Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lower Blue Mountains Mulgoa lookout Dopest | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Rawhide | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Magnum Dopest
In the mini cave from the back ledge head out the roof via pinch and blobby bulge Mega Classic FA: Chris, May 2021 | 3m | |||
Lower Blue Mountains The Surgery | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Problem Solved
Awesome new 20 move problem with a dynamic crux at the start and solid rock nearly the whole way. Starts on the big pocket of Say Ahhhhhhh, a couple of easy start moves set you up for a big move out left from a bad off angle right before joining Hopes In Slopes.. FFA: Ben Jenga, 13 Dec 2015 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Sign Of The Times.
Jug the Teflon start then long reach and hard match to move into Mosquito clamps start jug and continue. Only hard for 3 moves really but rad the whole way. FFA: Ben Jenga, 9 Aug 2017 | 4m | |||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | |||||
28 | ★★★ Marxism
1
23/24
25m
2
24
25m
3
28
12m
Wonderful wall climbing. First pitch is a good single pitch sport route with lower-off at grade 23/24. Link into the 2nd pitch for an epic 50m 24 - and if you are really keen continue up the final crimpy finale at 28 for the mega pitch to the top. A couple of long draws and a single length sling are useful for the link-ups. Pitch 2 and 3 were first climbed before pitch 1 - with a belay on the small ledge. If you plan to belay from the ground and link into pitch 2 you will want a 70m rope minimum (and still need a rethread). Marxism is the 2nd line of rings left of Ben Trovato's p1 crack.
Set: Mark Baker (pitch 2 & 3) FA: Phil Sage (pitch 2 & 3 in one big pitch), 2002 FA: Neil Monteith (P1 via tree start), 2010 FA: Neil Monteith (via Vespasian Wall start), 2023 | 62m, 3, 22 | |||
28 | ★★ Fashionista
Starts as for Marxism (pitch 2), then trends a bit left! Weaves around quite a bit, eventually finishing at DRB 6m below the top. FA: Steve Grkovic | 30m, 18 | |||
28 | ★★ The Old Sleepy Horse
The direct finish to The Young Violent Pony past at least three more bolts and some very thin moves. Finishes on small ledge and lower-off. Set: Neil Monteith, 2009 FA: Steve Grokovic, 2014 | 26m | |||
28 | ★★★ Zoncolan
Go up Reigning Steel for 4 bolts then left up the sustained crimpy wall. Could be 27 according to Steve. FA: Steve Grkovic, 2014 | 25m | |||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Dogface Gorgo Wall | |||||
28 | ★★ Gargantuan
Similar to 'Gorgon' in grade and nature. Again most of the climbing is free. Start: 'Trident' cracks on left wall of 'Leviathan' corner FA: J Ewbank & A Campbell, 1967 | 110m | |||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Mr Wall | |||||
28 | ★★★ Super Goo
The pumper extension to Mr Magoo through the roof, the holds are good but the pump is mega. FA: Justin Clark, 1999 | 22m | |||
28 | ★★ Mr Puniverse
Bypasses the top crux of Mr Universe by traversing right into Mr Carpet Burn and then climbs back across the jugs at the top of MCB to the chains of MU. Some have climbed this thinking they were doing MU but in fact missed the crux of MU. Still a fun outing nonetheless. Set: Ben Cossey Kim Carrigan | 18m | |||
28 | ★★★ Hairline 2000
The first climb at DF, and widely considered to be one of the absolute best routes at any grade in the whole Blue Mountains. Giles sure knows how to pick them. FA: Giles Bradbury, 1994 | 18m | |||
28 | ★★★ Fresh Goats Milk
A 2m variant which usefully avoids some crumbled sandy holds on the original. Most people do Hairline 2000 this way. FA: Ben Cossey | 18m | |||
28 | ★★★ To Infinity and Beyond
Classic jugging! Sustained climbing following a great line on great rock for 40 meters! Start: As for SKOB but keep traversing far right and up to a massive horn. Continue right for one bolt then make your way up through 3 rooflets, taking the right line of bolts. Traverse right under the final roof and finish topped out above Saturation Point. FA: Andy Richardson, 2009 | 40m | |||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Frog Buttress | |||||
28 | No Macnkat
FA: G. Miller, 2000 | 15m | |||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Farside Main Wall | |||||
28 | ★★ Strong Movements
You can get a good idea of the crux from the ground, hard moves past the first 4 draws then the great orange wall above. A hold has snapped at 3rd last bolt but there's still a good sequence. FFA: Steve Grkovic | 22m, 10 | |||
28 | ★★★ Bad Dog, Bad Dog, No Biscuit
Up the boulder seam through a mini roof then classic and sustained steep wall climbing to a tricky finale. FFA: Steve Grkovic | 22m, 9 | |||
28 | ★★ Snout Hog (linkup)
Link-up of the first half of Snout Counter and the top half of God's Gift to Wart Hogs at a moderate grade. Long pumper on mostly big holds with 3 little boulder problems. FFA: Steve Grkovic | 24m, 9 | |||
28 | ★★★ God's Gift to Wart Hogs
Great consumer climbing with plenty of good jugs and some thin, long pulls. The bolting is a bit spicy but safe. FFA: Steve Grkovic | 24m, 9 | |||
28 | ★★ Bumbalong Road
A great resistance route with nothing too hard, the most popular 28 at Farside. A dynamic start gets you established on route, where the slow burn continues right up until the anchors. FFA: Steve Grkovic | 25m, 14 | |||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Farside Outskirts | |||||
28 | ★★ Deflatable Daisy Extension
Only really 3 bolts above the first half but adds a fair amount of pump. Continue up and left from the first set of anchors. Mega. FA: Steve Grkovic | 33m | |||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Boganville Fever Face | |||||
28 | ★★ Auto Bling Century
This climb is a proper bang for your buck route. It may look short but it packs in a lot of climbing and styles that is never to hard but on till the oddly place anchors. Horizontal crux down low then big moves between positive holds, with a sneaky finish.. Soft at the grade but still not an easy tick. FFA: Steve Grkovic | 18m, 9 | |||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau The Pit Sector 'Pit Fighter' | |||||
28 | ★★★ Pit Fighter
The steep crack, hard though well protected. A Blue Mountains gem. Take double cams from 0.4 Camalot (yellow Alien) to 3 Camalot as well as single set of nuts. Double ring lower-off FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2013 | 30m | |||
28 | ★★★ Sentinel
7m left of Point Insertion, starting at small cairn. Long move into quality climbing and great rest. The flake feature above the rest requires devious beta followed by some pumpy crimping. The demise of the start tree has added an extra move at the same grade. FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2013 | 25m | |||
28 | ★★ Lapland
An awesome link-up featuring the easier halves of two pit 30's. Start up Circling Vultures for the mega dyno then after a brief rest step left into the top headwall crux of North by Northwest. The inverse linkup, connecting the brutal crux of North by Northwest into the less brutal crux of Circling Vultures, is an open project dubbed "Mt Druitt" (a "western circle" reference). FFA: brecon Set: Scott Boladeras | 25m | |||
28 | ★★ Pit Fit (linkup)
A great pit-link of Ebola Noodles to the big undercling flake then pump right into a hard clip on North By Northwest and continue up this into a crimpy headwall. | 30m | |||
28 | ★★★ Sword Of Damocles
Third route in from the left side of the wall. The massive namesake dead tree hanging off the top of the crag is no more. Classy power-endurance route, popular with the pundits. Was a debated 27/28 for a while but many recent repeats the 28 grade has been settled. Ben FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2013 | 25m | |||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau The Pit Sector 'Sunny Side' | |||||
28 | ★★ Pit Viper
Links Force Cannon into Farkenright. Climb all of the hard bit of FC to the horizontal break just before the ledge. Now bust directly right via a tricky boulder, then across the break to the hourglass hold, continuing R as per Farkenright. Lots of roof climbing! FFA: Lee Cujes, 10 Aug 2018 | 25m | |||
28 | ★★★ Pit Boss
Start 5m right of Magnitude. Big roof. Big holds. Big moves. Harder than it should be. Set: Emil Mandyczewsky, Feb 2018 FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 26 May 2018 | 20m | |||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Highlander | |||||
28 | ★★ The Macleod
Starting on far left of wall just right of handover rope. Boulder up under roof, reach through to big jug on arete. Bouldery sequence to ledge. Traverse left and up as it steepens into the technical crux. If that goes well, make your way up and left, navigating around the huge flake feature and final big move to top out. 10 bolts to lower off. Set: Lee Cujes, 2016 FFA: Lee Cujes & Emil Mandyczewsky, 3 Nov 2016 | 20m, 10 | |||
28 | ★★ Men Will Fear You | 17m, 9 | |||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander | |||||
28 | ★★ Gumption
3m left of Waylander, start at Gritstone slab/layback. Recommend to stick-clip first bolt. Bouldery crux at first roof (permadraw) and then a further 28m of fine, pumpy and varied climbing. FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Dec 2016 | 38m | |||
28 | ★★ Water Hazard
Novel tree start down and left of Hard Reset. Cruxy face leads to base of headwall and good rest. Upper section is engaging and continuous on superb rock. FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Jan 2018 | 36m | |||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Elphinstone Main Wall | |||||
28 | ★★ Pollux and the Pussycat
Start off the large cairn and head straight up the left side of the arete and wall above to some long moves. Has a couple of runouts but on quite easy moves. From the 2nd bolt to the top crux bolt is good 24-25 mileage climbing, if using the easier sequences through half-height. FFA: Chris Coppard, 2012 | 25m | |||
28 | ★★ Palomi
Short version of Palomino, to the roof then step R to Ristretto anchor. Not significant by Elph standards but would be the best route at many Mtns crags. | 20m | |||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Elphinstone Dumbo Love Sector | |||||
28 | ★★ One Inch Punch
Shared start with The Last Ninja. Head up to desperate boulder problem and right through intimidating roof flake. FA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2013 | 25m, 10 | |||
28 | ★★ Fists Of Fury
Amazing line with a tough little beta crux. FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012 | 25m | |||
28 | ★ Chao Wa Punch Kick
Bouldery start to gain the saw tooth feature at 10m, and then straight up the never ending wall. FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012 | 35m | |||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau The Egg | |||||
28 | ★★ Five Point Exploding Heart
Hard and sustained edges from half height, is considered solid for the grade now with the direct finish. FA: L.Cossey | 20m | |||
28 | ★★ The Floating Line (homage to an angel)
The climbing and the rock is awesome, a grade harder after every move! . Hard for 28 but who wants a soft tick? Set: Chris Coghill FA: T.Wolf, 2007 | 22m, 7 | |||
Katoomba Area Little Italy The Den | |||||
28 | ★★★ Sim Diddy
On right hand edge of cave, 3 metres left of MacDaddy. Awesome steep bouldery climbing with a great mix of holds. A few good rests split the climbing but you really have to hang on tight to the top. FFA: Simon Wilson | 15m | |||
28 | ★ Activation
Activate Baby. The first route you come to when arriving at the crag (hint: look straight up). Bolted ground up on lead by Macca and Vinnie. Directly above where the track hits the crag. 2 meters right of One on One Up obvious slab to the overhanging corner. Left to arete, up and right to top, then jump. Set: Macca & Vinnie FFA: Zac Vertrees, 2006 | 15m | |||
Katoomba Area Little Italy Sunnyside | |||||
28 | ★★★ Seamstress
First route on the left end when facing the cliff Climb up log (a long way) then left to the jug near the first ring - no higher. FFA: Dave Gliddon, 2005 | 25m | |||
Medlow Bath The Underworld | |||||
28 | ★ Bolt to the Brain
A bouldery little route in a small amphitheatre up from the main crag. FA: Matt Burnett, 17 Sep 2017 | 10m | |||
Medlow Bath DG's | |||||
28 | ★★★ Voyage to Voltaren
The route right of Angiotension. Good steep sustained climbing with a dynamic finish. New crux beta = new grade. Gifted to Gary from HK. Set: Eww FFA: 25 Feb 2023 | 16m | |||
28 | ★★★ Mans Physical World
Intense and athletic blast through much steepness. Pronounced crux at second bolt took many shots before hold was dry and heel stayed put. Consider bringing a small blowtorch if its not windy. Stick clip first two ubolts in roof. A small belay bolt keeps rope out of the way also. FFA: Hurok Daparti | 16m, 7 | |||
Medlow Bath Carne Wall The Point | |||||
28 | Chilli Con Carne
FA: Dave Gliddon | 2 | |||
Blackheath Area Ukulore Valley Riverbed | |||||
V7 | Crack Like Candy
Starts to the right of FOHS on the big juggy shelf and heads out the roof via a long move to join FOHS for the top FA: Ben Cossey, 2013 | ||||
V7 | Black Scabs Away
FA: Ben Cössey | ||||
Blackheath Area Ukulore Valley The Jungfrau | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Up To The Onions
Starts as for BOB and SIAST but sticks to the right arete and tops out via cool sculpted holds FA: Ben Cössey | ||||
Blackheath Area Ukulore Valley Donkey Mountain | |||||
V7 | ★★ Tippy-Toe Freight Train
Traverse flake-thing, quite techy on pockets and gastons. FA: Ben Cossey, 1 Jul 2020 | 3m | |||
Blackheath Area Ukulore Valley The Ice-Vovo Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Ekers Tears Sit
Low sit-start half under roof and an edge on the face. Thuggy move leads to the start of the stand. Top out's the same | ||||
Blackheath Area Ukulore Valley Upper Upper Jungfrau | |||||
V7 | Unknown v7
Same starting hold and finish hold as the five but you head left and punch the lip on small crimps. In the small cave on the left of the amphitheatre | 4m | |||
Blackheath Area Ukulore Valley Haunted Area | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Whistle-Whistle Crack
High splitter crack that you cannot miss. Sit-Starts low in pod and climbs up to high jugs above. Pretty good landing on fluffy dust and built-up sticks. To say the name correctly, reverse a "wolf-whistle" in F#m. Think - "how would you answer a wolf-whistle" OR, more specifically, "how you'd decline the frisky advances of someone off-putting (but not threatening) using a wolf-whistle to indicate they're desirousness of you". For further information phone 1800-whistle-whiistle FA: Elliot Vercoe | ||||
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff | |||||
28 | ★★ EIEIO
Just squeezed in but still popular for the grade. Good, funky Logan Brae climbing with some holds that seep. Some filling down the bottom, no drilling. FA: M.Law, 1997 | 18m | |||
28 | ★★ Big Hit with the Kids
Shared start with HTTBC then after the 5th bolt bam out right and up. FA: A.Richardson, 2002 | 15m | |||
Blackheath Area Tank Top HillTop | |||||
28 | ★★★ State Of The Art
varied thin face climbing. Blunt arete feature in the middle of the wall. FA: Josh Mackenzie & Sarah Williams, 2020 | 30m | |||
Blackheath Area Big Top | |||||
24 - 28 | ★★ Funnel to Oblivion
The route is all too obvious - a bottomless chimney hanging over your head like gaping dinosaur jaws. A unique experience, not soon forgotten. FA: S.Grkovic, 1999 | 30m | |||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Equaliser Wall | |||||
28 | ★★★ Equaliser
Was once the hardest route at the crag, and was originally graded 31! Fairly quickly downgraded to a solid 28, but since then some holds have crumbled/gone, making the route more sustained, and better! Maybe still 'just' a solid 28, or maybe 29, but whatever the grade, its a bloody ripper power endurance testpiece so just get on it! Start on the right hand side of the huge scoop near the left hand end of the railing. Please stick clip and batman - do NOT trample the vegetation. The anchor has 2 clip-n-go captive biners. These are the dodgy cast style and need to be replaced ASAP, probably by hacksawing them off. They shouldn't be trusted in the meantime. FA: G. Fieg, 1995 | 20m, 6 | |||
28 | De-Equaliser
After the first 2 bolts of 'Demoraliser' there is a bolt to the left which lets you link into 'Equaliser' via some thin 26ish moves. This eliminates the batman, but presents a nasty pendulum fall potential if you blow it getting to the 2nd bolt of Equaliser, and also creates rope drag once you're further up Equaliser, so its not much of an improvement over the batman. | ||||
28 | La Forche Be With You
Links the first 4 bolts of 'Equaliser' into the finish of 'Pooferator', avoiding both cruxes. What a train station in Paris has got to do with this route is anyone's guess. FA: S. Grkovic, 2002 | 18m | |||
28 | ★★ Demoraliser
Start 2m R of 'Equaliser'. Stick clip advisable because the first holds aren't positive and are usually wet, even if they don't look it. Wobble up onto the fence, and delicately step onto face. Up the steepening wall with each move getting a bit harder than the previous one... Lower off the huge bizarre single ringbolt with a double-coiled 6-inch eye. FA: J.Clark, 2001 | 15m | |||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grand Junction Wall | |||||
28 | ★★ The Eviscerator
Excellent. Very thin and technical up the orange wall to a nip in the tail. Save it for a cool day. Straight up off the log. FA: Megan Turnbull, 2001 | 30m | |||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Sandwiches Wall | |||||
28 X | Argentine Deadline
Just right of POPV, out roof on really great rock. Boulder and toe hook, slap and lob up to anchors of POPV. Coach bolts - they are total death. FA: B.Cossey, 2001 | 10m | |||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Junket Pumper Area | |||||
28 R | Nightmare Merchant
Ben says it is hyperclassic. One look will make you think otherwise. The worst route in the area? The rock in the top half is terrible. Start about 60m right of the 'Junket Pumper' terrace. Walk along the path - not through the bush. FA: B.Cossey, 2002 | 7m | |||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Main Wall | |||||
28 | ★★ Bernie Loves Tofu
As for Apraxia, almost to its 4th bolt (don't go right at the 3rd bolt, that's Bernie Loves Sausages). Don't clip Apraxia's 4th bolt, instead swing 2-3m R into a cool boulder problem. Has a one-bolt extension through the bulge to a higher anchor, presumably an open project. FA: I.Geatches, 2001 | 18m, 4 | |||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Rough Trade Wall | |||||
28 | ★★★ Rough Trade
Classic test piece. Giles never really believed he could climb so hard. Start about 50m to the right after the waterfall. Still has some fragile rock; best to stick clip 1st bolt. Can be done only on the bolts, but a few cams are prudent (#1, 0.5/0.3, 3), as are rollers and extenders. 60m rope minimum. FA: G.Bradbury, 1987 FFA: lee cossey, 2004 | 30m, 7 | |||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Sail Away Wall | |||||
28 | ★★★ My Pheramone
The Wipe Out extension. A very impressive line through the biggest part of the huge roof above Wipe Out, 40m above the ground. Take a collection of long slings and roller biners. Back-jump to clean or top out, untie and leave your draws there! Considered 29 if linked from the ground. FA: Lloyd Wishart | 45m | |||
28 | ★★ Free Willy
If 'Sail Away' is a cruise then do the 10m extension to the top of the cliff past 4 or 5 more clips. Step R at SA's final bolt to clip the first bolt on the extension and up the steepening face. Despite appearances from below, this extension only climbs the face above SA, it doesn't touch the big roof. FA: N.Campbell, 2006 | 35m | |||
28 | ★★★ Returnity
Start 0.5m R of B. Runout bottom half (3 bolts where Black Heathen has 6!), excellent top half. FA: M.Law, 2002 | 25m | |||
28 | ★★ Cockatoo Country
Bolted over 10 years ago by Rowan, it lay asleep for many years waiting for a keen Muppet to come along and wake it up!! If you're into journeys to other dimensions then this has got your name written all over it. There's a lot of awesome and absorbing climbing. A 80m rope will just only just get you back down if you jump off the top. Or you can walk off the back to the car. The original start to the right will add a few grades and test your reach! Add a No.1 BD cam at the end if you want. Set: rowan druce FFA: stephan meng, Apr 2020 | 45m, 13 | |||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Self Portrait Wall | |||||
28 | Self Portrait with Pipe and Bandaged Ear
Blasts straight up the awesome wall, albeit a bit squeezily between Vanity Case and Self Portrait, then continues up the dirty vertical headwall a long way to the top. Treat the grade with suspicion; the prolific cobwebs don't suggest a popular soft tick. Start as for Vanity Case for 4 bolts to the ledge, then the middle line off the ledge. FA: Ben Cossey, 2004 | 45m | |||
28 | ★★★ Vanity Case
One of the classic Mountain hardies. A good route on good rock. Start on the high ledge about 20m right of Chook Raffle. Access by climbing up near the creek. 4 bolts to ledge then the lefthand line. FA: Giles Bradbury, 1986 | 30m | |||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass The Birdcage Area | |||||
28 | ★ Twisted Reality
10m left of the Birdcage. First pitch can be used to access the ledge above.
FA: R.Bombala & V.Day, 2007 | 55m, 2 | |||
Blackheath Area Gateway, Doomsday & Fort Rock Gateway | |||||
28 | ★★ Gateway
Beware the evil eyes are apon you. The frost covered ground will show you the path, take gentle steps. The gorgeous rock will hold your hand your mind concerned only with the foot you must land. FA: B.Cossey, 2003 | 10m | |||
28 | ★★ Super Sprinkle Cake
Cool jumpers and wooly lockin'.strip clubs the world over will sing your praise. FA: G.Miller, 2004 | 18m | |||
28 | The Professional
Traverse the lip to finish at 'Middle Earth' anchors. Start: Starts up 'The Amateur'. | 15m | |||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Rock Hudson | |||||
28 | ★★ Low Earth Orbit
Access as if you were walking to Jimmy Cliff, but when you drop into the (second) creek and come up the other side, don't go R along the path, instead go straight up to a smooth rock pillar/shelf under the roof. Stickclip high first bolt, then truck left along the rail to set up for a knee-related crux on Nowra-like stone. Then take it to the top. A roller on the belay bolt helps with boinking. FFA: Lee Cujes, 5 Sep 2020 | 17m, 12 | |||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Oliver Stone | |||||
28 | ★★ Prince Of Darkness
Start a couple of metres L of AATM. Steep wall climbing past the "moonboard crux", then the mega popcorn ceiling. A few sandy holds can be avoided in the last couple of easy metres to the anchor, no biggie. Recent comments suggest it might be harder than 28, opinions welcome. FA: Lee Cujes, 24 May 2020 | 18m | |||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone | |||||
28 | ★★ Broken Flowers
5m L of Basic Instinct. A boulder route with tricky sections split by ledge rests. Cool iron-cross boulder moving L under roof then up to ledge. Extremely steep elevator doors scoop section to more moderate headwall finish. FFA: Lee Cujes, 28 Jun 2019 | 25m | |||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Browntown | |||||
28 | ★★ You Can Float
FA: I.Geatches, 2002 | 25m | |||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Upper Wall | |||||
28 | ★ mailorder meercat
Norry admittedly has 'no idea' what grade it is...i suspect its got a very hard crux. Straight up Finishing at BIB anchor. FA: Mathew Norgrove, 2012 | 15m | |||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Waterfall Wall | |||||
28 | ★★ Chupa Pollo Pendejo
Shares the first 2 bolts with Luft. Second half is some of the best rock in the mountains! Doesn't look very promising from the ground, but it's amazing climbing .... FFA: stephan meng, 26 Apr 2019 | 35m, 12 | |||
28 | ★★ Intergalactic MoOnwalker
Climb up IHST to the last bolt, then continue slightly right all the way up to the anchor of Soak up the Atmosphere. A 65m rope only just gets you to the ground. FFA: stephan meng, 22 Feb 2019 | 38m, 14 | |||
Blackheath Area Atlantis | |||||
28 | ★★ She Male
Steepness Plus. As for He Man but straight out through the roof. Great climbing through very steep terrain. FA: S.Grkovic, 1999 | 15m | |||
Blackheath Area Perry's Lookdown | |||||
26 - 28 | ★★★ Blind to Context
Incredible rock, incredible climbing and incredible position. Take plenty of draws (18ish), especially for pitch 2. Generously bolted (I think). Interested to hear what people think .
