that they are having a positive impact on the local environment and community.

1.3.10. Granitethorpe Quarry 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.539010, -1.271738

1.3.11. Croft Crags 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.558257, -1.248605

1.3.12. Grace Dieu Boulder 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.754460, -1.360964

1.3.13. High Sharpley 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.747594, -1.334587

1.3.14. Ratchet Hill 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.742590, -1.340376

1.3.15. Whitwick Quarry 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.739638, -1.341323

1.3.16. High Tor 38 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.738452, -1.328113

1.3.17. Blackbrook Reservoir 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.749875, -1.313548

1.3.18. Oaks Pinnacle 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.739211, -1.309218

1.3.19. Bardon Hill 46 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.713921, -1.319264

1.3.20. The Outwoods 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.744880, -1.240202

1.3.21. Hangstone Rocks 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.732680, -1.227333

1.3.22. Windmill Hill 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.724102, -1.222296

1.3.23. Craig Buddon 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.729469, -1.175780

1.3.24. Mountsorrel Crags 47 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.729016, -1.139563

1.3.25. Anchor Church Caves 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.841629, -1.495674

1.3.26. Ticknall Lime Yards 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.810425, -1.466926

1.3.27. Carver's Rocks 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.800492, -1.510057

1.3.28. Odeon Quarry 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.134306, -1.199995

1.3.29. Pleasley Vale 173 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.181501, -1.211908

1.3.30. William Hollins 24 routes in Unknown

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.179808, -1.228170

1.3.31. Pleasley Chimney Wall 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.178294, -1.229527

1.3.32. Pleasley Park Quarry 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.184799, -1.234305

1.3.33. Hollin Hill 48 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.270352, -1.238837

1.4. South-West England 5,728 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.892858, -3.855621

1.4.1. Somerset 2,125 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.383509, -2.599851

1.4.2. North Devon 58 routes in Region

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.082406, -4.137251

1.4.3. Dartmoor 207 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.567508, -3.930675

1.4.4. South Devon 168 routes in Region

Summary:

Rock climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.425770, -3.747443

1.4.5. Cornwall 210 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.437921, -4.974958

1.4.6. Lundy Heritage Coast 94 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.178289, -4.667579

1.4.7. Gloucestershire 863 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.759581, -2.478527

1.4.8. Dorset 2,001 routes in Region

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.576102, -2.197954

1.4.9. M5 motorway bridge 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.688289, -3.482886

1.5. South East England 1,171 routes in Region

Summary:

Top roping and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.175914, -0.068323

1.5.1. Upnor, Rochester 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.296914, 0.432136

1.5.2. Kent 1,155 routes in Area

Summary:

Top roping and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.106527, 0.128743

1.5.3. Greater London 15 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.506426, -0.029833

1.5.4. Saltdean 0 routes in Crag

summary

Careful climbing on chalk cliffs with axes and crampons

1.5.5. Boulder Brighton 0 routes in Gym

description

http://www.boulderbrighton.com

1.5.6. Craggy Island 0 routes in Gym

description

http://www.craggy-island.com

1.5.7. Eastbourne, DOP 136 suite, BN21 2UD 0 routes in Boulder

description

Wall of the section 136 suite which has the door and window on it. Route start at either end of wall and finishes at the other side. Left to right is far easier than right to left.

approach

Entry with police via a section 136

history

Previously used to cage ill people.