Peak District Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Peak District 14,123 routes in Region

2 3 1

1 Peak District Limestone 2 Western Gritstone 3 Eastern Gritstone

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

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A

S

O

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Seasonality

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.341061, -1.797008

1.1. Peak District Limestone 3,559 routes in Crag

17 22 48 7 4 5 47 3 6 46 45 9 27 37 31 32 35 36 12 14 34 13 33 49 38 50 8 51 44 52 39 42 41 21 40 43 15 29 30 20 2 10 19 1 16 23 25 24 26 18 53 11

1 Matlock Bath 2 Lorry Park 3 Stoney Middleton 4 Stoney West 5 Horse Thief Quarry 6 Hidden Quarry (Darlton 2) 7 Horseshoe Quarry 8 Staden 9 Ravensdale 10 High Tor 11 Dovedale Valley 12 Raven Tor 13 Water-cum-Jolly 14 Chee Dale 15 Aldery Cliff 16 Wildcat Crags 17 Winnat's Pass 18 Brassington 19 Masson Lees 20 Halldale Quarry 21 Harpur Hill 22 Smalldale 23 Slaley Brook 24 Intake Quarry 25 Harborough Rocks 26 Colehill Quarry 27 Deep Rake 29 Cratcliffe Tor 30 Robin Hood Stride 31 Strawberry Rocks 32 Strawberry Quarry 33 Blackwell Dale 34 Priestcliffe Quarry 35 Squirrel Buttress 36 Raven's Foot Buttress 37 Tideswell Dale 38 Crag X 39 Fossil Wall 40 Lees Bottom 41 The Wave 42 Taddington 43 High Edge Buxton 44 Grinlow Hill (Solomon's Temple) 45 Corbar Cross 46 Cuckoo Tors 47 Buxton Boss 48 Bibbington Quarry 49 Ashwood Dale (Lover's Leap) 50 Beerhouse Buttress 51 Cow Dale (Craig-y-Biceps) 52 Deep Dale 53 Boardwalk Cave

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.209268, -1.735191

summary

One of the best climbing locations in the UK with plenty of sport and traditional climbing areas.

description

Located in the Peak District, consisting of natural limestone cliffs and huge abandoned quarries. Some famous (Eye of the Tiger) hard trad test pieces and one of the world's first 9a (Hubble) routes are located here.

access issues

For up-to-date access information please visit the BMS RAD database. https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/

approach

Train - Matlock, Chesterfield, and Sheffield are all well serviced. Car - Same cities are all well serviced via the M1 motorway, the local roads up to the crags are all very reasonable and scenic.

where to stay

Plenty of B&B and hotels in the area. Youth hostel (YHA) is available in Matlock, Eyam, Ilam and Ravenstor.

ethic

Being a national park, consult the local guide books and the regional access database for any closures. As usual, Nesting birds, and protected flora should be preserved. Some crags are on Private land, and therefore act reasonably if asked to leave.

history

Hugely important crag.Seminal ascents by Moon, Moffat, Mcclure etc.A mecca for hard sport and bouldering.

1.1.1. Matlock Bath 122 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.122306, -1.555793

1.1.2. Lorry Park 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.133174, -1.559505

summary

Wall climbing on an east facing crag of hard, compact limestone.

approach

Park in one of Matlock Bath's pay and display car parks. Roadside parking is limited to one hour.

From the closest pay and display parking between Matlock and Matlock Bath, walk back towards Matlock (north on A6). Just before the railway bridge there is a vehicle entrance on the left. Walk up this road, behind the building and continue into and through the lorry park (about 200m).

The crag is on the right. Find the well used path at the end of a wire fence that takes you into the trees and to the wall.

1.1.3. Stoney Middleton 184 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.278245, -1.671847

summary

Great location for sport and bouldering.Minus 10 wall and Tom's cave hold some very hard problems

description

Easy access and very sheltered

access issues

No issues

approach

Park opposite the garage,in the large layby

where to stay

Local b and b

ethic

No chipping, bbq's,litter.

history

Lots

1.1.4. Stoney West 32 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.280006, -1.679000

summary

A continuation of the main Stoney crag.

description

A crag with both sport and traditional climbing routes. In the Main area, trad and sport routes share lower-offs.

access issues

Not too far from Horse-Thief quarry on the same side of the road, climbing is allowed, with no access issues.

approach

Best to be reached by car. There are laybys on the LHS of the road as approaching from Stoney village. The crag is on the same side right-hand side as Horse-Thief and Horseshoe quarry, cross the road and follow the well-trodden path.

history

First ascents by Gary Gibson and Paul Mitchell.

