A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
North Lower Merced Canyon
485 in Area
- 1.1. Arch Rock 43 in Area
- 1.2. The Cookie Cliff 56 in Area
- 1.3. Pat and Jack Pinnacle Area 47 in Area
- 1.4. Knob Hill 10 in Area
- 1.5. Reed's Pinnacle Area 52 in Cliff
- 1.6. Five and Dime Cliff 17 in Area
- 1.7. Highway Star Bluff 2 in Area
-
1.8.
Parkline Area 25 in Area
-
1.8.1.
Parkline Slab 22 in Area
- 1.8.1.1. Hayley Anna Area 2 in Area
- 1.8.1.2. The Cockshead 11 in Area
- 1.8.1.3. Parkline Pinnacle 9 in Area
- 1.8.2. Narrow Escape Cliff 3 in Area
-
1.8.1.
Parkline Slab 22 in Area
- 1.9. Short Circuit Boulder 2 in Area
- 1.10. Dog Dik Cliff 5 in Area
- 1.11. Finger Lickin' Cliff 11 in Area
- 1.12. Roadside Attraction Area 7 in Area
- 1.13. Kat Pinnacle 5 in Area
- 1.14. Bobcat Buttress 6 in Area
- 1.15. Boulder Cracks 2 in Area
- 1.16. Oreo Cliff 7 in Area
- 1.17. Above The Cookie 12 in Area
-
1.18.
Wildcat Falls Area 12 in Area
- 1.18.1. Through Bein' Cool 3 in Area
- 1.18.2. Knobby Wall 9 in Area
-
1.19.
Cascade Falls 28 in Area
- 1.19.1. Left Side 19 in Area
- 1.19.2. Upper 4 in Area
- 1.19.3. Right Side 5 in Area
- 1.20. This and That Cliff 29 in Area
- 1.21. Generator Station 4 in Area
- 1.22. New Diversions Cliff 19 in Area
- 1.23. Trix Area 4 in Area
- 1.24. Owl Roof Area 18 in Area
- 1.25. Goldrush Area 11 in Area
- 1.26. Fantasy Island 4 in Area
- 1.27. The Mojo Tooth 25 in Area
- 1.28. Last Resort Cliff 17 in Area
- 1.29. Audubon Buttress 5 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. North Lower Merced Canyon 485 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.707661, -119.714681
access issues
As of 27/06/22:
-"A reservation will be required to drive into or through Yosemite National Park from May 20 through September 30, 2022, for those driving into the park between 6 am and 4 pm." (note this may occur through a in-park camping or accomodation permit or wilderness/bigwall permit), a permit is NOT required if entering the park outside of these hours. (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/reservations.htm )
-"As of May 2021, a wilderness permit is required for all overnight big wall climbs. During this pilot, wilderness permits for climbers are free and there are no quotas or limits on the number of permits available." (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingpermits.htm ). See previous link for details on picking up this permit.
 |
1.1. Arch Rock 43 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 37.689647, -119.732491
1.2. The Cookie Cliff 56 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.718208, -119.718783
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Mystic Mint | 5.11b | ||||
| 2 | Twinkle | 5.10c | ||||
| 3 | ★ Nutter Butter | 5.12b | ||||
| 4 | ★ Tennessee Strings | 5.12a | ||||
| 5 | ★ Coffin Nail | A3+ | ||||
| 6 | Banana Dreams | 5.10a | ||||
| 7 |
★★★ Hardd
FFA: Henry Barber, Ron Kauk & Steve Wunsch, 1975 | 5.11b | 240ft, 2 | |||
| 8 |
★★★ Crack-a-Go-Go
FA: Harvey Carter & Pete Pederson, 1967 FFA: Pete Livesy & Ron Fawcett, 1974 | 5.11c | 130ft | |||
| 9 |
★★★ Outer Limits
FFA: Jim Bridwell & Jim Orey, 1971 | 5.11a | 150ft, 2 | |||
| 10 |
Satanic Mechanic
FA: Dimitri Barton | 5.12c | ||||
| 11 | ★ Orangutan Arch | 5.11b | ||||
| 12 |
★★ Elevator Shaft
FFA: Jim Bridwell & Phil Bircheff, 1965 | 5.8 | 230ft, 2 | |||
