Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

5m L of X-Men up obscene steepness. Just awesome.

Prepare to be dominated. Climb Miss Sixty to last bolt, then grapple the overlap diagonally R passing another 5 FH’s to shared anchor of next route. Absolute beast of a pitch. Super good.

A real hidden classic.

Sit start under the steep wall on the right side, at the big undercling.

Head up following some slopey ledges, then swing across to left side of bloc, tricky tension moves guard the finish up then onto the arete. Highly recommended to scrub the top, as this bloc doesn’t get much sun.

Stand start. Hard mantle around a bulge.

This boulder is 10 m down stream of Mad Woman's Breakfast.

Sitting on other boulders, there is a short roof under the boulder. From the start position, your back is to the river.

Sit start on obvious large sloping feature with your left heel by your hands. Up to a small slopey crimp, or if you like, to the very small, incut and very sharp flexing crimp. Then pull hard and throw up to rail, match then very hard mantel top out.

Start at the Underbelly and link under through magic bean out other side.

Amazing short line. Stand start on good crimps then big hard dead point to slopper, match and mantle.

This has been glued since at least the early 2000s and likely done, this might possibly be 'New age'

Climb the imposing arete from a sit start, finishing up the left face.

SDS from detatched flake and dyno to lip via pinch rail before topping out.

A right hand hold below the pinch rail has broken, leaving the problem a little harder. It still awaits a post break FA.

Right sloper, left friction, then dyno? to massive jug

Chin up on the twin mono's. A taste of 'Action Directe' in New England!

From the Waterfall Dome Parking area follow the quad trail to the Dome, once you see the "Three Stooges" boulders, go uphill passing the stooges on the right for about 100m. As the hill gets steeper look to the right and you should see this boulder.

Sit start on obvious feature and head to right arete with difficulty and heel hooking. Once you get there, keep going up and left to top. Then keep your heart pumping by down climbing the 'Sickle of death project'.

Match on the big flake and dyno to glory

Low start sit/crouch R/H on slopey sidepull L/H on lowest sidepull flake, bump up right through sidepull to gain the flat edge/ bump left up through sidepull flakes then into the stand start

Sit start on heinous left hand pinch and right hand under cling or slopey side pull. Move up to slopey mono pocket intermediate before slapping to start of Pilum and finishing up the same way.

A Lesson in Core Movement direct. After the crux of core movement, head straight up to a slopey edge and delicately mantle your way out using various slopers and blind feet.

Direct top out of Eli's Closed Proj.

Start as for A Lesson In Core Movements and head up and right. Once at the lip, keep traversing right to top out as for Mick's Arete Left.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CNy4xvhlDih/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Start on the two slopers, a tricky sit move gains the right hand gaston finishing with a final jump to the lip. Not sure on the grade.

Sit start at the bottom right hand corner of the arete then move up and left on horrible slopes to a hard top out. NOTE: The far undercling holds on Micks arete are off.

Starts matched on obvious jug on the right side of the left arête. Head straight up using poor slopers and side pulls to mantle straight over the top. An awesome line.

Start: Sit start as for 'Yummy Noodle' Gain the tufa and move right under the capped roof on under clings as for 'Magic Beans' continue right across the little buldge, through the next little cave to finish as for Hydraulic

Start: Sit start as for 'Whats golden' but from the juggy underclings climb the short slick prow up and left on horrible slopes and pinches to finish on the high slot. Avoids the hand holds on the right wall and the left arete of 'Happy Pyramid'

Start as for 'Curve Ball' and finish as for 'Fast Ball' or 'Fast Ball Variant'. Harder than 'Bases Loaded' but not enough for an upgrade.

Start: As for Extened Line and link into all of fast ball or fast ball variant from the back ledge. Does not use any of the finish holds of 'Extended line' The big lip jug is off!

Start as for extended line but finish as for batter up

Starting 1-2m to the right of "Sinusoidal" on two edges in the roof. Move right to a pocket, and make a big move to the lip. Make your way up using crimps and slopers on the face ultimately joining "Sinusoidal" to finish

Just as you walk into the cave, start on two obvious juggy pockets just under the roof. Make a tough move out to a small crimp rail then a tricky jump to a flat ledge. Continue straight up the slab to top out.