1.1.5. Horse Thief Quarry 20 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.279260, -1.684845

summary

A small quarry with 20 routes ranging from 4c to 7a. It is sunny until late afternoon and the rock dries quickly.

description

Not as big as its neighbors but it's a nice place to tick a lot of routes in the 5-6 grade.

access issues

No issues.

approach

Driving from Stoney village, just before the main car park at Horseshoe quarry there is a small layby, leave your car there and cross the road through the woods where you will find the quarry. (less than 2 minutes of walk).

Beware of crossing the road, the road is busy and the layby is just at the bend of the road. It's better and safer to walk up a little bit to the straight bit of the road, then cross to the other side.

where to stay

Plenty of B&B in the nearby villages.

history

Bolted, and first ascents by Gary Gibson. Please support his work at: https://www.sportclimbs.uk/

1.1.6. Hidden Quarry (Darlton 2) 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.276677, -1.683379

summary

Another huge abandoned quarry, opposite of Horseshoe, and Horse thief quarries.

description

Scattered routes of different quality on the lower tier, and a clean headwall with some hard sports routes. Helmet is a must, as well as not standing under your climber when belaying.

access issues

Climbing is tolerated, but refer to BMC rad for up to date access info.

approach

Turn right as you are approaching sit down buttress and follow the path to the lower tier. Headwall is just further up to the left. Park sensibly and leave a passing place free.

history

This is where they filmed parts of the latest mission impossible movie. The train and the bridge is now all cleaned up however.

1.1.7. Horseshoe Quarry 245 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.281407, -1.688430

1.1.8. Staden 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.247707, -1.882895

1.1.9. Ravensdale 86 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.259716, -1.740873

1.1.10. High Tor 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.127985, -1.558106

1.1.11. Dovedale Valley 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.069805, -1.785862

summary

The scenic valley of the river Dove has a few (hard) sport routes and plenty of traditional routes on limestone rock.

description

The land is owned by National Trust and is a very popular tourist destination. The crags are located on either side of the river Dove and for some crags, little scrambling is required to get to the bottom of the routes. The main attractions are Ilam Rock, Reynard Arch, and the Tissington Spires. Climbing on the roadside crags will usually draw some crowd so be aware that you will be on display when climbing these routes.

access issues

No access issues, but observe the BMC RAD database for seasonal restrictions due to nesting birds.

approach

The best (and free) parking spot is at Mill Dale car park, then follow the well-marked tourist path towards Ilam. Alternatively, paid parking is also available at the main Dovedale car park, from there just follow the horde of tourists heading towards the stepping stones.

where to stay

Plenty of B&B in nearby villages, YHA Ilam Hall is also a good option.

history

Climbing has a long history in the valley with first ascents on Ilam Rock recorded at the beginning of the 1900.

1.1.12. Raven Tor 88 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.255649, -1.775439

summary

Lots of potential for new problems hidden in the undergrowth

description

A legendary peak limestone venue.Moffat,Moon,McClure at al

access issues

None.Roadside

approach

Seconds

where to stay

Lots of lovely villages

ethic

No chipping,swearing or nudity

history

Read all about it

1.1.13. Water-cum-Jolly 509 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.253029, -1.748595

summary

Beautiful spot for sport or bouldering.Some very hard stuff,and lots of hidden gems to explore

description

Huge overhanging wall.Very sheltered,dry in any weather.Have a rummage around and you'll find plenty of little unknown gems and projects

access issues

No issues.Popular walking area.

approach

Park on lane,approach via Mill path.

where to stay

B and Bs

ethic

Bolted wall.

history

Vast! Check the guidebooks

1.1.14. Chee Dale 191 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.253222, -1.821735

ethic

Mixture of trad and sport.