| 13 | ★★★ Cookie Monster | 5.12a | 82ft, 7 | |||
| 14 | ★★★ Cookie Cutter | 5.13b | ||||
| 15 |
★★ Twilight Zone
FFA: Chuck Pratt & Chris Fredericks, 1965 | 5.10d | 100ft | |||
| 16 | ★★ Chips Ahoy | 5.12c | ||||
| 17 | ★ Ginger Snap | 5.12b | ||||
| 18 |
★★ America's Cup
FA: Kim Carrigan & Geoff Wiegand, 1985 | 5.12b R | ||||
| 19 | ★★★ Red Zinger | 5.11d | 82ft | |||
| 20 | ★★ Meat Grinder p1 | 5.9 | 66ft | |||
| 21 |
★★ Meat Grinder
FA: Royal Robbins & TM Herbert, 1968 | 5.10c | 250ft, 2 | |||
| 22 | ★★★ Meat Grinder Arete | 5.13b | ||||
| 23 | ★★ Beverly's Tower | 5.10a | 98ft | |||
| 24 | ★★ Afershock | 5.11b | ||||
| 25 | ★★★ Waverly Wafer | 5.11a | 98ft | |||
| 26 | ★★★ Butterballs | 5.11c | 82ft | |||
| 27 | ★★★ Wheat Thin | 5.10c | 66ft | |||
| 28 | ★★ Butterfingers | 5.11a | ||||
| 29 | ★★ Ladyfingers | 5.11a | ||||
| 30 | ★ The Cookie - Left Side | 5.10a | ||||
| 31 | ★ The Cookie - Center Route | 5.9 | ||||
| 32 |
★★ The Cookie - Right Side
FFA: Royal Robbins & Lloyd Price, 1968 | 5.9 | 240ft, 2 | |||
| 33 | ★ Vendetta | 5.10b | ||||
| 34 | Infraction | 5.9 | ||||
| 35 | ★★ Anathema | 5.10a | ||||
| 36 | Last in Line | 5.11b | ||||
| 37 | ★ Jardin's Hand | 5.11a | ||||
| 38 | ★ The Cleft | 5.9 | ||||
| 39 | ★★★ Catchy | 5.10d | 98ft | |||
| 40 | ★★★ Catchy Corner | 5.11a | 150ft | |||
| 41 | ★★ Pringles | 5.11b | 98ft | |||
| 42 | Zipperhead | 5.12c | ||||
| 43 | ★ The Void | 5.11b | ||||
| 44 | ★ Void Continuation | 5.10d | ||||
| 45 | ★★ The Stigma (aka Renegade) | 5.13d | 82ft | |||
| 46 | ★★ The Enigma | 5.10a | ||||
| 47 | ★★ Ramp of Destruction | 5.10a | ||||
| 48 | ★★ Abstract Corner | 5.11a | ||||
| 49 | Escape | 5.8 | ||||
| 50 | ★★★ Shortcake | 5.11b | ||||
| 51 | ★★★ The Enema | 5.11b | ||||
| 52 | ★ Ray's Pin Job | 5.12b | ||||
| 53 | ★ Something for Nothing | 5.11d | ||||
| 54 | ★ Gunning for Buddha | 5.11a | ||||
| 55 | ★ Terminator Left Side | 5.11b | ||||
| 56 | ★★ Terminator Right Side | 5.10b | ||||
1.3. Pat and Jack Pinnacle Area 47 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.725038, -119.713425
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Pat Pinnacle | 5.7 | ||||
| 2 | Jack Pinnacle Right Side | 5.9 | ||||
| 3 | Jack Pinnacle Left Side | 5.7 | ||||
| 4 | Domehead | 5.10b | ||||
| 5 | Scorpion Man | 5.10d | ||||
| 6 | ★ Stinger | 5.11a | ||||
| 7 | ★ Stand and Quiver | 5.11a | ||||
| 8 | ★ Hat Pin | 5.11a | ||||
| 9 | The Knife | 5.11b | ||||
| 10 | ★ Flailing Dog | 5.11a | ||||
| 11 | Gilligan's Chicken | 5.7 | ||||
| 12 | ★ Chicken Fever | 5.10b | ||||
| 13 | ★★ Sherrie's Crack | 5.10c | 80ft | |||
| 14 | ★ Nurdle | 5.8 | 180ft | |||
| 15 | ★★ The Super Slacker Highway | 5.10b | 600ft, 8, 16 | |||
| 16 |
★★ Knob Job
FA: Kevin Worrall & George Meyers, 1976 | 5.10b | 200ft, 2 | |||
| 17 | ★ G-Man | 5.11b | ||||
| 18 |
★★ Book 'em, Dano
This is not Book'em Dano this is a continuation of G-man and was done in one pitch by Dimitri in 1988 Book'em Dano was also done by Dimitri but goes out to the right across big knobs FA: Dimitri Barton | 5.10d | ||||
| 19 | ★ Trough of Justice | 5.10b | 110ft | |||
| 20 |
★★ Knuckleheads
FA: Dan & Sue McDevitt, 1991 | 5.10b | 90ft | |||
| 21 | People's Court | 5.10d | ||||
| 22 | ★★ Desperado | 5.11d | ||||
| 23 | ★★ Desperate Straights | 5.10a | 90ft | |||
| 24 | ★ Cat's Squirrel | 5.12a | ||||
| 25 | ★ Cat's Squirrel Continuation | 5.12b | ||||