Start as for room with a view but halfway out exit straight left through some tough moves to reach the jugs. The a large throw to lip before heading straight up the headwall to walk off.

Jenny Lin

Link Firing squad into broken boy solider exit. Once in double underclings of firing squad, make a hard move right to join the sloper rail of broken boy soldier and finish as per this problem. The whole Top Shelf (v3) ledge is off as are the Interloper (V4) slots/jugs under the roof.

Start: Sit as for Firing Squad.

Link the start of 'Top Shelf' into 'Bullet and a Target' into and topping out with 'High Calibre'.

6ft deep into Rats cause broken brains

Sit start on left hand crimp and right hand undercling pinch. Head straight out the rooflet into gold member. The back step isnt in to start.

Start on the big pockets on the pillar on the right of cave. Move out and left to join the lip and finish as for Goldie Horn.

Sit start to the right of the boulder and avoid using the rock on the ground. Powerful moves to the end of Hanging Low. Dabby and contrived.

A slightly harder right hand variant to Cry Baby. Start on the shelf about 2m right of Cry Baby, move out to the slopey under cling, pounce to a crimpy rail then move into the under clings to top out as for Cry Baby.

Start Jetski Jerks & staying below the break & holds on break until into Love Gun & finish same as Love Gun. Pumpy.

Probably the best route of its grade in Sydney! Start right of Stringybark on little shelf left of the corner. crux at start using a undercling then climb through a variety of holds to a hard drive-by moving rightwards and then up into the back-breaking press into the roof and a quick campus through to top-out glory.

A direct line up from the Goldfinger start via pocket and undercling then dyno to a slopey crimp on the lip and up the v easy top.

Chris Beers

Start on obvious jugs in the small cave, huge move to slot and up.

mattias braach-maksvytis Chris Beers

Start Massive Attack and traverse left into Warmup Warren.

Sit start at left of cave. Head out to the face and head up and left to top out as for Joe's Traverse. Formerly known as the "Unnamed Jannali 10"

Alex Ling

Start 'Savage', finish 'Paul's Present', no back wall.

A great present from the Toni and Klem road trip of '99. Very committing, desperate and good. Pad out the landing well as falling from the top out would be very ugly.

Start Exit Wounds and make four or five moves linking into Paul's Present. Could be soft?

Cory Cook

2 metres right of PP. Start on a good edge and an undercling (to the left of the small rock). Move powerfully out the roof left of the crack, and then bodly up the airy headwall trending left.

mattias braach-maksvytis

3m right of the crack, crawl into the back of the black dark cave...no go even further in again...go on, all the way.

Off the edge move right to the fin, undercling like a demon, then desperately slap out the slopey edges.

Sage G.

"TBH thought it was harder than Groove Terminator which got V11 but didn't think it would get 8A in the UK so gave it V10 instead." - Jon

A real wrestle. Starting on the obvious jug at the end of the rail, reverse Hollow mountain dreaming and finish up '7th Day Ascentist'.

Sit start on slopey crimp. Move straight up via sharp LH crimp to top on slopers.

Oliver Chen Tyrone Clements

Paste your feet on and dyno to slot then up through scoop.

Elijah Mercado

'Woolly Jumper' via the sharp crimp statically.

Tough move up to sidepull, then to mono and "better" holds, then up slab.

Sam Healy

Sit start into Paratroopin.

Start as for Paratroopin and keep traversing right into 'Pockets of the highlander'.

Sit start below Akhtar on the obvious slot and climb only the low lip left into Boogie Knights original finish. Knock a grade off for the variant finish.

Start up Diplomatic Immunity and traverse right through slopey break to finish up The Invisible Gerka, some where between hard V8 and V9/10

As for Rocket Man but right hand big move and top out left.

'L'Homme Obu' standing start from the big break on If The Shoe Fits. Power out to the LH pocket and finish up Rocket Pants.

Oliver Chen

Start as of 'Killer Arms' (v8) and finish up as for 'Pneuma' (v9).

(FA) John Bignold

Adds a low start to "All the tables are reversed in my private universe". Start at the very back of the cave and make a big move to the start jug of "tables" and finish as per the v10.