1.1.15. Aldery Cliff 44 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.194037, -1.855301

summary

Old, abandoned roadside quarry with plenty of mid-grade slab climbs.

description

Little overgrown and not a very popular limestone crag in the middle of the peak district. Thankfully, there is no rubbish to speak of and a good place at the bottom for a picnic. Most routes (but not all) are now equipped with stainless steel lower-offs, but be prepared. This is a trad venue, and some of the routes on the main slabs are very hard to protect at the first 10 meters.

access issues

No issues, like the Horseshoe quarry, the crag is owned by the BMC. There is a place just under the crag for 3 carefully parked cars.

1.1.16. Wildcat Crags 59 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.115593, -1.559285

1.1.17. Winnat's Pass 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.340505, -1.797685

description

Awesome rock architecture with real adventure feel

approach

Crags on both sides of winnats pass.Real test for car brakes!

1.1.18. Brassington 45 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.090365, -1.675533

description

The climbing area of Brassington is a diminutive but interesting set of towers of high quality magnesian limestone. It is set in a wonderfully pictueresque landscape. Th rock has lots of pockets and can be fairly highly polished in some areas. The area is a little overgrown, with at least one buttress now completely cloaked in vegetation. Despite this, there is some good climbing to be had here, especially on the East Hill where the multi-pitch outings of the various variations on The Long Climb, and the closely-packed routes on the Upper Tier are well worth visiting. The area is also known as Rainster Rocks

1.1.19. Masson Lees 94 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.127823, -1.572090

summary

A secluded limestone quarry 10 minutes away from the road.

description

Limestone quarry with sport routes, a dry tooling wall, and a long cave. There were recent rockfalls (2022) near the red wall area so care must be taken when climbing.

The dry tooling area is nicely equipped, but it also contains the "entrance" of the cave, with large drops and chasms. Care must be taken when accessing this section.

access issues

Short scrambling across a boulder field is required to access the quarry.

approach

Park your car at the layby. Ember Ln, Bonsall, Matlock DE4 2AF. The quarry can be found by following the footpath across two gates (10 minutes of walk)

ethic

Park sensibly at the layby, do not block access to the farmer's field.

1.1.20. Halldale Quarry 0 routes in Crag

access issues

CLIMBING IS NOT ALLOWED AT HALLDALE QUARRY. See the BMC Regional Access Database:

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/viewcrag.aspx?id=931

1.1.21. Harpur Hill 356 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.231466, -1.907088

summary

Old limestone quarry with lots of sport routes as well as a number of trad routes. For a history of the crag, and updates on routes (bolts, etc.) see http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/Harpur%20Hill.htm

description

One of the largest abandoned quarries in the peak district with two tiers of climbing offering over 300 routes in the low to mid sport climbing grade. Some surviving trad routes are also present if you like doing trad in crumbling quarries. The top level of the quarry requires scrambling and is usually quieter than the bottom tier.

All in all, this is a good place to tick some routes, but the quarry is also popular with the local youth and a dirt bike community, there is a lot of rubbish lying around and the whole place has a post-apocalyptic feeling with the poisoned lake and the rusted away car wrecks in the background.

There have been accidents in the past due to the crumbling nature of the rock. A helmet for both climbers is advised as well as good judgment when accessing routes prior to climbing them.

access issues

Access is sensitive (as the BMC put it). The old quarry is on private property and there is no access agreement. The owner occasionally appears and asks people to leave, please do so promptly and courteously.

For up to date access info, see https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=118

approach

Parking is limited and fines have been issued for people parking inconsiderately. The best car park is at the top of Hill Lane (just before the gates of the industrial estate) where 3-4 cars can be parked considerately without blocking the road. From here follow the marked public bridleway towards the quarry, keep to the right, and hop the low-level fence at a convenient spot.

As usual, consult the BMC Rad site for the latest on parking. https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/rad/view.aspx?id=118

1.1.22. Smalldale 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.290228, -1.856485

1.1.23. Slaley Brook 52 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.111716, -1.591193

1.1.24. Intake Quarry 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.092299, -1.597719

summary

Abandoned quarry with over 150 sport and few trad routes.

description

One of the most impressive abandoned quarries in the peak district, but the quality of the rock is questionable in some places, and hazardous in others. Still, a good selection of routes can be found for those who climb in between 6a - 6c grade. Even when other venues around the peak are full, you will not find many people here, the rock generally dries quickly and it is good to catch the afternoon sun in here.

access issues

Climbing is not allowed due to unstable sections of the wall. This is clearly marked and the whole quarry is fenced off. Recent (2023) efforts have doubled the fence around the quarry to make access more difficult for the general public.