| 26 | Nine Lives | 5.11b | ||||
| 27 | Black Heads | 5.11b | ||||
| 28 |
★★★ Skinheads
Climb the arete with nicely spaced bolts. Pause to marvel at the shape of the hanger on the third bolt, just below the crux moves. | 5.10d | 110ft | |||
| 29 | ★★ Underclingon | 5.12a | ||||
| 30 | ★★ The Tube | 5.11a | 82ft | |||
| 31 | Guardian Angel | 5.11b | ||||
| 32 | Gay Bob's | 5.10b | ||||
| 33 | Tricky Fingers | 5.10c | ||||
| 34 | Brainbucket | 5.10d | ||||
| 35 | Babble On | 5.10a | 80ft, 1 | |||
| 36 | ★ Showtime | 5.11c | ||||
| 37 | ★★ Rocky Horror Show | 5.12a | ||||
| 38 | Wart Hog | 5.8 | ||||
| 39 | ★ My-Toe-Sis | 5.11b | ||||
| 40 | Eraser Flake | 5.11a | ||||
| 41 | Sunblast | 5.13a A2+ | ||||
| 42 | The Wedge | 5.11b | ||||
| 43 | ★★ Polymastia | 5.10d | ||||
| 44 | ★ Suds | 5.9 | 120ft | |||
| 45 |
★★ Kiddie Corner
Not a kiddie climb at all so why this name? Bolted line, slabby down low with a nice finger crack and definite crux at the corner up high. | 5.10a | 110ft, 7 | |||
| 46 |
★★ Boneheads
FA: Andersons & Sue McDevitt | 5.10b | 80ft | |||
| 47 | ★ Makayla's Climb | 5.9 | 160ft | |||
1.4. Knob Hill 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 37.728475, -119.710544
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Pot Belly LHV
FA: Kevin Worrall & George Meyers, 1976 | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
| 2 |
★ Pot Belly
FA: Bill Griffin & Bruce Price, 1973 | 5.7 | 60ft | |||
| 3 | ★ Movin' to Montana | 5.8 | ||||
| 4 |
★★ Just For Starters
FA: Anderson Family | 5.10a | 180ft, 7 | |||
| 5 | ★★ Sloth Wall | 5.7 | 180ft | |||
| 6 | ★★ Anti-Ego Crack | 5.7 | ||||
| 7 | Sloppy Seconds | 5.5 | ||||
| 8 |
★ Turkey Pie (aka Chicken Pie)
FA: Jerry Anderson, 1973 | 5.7 | 100ft | |||
| 9 | Knob Hill Rapist | 5.8 | ||||
| 10 | Deception Gully | 5.9 | ||||
1.5. Reed's Pinnacle Area 52 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.724948, -119.699266
description
A short cliff right beside the road with some excellent crack climbing.
approach
Jump on 120 heading out of Yosemite Village. Park in the turnoff just past the very first tunnel, you may have to go down the road a bit to turn around. Look for the post with a picture of a carabena on it and make the arduous 3 minute approach. The most prominent climb on the wall that you can't miss is 'Lunatic Fringe'.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Danger Will Robinson | 5.10d | ||||||
| 2 | Anal Tongue Darts | 5.10c | ||||||
| 3 | ★ Olga's Trick | 5.10d | ||||||
| 4 | Crazy Train | 5.10c | ||||||
| 5 | Isotope | 5.11d | ||||||
| 6 | ★ Chingando | 5.10a | ||||||
| 7 | ★ The Iota | 5.5 | ||||||
| 8 | ★ The Tooth | 5.10a | ||||||
| 9 | ★ Crossroads | 5.13a | ||||||
| 10 | ★ Phantom | 5.13a | ||||||
| 11 | Micron | 5.11b | ||||||
| 12 | The Remnant Left Side | 5.10b | ||||||
| 13 | The Remnant Center Route | 5.12a | ||||||
| 14 | The Remnant Right Side | 5.7 | ||||||
| 15 | Reed's Pinnacle Left Side | 5.10a | ||||||
| 16 | Goosebumps | 5.10c | ||||||
| 17 |
★★★ Reed's Direct
FA: Wally Reed, Frank Sacerer, Mark Powell, Gary Colliver & Andy Lichman, 1964 | 5.9 | 240ft, 3 | |||||
| 18 |
★★ Reed's Regular Route
FA: Herb Swedlund & Wally Reed, 1957 | 5.9 | 300ft, 4 | |||||
| 19 | Blaxing Buckets | 5.9 | ||||||
| 20 | ★★ Bong's Away Left | 5.8 | ||||||
| 21 | Bong's Away Center | 5.10a | ||||||
