Routes as trad in Malta

Clip in runners as you descend the lower section. 1st pitch on pockets veering leftwards and over the arete/bulge keeping to the left of the crack. 2nd pitch - straight up the crack into chimney ending. Can be climbed in 1 pitch.

Start from the ledge inside the chimney. Up the back for about 4m, move on to the right wall and make a slight traverse towards the sea until the middle of the wall. Go up and left above the chimney to a wedged boulder then vegetation to a ledge. Up the groove/crack to the top. Slings useful.

Start climbing on loose rock up until you reach a ledge a third of the way up. Pro- tection is useless up to this point. Continue on the overhang diagonally to the right up until you reach a resting position in a hole about two thirds of the way up. Climb right, out of the hole. There are a couple of good slings as protection, however placing them will drain your energy.

Climb up to a thin crack veering to the left. Follow its general direction through a sparse collection of good holds before exiting up.

Starts off easy up to an overhanging crack. Continues along the crack line to a good handle over the ledge. The original ascent was graded E1 5A but due to new found great protection it was downgraded to HVS.

Follow the vertical crack line up to a rusty peg, shift to the vertical crack line on the left and continue up.

Climb up to the flake to find a rusty sur- prise behind it. Continue to a good jug and straight to the top.

You have to put up a fight with the vege- tation for this route. Climb up to a corner midway up and continue on its right. Fin- ishes on a comfortable ledge.

A simple straightforward climb. . . straight up!

Start at the left side of the dent in the rock face and climb straight up.

Has a badly protected start but continues smoothly up.

The climb is poorly protected. Climb up to a sling about half way up the route and continue slightly to the right to access a good sling protection on the right of the right black streak. Move back to the left for the exit.

Climb up to a small roof over which you will find a rest. Continue up through a series of good pockets

The start is usually damp but continues easily following the crack line. Heavily vegetated.

A very physical overhang climb following an “obvious” line of holds.

A straightforward climb. Well protected all the way up.

Climb to a small corner, over a small bulge and continue straight up.

Climb from a corner at the bottom of the valley to a good ledge. Continue up a small overhang and then straight up.

A scarcely protected start but has nice finger holds throughout. Follows a left facing crack line from the middle of the climb.

Climb up to the right facing crack line and continue along it for most of the way up. Protection is not too abundant or satisfyingly solid.

P1 - Ascend through the weakness in the overhangs. Climb the slab above aiming for its top left side.

P2 - Up the centre of the steeper slab above. Continue up with difficulty to a narrow ledge (a hanging plaque commemorates the 1st and 2nd ascents). Sign the guest book!

P3 - Continue up the exposed slab with good moves and exposure to the top.

1 - 50m 5a. Climb the shallow groove just right of the overhangs. At the black bulge step left then traverse left across black slabs to solid, curvy rock on the arete. Up this sensationally for 10m. Step left around the arete with your hands level with a shelf. Once round step back right to the arete above. Avoid the bulge by another step left. Up sharp grey slabs to a ledge. 2 - 20m 4a. Up easy grey slabs to the terrace above Pilar Box Descent

A direct on The Division Bell. Takes the steep crack directly above the black slabs. Nuts about Rock 7 size are crucial

Belay as for The Division Bell, 6m right of the star shaped hole.

50m 5c. Up easy angled rock just right of the slight groove to a white bulge at 10m. Over to follow a rightward ramp under a rightward leaning overhang. Go up left to a fig tree then right to an awkward blunt arete, then a thread at the righthand end of a bulge. Take the difficult crack to the right then the wall left of a bush.

20m 4a. Up easy slabs above

Starting 20m right along the shelf from the edge of the buttress, take an indefinite line up to a steep groove and walls above. Up slabs, easily at first, to a short groove. Continue directly up the juggy overhanging wall, thread, then the steep, less endowed wall above to a small ledge. Climb in the same line on sharp rock to finish up a steep chimney right of a long diagonal crack.

7m right of Crossly Notes is a line up the vague white groove left of a steep red central pillar capped by a prow. Start 30m along the shelf just up and left of a vegetated ledge. Surprising holds.

20m 5a. Go diagonally left up the slabs to below the white groove. Awkward moves up the groove. Exit right across ledges to a 2 piton and nut belay.

40 5b. Traverse to the left end of the ledges. Bold moves lead up and left on black rock to a hole, 2 threads. Up and left again across a black wall, piton. After 3m move to regain the groove and improving holds (and gear), to under a leftward leaning overlap. After 3m traverse diagonally left to finish up a stragely featured wall right of a vegetated corner. Belay from cracks below easy slabs in the left side of the pillar above a prow.