See the BMC Regional Access Database: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/viewcrag.aspx?id=846

approach

Leave your car at the Middleton - top visitor center (Pay and Display) and walk along the high peak trail. The gate for the quarry can be reached on the RHS of the trail after walking for 5 minutes.

1.1.25. Harborough Rocks 65 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.093735, -1.638321

summary

Limestone Outcrop for Trad Climbing and Bouldering.

description

One of the best places to practice trad climbing in the Peak District, with short routes ranging from 6-to 12 meters in height. Lower off's are easy to build on the top of the cliffs, walking off is possible from most top-outs.

Nice spot for a family day-out, but the factory below can be off-putting and during windy days the belayer might want to bring a coat along.

approach

There is a small car park adjacent to the road, 5 minutes away from the crags.

ethic

No bolting, or chipping.

1.1.26. Colehill Quarry 35 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.092155, -1.571188

description

Good quality limestone and well bolted.

access issues

Owned by National Stone Centre.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=905

approach

From the at a mini-roundabout at Wirksworth Industrial Centre (Ravenstor Road ) turn right after the gate. An obvious track leads to the crag.

1.1.27. Deep Rake 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.258545, -1.657691

1.1.28. Blackwell Halt 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.1.29. Cratcliffe Tor 113 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.158316, -1.660395

1.1.30. Robin Hood Stride 64 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.157146, -1.666040

1.1.31. Strawberry Rocks 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.257013, -1.802967

1.1.32. Strawberry Quarry 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.256866, -1.800711

1.1.33. Blackwell Dale 183 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.251725, -1.802742

1.1.34. Priestcliffe Quarry 38 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.254244, -1.789965

1.1.35. Squirrel Buttress 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.256626, -1.783386

1.1.36. Raven's Foot Buttress 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.255891, -1.777801

1.1.37. Tideswell Dale 70 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.257861, -1.769158

1.1.38. Crag X 39 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.250906, -1.742082

1.1.39. Fossil Wall 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.233832, -1.746268

1.1.40. Lees Bottom 40 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.229082, -1.746090

1.1.41. The Wave 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.232093, -1.750616

1.1.42. Taddington 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.233235, -1.751153

1.1.43. High Edge Buxton 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.218979, -1.914651

1.1.44. Grinlow Hill (Solomon's Temple) 164 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.243525, -1.924906

1.1.45. Corbar Cross 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.265780, -1.924470

1.1.46. Cuckoo Tors 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.270156, -1.924657

1.1.47. Buxton Boss 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.278281, -1.940760

1.1.48. Bibbington Quarry 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.288574, -1.885855

1.1.49. Ashwood Dale (Lover's Leap) 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.251299, -1.893790

1.1.50. Beerhouse Buttress 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.249864, -1.880470

1.1.51. Cow Dale (Craig-y-Biceps) 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.245866, -1.874211

1.1.52. Deep Dale 149 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.242443, -1.851233

1.1.53. Boardwalk Cave 25 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.071927, -1.733170

1.2. Western Gritstone 4,489 routes in Region

31 32 23 22 24 28 29 26 30 27 25 21 4 14 5 13 12 11 20 19 10 9 17 15 16 18 7 6 8 40 3 39 38 37 36 35 34 2 33 1

1 Whaley Bridge Area 2 Kinder 3 Bleaklow and Longdendale 4 Chew Valley 5 Laddow 6 Harry's Quarry 7 John Henry Quarry 8 Bottoms Quarry 9 Tintwistle Knarr 10 Millstone Buttress to Highstone Rocks 11 Black Tor 12 Rake's Rocks 13 Bareholme Crag 14 Crowden Castles 15 Shining Clough 16 Deer Knowl 17 Black Cloughs 18 Rollick Stones 19 Brockholes Quarry 20 Crowden Great Quarry 21 Holmfirth Cliff 22 Honley Quarry 23 Netherton Edge 24 Honley Old Wood 25 West Nab 26 Shooter's Nab 27 Worlow Quarry 28 Nab End 29 Piper Stones 30 Standedge Quarry 31 Longwood Tower Quarry 32 Crosland Moor 33 Oldpits Quarry 34 Chatterton Lane Quarry 35 Wormstones 36 Coombes Rocks 37 Lower Shelf Stones 38 Shelf Benches 39 Yellowslacks 40 Torside Clough