| 22 | Bong's Away Right | 5.9 | ||||||
| 23 | ★ Magical Mystery Tour | 5.10a | ||||||
| 24 | Duck and Cover | 5.11 | ||||||
| 25 | ★ Old Five Ten | 5.10d | ||||||
| 26 | Midnight Rampest | 5.10a | ||||||
| 27 |
★★★ Lunatic Fringe
Yosemite's best 5.10 crack apparently!!! It is outstanding, but very challenging, it will test all of your crack climbing skills and is a very difficult onsight. There is finger locks, ring locks, double finger locks, hands, fists, o/w, laybacks. An awesome climb. | 5.10c | 140ft | |||||
| 28 | Beyond the Fringe | 5.10c | ||||||
| 29 | ★ Flatus | 5.9 | ||||||
| 30 | ★ The Rorp | 5.7 | ||||||
| 31 | ★ Tooth or Consequence | 5.11b | ||||||
| 32 | ★★★ Stone Groove | 5.10b | 59ft | |||||
| 33 |
★★ Stone Fist
The off-width and hand crack just to the right of Stone Groove. DBB on top. | 5.9 | 66ft | |||||
| 34 | ★ Independent Route | 5.10b | ||||||
| 35 | The Gray Bullet | 5.8 | ||||||
| 36 | ★★ Rocket in my Pocket | 5.11c | ||||||
| 37 | ★ Center Route | 5.10d | ||||||
| 38 | ★ Center Route (pitch 1) | 5.7 | ||||||
| 39 | ★★★ Reed's Pinnacle Direct | 5.10a | 310ft, 4 | |||||
| 40 | ★★ Steppin' Out | 5.10d | ||||||
| 41 | Cosmic Ray | 5.11a | ||||||
| 42 |
★★ Ejesta
The first pitch is ok with some finger cracks. The top pitches is the money with an amazing hand crack in a dihedral leading up to an easy o/w section - bring a C4 #4 to lower the spice, but you can do without. An easy albeit airy traverse is your finish. | 5.8 | 60ft | |||||
| 43 | Porter's Pout | 5.10a | ||||||
| 44 | Sylvester's Meao | 5.11a | ||||||
| 45 | ★★ Regular Route | 5.9 | 490ft | |||||
| 46 | ★ Fasten your Seat Belte | 5.10b | ||||||
| 47 | ★ Free Ride | 5.10a | ||||||
| 48 | ★ Magic Carpet | 5.11d | ||||||
| 49 | ★ Cro-Magnon Capers | 5.11b | ||||||
| 50 | Nothing Good Ever Lasts | 5.10d | ||||||
| 51 | ★ Spring Fever | 5.11b | ||||||
| 52 | ★★★ Reeds Regular Route (p1+p2) | 5.9 | 190ft | |||||
 |
||||||||
1.6. Five and Dime Cliff 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.722884, -119.701210
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Nickel Bag | 5.11d | ||||
| 2 |
★ Bijou
Warning Fixed Gear: Loose bolt hangers FA: Heather Baer & Jeff Schoen, 1992 | 5.10c | 60ft, 6 | |||
| 3 | ★★ Mockery | 5.8 | 9 | |||
| 4 | ★★ Chump Change | 5.12a | ||||
| 5 |
★★ Keystone Corner
FA: Don Reid & Jay Fiske, 1975 | 5.8 | 80ft | |||
| 6 |
★ Copper Penny
FA: Charlie Porter et al, 1971 | 5.10a X | 90ft | |||
| 7 |
★★ Five and Dime
FA: Barry Bates et al, 1971 | 5.10d | 90ft | |||
| 8 | Whack and Dangle | 5.11a | ||||
| 9 | Penny Ante | 5.11 | ||||
| 10 | ★★ Ride the Lightning | 5.12a | ||||
| 11 | ★★ The Anti-Christ | 5.11d | ||||
| 12 | The Reception | 5.10a | ||||
| 13 | ★★ Holey Gully | 5.8 | 70ft | |||
| 14 | ★★ Markery | 5.10b | 75ft, 9 | |||
| 15 | Inner Reaches | 5.7 | ||||
| 16 | Hawleywood | 5.9 | 79ft, 8 | |||
| 17 | Crack 'n Face | 5.10b | ||||
1.7. Highway Star Bluff 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.721333, -119.675436
/61/8e/618e5b1d14ab39976ad8825975ca89b4a2438867) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Highway Star (10b variation start) | 5.10b | 59ft | |||||
| 2 | ★★ Highway Star | 5.10a | 59ft | |||||
1.8. Parkline Area 25 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.680637, -119.748535
1.8.1. Parkline Slab 22 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
