Routes in Arapiles for selected grade

ATTENTION: There can be a Bee Hive on this route, take care.

The major corner, facing the second cave.

Start: 3m R of 'Revolver Crack' up major corner facing second cave. Step left to finish.

The crack.

Start: 3.5m right of CC.

Sit start

Try to stay out of the chimney, then finish up the crack on the R. The direct finish has also been done by Peter Lindorff.

Start just R of the descent chimney.

Rotten crack.

Start: Start off the ledge on the E side of the pinnacle.

See if you can pick the theme running here?

Start: 4m Right of VIMH below an obvious corner.

Up corner to roof which is swung around to the right.

Start: Continue down the wall from SSSBI57. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is an obvious leftward diagonal. Start below the right end of this diagonal.

Up to gain the diagonal which is followed until it seems to make sense to swing back right and up.

Loose flake then lichen. Reachy.

Start: Start 1m R of F.

An excellent approach for Dinosaur and Asteroid. The obvious thin finger crack in the dihedral. Eats up small cams

Start: Start just R of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork.

Start: Start a couple of metres R of S.

1. 15m (15) The R crack to the ledge.

2. 15m (14) The wide crack in the L-facing corner above the ledge.

As for C for 10m then R and up arete.

Start: Start as for C.

The start of this doesn't look too bad but the gully is woeful. Maybe would be better finishing up the arete on the left.

On a small grey wall 50m beyond Catcher to the R of the main gully. Up to a jug at 3m, 3m R of the block at the base of the wall. Arrange small wires, make a thin move and continue more easily.

Up middle of face.

Start: Start at the base of the pinnacle right of Two Years in a Shed in Norway.

Grade is a guess as none was given. Crack 3 metres right of 'Serious Young Lizards'.

The crack, moving R at overhang.

Start: Start just R of C-O at the obvious offwidth crack.

Climbs the tricky crack in the middle of the wall past two bulges and a small cave.

Start: Start at tiny crack in middle of wall under a cave higher up.

Worth roping up for the traverse to the base, and for the traverse off L at the top to the rap anchor. Start 6m R of Reunion, R of orange cave.

Start: Start in the gully R of PW.

1. 20m (15) Chimney to the ledge.

2. 20m (15) 'Small' crack to slopey ledge, R then back L via spooky block.

If it weren't for the scrappy finish and the intermittent bee problems, this excellent traverse would get 2 stars. Start as for WoI then traverse the funky holes across the entire wall to the arete. Best to belay here due to drag. Finish easily up the front of buttress beside (or on) Clytemnestra Buttress, or move back R to the GG anchor.

...is another man's FA! Step across the block from the Necrophiliac anchor. Follow the dodgy rock across then up and over the overhang. Can belay using the Telemachus backup anchor bolt then rap from the Telemachus anchor.

Left curving crack with a few nice jams. Lower-offs (25m).

A link-up of the first part of Bandwagon into the finish of Passionate Tips.

Fairly ordinary. Start on the back of the Piccolo Pipe, about 5m L of Lemmington.

Up unprotected face two metres L of D Minor then a short crack to join D Minor.

Good, varied climbing. Take some large hexes for the second pitch as the cams tend to walk their way open in a couple of spots. Start at the thin crack on the right wall of the gully.

1. 15m (15) Excellent finger layback crack on right wall of gully. Gear is excellent but pumped desperate leaders have run it out in the past and taken large falls.

2. 35m (15) Up the widening crack and left across the sickle into Holpyp. Up over the roof and carry on.

The left arete of the Didgeridoo buttress (the abseil route) looks good but protection is fiddly and there's a large hollow block that would ruin your day if it came off. Start as for Didgeridoo/Horn Piece.

A toprope route keeping just right of Horn Piece offers another option for a busy day. Rig from the Horn Piece bolts - long slings or cordalette. Could be lead-climbed but it is somewhat contrived and initial slab is unprotected - no bolt please. Start 2m right of Horn Piece just left of grotty crack. Slab to bushy crack. After crack follow Rhand side of arete. Pass small triangular overhang then move R and up to anchor.

Start at a crack just right of the second pitch of Conifer Crack. This looks ordinary but it makes for a good continuation from Horn Piece or the other single pitches that lead to the big ledge.

