Ascents in World by Jacques Beaudoin having trad-cpr or ascent-date

Really sustained and hard for the grade.

Repeat, really really good climbing

Really struggled in the chimney

Was pretty spicy with only one #4

Alzheimer onsight, super cool climbing

Very neat indeed

Mostly onsight

Climbed with hands and feet exclusively in the crack this time, a bit of a contrived challenge to up my game in preparation for the Creek. Felt really hard.

It was all too much, too hard, too chossy, too complex, too concerning for my belayer below. At some stage the rock is too bad to even aid. Didn't make it to the crux and stopped when I asked myself "why am I doing this???" It really made me appreciate how well-rounded is Lee's skillset.

Aptly named, I believe the "axe" the route name refers to is a 15m long and thin feature that looks like it could detach from the cliff at any moment! Definitely felt full value for the grade as I didn't trust the rock I was stepping on or pulling on. Otherwise, I think it was a great climb. Fanny followed me and and didn't pull anything off so I guess I was just being paranoid.

Repeat, this time with the rock as clean as it can get without high traffic. Unfortunately I have to take few stars off after the ecstasy of the ground up first ascent wore out. The rock is all but perfect, It's short and has a sit down rest at the middle. Also, few flakes fell down leaving alternate footwork to the feet in the crack used in the first ascent. Still think it's a great little climb.

First Free Ascent. Very inspiring line that begged to be climbed. Not strictly crack climbing as all footwork is there and the wide crack can be underclung in the same fashion as it's thinner version Gravel Rash at the Underworld. Used #3#2#0.75 for the start anchor then 5x#6 (some shuffled from the very beginning) and #0.75#2 after turning the lip.

Not every day you walk past an unclimbed classic roof crack, you've got the right gear, you've got the right partner and you onsight it ground up cleaning the loose rock on the way up, pull through perfect fists and hands with feet in the crack. Dream. I decided to continue up above the crack to top out on a scary mission on suspicious dinner plates, lose dirt, caving under boulder and emerge trough a hole. I do not recommend that bit! I will go back and clean it properly top down, this climb deserves to be one of the best cracks at the grade in the Blueys and beyond. Fanny agreed, this is an amazing find.

Epic onsight in one monster pitch. Loads of gear shuffle to avoid rope drag and avoid running out of #4s. Crux was burly fist jams that made me work real hard but I didn't think I'd fall at any moment. For me doing this climb in one pitch made it truly memorable.

Nice climb, great gear

Climbs much better than it looks, I really enjoyed it. I didn't clip the bolts, good gear all the way.

Great climb. Had to fight to onsight this one.

6 shots total, fantastic climb. Is the grade a baseline for 28? I'm asking for feedback because I have no idea and I've been FA grading a fair bit of much harder 28s in the recent years. Thanks for letting me know what you think.

Third shot on this. Sorted out the ground boulder, tried Gwen's beta with knee bar but although it makes the reach easier for pinkie lock, the footwork becomes sub optimal for the next move. Back to my original beta with low feet pinkie lock is now solid 80%. Also fell off at top crux unexpectedly. Hopefully this is going down next shot.

Top crux now sorted, not using the mono which I use for gear. Mid crux goes RH pinkie lock no tape.

Awesome crack, we did it in two monster pitches

Climbed with passive gear only, there's heaps, made the climb more interesting.

Pitch 1 only. Fantastic climb! My average sausage fingers could only juuuussst fit in the second lock at a precise angle, when I worked that out it was fairly easy to get through first crux. Second crux at exit went really well but I had to grunt.

Great crack, great gear, a bit too much undercligning to my liking but very inspiring line. All dry, great friction today!

Finally completing this long chapter placing all gear from ground to end. This climb is one of a kind.

Harder than it looks from the ground. Perhaps the moist interior of the crack made it feel a bit stiff, perhaps being belayed by my 9yo little girl made it feel even stiffer 😉. Good little crack, will be more enjoyable after few months of summer drought.

World class at the grade

Insane, I can imagine people freaking out on this one! Linked the 2-3-4 together.

Really nice, end traverse unnecessary, should have anchors straight up at the break I reckon

Repeat, just too good not to be repeated

Got advised to upgrade to 24. Although all holds are big, half the gear is tricky and suspicious and this thing is horizontal. Would be three stars at piddo.

Lost at Rock-Paper-Scissors for the onsight but the conveniently located tree combined with a sore neck preserved me from getting any info on my mate's ascent! Great climb, great moves, great rock, loved it!

Warming up, got a bit more pumped than expected

Had great aspiration of flashing this but got shut down just looking at Brendan struggling at the crux. Did boulder problem ok, lost lot of energy trying the crux with the advertised beta LH thumb down and worked out my own way with RH pinkie lock second try. The ensuing moments through the remaining parts of the crux will remained etched in my memory. Then I got totally puzzled by the other crux above, I was very far from reaching the crack above the flat hold, I had to aid this move I have no idea how to get through this one. The rest was easy.

Linked all pitches together. I had three racks with me and used just a bit more than one. I occasionally walked up gear then build anchors at strategic locations. No rope drag whatsoever. I didn't notice I was in the middle of the crux of the third pitch when I questioned myself about putting long runners to reduce rope drag for the next pitch... so I downclimbed the thing to re-evaluate the sling strategy, then I realised where I was and went for it more carefully as I didn't want to blow my onsight ;-). Then every damn time I was 2/3rd up the sun was poking a hole through the cloud cover and blind me so I probably downclimbed the crux 4 times before the sun finally moved behind the cliff top so I could see and proceed with the last move which I could have done blind anyways. I think the grades for all pitches are right on the money, the crux is fair at gr23 as it's not steep, got heaps of footwork, great fingerlocks and ok hands. I really rate this climb done in one pitch as the rope management is a great part of the adventure and all climbing is super pleasant. Just avoid doing it in summer sun when it's straight in your eyes at 10-11 ish ;-)