Routes in Central Tablelands for selected grade

Crouch start both hands in slot/pocket to begin, head up on pockets to a pad edge jump to the top. Aretes are off.Different heights will give different grades.

Chris Beers

Alec Landstra

Up through some decent edges to a fairly average one and then gain the left bucket by kicking out to it, it can be done in different ways but this way gets the grade.

Chris Beers

Ignore the first set of anchors and keep on climbing up the ever thinning seam crack that eventually fades to crimps. Mega. (There is also a couple of bolts above the extension on the juggy grey slab above to reach the main ledge - but no pitch above these.)

RBs just right of Exile. Crosses Exile up high.

Orange thin face right of the central scoop feature. Finishes when the rock goes black and crap.

Nail hard extension above the scoop feature. A lot of the bolts are hard to clip until at your waist. Finishes at same set of high anchors at Climbalot.

Great climbing getting continually harder as you go. Start as for Mr Magoo but after the sixth bolt head left crossing Tucker Time and continue left and over the left side of the roof.

People complain about link-ups, but if it's fun it's fun and this one's great. Up Hairline 2000 to the rest then right into the crux of Mr Tickle .... delishious.

The last route on main wall. Starts 1m R of Dogbite then keeps drifting R around onto the next face.

A short but very hard number though the bulge before the bliss traverse. Pretty much V9+ on a rope. Unrepeated??

From the horn on To Infinity And Beyond push straight up into a hard boulder to join Light Years.. Follow this till the second last bolt then traverse right back onto TIAB and finish out right.

Great climbing, no stopper crux. Start as for Phils project

Another long pumper with a dynamic pouce at the crux. Climbs really well and is much steeper then it looks.

An old abandon project by Dr Chris, recently fully bolted and freed by Steve. Hard boulder down low to a sustained head wall.

Hard start on "jugs" then great long wall above, reportedly very good.

The overhung face just right of the waterfall on the left end of the fixed ropes - starting off the shale ledge. Very hard start followed by great climbing on the pumpy red wall above. Seeps after heavy rain.

Gingerly start off right cairn, shared start with Flight Risk. Hard moves off the cairn and trend right at ledge through big moves to shield/flake then up. Logan

Emil's last great line of main wall. Punchy start shared by Pit-fit to the ledge then hard moves up to the box roof for the beta crux above. Get a few breaths in as the technical crux awaits above.

Second last route on the left, starting about 2m left of The Sword.

A brilliant route offering superb, pumpy climbing until the devious crux sequence. Walk all the way right on the ledge, past a couple of rungs to a small ledge. Best to stick clip the first 2 bolts and trend left through the limestone-like pockets then up. A classic route. Start rung is now glued in and a few more rungs have been added to the slippy traverse.

Start as for Rolling Thunder then head right at the ledge. Finish as for Astral Traveller's last 3 bolts.

Avoids The Arkenstone's bouldery lower crux by coming in from the left. Clip the first bolt on Force Cannon, then up right past four new bolts to join the original at the 'hourglass' hold. Finish directly up through the roof as for Arkenstone.

Three distinct boulder problems. So good! 6 bolts to lower off.

Steep grey wall among the trees 20m L of CDD. Take care on the loose shale above a big drop as you round the corner. Tom

Start as per Brummel Hook and head 5m right at the second bolt. Sustained and technical face climbing leads to a vague 'letter box' rest, and a series of boulder problems above to an anchor underneath the big roof.

An epically long steep quest, never harder than 26ish ... but rarely easier. Joins Elephant Man for the last 2 bolts. Circle around the 2nd last bolt, similar either way. 70m rope isn’t enough to lower off. Redirect(s) essential to make the ledge.

Started at grade 28, quickly went to 29 and may see another advance yet. Either climb with second bolt clipped, or use locking biners on the first (a backclip would see two people go to the valley floor!). Climb up and gently rightward to roof. Head around the lip and hit the accelerator. Traverse left above the lip, up several metres and then break right and up until your forearms resemble base ball bats and you feel like if you fall you will land in the valley way below. Use a minimum 70m rope or you may well land in the valley.

Start at the base of the wall to the right of Heisenburg Corner. Traverse to arete, head up and come back onto the face to reach the roof. Around this and continue up the face for a rather long way. Probably the line of this sector.

There are three routes that share a common start marked by a small 'dry stone' platform with an undercling horn above it. Boulder up the side pull feature to attain a good break. Traverse left and up through some difficult moves, then continue up for more of the same.

Start 2m right of Dumbo Love project. An absolute cracker!

Left of seamstress. jug rope to first bolt.

Start as for Assassins, climbing through the first lava roof. Instead of going into Assassins final roof crux, head right along break to final little gate keeper moves. A great new addition to the crag. Named after Matt's dog Sadie who sadly died a few days after scoping it out with him.