20m 4a. Easy slabs trending as far right as you can to thread belays at a ledge. Magnificent!

A brilliant route taking the red, barrel shaped wall and the prow above direct, high in the grade. Starts as for Wish You Were Here?.

1 - 20m 5a. The slabs and white groove as for WYWH to the 2 piton and nut belay on the ledge.

2 - 35m 5c. Go straight over the bulge above (friend 3 or near useful). Step right with difficulty. Up and left to small nuts, traverse right delicately to near the right edge of the buttress. Continue up for 10m until you can gain the right end of a handrail, thread, leading up and left to a short corner crack under the prow. Good hidden holds and nut protection lead to an 'out of this world' stance on the lip of the prow. Nut belays up and left.

3 20m 4b. To the top of the pillar and diagonally right across easy slabs to thread belays above the ledge.

Starts 35m along a shelf to the right of the buttress edge with a window in below a slabby wall and just right of a grassy ledge.

1 - 20m 5a. Up the easy grey slab, then take the short steeper wall up left to a narrow ledge and the 2 piton belay on WYWH.

2 - 32m 5a. Skirt to the right of the bulging wall keeping just left of the vegetation until moves up and right gain a vegetated alcove below a small roof. Threads left and right. Move right above the roff then back left on black rock (spike runners), until below a blind crack and fault leading diagonally left. Follow this and the wall above keeping right of a short vegetated corner. Step left to a stance at the top of the pillar above the prow.

3 - 20m 4b. Diagonally right up slabs to (threads) above the ledge.

The exit for Continuation WallLow Level and Central Traverses. It is an adventure more than a climb! Can also be used as a descent - fishermen have been doing it for centuries! Start at the large platform below Bamboo Ledge

1 - 4a. Walk righ to Pillar Box Cave Slab, up this for 10m to Bamboo Ledge.

2 - 4c. Cross PBC Slab, go up and right to a steel bollard and a broken easy ramp leading right to the vegetated bay of PBC.

3 - 4a. Walk into and up the floor and back narrows of the cave, scramble up the righthand wall and through the pillar-box.

4 - 4a. Follow cut holds up the prow, left of the small terrace.

First route to the left when looking at the bolder. Start between the vegetation and the corner of the block

Runs up the crack line

Start under the little bolder and up over the roof

Start 2 meters right of John Graham, past the roof, follow the crack then up

Starts under the right corner of the big block, past the roof and up the arete

start 1 meter to left of Bobo's roof, into corner

Variante of Gallerija, half way up the corner head right of the bolder

Takes the left edge of the two massive flakes perched up and right of the clearing

Ascend the short white wall just right of the vegetation to a terrace. Trend left to the pointed flake, then directly to the top. A direct start climbs the bulge left of the vegetation at VS 4c - 'Knot on your Life'

From the vegetated terrace follow the cracks and blocks up the overlap.

Climb the wall to the left of the leaning block to reach its vegetated top

Continue from the top of the leaning block to another vegetated ledge. Move right along this to a niche then delicately left towards a scoop. Up the overlap to finish.

Brilliant lay-backing up the right side of the perched flake, starting at a shallow gully right of the dry stone wall, finishing up the thin diagonal crack.

Starting from a gorse filled ledge, up the slab and thin curving crack to the hanging piton. Desperately left into the sloping groove. Finish more easily up the upper slabs.

Start in the middle of the vegetated ledge system. Up a poorly protected slab to better geared slabs then small ledges below the steep wall. Gain a diagonal fault (camming Ns). Spaced hidden moves out right then a step back left over an overlap to reach a belay.

Climb up to the crescent shaped vegetated ledge at half height. Move up and left across the steep slab then back right to finish 3m left of the curving crack.

Up the curving crack to reach a line which traverses left across the Enigma slab, finishing up easier ground well to the left.

Follows the tempting, open curving flake crack, majestically lay-backing the overlap using hexes and cams. A classic. The Italian Military extended the route, starting from a ledge 7m down (good) and unnecessarily bolted it to death (bad).

Start up Curving Crack but then move right to finish up the rib.

From the base of Curving Crack traverse right below a nose to finish up the crack on the right. Exposed and scrappy.

Rock is flaky on the thin part and hard to protect. R rating for a potential fall onto the ledge below. Take care.