Routes in Illawarra and Shoalhaven for selected grade

The arete at the bottom of the walk down gully. Starts with short diagonal handcrack then traverse right to arête.

Well bolted sport route up clean grey streak behind tree. Finish right to shared lower-off.

Climb starts right next to tree. This climb is excellent and it easy for the grade.

Top-rope only. 2m right of Unnamed 1. Flake to first horizontal, then to short, little corner at top.

Line of bolts left of Chain-saw. Crimps, jugs, toe-jams... Got them all!!

Start on arete. Tricky start past 2nd RB then great climbing on left wall, move to arete towards the top. Finish back on left at hidden lower offs. A sweet climb...

A homage to the original Stanwell Tops crusher. Layback the bottom corner into the crack and jam your way to glory. The crack takes as many small to medium cams as you can plug. Fixed anchors at top of crack. A very new route so give it a brush.

UP SS or HOC, up arete for 2 bolts, then right up HOC for the easy finish.

The line of tight squeeze directly up from Hotdog Power. A nice bit of continuous intensity climbing up the flake until a no hands rest spoils it all. Top is easier than it first appears. Start at Hotdog Power and continue straight up the line of bolts. For a much better start do the easier less knee destroying Hotdog Water start and traverse in for the same grade.

Start as for Shutdown Funk but follow the left line of bolts. Then up the left side of the arete above. Can be used as an alternate start to Shutdown Funk to eliminate the need to carry a rack of wigglies. If you are finding it hard for the grade then either; (1) Get stronger or (2) Grow taller.

Juggiest route at Stonehaven? now extended an extra 2 bolts at the same grade. Up steep grey wall about 15m R of Shutdown Funk. Up to roof, right and up. Over ledge and up to high anchor out right.

The crack right of the obvious corner. Get up it before it regrows. Hardly a hand jam in sight. Plenty of trad pro available if you get a feeling of revulsion clipping bolts up a crack and need to revert to your primal trad placing self.

Incredible face to the right of the obvious crack splitting the wall. Crag classic test piece 20.

Obvious Flake to the left of Better Than A Poke In The Eye.

Start 3 meters right of Better Than a Poke in the Eye on the rounded arete. One technical move that may be difficult to spot if not chalked, the rest of the climb is easy jugging. Will tend to silt up after rain.

Right hand side of the arete. Starting at the same holds as Mud Monkey. Climb the wall just in from corner. A bit easier than Mud Monkey and a little more straight forward. Interesting move sequence to finish.

AAron paid for the bolts, much appreciated mate.

Right of 'Krazy Kanguruh' Start off ledge formed by the top of a block at the bottom of the cliff. Step in right and up the line of juggy holds to head wall. At the head wall move right when standing on the big round ledge and do a common move with 'Fraken Toasters' on the right. Traverse back to the left of the seam and follow juggy flake to top anchors. A little soft for the grade.

Wall to the right of Bolts By AAron. Starts out of the left side of choss scoop or off the block on the left. Put the sandy stuff out of mind cos you are going to climb some of the best head wall at Stonehaven if you can get to it.

Wall and arete left of MooserWirt. Start on the right side of the ledge under scoopy sand pit, 2 meters left of MooserWirt. A good finishing section makes up for the juggy bottom half.

This apres ski gang bang is an extension to MooserWirt by going a little higher and topping out where the rock meets grunge.

The left most line of bolts starting from the ledge in the cave.

Start at the right side of the cave. Put up with the slightly chossy first half and all the rest ledges for a great top section. Follow line up to where the roof juts out and layback your way to glory. Nice easy slab to finish which shares some of the holds with Apres Ski to the right.

About 25m past MooserWirt. Obvious line of bolts. Use holds out left in Skibumski before the top.

Wall to the right of Apres Ski, and just left of the crack. Nice clean slabbing.

Clean orange face just left of the corner above the access rungs to the ledge. Finishes at anchors in the cave. Interesting moves to get you standing on the ledge then it gives up.