As per the Old Green Guide: "DISCORD (140'):- A sustained and technically interesting climb with excellent protection. Grade:- Hard Severe

1. 40' Move right up the ramp leading to the base of Toccata and about 15' to the left of Toccata, traverse left a few feet to a good ledge and bolt runner. Climb the shallow groove with difficulty to a resting place and a second bolt runner. Move out right and attain a standing position on top of the obvious square block on the smooth face on the right. Move back left to a good ledge and bolt belay a few feet above the last runner.

2. 100' Step four feet onto the arête and go up to beneath the overhangs. Move back right to join the original line and fix the first runner of the second pitch. Continue in the same line, via a narrow awkward chimney, to the top.

A stunning line on glorious water-washed rock. Protection is excellent despite how it may look, and huge camming devices are not essential. Take two ropes if doing the abseil. Start below the large smooth corner at the right end of the Organ Pipes.

1. 27m (15) Sustained climbing up the corner to hard moves past the little roof into a bottomless chimney. Up to a good ledge.

2. 23m (13) The lovely square-cut chimney. Rap off (45m) or walk up the gully to the top.

The rightmost of the twin cracks on the big block in front of Toccata. Walk off behind.

Lovely corner on the second pitch. Scramble up the gully right of Toccata under a chockstone to below an easy wall. Could also start as for Yossarian but it doesn't add much value.

1. 13m (-) Climb up to Yossarian's first belay then move right and up to belay on the obvious block below the right side of the prominent roof. You could also do the direct start to Deflated which is just a few metres to the right.

2. 35m (15) Difficult move up to right side of roof (RPs essential) then continue up corner.

The arete that points towards the campground. Up to obvious orange groove, R at bulge, then up.

Good.

About 20m west of Mr. Blobby there is a gully with a short line on the left wall.

Up crack.

A beautiful route. Take care at the start. Start as for Jason. Tricky moves up and L onto the front of the nose, then follow the nose to the top - veering L quite close to Pedro at half height. The pro is mainly small wires - take plenty and make sure you are proficient at placing them.

Climb the corner.

Start: Start beneath the main L-facing corner.

Short orange wall, step L, up to ledge, step R and up.

Start: Start 15m L of GL at L rounded sickle incut, behind a small gum tree and 3m L of a scrappy gully.

The big L-facing flake.

Start: Start R of SS.

The rounded arete to the ledge, then a poorly protected grey slab and orange overlap. If you want a boring but better protected finish try the crack on the right.

Start: Start at the arete just R of F.

Up the line and exit left.

Start: Start just L of the highest part of the wall.

As for Z then up L onto flake and up.

Start: Start as for Z.

Start just right of 'Charity' and after 1m join Great Pissing Ledges.

Much better now its retro bolted. Between 'Charity' and 'Hope' are 2 other cracks that stop at a small roof. Up the right hand of these cracks to roof, continue up through overlap and up slab with bolt.

Climb the face to small roof, traverse left and over the roof on good rock.

Start: Just right and up from 'Charity Buttress' is a small wall.

Climb the wall L of the easy crack (Eat Your Greens) by way of large scoops, then veering L after Brown Thumb's second bolt and up to anchor. Not heaps of gear (though Nod reckons it's "well protected"!). You can go direct which is not much harder but is quite runout.

The R line, 1.5m right of Babylon. Balancy start to first gear at 4m. Up intermittent crack to shared anchor with Babylon.

Good climbing with thin moves low down and with an overhanging groove high on the cliff. Can be done in a single long pitch or can break at a couple of places (15m or 40m). Was graded 17 before the bolt went in. Start about 5-6 metres left of the giant chockstone, below a thin seam Up to seam and up this (FH) then easy ground just right of bushy groove until line steepens (optional belay on large ledge to left). Follow the line, finishing up overhanging groove to the final easy slabby stuff. (optional belay at start of easy ground).

The arete right of the first pitch of Eskimo Nell. Not a great choice of placements on the first half. Take a pink (0,5) Tricam (seriously) and Metolius 0. Start just left of the arete right of the initial crack of Eskimo Nell. Follow seams just left of arete (crux, fiddly gear or long stick-clip) to bolt and onto a narrow ledge. Move right to the arete and up arete into a broken area. Don't veer off but finish steeply up the arete. Rap anchor (not lower-off).

Start under the chimney in the centre of the wall. Thrash up the steep flaring chimney, finishing right.

3m up Lennox, then head diagonally R to ledge, 2m further R, then up flake. Take lots of cams. Start as for L.

