Routes in Australia for selected grade

The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.

Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.

Start 10m right of Melville's Cave. Climb the rotten crack and go through the overhang at the top.

Cracks, then finish up gully or up crack to the left.

Start: 8m right of 'Sexless Sue'.

Lovely rock to start, and a dramatic exit to finish.

Start: As for 'Revolver Crack' then head R up thin crack.

Start just right of the cave, heading up until level with the top of it, then head diagonally up left until above the centre of the cave and continue straight up from there.

The fun starting move up to the vertical finger slot directly up the wall between the grooves of Dead Ned and OC. Well protected.

Start left of 'The Pleb'. Nice crack to ledge then bulge.

The crack requires a bit of jamming.

Start 3-4m R of the 'Spasticus'.

The layback corner.

Start 1m R of 'Petro-Fy'.

The nose on the buttress 8m right of 'Incontinentia Buttocks'. Start on the right side of arete, then up and over nose.

The topo for this route and the next few is pretty much a guess. Left of the start of 'Ddark Ddigit' is a broken orange wall with an arete on the right hand side. Pitch one follows this arete.

1. 20m (14) Up arete.

2. 30m (14) Scramble up left to middle of wall. Up most obvious line.

Steep direct line with some brittle rock.

The vertical seam/crack on the right side of the pinnacle of A Sore Thumb, finishing up steep crack.

Start 3 metres left of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding follow first of two shallow right facing corners, step right to block and directly up to top of pedestal. Climb through small juggy rooflet above pedestal. Small good gear.

The central groove on the grey cliff directly behind Bum Rock.

Climb the corner in centre of Slander Wall with two crack until it is less contrived to stay in the left one to ledge. Then up line just left of the arete above until large ledge at 45. Head right to scramble down near the chasm to base of I'm a Little Dinosaur.

This is the R corner of the alcove, once it is not madly contrived to stay out of Mouse Trap. Then up line on arete through friable rock.

From the ledge the preceding routes finish at, up the front of the pillar, through overlap and generally terrible rock.

Takes the slabby arete just right of the chimney-gully that Asteroid etc. step out from. Take some tape slings.

Takes a line of jugs.

Start: Start 1m left of TLL.

Crack 1.5 metres left of 'Serious Young Lizards'

Eliminate with a bouldery start between the L edge of the wall (with the yellow mini-pinnacle) and the easy crack.

Crack 1.5m R of Gummo.

Takes the south-west arete of Tarzan pinnacle. From the gully, follow crackline up to grey bulging arete, which is climbed to a little summit. Belay and abseil off bolts at the top of Togrul Khan.

If he wasn't then, he certainly is by now!

Start: Start at the base of the 'Gilt Edged' buttress.

Was 12 in previous guides! Given that the start move is outrageously hard for 13 that might have been from the time when 12 was the hardest route at the crag. Easily done in one pitch with extenders.

Start: Start at next break through overhang R of C-D-S.

1. 15m (13) The corner and easily up ramp.

2. 18m (13) Traverse left between overhangs, then up on jugs to top.

Start at the righthand chimney in the back of the gully.

1. 15m (12) Up the chimney and under the chockstone.

2. 15m (15) Take the left-facing curving flake on the right wall, then traverse right and up to rap anchor for Lex Luthor.

As for 'Tantalus' for 4m, then move L and go straight up, ending in shallow groove.

Start: Start 10m R of T.

Can be climbed in one pitch if you have a 70m rope. In that case minimize protection on the first pitch and extend as much as possible (sensible) to reduce rope drag.

1. Up corner then traverse left along ledge with committing move around arete up to belay. Gear belay.

2. Straight up off belay, trending vaguely right through juggy terrain. Up to DRB.

34m rap from double ring bolts above the climb - 70m rope or doubles required. Can be done in two raps using a 60 and the mid-station, or walk right and down the gully.

The flake, pass small tree, and straight up.

Start: Start R of LS.

Start just R of DM. The crack then slender buttress.

Good. Start at the buttress R of DM.

Start at a flaring chimney towards the foot of the south face. Up the chimney to a rest. Move up and L onto a mossy face and go L past a FH to the brink overlooking the gully. Then up the south wall all the way.

The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle. This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall. Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.

1. (25m, 10) Follow the crack on fine holds until jugs lead up a steepening. Easy angled ground leads to a great belay spot under the overhangs.

2. (10m, 14) Follow the crack through the overhangs.

This is a good combination at the grade, dispensing with the cruxy second pitch of Libretto.

1. 25m (14) As for first pitch of Libretto.

2. 25m (14) As for pitch two of CS Concerto.

A fairly good route. Most of the first pitch is spent bridging up Holpyp which isn't bad and the top pitch is atmospheric. Start in the D Major gully.

1. 25m (-) Climb the gully until you can climb the seam on the left wall independently of the gully to cave belay.