Orange corner just above the access rungs. Multiple ways to climb the crux section so if it spits you off try looking for an alternate technique that suits your style.

Arete Left of Va Ou ... Easier climbing than the crack but not quite a full grade easier. Think of it as soft for the grade and send it.

Crack line on the wall left of Little Flakey. Easy climbing until the little offset corner, a couple of harder moves and its back to jugging until the top.

Line of squeeze between Piedboeuf and the arete. Follow Piedboeuf to the ledge on the arete. From the ledge head straight up the face using holds from around the arete on the right and side pulls on the left for compression. Really nice climbing for a few short sequences then it gives up. Separate set of anchors exist at the top just left of the arete. A direct start exists (V5) but its too much hard work.

Start left of Pendulous Testicles. Starting from the big jug under the first bolt and eventually using the small right side pull and the little undercling gets you to the first break. A three move crux and a bunch of jugs.

Start two meters right of the obvious crack line. Grunty start leads to a nice sequence of moves with little foot holds up to the Honnold ledge. Where if you have the nuts you can stand facing out with no hands.

Next route right of Tataclop. Start at the obvious low bolt on the wall clippable from the ground. Standing up on the ledge can be fun.

Route to the right of Contremaitre. Possibly one of the best routes in Stonehaven, a little short. Grunty start leads to a fling, a stretch and a few nice holds to the anchors.

Could be a bit tricky, but it has the best undercling move at the crag. Happy Birthday Jimmy !!!

Arete right of Who the Fuck is Kenny, over pinned block then wall, clip last bolt from big underclings out left. R to funky finish. (it means ‘poignancy in imbalance’ in Japanese)

The furthest right route on the main ringbolted wall, about 4m right of Dreg Mix. Three RBs to lower-off. This climb has some great pockets!

Jugs down low and up top with a cool crux in-between

Start in the corner head around the arete into the next corner and straight up to the cave then out over the roof onto the slabby headwall.

Head out the left side of the cave and straight up the headwall.

Start at series of flakes and cracks, up and left to the ledge the up arete to top.

Up the orange arete.

Double ring bolt anchor. 1st accent was rope solo. Anyone welcome to bolt it

Pretty improbable for the grade, traversing under and out some massive roofs. Take plenty of long draws and a few slings to keep the rope-drag under control. The route starts at same belay shared with Captain Cheese and shared the first few bolts with that route. Rap down the Captain Cheese corner to the semi-hanging belay in sandy white scoop to the right of the arete. Start by traversing right along tricky wall to reach major corner with fern. Now launch up and right onto white juggy overhung face trending right to stance in corner under huge roof. Swing out right across juggy break to lip of roof, then finish up excellent thin slab and face and flake above. Double UB belay at op, but it's probably better to rig rope off rap bolts in boulder above Captain Cheese. At least 12 bolts on this route in total. It can be split into two pitches.

Steep corner crack on trad with bolted belays. Very airy! Both pitches can be combined into one mega pitch if you bring enough trad. To descend fix rap rope to double u-bolts in large boulder on top of cliff. Rap down the corner (which is what you are climbing up). At base of corner keep rapping down overhung arete to semi-hanging belay in white sandy scoop (shared pitch 2 belay with Titanical). It is also possible to extend top rap anchor with long slings and rap in on doubled ropes and pull them afterwards for mega commitment factor.

1. 13m (20) Traverse directly right from belay past u-bolt to overhung corner crack (u-bolt). Climb the very overhung right side of corner on bubbly pockets, placing medium/large cams in horizontals. When a break finally appears on the left wall step over to it and traverse across to double u-bolt hanging belay on arete (shared anchor with Titanical).

2. 20m (17) Very exposed! Straight up to roof and corner crack, that starts wide and thins quickly. Stem up this with occasional ledges to top. This pitch is very well protected on trad - take cams from #4 to #0.25 thin finger size. Belay well back on double u-bolts in boulder.

The original route on this wall and one of the best. All routes are graded relative to this as a reference. The fourth line of bolts in from the left.