Tackles the obvious prow near the centre of the wall, then through the roof and finish along left at the lip. Has an fun final move.

Start: Directly up the blunt arete. edit: no info is known about where this route is.

Sit start. Up the corner. To high horn-like jug rail.

At Carpark boulder. Tom O'Halloran

Start to the right and head left along slopers and finish via a frog serge manoeuvre as per TC & BOMY - problems to the right have been destroyed by rock fall - careful of dodgy rock

Obvious open-book corner. Sit-starts and lay-back and pinch towards obvious slopey rails rails. Drop off from lip of top out if it's not too wet

Right of HCL, tops out, wear your nappy

Doug McConnell

A link up. Take 'Equaliser' to near 4th bolt then bouldery past a RB on the R to join 'Fabricator'.

Starts as Equaliser, but goes straight up.

Thin and balancy...and powerful.

Batman start and then up the flake as for 'Iron Mike' before busting out right through some of the finest face climbing Shipley has to offer.

Start up the unforgiven till the 4/5 bolt and head right.

Hectic amounts of climbing. Start as per Larger Than Life. Instead of following Larger Than Life where it climbs slightly downward at the obvious break soon after you start traversing, head straight across the iron stone band, through the roof, and diagonally up. Double dyno to achieve the break and motor left. Continue along the break several meters past the point where Larger than Life intersects (under the perma-draw, which is not on this route). Climb through the roof when the break peters out, turn the lip and head leftward up the headwall to double rings.

Start with the 6m batman off the plank, cruise up R to a hard but good boulder problem out the blank roof. Don't (let your belayer see you) grab the chains.

Unless you're short!

Start just R of the two wooden posts. Once was an aid route called 1914 (25M0). Start was aided to the jug, then traverse right and up through the layback as for Bare Essentials - thus avoiding the actual climbing of both routes, to finish as it does today.

You can keep your feet on if you are tall.

A good fun gymnastic route. Start at the large sandy ledge about 15m left of White Linen. Rebolted 2020/21ish (thanks), but beware the repositioned 3rd bolt is now a much harder clip if you prefer the direct beta past the 2nd, and also makes it riskier to skip the 4th (i.e. as per the Temptation video).

Was once one of the hardest routes in the Blue Mountains, and one of Mark's finest hours. Now a popular testpiece. Start in the middle of the wall. Stick clipping the first bolt is strongly recommended. WARNING: the fixed clip-n-go biners at the top are the dodgy cast ones which can snap. Inspect them for cracks, clip both, and if in doubt thread something else. Leah

Radness start to Tsunami. Start just right of Tsunami / Smoked Mussels, and boulder your way into Tsunami at the 3rd bolt.

Start as for SM and climb it until just before the lob to the break and bust left and up to enter Sea Air crux.

Short, sharp with some hard to clip bolts. (Has been upgraded after a hold broke off.) chris

Starts 2/3 of the way down the stairs before the base of Centennial Pass.

Even better than Vanity Case? Fantastic sustained fingery climbing. Start as for Vanity Case for 4 bolts to ledge then the R line.

Arête next to Pyro. Start up corner then veer left onto arête, up to first Anchors. Very technical climbing with several cruxes. Put your thinking cap on.... (there's 2 crimps in the first Boulder that are quite often moist. be careful not to blow a tendon. once chalked up they stay dry.)

A brutal piece of body wrenching roof climbing, with an accuracy demanding pounce. 'The sword' in the stone next to the anchors will decide the true king.

A true battle for the first ascent, a clash of horns between two galiant titans, the victor will be forever etched in history, while the defeated lad is not worth mentioning.

Tricky clip, squeeze hard it will be over soon, you'll be back at work and will long for the chance to once again dance apon the rocks.

The first route on the left wall of the gully, before you hit the creek. The belay zone is perpetually muddy, so a rope tub rather than rope bag is recommended. Scramble onto high platform to put your shoes on then blast off. Much effort has gone into ensuring the unique ironstone "wave" in the final roof stays in place for your climbing pleasure. You can happily hang off it and double kneebar against it - just don't kick it or try to deliberately break it. Take one long sling for the first roof.

The rightmost of two mini-routes in the roof opposite the stairs (the left is a closed proj). Belay at creek level on dry rock platform. All killer, no filler (and no kneebars) out the roof to the lip (single bolt). Backjump.

The big left to right traverse. Start 10m L of POD under large hueco. Stickclip then blast right (including some up and down climbing) along huge features to the crux transition climbing up to the big roof. Then jug upwards to glory. Better beta has seen this settle at 29.

Start where the track meets the rock. High stickclip to start; steep, moderate climbing for 6 bolts to a ledge below the 'slab'. A baffling move to overcome the slab and then it's game on up the headwall on cool pockets to an improbable-looking, dynamic crux. Take one long sling for the first bolt on the slab.