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.472191, -1.898135

1.2.1. Whaley Bridge Area 304 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.326377, -1.976123

1.2.2. Kinder 1,125 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.396121, -1.839502

summary

Lovely historical spot

description

Brilliant views and a feeling of real remoteness

access issues

None

approach

Various approaches all long!

where to stay

Hayfield

ethic

No litter or bbqs

history

Famous for the right to roam march

1.2.3. Bleaklow and Longdendale 0 routes in Crag

1.2.4. Chew Valley 1,205 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.533613, -1.965874

summary

A big area to cover,wimberry is a brilliant easily accessible crag with some genuinely stunning routes(try MaDMAn E8).The other crags are good,but not as obvious.Dovestones quarry is huge,but has some shaky rock.A little up the road is Upperwood quarry,obvious on the left

description

Endless possibilities

access issues

None,all on open access land

approach

Dovestones reservoir car park allows access to all

where to stay

Greenfield

ethic

No litter,bbq's or chipping

1.2.5. Laddow 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.508159, -1.915350

1.2.6. Harry's Quarry 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.474431, -1.965678

1.2.7. John Henry Quarry 56 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.474945, -1.961005

1.2.8. Bottoms Quarry 42 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.472579, -1.956727

description

Topo

Beware stinging nettle

1.2.9. Tintwistle Knarr 96 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.488837, -1.935453

1.2.10. Millstone Buttress to Highstone Rocks 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.492730, -1.919383

1.2.11. Black Tor 56 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.496677, -1.904675

1.2.12. Rake's Rocks 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.501795, -1.915352

1.2.13. Bareholme Crag 50 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.507045, -1.905981

1.2.14. Crowden Castles 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.515464, -1.906426

1.2.15. Shining Clough 114 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.484898, -1.853515

1.2.16. Deer Knowl 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.484734, -1.862714

1.2.17. Black Cloughs 35 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.485451, -1.825135

1.2.18. Rollick Stones 56 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.481246, -1.878425

1.2.19. Brockholes Quarry 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.495705, -1.894440

1.2.20. Crowden Great Quarry 107 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.495726, -1.887871

1.2.21. Holmfirth Cliff 123 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.572111, -1.779591

1.2.22. Honley Quarry 59 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.605556, -1.801183

1.2.23. Netherton Edge 41 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.608543, -1.808608

1.2.24. Honley Old Wood 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.603015, -1.818735

1.2.25. West Nab 215 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.579565, -1.889089

1.2.26. Shooter's Nab 108 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.595161, -1.903456

1.2.27. Worlow Quarry 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.589009, -1.945639

1.2.28. Nab End 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.602326, -1.955744

1.2.29. Piper Stones 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.600297, -1.914733

1.2.30. Standedge Quarry 111 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.592790, -1.986775

1.2.31. Longwood Tower Quarry 43 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.646823, -1.830033

1.2.32. Crosland Moor 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.634858, -1.823822

1.2.33. Oldpits Quarry 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.388960, -1.925683

1.2.34. Chatterton Lane Quarry 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.403671, -2.015210

1.2.35. Wormstones 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.419845, -1.937060

1.2.36. Coombes Rocks 53 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.424135, -1.974803

1.2.37. Lower Shelf Stones 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.449538, -1.872221

1.2.38. Shelf Benches 55 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.451099, -1.892316

1.2.39. Yellowslacks 49 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.457882, -1.888665

1.2.40. Torside Clough 65 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.472149, -1.904063

1.2.41. Craig Y Longridge 0 routes in Crag

description

One long, slightly overhanging wall filled with vertical problems and traverses.

approach

Park up on the opposite side of the road, then there is a BMC sign and a gate that leads directly down to the crag.

