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Outer Kingdom

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Summary

In a galaxy far far away...

Description

Or maybe not so much...

Access issues inherited from Mt Alexander

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Approach

Park at the pull-out on a sharp bend in the road and follow the 4WD track behind kingdom boulders to a clear grassy area. From here head west down into grassy gulley and be astounded.

Ethic inherited from Mt Alexander

Do not bolt highball problems except with agreement of the first ascentionist. In general, keep bolting to a minimum. Since 2010 there was been almost zero bolting of new routes.

History

History timeline chart

As with all dark past on the hill Charlie Creese features heavily as both the source and the inspiration. Recent work done by Garry Williams, Pete Reynolds, Mark Rewi and others.

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Areas

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11
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4m

Routes

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Grade Route

A bit gritty. On the boulders approximately 50m NW of Tanatalus. Sit start under the arete with obvious groove/flake feature. Much easier from a stand.

The arete right of Hollow Arete. Stand start on the lowest side pulls and make some tricky moves.

The obvious easy scaled wall NW of and facing Tantalus. Sit/stand/whatever.

Cool low ball! SDS left hand on arete and right-hand on good crimp in middle of face. Pull on and slap up the right arete before rocking over onto the left face.

FA: Jamie, Nov 2021

About 20m east of the Meteor Hammer boulder. Stand-start on left arete with good crimps. Move diagonally up toward the right arete before committing to the sloping top out.

FA: Jamie

About 100m north of the Tantalus boulder. Stand-start with high left-hand crimp and low right-hand undercling. Get to the juggy ledge on the right then rock over to the left.

FA: Jamie, Nov 2021

Stand start and climb the arete on the left-hand side. Don't use the detached block at the base for your feet at this grade.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 28 Sep 2021

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 29 May
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