Nice with 1 reachy move. Black streak 10m down and R of the rap route (Escape the Dungeon), start at belay bolt. Left and up, loweroff and anchors on right at top

Start up the First 2 bolts of Big Fat Fin Slappers 2nd pitch before heading straight up the thin crack. Fantastic rock and good gear #1.25 and smaller.

Funky with rests, rap down 12m to DBB on Big Fat Fin Slappers. Arete around right of Stem and Leaf. Step left or straight up at top.

An epic line that blasts straight up the centre of the overhanging headwall and easiest direct line from the belay ledge to the top out bolts. Bit of everything, cruxy start into jug traverse into pockets, slab then pumpy overhanging victory jugs to the top!

Short but intense sending up the end of the bright red overhanging wall on the right side of the Penthouse.

Fun technical climbing with lots of rests. Start up the Crystal Pistol for one bolt and right along unique traverse including cruxy down-campus SLAB move (clip the bracket straight after to protect the second). Then up wall and slappy bit. Belay possible off double bolts on ledge at end of traverse if you want the belayer to hear you on the top moves. Lower off double Ubolts at top (then pull rope and reverse traverse a bit), or go into bushes 5m to 2 fixed hanger belay.

Splitter fingercrack on gorgeous orange rock on the right side of the main ledge, 2m right of Gravity. Overhangs at least a metre. Shared lower-off anchors with Gravity.

The first route established on the wall. Worth it for the length and the view! This is a fully bolted sport route but there is a significant amount of dirt and loose rock in some sections - be careful. Not suitable as a first multi pitch route. Take a scrubbing brush or paintbrush to clean holds. After you land from the abseil, walk north along the cliff about 30 m until you come to a fallen tree at the base of the wall. That's where it starts.

1. 25m 18 Stand on the tree to get past the choss. Be careful clipping the third bolt. Go up and around the arete, then up onto a ledge (lots of dirt). Climb up the flake to a DBB.

2. 10m Not really a pitch. Walk left along "sketch ledge" until you reach a DBB. Be careful and rope up if you're uncertain of safety.

3. 25m 17 The best pitch! Up and then traverse left then up to a nice ledge. DBB.

4. 15m 18 Traverse out along the break and then go up to a small belay ledge DBB. Be prepared for dirt on the last few holds.

5. 15m 18 Up through the dirty dihedral (it's ok to pull on the tree), then traverse right on some sketchy rock, up to a DBB.

6. 15m 20 Mantle, then head left along the ledge. Climb up the face to the arete, then execute one last tricky mantle and you're done! DBB.

Delicate start then easy up.

Stand start and up textured seam on mossy boulder.

Short boulder with some big moves with big holds. Finishes at the obvious jug

Located ~20m past the North flat wall. Sit start in pocket and up left to top-out.

Plenty of good holds for a easy power boulder, but very exposed.

From the top of WGA rappel over edge to the right (facing out) to small ledge. Climb back up wall past rusting bolts.

From the base of WGA walk around left and scramble up to next climbs at a crack with initials 'FOY'

An improbable overhanging red wall. No protection.

"A streno jug haul roof/arete/wall climb". Initialled. Start at Dark Side Of The Turkey and traverse right on finger jugs to the lip of the roof. Up the wall past carrot.

* An excellent problem on good rock. A good start makes the climb. Over roof (clip ringbolt), up wall (passing 2nd ringbolt) to top. Toprope rings

Arete between Intrepid and Golden Years. Very good boulder problem.

Once a classic death route. Start 3m down left of Brigetta under the overhang. Battle up the juggy overhang (ringbolt), step up to overhang wall (ringbolt) and climb up to lip. Rightward on good holds to ramp. Up to double rings on your left.

[Dec 2012 - new bolt added before roof ] Fine climbing up an excellent wall. Up the arete and wall left of Short Legs and overhang passing 3 ring bolts to belay bolts at top.