1.8.1.1. Hayley Anna Area 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Hayley Anna | 5.8 | ||||
| 2 | Dressed to Kill | 5.10b | ||||
1.8.1.2. The Cockshead 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Woody Woodpecker | {UK} YDS:5.9 | ||||
| 2 | Sawyer Crack | 5.9 | ||||
| 3 | Eagle's Eyrie | 5.9 | ||||
| 4 |
★★★ Bring in the Fembots
FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Monica Buhler & Dave Horn | 5.8 | 150ft, 3 | |||
| 5 |
★★ Machine Gun Jubblies
FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Monica Buhler & Dave Horn | 5.8 | 150ft, 15 | |||
| 6 | ★ Crossover | 5.9 | ||||
| 7 | ★ Color Me Gone | 5.9 | ||||
| 8 | ★ The Hawaiian | 5.10a | ||||
| 9 | Fly By | 5.11a | ||||
| 10 | Too High | 5.6 | ||||
| 11 | Farm Alarm | 5.7 | ||||
1.8.1.3. Parkline Pinnacle 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Cool Cliff 170 | 5.8 | ||||
| 2 | ★★★ Stonequest | 5.8 | ||||
| 3 | Center Route | 5.9 A2 | ||||
| 4 | Aids Curve | 5.10 | ||||
| 5 | ★★ The Chase | 5.9 | ||||
| 6 | ★★ Right Side | 5.7 | ||||
| 7 | ★ The Soloist | 5.10 | ||||
| 8 | The Perpetrator | 5.10+ | ||||
| 9 | ★ Costa Rica | 5.9 | ||||
1.8.2. Narrow Escape Cliff 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ A Desperate Kneed | 5.11a | ||||
| 2 | Narrow Escape | 5.10c | ||||
| 3 | Remember Ribbon Falls | 5.12 | ||||
1.9. Short Circuit Boulder 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ 666 | 5.12b | ||||
| 2 | ★★★ Short Circuit | 5.11d | ||||
1.10. Dog Dik Cliff 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Aid climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Short but Thick | 5.11a | ||||
| 2 | ★ Opposition | 5.11a | ||||
| 3 | ★★ Happy Days | 5.11d | ||||
| 4 | ★ Pink Pussycat | A1 | ||||
| 5 | Fist Puppet | 5.11a | ||||
1.11. Finger Lickin' Cliff 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Finger Lickin' | 5.10d | ||||
| 2 | Fun Flake | 5.9 | ||||
| 3 | Pandora's Box | 5.10a | ||||
| 4 | ★ Petty Larceny | 5.11b | ||||
| 5 | ★ Snatch Power | 5.10c | ||||
| 6 | ★ Jaw Bone | 5.10a | ||||
| 7 | ★★★ Pinky Paralysis | 5.11c | ||||
| 8 | Health Insurance | 5.10a | ||||
| 9 | ★ High Profile | 5.11a | ||||
| 10 | R and R | 5.10a | ||||
| 11 | No Exit | 5.10d | ||||
1.12. Roadside Attraction Area 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ River Boulder | 5.11a | ||||
| 2 | ★★ Roadside Attraction | 5.12a | ||||
| 3 | Roadside Infraction | 5.12b | ||||
| 4 | Dale's Pin Jon | 5.13 | ||||
| 5 | ★ Van Belle O Drome | 5.13c | ||||
| 6 | ★ Van Belle Syndrome | 5.13 | ||||
| 7 | Back to the Future | 5.12b | ||||
1.13. Kat Pinnacle 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Aid climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Northwest Corner | 5.7 A2 | ||||
| 2 | Katchup | 5.10a | ||||
| 3 | ★ Southwest Corner | 5.7 A3+ | ||||
| 4 | Compass | 5.10c | ||||
| 5 | A la Moana | 5.11a | ||||
1.14. Bobcat Buttress 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Cat Flight | 5.10b | ||||
| 2 | ★ Tiger by the Tail | 5.12b | ||||
| 3 | ★ Don't Give Up the Ship | 5.12a | ||||
| 4 | Scratching Post | 5.10b | ||||
| 5 | Pussy Licked | 5.11a | ||||
| 6 | ★ Pussy Whipped | 5.11c | ||||
1.15. Boulder Cracks 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Index Eliminator | 5.12a | ||||
| 2 | Dynamite Crack | 5.10 | ||||
