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Mum's Kitchen Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Ewan Hibbert Bertie James Jason Price

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Mum's Kitchen 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:
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Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.004386, 150.157235

description

Fun, short, easy problems with soft sand for falls. No mats needed. Room for more (mostly harder) problems to be added. Not familiar with bouldering grades, so adjust as necessary.

access issues

None known of.

inherited from Grey Rocks

approach

Park in the carpark at the end of Grey Rocks Rd. Walk along path and down timber stairs to southern side of rocks. When you reach the sand you'll see the boulders just over 100m down the beach.

ethic

Leave no trace (no bolting, carry out rubbish, don't brush off the lichen, wash off chalk marks, etc).

inherited from Grey Rocks
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Main Wall

This is the high-ball, slabby face set back from the Anzac Boulder. It is protected from the nor-east winds and most problems have sand landings. The top-outs are generally good but take care at the vegetated right end. Try to limit damage to vegetation at the top. Descend left down Cream Corner.

2 Cream Corner

The internal corner at the left end of the left boulder.

The best descent route for the Main Wall.

FFA: Ria, 2 Oct 2021

VB Boulder 3m
3 Lamington Layback

The crack in the middle of the south facing wall. Dubious top-out chockstones. Take care.

FFA: Dave, 2 Oct 2021

V0- Boulder 4m
4 Dad's Pancakes

Up the arete.

FFA: Dave, 2 Oct 2021

V0- Boulder 5m
5 Peanut Biscuits

Left most crack on main face.

FFA: Dave, 2 Oct 2021

VB+ Boulder 5m
6 2 and a 1/4

Up slab between two cracks on main face.

FFA: Ria, 2 Oct 2021

VB Boulder 5m
7 Apricot Slice

Crack in the middle of the main face.

FFA: Ria, 2 Oct 2021

VB Boulder 5m
8 Licking The Beater

Up the stepped slab right of the central crack.

FFA: Dave, 2 Oct 2021

VB Boulder 5m
9 Don't Skip Your Vegies

Slightly vegetated left leaning crack right of Licking The Beater.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 6 Jan

VB Boulder 5m
10 Just One More

Off-width corner at right-hand end of main face.

FFA: Ria, 2 Oct 2021

VB Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Anzac Boulder

This is the prominant, double tiered boulder. Descend right down the gully between Anzac Boulder and Devonshire Face.

12 Oat Slice

Traverse right starting next to bush, just left of Vitamin Puffs. Follow head height horizontal crack / ledge with hands. Bridge gap (descenmt route) to Devonshire Face. Continue right until reaching bush, then top out.

FFA: Dave, 2 Oct 2021

VB+ Boulder 7m
13 Vitamin Puffs

Use face and left side of crack on south facing wall.

FFA: Ria, 2 Oct 2021

VB- Boulder 3m
14 Uncooked Chocolate Cake

Use face and right side of crack on south facing wall.

FFA: Ria, 2 Oct 2021

VB+ Boulder 3m
15 Anzac Arete

Sit start just right of arete proper, under-cling in mini cave then up arete.

FFA: Dave, 2 Oct 2021

V0- Boulder 4m

Devonshire Face

This is the short, steep face to the right of the Anzac Boulder. Descend left.

17 Dry Scone

The left arete of Devonshire Face, left of the deep crack (Elderberry Jam). This is to the right of the obvious descent gully.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 27 Mar

VB- Boulder 3m
18 Elderberry Jam

There are three cracks in the Devonshire Face, right of Dry Scone. This is the widest crack to the left.

You may need to tape up for this one. Pretend you're in The Valley and use vertical hand jams only (the rest is off limits) to gain the mighty summit.

A harder variant (project) for the massochists would be to throw a fist into the bum start.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 30 Jan

VB+ Boulder 3m
19 Double Cream

Good value. The double, crossed cracks right of Elderberry Jam. Sit start. No dynos.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 27 Mar

V1 Boulder 3m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
VB- Dry Scone Boulder 3m
Vitamin Puffs Boulder 3m
VB 2 and a 1/4 Boulder 5m
Apricot Slice Boulder 5m
Cream Corner Boulder 3m
Don't Skip Your Vegies Boulder 5m
Just One More Boulder 4m
Licking The Beater Boulder 5m
VB+ Elderberry Jam Boulder 3m
Oat Slice Boulder 7m
Peanut Biscuits Boulder 5m
Uncooked Chocolate Cake Boulder 3m
V0- Anzac Arete Boulder 4m
Dad's Pancakes Boulder 5m
Lamington Layback Boulder 4m
V1 Double Cream Boulder 3m
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