1.3. Eastern Gritstone 6,070 routes in Region

40 39 1 26 38 27 36 37 35 10 44 28 29 30 19 41 43 31 32 33 34 42 2 21 22 16 6 18 25 17 24 13 9 3 14 4 7 46 45 5 11 20

1 Agden Rocher 2 Bamford Edge 3 Baslow 4 Birchen Edge 5 Black Rocks 6 Burbage Valley 7 Chatsworth Edge 9 Curbar Edge 10 Dovestone Tor 11 Duke's Quarry 13 Froggatt Edge 14 Gardom's Edge 16 Higgar Tor 17 Lawrencefield Quarry 18 Millstone Edge 19 Rivelin Edge 20 Shining Cliff 21 Stanage 22 Carrhead Rocks 24 Yarncliffe 25 Mother Cap & Quarry 26 Howshaw Tor 27 Back Tor 28 White Tor 29 The Wheelstones 30 The Hurkling Stones 31 Crook Hill 32 Ladybower Tor 33 Ladybower Quarry 34 Priddock Wood 35 Iain's Strines Roof 36 Blindside Rocks 37 Gibraltar Rocks 38 Tor Quarry 39 Smallfield 40 Hurkling Stones 41 Rivelin Quarries 42 Wyming Brook 43 Reddicar Clough 44 Stannington Ruffs 45 Stanton in the Woods 46 Stanton Moor

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.255838, -1.616095

1.3.1. Agden Rocher 165 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.437051, -1.606742

1.3.2. Bamford Edge 161 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.359994, -1.687893

1.3.3. Baslow 142 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.263951, -1.610502

1.3.4. Birchen Edge 214 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.252182, -1.583294

summary

Good selection of routes that are lower in the grades.

description

The quick accessibility and easy grades make this a popular venue for groups. However the consequent polish has given many routes tricky starts. Locals report that that footfall has also significantly lowered the ground level at the base, also increasing the difficulty of moving off.

access issues

Open Access land

approach

Use the car park opposite the Robin Hood pub (National Trust - fees apply to non-members) and walk up the road. There is a stile on the left which leads to a track. The crag is less than 15 minutes distant, although the Far Left wall is 5-10 minutes further on.

where to stay

I'm told that there is a basic campsite next to the Robin Hood Pub at £3 a night. And the pub serves a good selection of real ales too.

ethic

Warning: The obelisk is not to be used as a belay or abseil anchor.

history

There is a monument on the cliff celebrating Nelson's 1805 victory at Trafalgar, which is why there are many sea-related names.

1.3.5. Black Rocks 103 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.098484, -1.564694

approach

Follow the 'Black Rocks' tourist sign at the top of Cromford Hill and park in the tourist car park, or the lay-by just outside if available. From there you'll be able to see the crag. Take care walking down the scree slop when you leave!

1.3.6. Burbage Valley 798 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.332849, -1.601950

1.3.7. Chatsworth Edge 52 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.245049, -1.588990

1.3.8. Cocking Tor 0 routes in Crag

1.3.9. Curbar Edge 363 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.274232, -1.617122

summary

Many hard problems to be found including the roadside work hard/play hard

description

Something for everyone

access issues

No access problems

approach

Park on the lane up the hill,boulders are obvious.Can be very busy on nice days or weekends

where to stay

B and Bs

ethic

No chipping

history

Lots,see guidebooks

1.3.10. Dovestone Tor 109 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.405315, -1.705076

1.3.11. Duke's Quarry 0 routes in Crag

1.3.12. Eastwood Rocks 0 routes in Crag

1.3.13. Froggatt Edge 225 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.289871, -1.626258

summary

Good quality grit climbing combined with easy grades and a lot of slab, makes Froggat a popular peak crag.

description

Froggat edge is a long line of broken walls near the town of Froggat in the peak district. Many popular slabs can be found here, but may be serious affairs with a lack of protection. Other classic lines exist on crack and all shapes, well worth a day on grit.

approach

Park either at the top in the large carpark or look for a space in the small parking at the bottom. Avoid parking near the Checkers pub, this is private.

where to stay

Many options exist in the peak.

1.3.14. Gardom's Edge 185 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.256396, -1.593662

approach

5mins from roadside North parking. 15-20 from the Robin Hood Inn and harder to find.

where to stay

Eric Byne campsite: http://www.ukcampsite.co.uk/sites/details.asp?revid=6107

1.3.15. Hall Moor Quarry 0 routes in Crag

1.3.16. Higgar Tor 189 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.333621, -1.617145

1.3.17. Lawrencefield Quarry 58 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.314898, -1.628088

1.3.18. Millstone Edge 201 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.320909, -1.628960

summary

The best of the quarried gritstone, Millstone offers some incredible cracks, and tons of quality in the mid grades

description

Millstone is an old quarry area, with longer lines and more consistent cliffs than most of the peak grit. It offers some fantastic crack climbing, with many pure jam cracks from a moderate grade to the really tough.

approach

Park at Surprise View carpark (paid parking) and follow the foot path at the north-west corner to a weathered mud and stone descent to the crag footpath.