1.16. Oreo Cliff 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Animal Crackers | 5.11c | ||||
| 2 | Original Chips Ahoy | 5.10c | ||||
| 3 | Ninja Flake | 5.11 | ||||
| 4 | Fig Neutron | 5.11b | ||||
| 5 | Spuds McKenzie | 5.10d | ||||
| 6 | What's your Fantasy | 5.11b | ||||
| 7 | Snap, Crackle, and Pop | 5.10c | ||||
1.17. Above The Cookie 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Joe's Garage | 5.11c | ||||
| 2 | ★★ Gait of Power | 5.11d | ||||
| 3 | ★ Tunnel Vision | 5.12d | ||||
| 4 |
★ Romantic Tension
FA: Dimitri Barton-Jonny Woodward | 5.12d | ||||
| 5 |
★ Klingon
FA: Dimitri Barton-Jonny Woodward | 5.11c | ||||
| 6 | Miramonte | 5.10c | ||||
| 7 | ★ Uncertain Ending | 5.10b | ||||
| 8 | ★ Obscure Destiny | 5.11a | ||||
| 9 | ★ Skunk Crack | 5.11b A1 | ||||
| 10 |
★★★ Tales of Power
Sent by Louise Shepherd in 1981 or 1983, one of the first Aussie female ascents at this grade. FA: Ron Kauk, 1978 | 5.12b | ||||
| 11 |
★★★ Separate Reality
An epic roof climb that has been soloed by many pros. FA: Ron Kauk, 1978 | 5.12a | 49ft | |||
| 12 | Guilotine | 5.11d | ||||
1.18. Wildcat Falls Area 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing
1.18.1. Through Bein' Cool 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Through Bein' Cool | 5.10c | ||||
| 2 | Meatheads | 5.10a | ||||
| 3 | Prime Time | 5.9 | ||||
1.18.2. Knobby Wall 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Portside (aka Roland's Hole Route)
This climb is not named Rolands Hole Fuck off Don Ried for calling it that! FA: Dimitri Barton | 5.12b | ||||
| 2 |
★★ Keep the Muscle, Lose the Fat
FA: Jordy "Pelon" Salas | 5.13b | ||||
| 3 | ★★ The Flake | 5.10b | ||||
| 4 |
★★ Meltdown
Dimitri did the first solo of this climb in 1985 FA: Dimitri Barton | 5.12c PG13 | ||||
| 5 |
★★ Changos Cabrones
Dimitri did the first solo of this climb in 1987 FA: Dimitri Barton | 5.12b | ||||
| 6 |
★★ Right Flake
The right hand, right leading flake. guidebook says trad with some bolts, can be climbed easily on bolts only. | 5.11b | 33ft, 4 | |||
| 7 |
★★ Shaft of the Penetrator
Dimitri did the first solo of this climb. Right most route on the main wall. FA: Dimitri Barton | 5.12a | 33ft, 3 | |||
| 8 | ★★ Unnamed 2 | 5.12a | ||||
| 9 | ★★ Pumping Hate | 5.12a | ||||
1.19. Cascade Falls 28 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.722373, -119.713007
1.19.1. Left Side 19 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Law of Tools | 5.11a | ||||
| 2 | ★ Bolt Adventures | 5.11a | ||||
| 3 | ★★ Psychological Warfare | 5.12c | ||||
| 4 | Flary Tales | 5.10a | ||||
| 5 | Toxic Avenger | 5.11c | ||||
| 6 | ★ Maltese Falcon | 5.11a | ||||
| 7 | Eraser Head | 5.10d | ||||
| 8 | White Cloud | 5.10d | ||||
| 9 | A Boy and his Knob | 5.11c | ||||
| 10 | Filthy Rich | 5.9 | ||||
| 11 | Wicked Aretation | 5.10d | ||||
| 12 | ★★ Goldern Needles | 5.8 | ||||
| 13 | Scurv | 5.9 | ||||
| 14 | Opposite World | 5.10 | ||||
| 15 | ★ Jug Monkey | 5.9 | ||||
| 16 | ★ Mud Shark | 5.8 | ||||
| 17 |
★★★ Fish Crack
Solo up knobs and move right up an awkward OW corner. #3 or 4 Camelot useful. Step left to gain comfortable stance before blasting up perfect splitter fingers getting progressively more difficult until you pounce for the victory jug | 5.12b | 98ft | |||
| 18 | ★★ Free Press | 5.10a | ||||
| 19 |
★★★ Crimson Cringe