1m R of The Specialist. With its multiple roof boulders, has a very similar flavour to The Specialist, but likely a touch harder. Deceptive headwall finale.

Up pockets and through roof to ledge. Full body climbing through the next steep section to ledge. A lower angle final third caps things off. Take a couple of long slings and kneepads.

The first route you get to, up the arete and right at the top. Pretty wild...

Batman start. A few metres to the right 'She Male'. Near the right side of the cave.

Start as per Captain My Captain but continue trending right and then up. Small holds, powerful moves.

Awesome, steep, exposed, the line immediately to the left of the prominent black streak. Outrageous climbing in the most exposed position in the Bluies. Fix a rope and rap down as for Scurvy, Stiletto etc, down the initial slab (pitch 2) and then over the sucking void clipping many bolts as you go to stay in contact with the wall. After approx. 70m you'll arrive on the major ledge which has a series of belays along it. Anchor in to some of the bolts on the left but belay from the position with the single bolt next to an empty bolt hole (???).

The FA was climbed from the ground via Red Edge and Red Edge Variant.

1. 45m (29) The absolute money. Good rock, rad moves, and very spaced bolts. Monkey your way through the awesome steep jugs to a long, sustained, and desperate crux section. Fire this, take a rest, and bust out one more tricky sequence to the choss cave. Congratulations, you're halfway there. Steel thyself and clench thy teeth as you bust out another long section of sustained steepness to finally collapse at the anchor wide eyed and drained of all energy. Classic. 10 bolts.

2. 25m (?? easy) This pitch has no bolts but looks very easy. Either embrace the death solo or consider traversing across to one of the equally easy looking alternate exit pitches. Or jug out.

New start into Mudeye then finish direct via Onions Extension. Loads of fun climbings and a good option if the Onions start is under siege.

Onions for 5 bolts then a cool pocket boulder to move R into Don't Believe.

The Boronia classic and continually under siege. Onions start, head R as for Tripe to 5th bolt, L into the flake and up. Fixed draws are a common sight on this route and become extremely sharp very quickly. Check them carefully or risk death. Bin any sharp ones you find. Clint Inalee

A RHF for Tripe.

THE CRAG CLASSIC, Stunning fist size crack coming from underneath the cave with amazing seams and slopers to top out on.

Starts up Bloodline, then follows Booby Trap left a move and up 2m to the jugs. Now avoid the top crux of Booby trap by easy jugging L and up the last 2 bolts of TWOAF.

Start as for Brain Haemorrhage at top of large sloping block. Boulder out the thin start then good jugs await. After 10m, where BH goes up, scuttle R to a good rest before the sustained crux up the flake and into the roof crack. Steep! Mattia

' My first real project I suspect. Gonna take some time!' yep , three years and one week.. from the ground climb tck , clip high bolt on arrete , sit on the ledge and pull the rope through then up heading right after hands free rest on arette. A 80cm sling above kneebar rest and two more on traverse /crux were used. A grade 30 move or two on a grade 25 route. Would be very soft for tall people. Happy to downgrade if anyone repeats it clean from ground and dissagrees with 29.

The low crux looks quite mingin' but actually climbs very well.

The more pleasant and sustained way to climb this route. Start as for Freak on a Leash but traverse left into Pigs in Space just above its hard, bouldery start.

Steep start then traverse left along the big horizontal then to a hard sequence below the top roof.

Unusual and absolutely desperate moves through the mid-height roof.

climb straight into frustrating roof boulder problem then head leftwards towards another hard move before exiting to anchors

A link of the Mr Redeemer start to the 5th? bolt then traverse a rad ironstone break into the upper crux of Fast Forward The Future.

Good all the way, with a hard start and finish. Once you have a draw on the last bolt, most people find it easier to skip the awkwardly placed 2nd to last bolt. Can be linked into the top of SBA to give an easier finish (about 27-if you can get off the ground).

A long move at the second bolt, then superb climbing to a bouldery crux. Be prepared to get frustrated if you are trying this one during a La Niña weather pattern.

In public service parlance, an ‘outside emergency’. Shared start then low and right before heading up the steepness. Steep and sustained on generally good holds. To avoid drag, clip the rightmost of the 3 third bolts.

Starts 3m left of DMTT.

Reportedly freed by Derek Thatcher and Zac Vertrees. Start up Aesthetic Images to its 2nd bolt, then rising traverse left to gain line of bolts right of Candle Power. About grade 29.

The line straight up the centre of the overhang, tackling some serious steepness. 5m to the right of The vector

Consistently steep fun moves on some of the best rock in the area. Access along the ramp from Chasing stars.

Start with a right hand on the crimp just below the lip, and left hand on a side pull down low. Work your way up and mantle onto the slab

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