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The Monster in the Forest All Bouldering 12 routes in area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 51
12
BLDV
V3V4V5V7V9

Seasonality

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Summary

An amazing big and scary boulder, with several other good boulders surrounding it.

Description

Some of the best highballs going. You’ll need a rope and harness to get off. 2FH anchor.

Access issues inherited from Mt Alexander

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Ethic inherited from Mt Alexander

Do not bolt highball problems except with agreement of the first ascentionist. In general, keep bolting to a minimum. Since 2010 there was been almost zero bolting of new routes.

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Routes

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1
V5 ★★★ Taniwha Boulder 6m

Sensational. Sit start off the ramp using the glued flake. Long move to jug then technical climbing uo the right side of the arete to a tenuous finish way up high. ABSEIL DESCENT!

FA: Mark Rewi

2
V10 ★★★ Kia tupato te taniwha Boulder 9m

Beware the monster. When you find it you’ll know. All time, hard and a bit terrifying. Roof to hard moves to gain the flake and amazing arete. Be careful up high.

3
V6 ★★★ Black Wind Boulder 6m

The glorious arete on the left end of the orange face. Stand start and compress to gain jug at 2/3 height. 2 mantles see you home from there. Has a directional bolt for TR above finish. ABSEIL DESCENT.

FA: Mark Rewi

4
Hello Darkness Project Boulder 6m

Cool start using edge and horn near the arete right of Dirty Creatures. Move up and left into that line (or traverse into left arete?) to finish.

5
V5 ★★★ Dirty Creatures Boulder 6m

The excellent parallel seams/grooves on the back (East) side of the boulder. Start on boulder with left hand crimp and crystals for right. Hard move stepping off the boulder (will be much easier if you can reach the pocket or seams) then surf the line to a cool finish. ABSEIL DESCENT!

FA: Mark Rewi

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6
V4 ★★ Gretel Boulder 4m

Ian and James couldn't pick a name between them. Luckily Charlie saved the day! Nice west facing diamond shaped face with a big slope jug rail to start below the monster. Sit start left end of rail and straight up.

FA: James Lannan

7
V3 Hansel Boulder 3m

As for Gretel to the pockety hold then hard right to jug on arete then up. Originally climbed from a stand but a sit start is better.

FA: Charlie Creese

8
V3 ★ The Bloodthirsty but not too smart Witch in the Gingerbread House / Gingerbread Boulder

SS as for Gretel, work to right hand end of rail and up to arete then top. Has also been climbed swinging from the rail low under the arete.

FA: James Lannan

9
V4 ★ Butch Cassidy Boulder 2m

Steep Lowball directly opposite James and Ians problems. Undercling and RH side pull (big flake and detached chock near flake are out for feet). Up to slopey lip and awkward mantle.

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10
V6 ★ Red Rocket Boulder 2m

Sit start matched on the good low jug. Gaston, heel hook, and sharp edges up the arete. No rocking over early - top out at the apex.

A little bit gritty but the moves are decent.

11
V4 ★ Boxing Day Boulder 3m

Has a touch of the Lisa Machete. Start laying away with both hands at base of the crack left of red rocket. One hard pull to get established then up crack and groove.

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12
V3 ★★ The Spaces Between Boulder 3m

Great problem just west of The Monster in the Forest. Sit start on the low horizontal crack and climb up the bulge via edges and crimps, staying left of the arete all the way to the top.

FA: Matthieu Burgess, 19 Jan 2023

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Sublimb Climbs

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Buy
ⓘ
RockGUIDE: Victoria

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Buy
ⓘ

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V10 ★★★ Kia tupato te taniwha

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