FA: Tom O'Halloran, 26 Sep 2022 | 170m, 6, 80 | |||
28 | ★★★ Upstaged
Climbs the right side arete and face of the same proud buttress as Regular Route. Access by abseiling down A Date with Density. Starts 2m left of A Date with Density.
FA: lee cossey, 2015 | 230m, 7 | |||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | |||||
28 | Old Stealthbelly
Start as for Thin Time. The right hand route. FA: G.Child & G.Bradbury, 1990 | 35m | |||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Main Wall (Ferris Cave) | |||||
28 | ★★ Onions (Extended Dance Mix) Digitally Remastered 2017 Edition
Start 3m L of Onions. Boulder your way up to the first link bolt of Aneurysm then straight up into Onions. Hopefully frees the Onions start up a bit. FA: Stuart Simons, 30 Sep 2017 | ||||
28 | ★★ Onions (Extended Dance Mix)
This ones for those who like to get full value from their climbing experience. Having reached the anchors of Onions keep chugging, move right and up and finish at anchors now shared with Don't Believe the Tripe. Originally 27. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1992 | 25m | |||
28 | ★★ Green Eggs and Ham
Traverse. Onions start, then head R as for Tripe, then traverse the lip all the way to the right. Back jump to clean. FA: M.Baker, 1992 | 22m | |||
Mount Victoria Area XXXX | |||||
V7 | ★★ X Marks The Spot
Surely been done, but seems obvious and is a good bit of climbing, even as a bit of an eliminate. Sit start in the low slot to the right of Garths Arete. Move right hand to small lip slot, left hand up to a glued edge. Move to ironband rail and make a big thwomp up to a small edge before moving right to a tricky gaston and up to finish the 4. Avoiding the left arete jugs the whole time. | ||||
V7 | ★★ Delete
| ||||
Mount Victoria Area Mitchells Ridge Eastern Block | |||||
28 R | Cirque de Soleil
Headpointing comes to the mountains. First ascent was done using toprope rehearsal in order to clean and find the line. A ground-up ascent is possible just committing. Start on arete at base off steep gully and at the beginning of the left leading diagonal break. FA: Lee Cossey, 2004 | 30m | |||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Mt York Bouldering Wolf Cave | |||||
V7 | ★★ Block Town Pinch
| 4m | |||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Mt York Bouldering Fargoid Boulders | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Where Wolf
Stand start on jug rail under rooflet and dyno up to juggy sloper around lip. Landing isn't as bad as it looks FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 7 Nov 2022 | 3m | |||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Adults Only Cave | |||||
28 | ★★★ The Way of All Flesh
Boulder problem to pumpfest. Start freed by Mark Baker. FFA: Mark Baker, 1992 FA: S.Butler, 1992 | 25m | |||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Goats Meat Cave | |||||
28 | ★ Half the Fun
Up small wall,Boulder through horizontal roof and into orange corner via arette jug. Could be soft. Could be sandbag....depending on if your a boulderer!? FFA: Eww, 1 Jan 2016 | 13m, 10 | |||
Mount Victoria Area Zap Crag Upper Zap | |||||
28 | ★★ Guilty as Charged
Same start as 'Charged' but continue straight on the face instead of going R. FA: M.Forestier, 2007 | 18m | |||
28 | ★★★ Pulse
The end of another long affair. Great moves, technical with a dynamic finish. Generally considered easy for the grade, but then a hold snapped in 2011. Now its more solid, and a bugger to get a draw onto the 5th bolt. Start: Start under the short vague arete 1m left of the Stolen corner. FA: W.Payten, 2006 | 20m, 7 |