Chris Beers

Roman Rosen

Sit start on the tufa feature, powerful moves through roof finishing up the series of blunt pinches and edges in the centre of the headwall. Resist climbing out to better holds on the left. Named after James' cat.

Travis Bettison

The more common exit of Arcane Power before the truth was rediscovered. Finish up through the big pocket.

Peter Jeavons Travis B

Starting on the right end of the rail, a large move to a pocket and gymnastic moves join the start of Y2k Cont, moving back to finish up Mr Winston.

Starting on the left-most part of the rail with feet out left gives Cave Cats at the same grade via a morpho shouldery lockoff.

Climb Siotaro Wish Flower into Arcane Power.

Wall left of Golden Showers. Big jump off of rubbish crimps. Connor Lucas

From the very thin orange break, make a tricky and technical jump start, then take on the powerful and slopey top. V8 from Pete, V10 from Sharik Walker...

Same start as 'Big Spoon', but head right out of the cave and up through the pockets. Ending on a small crimp rail above.

Start at the low jug, dyno from the break to the top of the bulge and top-out a little to the right of the boulder. Could be V11.

mattias braach-maksvytis

Start as per Big Mitch then a bit left and up to little dish and a crimp then to the top break.

Top out or don't top out. You do you FA https://www.instagram.com/p/B0c2HO2jWPn/

Lip traverse and under the roof to finish up higher on a jug. Thin and powerful!

Start with your left hand in the pocket and your right hand on any of the Diffraction start holds. Move up and head left to join the arete before topping out. Sit start

Start up Deep Impact, heading onto the face via pocket. Top out up and right.

Liam Healy

Sit start to Stargazing. Start matched on the obvious block and go up.

Stand start on the break / side pull and follow the flaky feature leading to a scary topout.

Bad landing, bring pads and a spotter.

Sit start with LH on the low crimp and RH on the sloper.

Liam Healy - Original Beta

Mauricio Chino - Alternative Beta

Sit start under the jugs under roof and do a big move to join the stand start.

Start on the low slopers at the bottom of the arete and keep powering your way up it.

Tom Hodgson

Shared start with Booby Prize, but go straight out of the roof to a wild cut loose dyno at the end.

Sit start matched on the jug in the back of the overhang and climb directly out to a cruxy last move before the mantle.

Liam Healy

Stand start on the crimp rail at the very far back of the cave, do some powerful moves to gain the lip and exit directly up on the flakes at the highest point of the boulder.

Lower ledge/back wall is obviously out.

Mauricio Chino

A must do classic if you like board style boulders.

Stand start matched on the jug rail, do a big move to a slopy edge and then another big move out left to the lip.

Emmanuel Madayag

Sit start on the good edge. Head up and left via edges, pockets and a hard throw to a sloper. Top out left. (Originally graded V11, but the FA missed some beta).

Travis B. (FA)

Emmanuel Madayag

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Start left hand side of cave in lie down position, left hand undercling back of cave right hand crimp, match crimps & head right into "Defcon 1". Ledge is in.

Travis B

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Same start as Tyler Durden then head left and up via slot and break to finish up on sloper break.

Travis B. Ian Millar

Out through the cave and mantle. From V9 to V10 After the crux hold broke

Damien Alexander (FA)

Marcus Lim Aurel Gelot

It's a no-rules standing start problem with a mantle finish. The only way to work it is ground up. The start crimps are tiny.

Dave Kellermann

Sage G.

Far right cave problem. Can be done in a number of different ways including a crazy dyno that could potentially send you rolling down to a rocky but somewhat refreshing swim in the ocean.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis | Oliver Chen

Sit.

Direct.

Start on the chalked up jugs, traverse left to pockets out and through the middle of roof to finish above the start.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis Aurel Gelot

A.K.A. Lover's Tiff Direct. Go straight out the roof from the start jug and link into the end of Lover's Tiff. Morpho as anything. Edit: New beta seems to make this V10ish.

Mattias Braach Maksvytis

Sit Start on the 2 crimps below the jug rail, climb as for 'Love and Pride' then traverse into & exit 'Lovers Tiff Left'

R. Hofmann

Linkup 'Upper Pipe Dreams' into 'Pipe Dreams' to the double heel, then into 'Rubble'. Described in the Sydney Bouldering Guidebook as not yet sent