A classic wall and roof climb. Start in middle of wall left of corner. Up middle of blank looking wall. At first bolt, don't use big undercling on left. Reach up high to flake under roof ( crux ), up over bulges past rings to double ring belay.

Natural and bolt protection. Take 2 brackets and 'freinds'. One hard move near the 1st bolt. The rest is around 17. Up the middle of the easy slab and reach left to clip 1st bolt. Place your feet and hands all on the same hold then crank for the next hold. Easy up to top bulge then bolt protects good top section. Toprope bolts over the top.

A low traverse of the west face starting in the corner and finishing on the block right of Intrepid. You can climb just above the ledge between Zatidee and Gumtree Wall but its nicer just to walk this bit. Gets a little high off the ground in places, due mostly to the massive amount of soil erosion that's taken place in the last 40 years.

Up the easy wall (bolt) to ledge beneath roof. Reach out and clip ringbolt, grovel out roof and mantle on rounds past ringbolt to the top.

Sit start on the big jug

Starting on the deep pocket just left of the right-arete, embark on a long traverse through a variety of cool crimps, slots and jugs before topping out with big moves on jugs at the far left end of the bloc. (this can be climbed as a line in its own right, The Altar of Lamentation, v0)

Although this is an obvious problem on an obvious section of rock, no information was recorded. The FA details are lost to the stoneage climbers who never bothered to tell anyone.

Start in the middle of the ledge as for Mr. Marsupial, and head straight up on crimps, to an easy mantle to top out directly above the start.

Start matched in the large hole/jug, and head straight up the crack.

Start low, hugging the boulder with left and right arete, use the arete on either side to progress. Trend left using crimps and slopers to top.

To start, match on the deep hold to the left of the boulder and bump right hand to the upper slit. keep traversing to the far side. Top out through the side of the boulder via the holds at the side and the top. Mind the footwork at the start, very cramped but fun.

Start wherever feels comfortable on the rails below, left foot jam into the hole, right foot on the lower rail. Span left hand up to the crimp, palm the start hold and move up through the crimps to the top out.

Start matched on obvious right rail, move to left crimp and top.

You need strength! Reach right to clip the 1st ringbolt, Jug/heel hook etc the overhung start and arete (ringbolt) then grovel up left OR go the direct finish (grade 24) on the left arete on sand covered slopers! Originally done as the full height (20), now typically only climbed to the first 8m anchor.

A nice little arete. Start just to the right of Hobo Chang. Clip 1st bolt from tree, then start down at the ledge. Up arete passing 2nd bolt to ledge.

Start 3m right of High Stepping. Follow the creaking carrots up the crappy looking wall.

The rock is pretty poor and the bolts badly need replacing! Leading this climb would get you into a maggot factory! Start 10m left of Warhol the shitty looking wall following the bolts to the lower off chain.

4m to the left of this climb there is an unfinished project that starts just off the small corner. The bolts are pretty sus and it would give 21 a solid nudge

A climb for those addicted to adreneline! Start at the skinny crack. Up past the old creaking bolts.

Face climbing on ironstone edges. Up the wall with a tricky move down low. 4 rings to double ring belay.

8m left of Gourmet at the thin crack. Bouldery moves then up the crack to ledge. Right traverse to groove then up to next ledge. Final moves follow the bulgy off-width OR follow the crack at the far right of the ledge.

Start 4m left of Windy, under the overhanging corner. Up the corner to the smallish roof and traverse to the left to those jugs. Up to a belay in the groove. Follow the cracks up just right of the arete above the overhang and on up wall following your nose. Mixed trad route with carrots to start. The line of ringbolts left of the arete is a totally seperate route.

Rings with clip-and-go anchor

Short poxy and full of scum. Start 2m left of Dead Cat. Up wall trending left. Exit at top just right of the nose up there. A good grovel on the rounds to exit.

A roof climb equipped with hoonkas (big farkin buckets!) Start under the overhang. up the orange crud to the good rock. Under roof to lip and out aroundlip to the small cave. Up corner to the top.