Louise Shepherd's impressive 1981 onsight was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade. | 5.12b | 160ft, 1 | |||
1.19.2. Upper 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ The Phoenix
FFA: Ray Jardine, 1977 | 5.13a | 160ft | |||
| 2 | On the Spot | 5.11b | ||||
| 3 | Cascade Crack | 5.10b | ||||
| 4 |
Meltdown
A fingertips crack. Small bumps for feet, ultra-technical movement and finicky gear (the largest piece is a ¾” TCU). FA: Beth Rodden, 2008 | 5.14c | 70ft | |||
1.19.3. Right Side 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | False Verde | 5.9 | ||||
| 2 | The Gerbil Launcher | 5.10d | ||||
| 3 | Notably Knobular | 5.8 | ||||
| 4 | Just Scraping By | 5.8 | ||||
| 5 | Solo Crack | 5.9 | ||||
1.20. This and That Cliff 29 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Meat Puppet | 5.10 | ||||
| 2 | Weird Scenes in the Gold Mine | 5.10a | ||||
| 3 | King Cobra | 5.10a | ||||
| 4 | Psuedo Desperation | 5.7 | ||||
| 5 | ★ Agent Orange | 5.10d | ||||
| 6 | Blame it on 800 | |||||
| 7 | ★ Gotham City | 5.11d | ||||
| 8 | ★★ Robin | 5.12c | ||||
| 9 | Stubs | 5.12c | ||||
| 10 | Title Fight | 5.13 | ||||
| 11 | Master Lock | 5.12 | ||||
| 12 | ★★ Tips | 5.12c | ||||
| 13 | Back in the Saddle | 5.11a | ||||
| 14 | Whim | 5.9 | ||||
| 15 | Said and Done | 5.9 | ||||
| 16 | ★ Grateful Pinheads | 5.11a | ||||
| 17 | ★ Slamming Left | 5.11b | ||||
| 18 | Slamming Right | 5.10d | ||||
| 19 | Stumped Ray | 5.11 | ||||
| 20 | ★ This and That | 5.10a | ||||
| 21 | Slap that Bitch | 5.10d | ||||
| 22 | Summary Judgment | 5.11a | ||||
| 23 | ★ Humdinger | 5.10d | ||||
| 24 | Humdinger Continuation | 5.11b | ||||
| 25 | Pink Banana | 5.10d A1 | ||||
| 26 | ★★★ Cramming | 5.10d | 82ft | |||
| 27 | ★★★ Scram | 5.12b | ||||
| 28 | Secret Agent | 5.10c | ||||
| 29 | Cleaver | 5.11d | ||||
1.21. Generator Station 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.722044, -119.703568
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Conductor Crack | 5.10d | 49ft | |||||
/16/e3/16e3cb7732d1283ca0b1cac943d2737f19918398) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 2 |
★★★ Generator Crack
A classic Yosemite wide crack climb. A slightly overhung crack starts with stacks and finishes with an exciting squeeze chimney. A three bolt anchor is accessible by walking around the back side of the Generator Crack boulder. | 5.10c | 60ft | |||||
| 3 | The Blade | 5.12 | ||||||
| 4 | The Gauntlet | 5.11c | ||||||
1.22. New Diversions Cliff 19 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Falcon | 5.10b | ||||
| 2 | ★ Rock Man | 5.11d | ||||
| 3 | Highlander | 5.12c | ||||
| 4 | Chicken Pox | 5.8 | ||||
| 5 | ★★ New Deviations | 5.9 | 120ft | |||
| 6 | ★★★ New Diversions | {AU} YDS:5.10a | 110ft | |||
| 7 | ★★ Burst of Brilliance | 5.11b | ||||
| 8 | Wasp | 5.9 | ||||
| 9 | Strangers in the Night | 5.10b | ||||
| 10 | Electric Gully | 5.7 | ||||
| 11 | ★ Radical Chic | 5.9 | ||||
| 12 | ★★★ Chicken Pie | 5.9 | 150ft | |||
| 13 | Catch a Wave | 5.11d | ||||
| 14 | Jugs | 5.8 | ||||
| 15 | Spring Chicken | 5.11a | ||||
| 16 | ★ Shake, Rattle, and Drop | 5.10b | ||||
| 17 | Chimney for Two | 5.6 | ||||
| 18 | Holidays | 5.8 | ||||
| 19 | Tail End | 5.6 | ||||
1.23. Trix Area 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Wrong Address | 5.9 | ||||
| 2 | ★ Arlington Heights | 5.9 | ||||
| 3 | Hampton Estates | 5.9 | ||||