Start below tiny steep corner in arete R of G. Pull up the buckety arete, up to ledge and up groove. Start just R of G.

From the ledge on NPFF, head up intermittant flakes leading onto the right wall and up to anchor on NS.

A tricky start, then it's easier to the halfway ledge (at which point you still have no pro). Follow the weakness just L of the R arete of the wall.

Start: Start around the back of 'Fang Buttress', just across the gap from Ali's.

Up to overhang at 4m, go L under it, then up. Has been done direct through the overhang at 21, by Col Reece, Greg Moore, 1979.

Start: Start 4m R of 'Mantis'.

Up crack following big holds to ledge then take headwall.

Start: Start 5 metres up right of Wizard below short crack thingy.

The chimney

L leaning line of jugs to topout.

Chimney that can be bridged without any grim climbing. Start at the far L end of the ledge.

Start down R from Recent Theft.

1. 30m (13) Short wall to ledge, and step R. The next section, up the peapod corner and then some face moves rightwards, is great. Easy ground leads 15m up and left to a large ledge. This pitch is actually borrowed from Lock-Up; Bulger originally started further up left, 5m R of Unrequited, and traversed in to climb the not-as-good rambly pedestal.

2. 30m (15) The steep corner crack, with airy hand jamming.

When approaching along Flinders Lane from Ali Baba's Cave, start at the first L-facing corner you get to on 'Seneca Wall'. This is directly above the rap anchor down Tiger Wall.

P1 (20m, 12) Up the corner, with a low roof on the R.

P2 (35m, 15) Up 6m then step L and up ramp to arete,

A monster girdle. Why would you bother.

Start: Start as for EC.

Marvelous if you love 300m of downclimbing.

1. 30m as for Eagle Cleft.

2. 33m As or Hawk.

3. 39m Traverse R to a crack, then mantleshelf downwards(wha-a-a-t?) until it's possible to reverse Kaiser's 3rd pitch.

4. 30m Pitch 3 of Resignation, but move R above overhang to a narrow ledge.

5. 18m Go behind obvious block, downclimb arete, along a ledge, then bridge across a 2m gap.

6. 34m Along Kestrel's ledge, step down and climb across to Yo-Yo's third belay

7. Meander R past Syrinx and the Wobble

8. Meander R past Syrinx and the Wobble

9. Meander R past Syrinx and the Wobble

10. Meander R past Syrinx and the Wobble

The first 2 pitches are great but the rest is ordinary.

Start: Start at the next strong crack line about 10m R of 'Marbuck'.

1. 38m (15) Up the crack then, a few metres after it starts taking you diagonally L (towards Marbuck's big roof), traverse back R along a horizontal weakness to a ledge.

2. 15m (15) Up steepish wall to breach the overhangs between two fairly prominent noses of rock.

3. 30m (-) Traverse 10m L to the crack on 'Marbuck' pitch 3 (you might want to step down for the last bit). Up the crack then L.

4. 25m (-) Up the chimney/gully thing to Flinders Lane.

Classic. Start up first two pitches of Kaiser, finish up top two pitches of Resignation (15,13, 15,12).

A well loved classic, but it deteriorates towards the top.

Start: Start 3m R of EMM (12m R of K).

1. 35m (10) Up the rib, trending a bit L near the top to a good ledge above No Future's rap anchor. With a 60m rope and long runners you can string the 1st two pitches together.

2. 15m (15) Head for the main weakness in the big roofs: a recess between two prominent noses (shared with 'Kaiser' p2). Belay just above them.

3. 23m (15) Climb right to good holds and up through the steepness, slightly runout. Once over the bulge head up left to the belay.

4. 23m (11) Trend R up to Flinders Lane.

Start at the 1st belay of 'Resignation'.

1. 15m (15) Up the wall into a loose orange corner, which is about 5m R of the two prominent noses on p2 of the original.

2. 55m (15) Follow the original p3 R and through the juggy overhang. Instead of trending back L, trend R up the vertical face at one o'clock for 20m via continually interesting moves and equally interesting runouts. It then eases briefly before a final tricky short undercut corner to gain Flinders Lane.

Up the starting ramp as for Kestrel, step right up a few easy blocks the then left up left leaning shallow corner. Head directly up through shallow overlaps and towards the top keep 3 metres left of Pfeffernusse before a final reach right to the rap chains beneath large overlap.

