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description
Start at the belay ledge at the top and left of Pintle Pitch one. Layback crux at the start and some spicy slab climbing with fiddly pro. Single bolt with rappel ring at belay (can be backed up with cams). Offset nuts and smallish cams are handy. Rap down R to final pitch of Pintle, or L and through very tight squeeze.
Route history
| Dec 1982 | First ascent: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Collins & Kieran Loughran |
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Warnings
| 18 Nov 2020 | Warning Access: Track access |
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Location
- Lat/Lon: -36.77623, 146.76784
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Grade citation
| 16 | Assigned grade |
| 16 | ★★ RockGUIDE: Victoria |
| 16 | ★★★ Mt Buffalo |
| 16 [15 - 16] | grAId |
ethic
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.
Seasonality
Quality
Overall quality 77 from 150 ratings.
Difficulty - 16
Based on 8 ratings.
Suggested Grade
Based on 8 ratings.
Tick Types
Comment keywords
Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Simon Murray and Kevin Lindorff
Date: 2006
"The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts.
The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts. This 234 page guide is the most comprehensive guide for Mt Buffalo and even though being the 5th edition released in 2006, is the latest version."
Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson
Date: 2011
ISBN: 9780646529387
Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.
Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest
Date: 1994
ISBN: 0646167308
A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo
Accommodations nearby more Hide
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