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Dad's BBQ

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Description

Dad's BBQ is a south facing, shady, easy access crag for those that want to dabble in bouldereing at easy grades, safe heights and with a sand landing. Swimming is available before or after (or during at high tide). No mat is required but a beach towel may be handy to minimise the brushing of sand off your sticky rubber. Plenty for the kiddies, especially on the Sausage Sizzle Slabs (eastern section).

Toppo lines are generally shown at hand level. The difficulty of sit starts may vary with sand level. Moist rock will make all routes substantially more difficult.

Access issues inherited from Grey Rocks

None known of.

Approach

From the Grey Rocks carpark, follow the trail to the wooden, beach access stairs on the right (south). Descend the stairs, turn left and walk for ten seconds.

Ethic inherited from Grey Rocks

Leave no trace (no bolting, carry out rubbish, don't brush off the lichen, wash off chalk marks, etc).

History

History timeline chart

Developed by Adrian Ridgley in January 2024. Most likely to have been climbed on before.

Routes

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Grade Route

This is a west facing slab at a higher level than the beach. It has three weaknesses, the right of which is vegetated.

This is the middle of the three obvious weaknesses (the one left of the vegetation). Hands free. Topo at feet level.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan

On the same slab as Beer In Hand. Start up the diagonal, vegetated crack at the right side of the slab. Pad up just left of the arete. Hands permitted.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan

Back at beach level there is a large, south facing boulder with vibrant orange lichen. This is the Salt Bae Boulder. It is characterised by beautiful rock and a near vertical face. The bottom of it can remain moist after high tide and seas making the problems with techical feet (like Two Minutes Turkish) significantly more difficult.

Start on the left side of the Salt Bae Boulder at the right-leaning crack. Traverse rightward with hands in the horizonal break. Finish up right leaning diagonal.

V0 if you eliminate the obvious foot ledge in the middle.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Jan

The pick of the crag. Quite the tip shredding puzzle. It links all the best bits of the Salt Bae boulder.

Start as for Salt Bae, but traverse the face, from left to right, avoiding the high horizontal and right leaning break (the rest of Salt Bae) using whatever remains on the face. Finish in the welcome groove right of the boulder, or muscle up Golden Tomahawk for extra cred.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 30 Jan

What's the point?

Start in the semi-detatched flake between the starts of Salt Bae and Off The Bone. Climb the flake to the diagonal and beyond. Top out in the middle of the upper boulder just to make it slightly interesting.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 30 Jan

Start in the middle of the Salt Bae boulder, with your feet on the obvious little ledge and hands on the thin side pull. Straight up, joining Salt Bae at the angled slot.

The sit start (project) would make it harder and better.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 27 Jan

Sit start on the right side of the Salt Bae boulder. Hands in left-leaning, rounded crack, right foot on right leaning slab. Work hands up left to knob. Pop right hand to top, match and top out.

A harder variant (project) would be to start with both feet on the face or in the left leaning diagonal.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan

To the right of the Salt Bae Boulder is an angled descent gully. To the right of that there is a slabby face characterised by criss-crossing off widths. The problems are simpler than the Salt Bae Boulder, but can also suffer from damp rock at the base after high tide.

Start at right leaning diagonal just to the right of the Salt Bae boulder. Traverse right, feet low, through a proper hand jam and body tensioning barn-door moments. Finish up the second right leaning off-width. Tricky if moist.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Jan

Sit start just right of Low n Slow with hands in isolated flake. Up rightward until feet gain the right leaning ramp. Follow ramp to glory.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 27 Jan

Sit start at the right leaning diagonal right of Hot n Fast. Strong first move, then cruise up the widest break to top.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 11 Feb

Right to left rising traverse with feet in the obvious left-leaning ramp to easy top-out.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Jan

Right of the Low n Slow Area you will find the Sausage Sizzle Slabs. This is an easy and safe area for the kiddies, entry level boulderers or bare footed swimmers that want to fondle some rock. The coarse texture means that this areas is less impacted by moist rock.

Most problems have sand landings, but there are a few protruding ankle breakers (depending on sand level). Some supervision may be warrented. Most problems have easy, safe top-outs (with a few exceptions noted). Descend carefully in the deep slot between Sauce Not Ketchup and Burnt Sausage, or more easily at the eastern (right) end.

Long, rightward traverse across the Sausage Sizzle Slabs, from the finish of Low n Slow to the slabby corner after Do The Right Thing. Difficulty increases progressively. Perfect.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Jan

The first vertical weakness right of the finish of Low n Slow. Start on rounded boulder. Good holds all the way.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan

The face between Bread n Butter and American Mustard. Both cracks are off limits. Tenuous to start.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 27 Jan

The shallow weakness a metre right of Bread n Butter.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan

The deeper weakness just to the right of American Mustard.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan

The face between Sauce Not Ketchup and the descent gully.

FA: Xavier Ridgley, 28 Apr

Kiddies confidence-builder.

Right of Sauce Not Ketchup there is a deep, low-angled rift with a short pillar in the middle. This is one of many descent routes.

To the right of that there is an offwidth with an obvious black leakage at the base. This is Burnt Sausage, short and overcooked but the kids won't mind.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Jan

Right of Burnt Sausage there are three shallow weaknesses. This is the left of the three.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan

The right of the three vertical weaknesses.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan

Almost too easy to be a problem, but the kiddies (and oldies) will love it. The obvious left leaning diagonal right of No Onion.

FA: Adrian Ridgley

FA: 12 Jan

Start as for Baby Q but stright up the vertical weakness rather than the diagonal.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 11 Feb

The vertical weakness right of Join The Q.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan

You may want to try this one yourself before pointing the offspring at it. A bit more tenuous than most on the Sausage Sizzle Slabs. The second weakness right of the left leaning diagonal (Baby Q), with blobs of yellow lichen.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan

Desperate ... for one move ... if you're 5'8".

Between Hide The Jalapeno and Stained Serviette (the two lines with yellow lichen) there is a blank section of slab. Smear up this without using the boulders in the sand or the vertical weaknesses on either side.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 11 Feb

The broken weaknes 2m right of Hide The Jalapeno.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan

Just tidying up. The final vertical weakness on the right end of the Sausage Sizzle Slabs. Can be broken into two pitches.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 30 Jan

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Mon 15 May
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