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Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave

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Description

Impressively large roof system with a large assortment of climbs. Stays completely dry in the rain but can be affected by mist if the elements are against you. Be prepared for some serious pump.

Access issues

This area is on National Park land so be sure to be respectful of the local public and environment.

If parking on Mulhall St but be careful not to encroach on peoples driveways and do not park in front of Number 6. Under no circumstances should you park on Albert st.

Approach

*Changed the directions a bit to keep people away from the houses.

Park at the Lobster Beach walking track (17 High View Rd, Wagstaffe) Follow the paved track then the stairs straight up to the top of the hill until just before the stairs that head down to the beach. Turn right here (Don't take the trial before that heads diagonally back down the hill you just came up) and follow the cliff top trail for about 500 m, past the bouldering area up on the hill to the right, and past a wooden house until you reach a group of boulders. Take the downhill left fork for a few metres, then head straight downhill for about 20m.Cut back left under a small overhang and along the base of the cliff, the cave will appear.

Ethic

There are still a few projects here. Please respect the bolters and stay off.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The first crack you come to.

FA: Chris Bentham, 2008

Hex bolts to lower off outside cave.

FA: Anthony Alexander

Up the nice orange/red rock moving leftward at the 3rd bolt. Then cast off left from good block to slopey crimpers and reachy moves, to get across to 4th bolt. Trend up and left to get stood up via little footers. Great technical climbing, that is well protected.

FA: Paul Rivere

First line of bolts inside the cave. Climb to the ledge then lean back to the small roof and follow right to anchors. Alt start also known as Spider Pig

FA: Dave Lofthouse

Set: Dave Lofthouse

Follows the seam near the start of the cave on slopey goodness to ledge then traverse roof to Lofty's (spider pig's) anchors.

FA: anthony alexander

Up the first 2 bolts of Calamari to big break, then left along break to finish up Beautiful Box.

FA: Tm Haasnoot

Short, powerful, technical! Bust through the crux of calamari then head left on bad holds. Wrestle the bulge and traverse to finish at the anchors of Spider Pig. Bonus points if you find the bat-hang rest.

FA: Pete Tosen

Straight up wall and through roof on knob hold, then out right to finish on single ring.

FA: Tim Haasnoot

A direct start to Omega Free with a hard compression boulder and a blank spot..

Tough line finishing on the lip of the first cave. Up past 3 bolts then move out left and then straight out roof.

FA: Jason Piper

Start on "Omega Free" but go straight up after 3rd bolt to lower off "Fishermans Basket"

FA: Tim Haasnoot

Start 2m right of Omega free, straight up to Fisherman Basket anchours.

FA: Jason Piper

Start up Omega Free and traverse through Ados route and fishermans basket to anchors of Tartar.

Start at crab stick then move right at 2nd bolt and finish at fishermans basket anchors.

FA: Adrian Child, 2010

Up slopes to undercling, then hard move to gain upper section of cave. Move left on slopey ledge to exciting sitting finish.Starts just after the first pinch gap on the low bolt. Back jump to clean.

Climb the first four bolts on fishermans basket through short roof then right to anchors.

FA: JP & TH

Start at fishermans basket up to roof then traverse under roof left to right. One of the easier routes of the cliff.

FA: Paul Riviere, 2008

The line moving slightly right with big move to bird poo slopey ledge.

Easily up wall to tough move below roof.

FA: Lauren Johnson

Start as you would for 'Pinchy the Lobster' first 3 bolts then head right on the last 2 carrots of 'Second Cave Carrots'

FA: Eric c

Follow (6) carrots through slopey goodness

Slopey underclinging. Same start as 'Lobster' for the first 2 bolts then trend left onto 3 bolts to finish at 'Second Cave Carrots' anchors.

FA: Anthony Alexander

Original line bolted ground up, easier line moving slightly right to lower off under roof.

FA: Anthony Alexander, 2007

Up 'Lobster', Diagonally right then through roof flake to lower off.

FA: Jason Piper

Out roast lobster roof then continue to top out!

FA: Jason Piper, 2010

Traverse the entire wall at roof level right to left starting next to block at right end of cave.

Set: paul

FA: Paul Riviere, 2008

An epic line that follows The Red into Roast Lobster Mornay all the way to the top of the cave.

FA: Jason Piper, 2012

Start on the face left of the block. Out roof then traverse left to anchors on Roast Lobster.

FA: Jason Piper

First climb outside of the cave on the right side. Long way to the first bolt, probably best to stick-clip

FA: VW

Start ontop of block at right end of cave, out past 4 bolts the hard move out right over lip to lower off at top.

FA: Tim Haasnoot

Second climb out from the cave on the right side. 3 bolts to double rings at the top

FA: DF

At the R end of the slabs above the beach known as Little Lobster, 150m N of Lobster Beach. Was a little slick on the FFTRA! Approx 30-50m N of the more recently established Lobster Cave routes.

FA: FTRA Will Monks & Peter Monks, 1996

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Sat 10 Jun
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