1.3.19. Rivelin Edge 128 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.383242, -1.575411

access issues

The landowner has protested strongly to the BMC about damage to trees and erosion to footpaths around the crag. Avoid the area to the right of Altar Crack. Respect its integrity as a conservation area. Any further damage to trees will result in the loss of all access for climbing.

Seasonal Restrictions: Nesting Birds

1 March to 30 June

Tawny Owls and Kestrels were (May 2021) nesting in Rhododendron Crack / Entrapment (Rivelin Quarries). Please avoid these routes until further notice.

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest. You have been warned!

approach

Park at Rivelin Lower Reservoir parking (gates locked at 18h every day) and walk back to the road, A57. Take footpath opposite and follow it, bearing right through a damp area. Take a left fork which goes up the hill, ignore paths leading right, and you should see the Rivelin Needle after a few hundred metres.

1.3.20. Shining Cliff 0 routes in Crag

1.3.21. Stanage 1,907 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.357137, -1.644805

summary

The most famous of the gritstone edges, Stanage has a reputation and has drawn climbers for generations. With over 2000 routes and a mile long, Stanage will offer something for every trad climber.

description

Stanage is a gritstone edge in the Peak district. As the longest and most varied of the gritstone crags it can draw a crowd. Expect trad routes from 10-20m high, often with complex 3D movements and a wide range of styles

approach

Stanage is close to the town of Hathersage in the Peak District. Busses can get you here from Sheffield, although most will drive. The crag is within a walk from public transport if needed. There are three major parking areas for Stanage (Stanage Popular, Stanage Plantation and Stanage North), check which area you are planning on climbing before parking. On nice weekends parking can be a problem, arrive early if you want a close park.

where to stay

There are many pubs offering rooms and there is a hostel in Hathersage. Paid camping can be found and some mentions of bivying at the crag can be found, though this is prohibited. Plenty of accommodation exists in Sheffield 20 min from the crag.

ethic

Strictly trad ethic here! As the locals say, this is gods own rock.

history

Stanage has been climbed for over a century, with most major development happening after the second world war.

1.3.22. Carrhead Rocks 43 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.341848, -1.639719

1.3.23. Turning Stone Edge 0 routes in Crag

1.3.24. Yarncliffe 27 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.310771, -1.617828

1.3.25. Mother Cap & Quarry 0 routes in Boulder

description

Mother cap is unmissable.Top out needed for the tick.

approach

Walk across the moor to the obvious huge block

1.3.26. Howshaw Tor 44 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.418760, -1.703756

1.3.27. Back Tor 62 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.415224, -1.703233

1.3.28. White Tor 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.395489, -1.703148

1.3.29. The Wheelstones 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.393282, -1.697397

1.3.30. The Hurkling Stones 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.386354, -1.697489

1.3.31. Crook Hill 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.379057, -1.726381

1.3.32. Ladybower Tor 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.378637, -1.693626

1.3.33. Ladybower Quarry 43 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.377993, -1.688504

1.3.34. Priddock Wood 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.375349, -1.689697

1.3.35. Iain's Strines Roof 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.405915, -1.650215

1.3.36. Blindside Rocks 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.414987, -1.635432

1.3.37. Gibraltar Rocks 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.414621, -1.627064

1.3.38. Tor Quarry 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.416918, -1.625889

1.3.39. Smallfield 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.438404, -1.621841

1.3.40. Hurkling Stones 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.448308, -1.640995

1.3.41. Rivelin Quarries 143 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.381152, -1.589180

1.3.42. Wyming Brook 77 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.371651, -1.593266

1.3.43. Reddicar Clough 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.380426, -1.604892

1.3.44. Stannington Ruffs 82 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.399180, -1.542238

1.3.45. Stanton in the Woods 119 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.160582, -1.641368

1.3.46. Stanton Moor 126 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.163130, -1.631495

1.3.47. Matlock Quarries 64 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing