Routes in Africa for selected grade

Halfway up the ascent gully on the left hand side there is a smaller gully in the rock which may be ascended to chains at the top.

Start on the Southeast side of the mountain at a large orange flake.

Pitch 1 Starts at 3m flake crack which leads up to a groove. Up groove to belay on grass ledge. Short pitch with good view of following party at the belay ledge.

Pitch 2 Along grass ledge to prominent chimney on right, climb chimney to chock stone at crest. Chimney can easily be soloed. A fun variation exists on the face of the tower which allows for some fun and exposed moves. Be aware of loose choss. Especially since there will most likely be local children watching from below.

Pitch 3 Up awkward corner above to platform below summit block. Or easier rising traverse to left then up. Climb left-hand arête to summit. Or as 'North Face Route' Descend the same way you come up, or use the bolted anchor to abseil to a ledge with a large tree and cactus. A 70 meter rope will allow for a single abseil to the bottom, or a 60 meter rope will require re-rigging at the tree. Use good rope practices while rappelling and avoid getting your rope lodge in any slots during retrieval.

only rap anchors

Up the chimney 5m left of Lustknabe.

Up chimney just left of previous routes.

Left of 'Groothoek Gully' is a large block with a large tree on top. The climb proper starts on this block.

1. (6) Scramble up block. On top of the block find a corner with an overhang 5m up.

2. (11) Climb up the corner on the left face below the overhang. Traverse left around corner and up on good holds into a chimney above. About 5m into the chimney is a good block-belay.

3. (11) Continue up chimney to a large ledge. Crux has good holds and is well protected with a #3 C4 SLCD.

4. (9) Move around the corner on the extreme right hand side of the large ledge, from this point climbing continues up on good holds with a few steep moves in-between.

5. (8) Continue up until climbing becomes a scramble.

Variations:

(Pitch 3 & 4, 15): From the large ledge, move onte the left hand face at a point about 5m left of the main corner. Climb diagonally leftwards up face to the top. (2002, A. George, A. Porter)

Start as for FNJ, continue traversing left beneath the steep rock, continue up the recess between the two major faces, stance where necessary and follow your nose to the top up easy rock.

1. 21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.

2. 17 Follow the crack straight to the top.

Start at the base of an open book and follow your nose to a ledge with trees

Up to bolt then right to share chains of Loula

Starts on the right side of the hut on the granite slope. The route moves directly up. Ideal for beginners sport climbing.

Opened in a single 45m pitch on double ropes, this line follows the right hand crack on the south-eastern side of the crag to a point 50m below the summit. To get down, scramble under the boulders to the left at the top of the climb and scramble down the steep gully on the crag's southern side (to your right as you exit from under the boulders).

1. 18m (D) Commence on grey face 90m to right of frontal climb. Vertical 4m, horizontal 2. 10m to chimney, vertila 4m.

2. 9m (E2) Traverse 90m right around corner into deep chimney. Up chimney under chockstone.

3. 33m (D) Proceed vertically up 24m over loose stone and grass. Enter crack on right-hand face facing south, finishing on nose with large boulder, 9m.

4. 20m (D) Up slightly overhung face then right under pronounced overhang.

5. 11m (D) Climb up to boulder then right and up vertical sandstone with good handholds.

Proceed up gully to neck between Zimbabwe and the main escarpment.

Approximately 1.5km north of Zimbabwe buttress there is a long diagonal cleft (gully). The climb starts about 350m to the right of this diagonal cleft beneath the dome. 17m (D) Left of red corner with pronounced overhang in crack, climb under and behind chockstone.

1. 15m (E2) Straddle up corner.

2. 20m (E2) Follow crack to left of cone-shaped grey face.

3. 21m (D) Traverse 33m to left on grass. Commence vertically under overhang, go right 2m and then up over corner.

4. 18m (D) Up chimney under chockstone.

5. Easy scramble up long gully. Finish at back of arete.

Descent: Proceed into main gully and down as far as waterfall over rockbands. Continue around left (facing mountain).

To the left of Afternoon Ascension one can see a big black face high up. 80m to the left of that a red pillar is clearly visible. The climb start in the corner directly below the right hand side of the pillar.

1. 40m (F1) Climb vegetated recess to ledge. Climb face with two prominent knobs behind tree. Follow recess above to big ledge.

2. 30m (F1) Climb chimney via chockstone to top.

This climb follows the ridge 50m to the right of African Bee. Most of the route is fairly obvious. At the top rock band a leftward detour from a recess onto a face is necessary.

On the same buttress as Prelude there are two prominent cracks in the form of a V. Start just to the right of the left arm of a smaller inverted V cone, which is just to the left of the junction of the large V cracks.

1. 27m (E1) Ascend an obvious route, about 3m to the right of the recess, for 13m. Move to the left, and then climb up to the next big tree.

2. 13m (F1) Climb diagonally up to the right from the right-hand side of the stance then climb to a wide grass band. Walk to the right to the front of the right-hand crack and scramble up to a large tree.

3. 30m (F1) Climb 3m up the crack behind the tree. Move to the right for 4m and then climb the right-hand side of the recess. Piton belays are necessary and loose rock presents a hazard.

4. 40m (E2) Here the route is suitable beaconed. Traverse on a ledge out onto the right-hand face. Mantelshelf onto the next ledge and then ascend the centre of the face passing two beacons en route. Traverse to the left back to another beacon, ascend the recess for 1m and then traverse to the right back to the centre of the face. Carry on straight up to a large stance.

5. 30m (F1) From the back of the stance, ascend for 3m before traversing to the left to a right-angled crack. Climb a tricky 3m and continue to the left to a tree in a recess about 5m below a large overhang. Move to the left on an obvious and very exposed ledge. Either 'dassie traverse' on this ledge or climb up 1m to the next ledge and traverse on finger tips to a boulder belay point.

6. 33m (E2) Zig-zag up an exposed face using a series of mantelshelf moves to reach a good stance with a cairn on it.

7. 43m (D) Move diagonally off to the right for 13m. Easily scramble to the top.

This route climbs the easy rock to the right of BAPM, then crosses BAPM and ARTHER and tops out far to the left.

1. 20m 10 Diagonally up right then back left to ledge beneath BAPM's 2nd pitch.

2. 30m 12 Climb the main diagonal corner to the right of the candleflame then straight up short steep face to a small stance.

3. 30m 12 Move up and left to the big ledge below BAPM's top pitch.

4. 40m 11 Traverse about 30m left (crossing BAPM and ARTHUR) and pick the easiest line to the top.

Climbs the obvious gully half way between The Ramp and the Main Wall.

1. 50m 5 Scramble up to the foot of a dry waterfall.

2. 33m 10 Ascend the face to a thin tree belay in a recess.

3. 25m 12 Move out left, up, and back into a recess. Continue up to the overhang and move out right (12) onto an extensive ledge.

4. Scramble for 100m up bushy gully.

5. 33m 10 From this point the route veers off to the right of the main trend of the gully which becomes unclimbable. Ascend the face to a small ledge (piton belay).

6. 23m 7 Continue up face to a tree belay in a slight recess.

7. 33m 10 Continue straight up until about 20m beneath overhanging rock.

8. 33m 7 Traverse right.

9. 33m 10 Traverse right, ascend a little and continue traversing.

10. 33m 10 Traverse right, ascending at intervals.

11. 33m 10 Climb down a little, then climb diagonally up to the right. Scramble to the top.

Notes:

1. The route as written up is quite difficult to follow, and most people end up climbing something harder than 13, sometimes even as hard as 19!

Climb the obvious crack about 2m to the left of Craic, trending left at the top to the top-anchors of Spin-Aréte.

The climb starts on the opposite side of the buttress from Waterspout. Walk around the buttress, in the direction of the river, and the climb is in the back of an open book. Climb the obvious crack in the bushy corner, ending in a notch on top of the buttress. Waterspout's top anchors can be used for a belay, but are not well placed to be used for top-roping.

Start to the right of Craic, climbing the easy bulgy face into a short open book. Exit left onto a ramp and scramble up to the tree above Incy Wincy Spider.

Go up the large break tending leftward away from the central tree, when you get to a thick vine climb straight up on the right hand side of it.

On the south eastern facing wall of the gulley, Take the break where the furthest left hand roots of the central tree reach. Staying in the broken crack system passing the jagged 'teeth'

Starts on right-hand side of a grey slab in a recess, right of 'One-eyed Jack'.

1. 15m 10 Climb right-hand side of grey slab to ledge. Belay in corner as for ONE-EYED JACK

2. 20m 11 Traverse right across a face to a recess and a crack system (two small trees). Climb the right-hand crack and face to the top.

Start climb at high point 30m left of meeting place at an obvious black chimney with prominent small tree 10m up.

1. [11] 35m

   Ascend 10m to tree, then climb over bulge. Traverse left for 6m then move straight small corner to stance.

2. [9] 30m

   Climb up vertical wall above on good holds.

Goes up prominent corner recess to left of a cave 30m east of 'Cave Crag'. Follows recess to two-thirds of height, crosses to face on right then straight upward.

The start of this climb may be located by reference to three caves near the base of the rook and spaced about 30m apart. The route commences about 9m to the left of the most westerly of these three caves, in a small recess, and is marked by a beacon at ground level. The starting point is actually on a broad grass ledge which is reached by clambering over a rocky slope at the bottom of the krantz. Between the starting point and the cave on the right there is a natural feature on the rock having the appearance of an inverted broad arrow chiselled into the rock. This is greenish-yellow in colour.

1. 18m 9 From the beacon work up in the recess towards the left then traverse right over the top of the recess, thence upwards to the right towards the crack immediately above the cave. This crack is covered with aloes and a stance on a small ledge is found on the edge of these aloes almost in the crack.

2. 18m 11 From the stance in the crack step to left thence vertically upwards over good sound rock to a large sloping ledge.

3. 18m 8 This section is obvious and a number of easy alternatives present themselves. The most vertical is the best.

4. 25m 8 Work up to the final rock slope on the right or left of an overhanging rock immediately above the 'cave crack'.

Note: The rock is sound and holds good. The first stance can accommodate two people only with comfort. Top section is disappointing after the first two pitches.

Start on the sloping wall about 5m to the left of 'Hanging Boulder'.

1. 25m 10 Ascend bearing slightly right, parallel with a groove, to a small ledge that is actually the top of a large flake in the ridge overlooking the HANGING BOULDER gully (small stance).

2. 15m 11 From the top of the flake ascend vertically keeping slightly to the left to a large ledge.

3. 12m 8 Ascend vertically to the big ledge with boulder and thus immediately beneath the overhang that forms the top of the 'frame'.

4. 12m 8 Descend 6m to a ledge and traverse to the right along a narrow extension of this into the top right-hand corner of the frame. Traverse along a ledge around the corner and up to the final stance.

Follows the ridge on the left-hand side of the 'Frame Route', i.e. up the left edge below the overhang from which the FRAME derives its name. The climb has four pitches all of which are grade 8 except for the beginning of the third which is grade 9.

The start is easily located by reference to a prominent crack leading up to overhanging rocks, which are split and appear to be blocked by aloes. The climb follows the crack in two 9 pitches to a point just below the overhanging rock on the right, then traverses outward, and down to a point about 10m to the right of the crack. From here the route goes vertically upwards.

An alternative route opened by T. Louw and W. Curle goes straight up the crack through the split overhang. (10)

Not a particularly inviting climb but longer than others in the area. Numerous belays. Starts 5 - 10m left of 'Zig Zag'.

1. 15m 9 Choose a route up the buttress to a large rock split off the corner.

2. 22m 10 Diagonally up to the right inside the frame to a recess above some aloes 12m, then 9m up.

3. 12m 11 Traverse left onto the nose and up to a large tree which marks the junction of to route with RACK ROUTE.

4. 22m 9 Up the chimney for 3m onto a chockstone. Traverse right onto the face or into next gully. Climb 12m up until a small overhang is reached. A scramble takes one off the climb.

May commence at the same point as 'Prometheus' but a point 10m up a slope to the left marks the usual start.

1. 15m 9 Up in the recess on left of sloping face.

2. 12m 10 Traverse right to a point directly above the start of 'Prometheus'.

3. 25m 10 Up 9m and traverse left to edge of crack then vertically up to large tree which is point of junction with 'Prometheus'.

4. 22m 9 Work over to left below overhang then up to easier rock to summit.

Starts a few meters to left of 'Other Kingdom' on the ridge instead of recess and overlaps part of the first pitch of that climb. The route goes straight up from that point passing to the left of the large clump of aloes referred to in the second pitch of 'Other Kingdom'. The first two pitches are of 10 standard and face climbing is the main feature.

Start in main descent gully to the right of large cave seen 10m above.

1. 40m 11 Climb straight up the arete to the top (A difficult move at the start, a grade 15 bulging crack, can be avoided if desired - 11).

45m right of 'Tower Of Pisa' and 4-5m left of 'No Highway'.

1. 35m 11 Climb diagonally left from some large blocks to a defined recess. Continue up the recess for 25m to a small overhang, step over right and up to a ledge. Traverse right for 3-4m and up to next ledge below a wall.

2. 25m 11 Step up and traverse diagonally right across the wall to the edge and arete. Continue up the arete keeping left and aiming for some blocks on top.

Note: A very pleasant climb on good rock.

The climb takes a route up a giant V-shaped recess 18m left of 'Tower Of Pisa' .

1. 40m 9 Climb straight up recess.

2. 25m 10 Move left and up a step as for the chimney. Traverse left to another step. Continue traversing left to an edge. Continue moving left across small open books to easy ground. Advisable to belay here.

3. ?m 8 Continue to climb up diagonally left on grade 8 rock to top.

Variation:

2 25m 13 Continue up the chimney above unstable rock to a ledge. Traverse, left for 5m and continue up the ledge on loose rock. (This pitch is not recommended.)

Starts at the foot of the ridge at the lowest point to the east of the western descent gully.

1. 30m 10 Start from the obvious tree and climb up slightly left of the ridge. At 25m move left and mantle shelf onto a sloping ledge. Continue up the wall to belay.

2. 25m 9 Step right and climb directly to the top over a series of large steps.

Note: The party was feeling its age.

Starts at top of grass slope about 45m to left of broken, overhanging and cave-ridden blackish rock.

1. 30m 8 From start bear left over rock to prominent grass ledge.

2. 30m 3 Traverse along grass ledge to right 30m to base of ridge forming western bounds of a recess below brownish broken overhangs.

3. 25m 10 Bear over to face on right then work back to left across recess to ridge above starting point.

4. 25m 9 Traverse right across recess and below brown overhangs to crack on right of overhangs.

5. 25m 9 Vertically up 9m then traverse left to top of overhangs.

Note: Route involves a considerable amount of traversing.

A clearly defined cleft or crack extending the whole height of the krantz and about 45m to left of start of 'Rheebok Crag'. There is a clump of three trees - the only ones in the vicinity - at the top of the slope to the right of the cleft.

1. 18m 8 Up ridge to left of recess leading to grass ledge.

2. 25m 10 Original route proceeds straight up cleft on right but a more interesting variation is to start on face to left of cleft. The first 5m involves a difficult section thence easing off on a route which bears to right and joins the cleft.

3. 18m 9 Climb on left ridge of cleft up to a tree where cleft widens out into a crack forming a sort of cave.

4. 18m 8 Chimney work up interior to cleft.

The first pitch is the same as that for 'Aloe Cleft', but when the grass ledge is reached, traverse left to a rock buttress about 6m high.

1. 18m 8 As for 'Aloe Cleft'.

2. 25m 10 Up on right of buttress then bear right through a broken overhanging section to easier rock above.

3. 22m 9 Bear left to an adequate stance on grassy ledge directly above buttress.

4. 25m 8 An obvious route direct to top.

