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The Horn

Access: Track access

This area has been heavily fire affected. Parks and local climbers have marked the original track into the base of the Horn (as per the guide book) with pink tape. Please stick to the track and DO NOT create new tracks. Under the current climate, we need to maintain a solid relationship with Traditional Owners of the land and Parks Victoria.

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Created 3 years ago

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Description

The Horn is the highest granite peak on the Buffalo Plataeu at 1723m. Either access climbs by reaching summit via tourist path then rapping down highest climb peroxide blonde. Alternatively about half way up path at hairpin bend head straight ahead via climbers track to reach base of Horn.

Approach

Either access climbs by reaching summit via tourist path then rapping down highest climb peroxide blonde. Alternatively about half way up path at hairpin bend head straight ahead via climbers track to reach base of Horn.

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Smear your way up past 3 FH to the top. Use Horn on back of large boulder for protection. Can scramble off back and to right side gully to descend

Brilliant long consistent gd 17 slab cimb. Can be done as 1 pitch 45m or slip into two pitches. Start at base of arete 4m left of Dick Selector crack. A thin balancy crux to reach first bolt. Continue past 6PH to belay ledge at 25m (exit is possible here by stepping right to dick selector rap chain. To continue climb up chockstone and 20m up arete past 3PH, (additional nuts and cam can protect but not essential. Rap chain at top. Descent can be done in two pitches.

Up crack behind 4 stacked blocks that make up Crowlands. First 5m starts flared and difficult to protect but slabby. Becomes steeper and crack narrows to provide plenty of natural large pro. Near top two crack merge forcing climb out onto arete with R jamming. Rap chain at top 25 m to ground.

Long 22m arete climb consists of 4 granite blocks stacked. Start 2m R of Dick Selector Crack. First block smooth slab, poss cam in top horizontal crack. Getting onto second block cruxy with 1PH protection. Third block fun and crimpy with 2PH. Forth and final block smooth and slippery crux with 2PH. Top out with rap chain to bottom.

Starts same crack as for Selwyn Slag Heap but vere right at long diagonal crack and continue to top

The original described short route to get on top of crowlands wall. Start at diagonal crack same as Swerv'n Mervin but continue left to top and do not take right diagonal crack. Descend off Crowlands rap chain.

Last arete top of steep gully between Swerv'n Mervin and Yeah Boys. Up easy arete past 3 BR using left wall to bridge if needed. Arete levels off to ledge then large cam to protect final steep 4m to top. Trad placements for belay. Exit left down to Dick Selector rap chain.

Large independent block L of Yeah Boys. Great first lead for a beginner. Step up onto nose and continue up over eye and along forehead crack. Sling and cam for belay. Easy exit off back of block

Starts one metre left of The Pintle start. Up the arete, avoiding the crack on the right, to the large belay ledge below The Pintle Left Hand Variant.

FA: Tim Wallis, 2011

Start halfway up the easy ramp of the original second pitch of 'The Pintle'. Best approached by abseil. Up past 2 flakes and 2 bolts and some small gear, tending right at the top.

FA: James McIntosh, Mike Wust & Jeremy Boreham, 1992

At the top of 'The Pintle Left Hand Varient', facing the lookout head left past the cave and right. In front of you there should be a perfectly shaped crack about 3m in height, this is the start of 'Whoops'. Head up over the boulders until the large ledge (can be belayed from to prevent rope drag. Head straight up the corner through the offwidth crack (crux) to the summit.

FA: Josh Jordan & Louie Dalzell, 26 Oct 2018

Start at the belay ledge at the top and left of Pintle Pitch one. Layback crux at the start and some spicy slab climbing with fiddly pro. Single bolt with rappel ring at belay (can be backed up with cams). Offset nuts and smallish cams are handy. Rap down R to final pitch of Pintle, or L and through very tight squeeze.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Collins & Kieran Loughran, 1982

Up the crack 1m to the right of The Pintle's more vegetated crack, crux at bulge about half way up. Great trad climb with load of placements. Belay on ledge in front of small cave. Can exit out 4m R to bottom of Big Fun or continue up Pintle LHV.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Gabrielle Pellisser & R Hitchins, 1978

From Pintle Start looking back 10m toward the Hump is a large flat rock that steepens into the bushes below. Start in the bushes R side of flake. Easy beginners lead

Abseil in two pitches down from the lookout or walk in around the base.

  1. 20m (14) From the grass, up the left crack to belay below the overhang.

  2. 26m (14) Another crux. Up the left side through the wide crack.

  3. 24m (14) Up the corner crack to the summit.

FA:

FFA: John Taylor, Mike Carmody & Glenn Casey - Summer, 1973

The arete R of (and a tad harder than) Glitterati.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson (Jan '98)

The centre of the block right of the Hoi Polloi arete (R of and down a little from the summit block and above the first pitch of Buttocks). Up past 4BRs.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Wust ('83)

One of 3 routes that finishes at the summit therefore can rap in off cams at the top of the route. Do not rap from the tourist handrail. Alternatively, access bottom via Buttocks' or 'Change of Heart'. Obvious well worn arete ends as tourist steps take a R turn 6m before summit. A typical Horn slabby arete with bolts. First pitch of 'Buttocks' makes a pleasant start.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Matidla Bardella, 1985

Starts 5m L of final pitch of Mood for a Day. Bridge between slabby wall and block that looks like a pigs head. Pull up onto ear then step across into corner crack halfway up Pintle exit pitch. Continue as for Pintle to summit. Is the easy way off if caught in rain

Best started at snowgum level up most obvious straight line over boulders to rounded crack on main wall that looks like a bum crack. At top of crack traverse L to finish at belay bottom of Hoi Poloi arete.

Between Mood for a day Crack and Buttocks Crack is an overlap. Start below L side of overlap up past 1 BR and diagonally R up overlap to finish below Hoi Poloi arete

The randomly bolted arete on the R side of the flared crack Mood for a day.

FA: Mark Colyvan (summer '91/'92)

Long dreadful straight flaring crack that starts R of songlines and finishes L of Hoi Poloi

The undercut pitted face between the two flared cracks Nathaniel- Mood for a Day. Belay from under roof and make way up start of Mood to clip FH above roof. Carefully step over on to face and up past 2 FH to belay on block below pigs snout. Rap back down off pig snout chain.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Alan Hope ('94)

Straight long flared crack R of Big Fun

The long face between the shallow arete of big Fun and flared crack of Nathaniel. 6 bolts plus natural gear.

FA: Ian Anger ('89)

Either access via Extra Fun or walk 5m R of Extra Fun up to grassy area scramble L up over 2 levels of granite boulders, to arrive at main slab wall. Cam in horizontal crack at start then past 2 BR and step R across chasm. (The very large chockstone shifted in 2022, changing FA and nature of protecting the move across the chasm.) Once across Up shallow arete past 3 BR and step left onto proper arete to complete past 2 BR. Need large nuts/ smaller cams to establish belay in crack beneath top block. Rap chains off 'pigs snout' or can continue up Pintle, Peroxide, or Hoi Poloi

FA: Greg Prichard & Ian Anger (Jan '92)

Start at small cave 5m R of Pintle start. Up slab using R crack and bridging on opposing R wall. Make way past 2 BR onto some small ledges and continue 10m with some trad placements. Either belay base of Big Fun or continue on 2nd pitch Big Fun

FA: Roo Davis, 2006

A classic must try well protected sports climb. The route follows the sharp square L arete on the north facing wall of the tourist lookout. Starts on ledge top of big fun/ second pitch pintle. Up arete past 5PH to belay at 2PH found just below handrail. Can access by rapping down from lookout, or climbing up from lower pitches. (beware, Parks do not want climbers belaying off the top handrail)

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Peter Lindorff, Jeremy Boreham & Andrew Collins (Dec '82)

FA: N Coward & P Watling

The climbers track to the base of the Horn passes over a grassy snowgum rise. From this rise look toward the Horn in front of you is a short dimpley slab with 2 vertical cracks about 1m apart. Up either crack and walk off top and to the L for easy down return

FA: Paul Martin & Rick Webb

From top of Pintle LHV downclimb ramp on left and across boulders toward top of Crowlands wall. On block above Giggle and Hoot lower 6m off a Fixed ring. Once on top of Crowlands wall make way along wide shelf to Rap Chain above Dick Selector. Rap 25m to ground. This is the simplest and most direct way to return to beginning Pintle climb

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Murray and Kevin Lindorff

Date: 2006

"The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts.

The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts. This 234 page guide is the most comprehensive guide for Mt Buffalo and even though being the 5th edition released in 2006, is the latest version."

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 29 May
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