| 4 | Trix | 5.11a | ||||
1.24. Owl Roof Area 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Pimper's Paradise | 5.11d | ||||
| 2 |
White Owl
FA: Dimitri Barton | 5.11d | ||||
| 3 | Loose Tooth City | 5.10a | ||||
| 4 | Block Horror Picture Show | 5.9 | ||||
| 5 | Teenage Warning | 5.10d | ||||
| 6 | Dromedary Direct | 5.10c | ||||
| 7 | Dromedary | 5.8 | ||||
| 8 | The Shaft | 5.10d | ||||
| 9 | ★ The Owl Bypass | 5.9 | ||||
| 10 | Stroke (My Erect Ear Tufts) | 5.10c | ||||
| 11 | Owl Roof | 5.12c | ||||
| 12 | ★ Floating Lama | 5.11c A1 | ||||
| 13 | ★ Mirage | 5.12c | ||||
| 14 | Color Purple | 5.11b | ||||
| 15 | Pygmy Sex Circus | 5.10b | ||||
| 16 |
Wicked Jones Crusher
FA: Dimitri Barton-Roy McClenahan | 5.10b | ||||
| 17 | Walrus | 5.9 | ||||
| 18 | Traffic Jam | 5.9 | ||||
1.25. Goldrush Area 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | William's Climb | 5.10c | ||||
| 2 | Mongolian Clusterfuck | 5.10a | ||||
| 3 | ★ Siberian Swarm Screw | 5.10a | ||||
| 4 | Gang Bang | 5.10a | ||||
| 5 | Hand Job | 5.10a | ||||
| 6 | Fun | 5.9 | ||||
| 7 | Polymorphous Perverse | 5.10c | ||||
| 8 | Shit on a Shingle | 5.9 | ||||
| 9 | Mainliner | 5.10c | ||||
| 10 | Rest for the Wicked | 5.11c | ||||
| 11 | ★ Goldrush | 5.11b | ||||
1.26. Fantasy Island 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Jupiter | 5.12d | ||||
| 2 | ★★ Fantasy Island | 5.13b | ||||
| 3 | Project 1 | |||||
| 4 | Project 2 | |||||
1.27. The Mojo Tooth 25 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.27.1. Left 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Subatomic | 5.11d | ||||
| 2 | Fluke | 5.9 | ||||
| 3 | Tongue and Grove | 5.12a | ||||
| 4 | ★ Scratch and Sniff | 5.12a | ||||
| 5 | Mojo Tooth | 5.8 | ||||
| 6 | ★ New Traditionalists | 5.10b | ||||
| 7 | ★ Yankee Clipper | 5.11b | ||||
| 8 | Cereal Killer | 5.10a | ||||
| 9 | Figment | 5.8 | ||||
| 10 | ★ Grape Nuts | 5.9 | ||||
| 11 | ★ Euellogy | 5.10a | ||||
| 12 | Bad News Bombers | 5.10a | ||||
| 13 | Deception | 5.11 | ||||
| 14 | ★ Jomo | 5.11d | ||||
| 15 | Natural End | 5.9 | ||||
| 16 | ★ Golden Shower | 5.12a | ||||
| 17 | ★ Yellow Peril | 5.11b | ||||
1.27.2. Right 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Mighty Crunchy | 5.10d | ||||
| 2 | Motor Drive | 5.11a | ||||
| 3 | Vibrator | 5.11d | ||||
| 4 | Yuk | 5.7 | ||||
| 5 | Rehab Doll | 5.10a | ||||
| 6 | Skid Roper | 5.10b | ||||
| 7 | Tooth Fairy | 5.10b | ||||
| 8 | ★ Old 5.11 | 5.12a | ||||
1.28. Last Resort Cliff 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Turning Point | 5.10c | ||||
| 2 | Side Kick | 5.9 | ||||
| 3 | Tiger's Paw | 5.10a A1 | ||||
| 4 | Plumkin | 5.10a | ||||
| 5 | ★ Moon Age Daydream | 5.11a | ||||
| 6 | The Steal | 5.10a | ||||
| 7 | Sex, Drugs and Violence | 5.10a | ||||
| 8 | PMS | 5.11a | ||||
| 9 | ★ B & B | 5.10a | ||||
| 10 | No Falls Wall | 5.10b | ||||
| 11 | Black Sunday | 5.10a | ||||
| 12 | Shattered | 5.10d | ||||
| 13 | ★ Ready or Not | 5.11a | ||||
| 14 | Slumgullion | 5.10 | ||||
| 15 | Neutron Escape | 5.10a | ||||
| 16 | Radioactive | 5.11a | ||||
| 17 | ★ Atomic Finger Crack | 5.12b | ||||
1.29. Audubon Buttress 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Wild Turkey | 5.10c | ||||
| 2 | The Dove | 5.8 | ||||
| 3 | Birds of a Feather | 5.7 | ||||
| 4 | ★ Eagle Feather | 5.10c | ||||
| 5 | Duncan Imperial | 5.11a | ||||