Variation: An alternative route from the top buttress may be taken for the second pitch. This goes up a face to left of the route described, is grade 9 and joins up at the grass ledge.

The start of this climb may be recognised by a huge wedge-shaped rook near the top of the krantz which appears to be stuck in a recess formed by a face on its right and an overhanging buttress on its left. This feature is 100 - 150m left of 'Aloe Cleft'.

1. 18m 7 Scramble up easy grey face to grass ledge.

2. 28m 10 Ascend grey face to right of buttress immediately below wedge-shaped rook at top of climb. This route goes up just to right of a recess formed between buttress and face.

3. 25m 10 Traverse right 12m then up inclining to right making for stance be low crack.

4. 12m 9 Up in recess or crack to a stance below overhanging block on right of wedge-shaped rock previously referred to and on the same level as its base.

5. 12m 9 To right around block into recess then straight up.

Variations: These variations are of like standard to the second and final pitches. Instead of the last 2 pitches, climb prominent white ridge to the right.

This climb is usually commenced from the top of the grass slope a few meters right of 'Eureka Gully' , and ascends the first band of rock in 2 or 3 pitches of 9 standard to the broad grass ledge. Start from the grass ledge below a long grey face to the left of EUREKA FACE. The climb proceeds straight up the face in a series of pitches of grade 9.

Starting almost in the gully, this climb follows an almost direct line over the grass ledge and straight to the summit. The start from the grass ledge is cairned.

Immediately to right of 'Four Man Gully' the crag is steep and foreboding. Further to right the upper section of the face lies back in the form of a bay or large recess where a good size tree is growing 20m below the top of the krantz. Below this tree is a smooth 6m slab which on closer acquaintance proves to be deeply slotted. It is bounded on the left by a wall and above by a clean-cut overhang tapering away to the right. The route attains the foot of the slab by a 15m grassy crack running up to the left. The slab can either be avoided by a 5m traverse right and an ascent of the rocks immediately to the right of the slab, but more merit is acquired by ascending the corner on the left of the slab and crossing the top of the slab to the right just below the overhang. The large bay is now reached whence an easy route could be made out to the left. It is more interesting however, to continue the direct line of the climb and avoid the final wall by a traverse on to the buttress on the right.

Variation (not recommended – loose rock): The lower section has been more recently climbed as follows:

1. 15m 10 Climb the semi-grassy crack running up left into an open book.

2. 10m 11 Move up and left to the foot of an inverted pyramid of rock where tons of rock appear to be supported on a single small square block. Enter the crack to the right, move delicately round the pyramid and climb onto its front edge. Continue onto the long grassy slope below the upper section.

The gully to the left of Eureka Buttress. This is blocked by a series of huge overhanging chockstones, the surmounting of which involves a short pitch of grade 10 climbing on the right.

15m upstream from 'Wassail'.

1. 20m 9 Start in a deep recess and climb bearing left to a small corner. Climb up, bear slightly right and then back left to a good stance.

2. 25m 8 Continue straight up keeping right in a wide recess to the top.

Start on the true right-hand wall of the kloof opposite the junction with NETTLE GULLY in a gully ending in steep rock (downstream of 'Grotesque').

1. 40m 7 Start at the base of the grey face and climb/scramble 15m onto a wide ledge. Move right past the gully that forms the base of a prominent chimney with two overhangs. Climb the right-hand wall of the gully to a stance 15m above ledge. (This pitch can be divided into two sections if an intermediate stance is made at the ledge at the base of the gully.)

2. 35m 11 Move left from the stance and diagonally upwards to the base of the chimney and climb to the top.

Start 50m upstream from STAMVRUG GULLY and right of 'Pad Pad', 20m above the stream level.

1. 45m 10 Climb the sloping grey pillar that has a vertical wall on its left-hand side. The climb steepens towards the top.

Start left of 'Vuil Pheiler'. The climb follows a slab which narrows to one meter at the top.

1. 30m 8 Climb on the slab (easy at first) to a small tree where the rock is red.

2. 15m 11 Continue straight up to the top.