Avoiding the crux of Pfeffernusse through starting as for Flying Moose and continue up a few easy block to beneath the slabby section, then finish as for Pfeffernusse.

Goes quite a way up 'Syrinx' and then breaks out left and probably hits the 'Yo Yo' Variant finish at some point.

1. 15m (11) Left front side of 'Syrinx' chimney. This is what most people climb as the first pitch of Syrinx these days.

2. 45m (11) Up as for 'Syrinx' to old peg belay above the smooth wall (half way up Syrinx's 3rd pitch).

3. 48m (15) Step left and climb sharp corner to overhang on left. Climb righthand side of overhang to second overhang. Climb straight up past guano to large ledge.

4. 32m (15) Up thin crack to join left end of Syrinx's traverse. Finish up 'Syrinx'.

Some funky moves on the first pitch but it deteriorates after that.

Starts at a steepening slabby seam about 10 metres right of 'Broken Song'. There's a faint initial S chipped in the rock on the left side of the seam, a vegetated seam 2 metres further right and then the brushed streak of "Shaggy's Route" another 2 metres to the right.

The belay at the end of the second pitch can have an active beehive. Noddy almost died after being attacked by bees at this point.

1. 15m (17) Climb the clean orange seam which is nicely technical and continue up an easy blocky arete to a ledge and belay off a huge block.

2. 27m (12) Obvious narrow chimney then up easily to belay near small cave.

3. 30m (-) Straight up to big ledge right of The Belvedere. This pitch is mostly part of 'The Wobble'.

Climb up anywhere along the western face, it's all about the same grade.

Straight up the bulging arete right side of right wall trending left to exit via central groove, stand start from the crimp steps.

Beautiful incident cracks to high finish. Descent same way or over back.

Trickier than it looks (take some big gear for the start).

Start: The wide crack at the left end of the east face.

Amble up the crappy rock, finishing up the arête overhanging the gully to the L.

Start: At foot of L end of buttress at the top of Pan Grove - about 15m R of 'Rat on Roller Skates' (on Tiger Wall).

Start as for 'Boomer' and head into the gulch. Trash up this to the top.

Start: About 10m R of the grotto is a deep chimney/gully.

An ancient route with complicated FA details... if you want the full story then look in Noddy's guide. Chris and Sue Baxter climbed the wide crack option on pitch 1 on 8/5/1983.

Start: Below the gaping chimney/gully starting halfway up the cliff.

1. 24m (15) Up to the overlap (peg), where hard moves past this on the left leads to chimney/crack. Best option is to take the wide crack on the right past a bulge, or continue up chimney to ledge on right.

2. 18m (15) Continue up the steep crack (on the L) to ledge. Belay here, then scramble up and L to get off.

Start: Original description says: "half-way up Boomer's 1st pitch, direct variant leaves gully for the wide crack on R wall." hmmm...

1. 25m (15) This probably means: climb Boomer's first pitch.

2. 18m (14) And then finish up 'Squeaker'.

Climb to ledge from the R, then into thin crack to the R. Up and then back L.

Start: On bushy ledge 3m up, at R end of crag.

Climb straight up to the left side of the bulge immediately right of Stretching the Point. A runner in that climb protects a blind step right around the bulge. Up the ramp a little then up to the headwall. Up the headwall, starting on the right side then moving left into the centre. Step around left to the Pointy End bolts. Originally finished up right of the headwall before cleaning.

Another nice little exercise. Climb the clean white slab (tiny RPs and cams) about 3m right of Tipping Point and continue up the steep orange nose. Finish up and left to the Zabriskie bolts.

The lovely water-streak 5 metres right of 'Happy Balance' has a hard, poorly protected start.

A good way to finish Rock Soff Follow the cracks to theer end then head through the bulge where Blow by Blow head through it

Up white streak to short crack in face. Up clean rock and over wee roof.

Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Rock Soff' in middle of white streak.

Start beneath the low "col" on the L side of the Pinnacle. Climb straight up the burgundy water streak.

Slapstick. Straight up the rap route on the back of the Death Row Pinnacle.

A good alternative finish to "Lamplighter". It originally had it's own second pitch, diverging left from "Lamplighter" after 8 metres, but it was fairly worthless.

Start: Start at the second belay of "Lamplighter".

Quite a nice, subtle climb. Start up the flake on the left wall of the chimney-gully right of I Can't Breathe for 3 metres then go diagonally left to finish up I Can't Breathe