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Mum's Kitchen All Bouldering 16 routes in cliff

16
BLDV
VB-VBVB+V0-V0V0+V1

Seasonality

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F
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Description

Fun, short, easy problems with soft sand for falls. No mats needed. Room for more (mostly harder) problems to be added. Not familiar with bouldering grades, so adjust as necessary.

Access issues inherited from Grey Rocks

None known of.

Approach

Park in the carpark at the end of Grey Rocks Rd. Walk along path and down timber stairs to southern side of rocks. When you reach the sand you'll see the boulders just over 100m down the beach.

Ethic inherited from Grey Rocks

Leave no trace (no bolting, carry out rubbish, don't brush off the lichen, wash off chalk marks, etc).

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Contents

Routes

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Grade Route

Main Wall Back to contents

This is the high-ball, slabby face set back from the Anzac Boulder. It is protected from the nor-east winds and most problems have sand landings. The top-outs are generally good but take care at the vegetated right end. Try to limit damage to vegetation at the top. Descend left down Cream Corner.

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2
VB Cream Corner Boulder 3m

The internal corner at the left end of the left boulder.

The best descent route for the Main Wall.

FFA: Ria, 2 Oct 2021

3
V0- ★ Lamington Layback Boulder 4m

The crack in the middle of the south facing wall. Dubious top-out chockstones. Take care.

FFA: Dave, 2 Oct 2021

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4
V0- ★ Dad's Pancakes Boulder 5m

Up the arete.

FFA: Dave, 2 Oct 2021

5
VB+ ★ Peanut Biscuits Boulder 5m

Left most crack on main face.

FFA: Dave, 2 Oct 2021

6
VB ★ 2 and a 1/4 Boulder 5m

Up slab between two cracks on main face.

FFA: Ria, 2 Oct 2021

7
VB ★ Apricot Slice Boulder 5m

Crack in the middle of the main face.

FFA: Ria, 2 Oct 2021

8
VB ★ Licking The Beater Boulder 5m

Up the stepped slab right of the central crack.

FFA: Dave, 2 Oct 2021

9
VB ★ Don't Skip Your Vegies Boulder 5m

Slightly vegetated left leaning crack right of Licking The Beater.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 6 Jan

10
VB Just One More Boulder 4m

Off-width corner at right-hand end of main face.

FFA: Ria, 2 Oct 2021

Anzac Boulder Back to contents

This is the prominant, double tiered boulder. Descend right down the gully between Anzac Boulder and Devonshire Face.

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12
VB+ ★ Oat Slice Boulder 7m

Traverse right starting next to bush, just left of Vitamin Puffs. Follow head height horizontal crack / ledge with hands. Bridge gap (descenmt route) to Devonshire Face. Continue right until reaching bush, then top out.

FFA: Dave, 2 Oct 2021

13
VB- Vitamin Puffs Boulder 3m

Use face and left side of crack on south facing wall.

FFA: Ria, 2 Oct 2021

14
VB+ Uncooked Chocolate Cake Boulder 3m

Use face and right side of crack on south facing wall.

FFA: Ria, 2 Oct 2021

15
V0- ★★ Anzac Arete Boulder 4m

Sit start just right of arete proper, under-cling in mini cave then up arete.

FFA: Dave, 2 Oct 2021

Devonshire Face Back to contents

This is the short, steep face to the right of the Anzac Boulder. Descend left.

17
VB- Dry Scone Boulder 3m

The left arete of Devonshire Face, left of the deep crack (Elderberry Jam). This is to the right of the obvious descent gully.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 27 Mar

18
VB+ Elderberry Jam Boulder 3m

There are three cracks in the Devonshire Face, right of Dry Scone. This is the widest crack to the left.

You may need to tape up for this one. Pretend you're in The Valley and use vertical hand jams only (the rest is off limits) to gain the mighty summit.

A harder variant (project) for the massochists would be to throw a fist into the bum start.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 30 Jan

19
V1 ★★ Double Cream Boulder 3m

Good value. The double, crossed cracks right of Elderberry Jam. Sit start. No dynos.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 27 Mar

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V0- ★★ Anzac Arete
V1 ★★ Double Cream

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