2. 25m (14) Mantle onto block up a little corner and then left to arete. Up steep wall to top. Finishing up the arete is more exciting at 16 but be careful with the rock.

One of the old gullies that gets few takers. The roof is exciting but is also part of Ejaculation.

Desperate for short people. Start below the gully between the Conifer Crack and Didgeridoo pipes, immediately right of Woodwind.

Not attractive. Start as for Fiddle until the gully and then climb the wall 1 metre left of that climb avoiding bridging, stepping onto block or drifting into Didgeridoo.

The excellent thin cracks up the middle of the front of this pillar. Very good and sustained. Take lots of small wires and cams.

Really good climbing on the first 25 metres. With the abseil anchor the awful climbing above this can now be forgotten. Start at short chimney 5 metres right of Humouresque. Up chimney then on up the narrowing line finishing with some face moves just to the left. Chain anchor.

Good steep finish. Will clean up well with traffic. Originally started as for 'Deflated' but the direct start also described is much better.

Start: Start at the short corner as for 'Deflated'.

1. 15m (-) Up short corner and left up ramp to ledge at top left. Or Direct Start (11): About 8 metres left of the corner, 5 metres right of chockstone at an obvious mantle move on the smooth wall. Up the smooth wall, the wall behind can help but is not necessary, no protection for first 5 metres then head slightly right to big ledge.

2. 25m (13) Step right off detached block on right edge of ledge and up wall to finish up right-hand crack on steep wall. Left-hand crack is 'Alychne'.

The Alychne is apparently a line of zero luminance (Talbett was an optometrist). This climb isn't that bad but gets very little traffic; the mossy appearance, fiddly protection and indirect line tend to put people off. Double ropes are very useful.

Start 2 metres right of the short corner, just left of an easy, grotty crack.

Up slab to a ledge at 5 metres. Up through a weakness in the bulge (crux) and on to a small stance. Traverse easily left about six metres with poor protection (many RPs) to a crack. Move up into this and then go diagonally left and finish up the left-hand crack up the steep, juggy headwall.

Above 'Toccata' there is a small bowl ringed by cliffs (The Cirque of the Climbables). On the right wall there is potential for some new routes. Start in the middle of the wall on the black rock, go up then slightly right into line and to top.

Start:

It is a wonder that this line, claimed to be 30 metres long, survived for so long.

Down and right of 'Leafy Quoit' is an orange scoop whose right side is caped(sic) by a roof.

Northern side of Leafy Quoit Lump. Follow the crack line just right of the overhang, up to the big ledge, then start up the arete, then begin moving rightwards from about half way up the arete. Finish in a comfortable, L-facing corner with a large, slingable block for an anchor.

The small crack/corner system on the L.

Start: At the top of the lefthand branch of the gully, on the R wall, are 2 flakes.

Start: The next line right.

Start: Start as for Quisling.

1. 20m (13) Up Q to the pedestal then R into line and up this steeply to a corner. (Pancho Direct Start (19) takes the yellow groove 1m R of the pedestal).

2. 28m (13) The corner then dodgy rock on the L.

The wall.

Start: Start just L of P.

The central crack of 'Wailing Wall'.

Start: Start R of P.

2 stars might be a bit generous, but should help drum up the attention this excellent route deserves.

Start: Start 6m R of DS.

Up the L-leading fat flakes with excellent gear to excellent steep face/crack moves. Walk off the gully behind the wall.

Tricky start then into the wide crack.

Start: Start on L end of Dog Wall.

The original rave review has been tempered by subsequent feedback, but it can keep a star for the moment.

Start: The subtle and improbable line 2m right of Two Dogs of Empiricism.

Up, finishing on arete.

Awkward layback start, through little overlap and up.

Start: Start: On the pinnacle right of the black slab at the front.

Crack line between Charity and Mercy. Up crack over bulge. Protect top at flake and a big reach to the right will give you the bolt on mercy before finishing the slab.

Up the slabs, and step L around the top overlap.

Start: Start between H & F.

Up the intermittant flakes, mostly terrible sounding, and a sea of moss in the middle of the slab between Debauchery and Prudity. You probably don't need to climb it.

A separate buttress 10m right of Purity and approximately 7 metres left of Heatherbell. Climb face , using the crack at 8m for gear and holds. Up to large ledge at 12m, step right 1m to gain crack with gear for the crux move to summit.

Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Start on the orange rock facing into Central Gully. Up the diagonal crack to the arete then up.

Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Up the middle of the face, moving left of the small nose.

Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully track. Wall left of "Meanwhile…", on left end of the Mari cliff.

1. 20m Up the front of the clean wall, keeping left of the black moss streak.

Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully Track. Start 15m L of Megalomaniac. Go up below thick moss streak then step R to crack, up it briefly then up the buttress on the L staying out of the moss.

Worth 3 stars in some eyes, barely worth 2 to others! A classic hand crack with an annoying bulge at the start. When the crack opens into a chimney/gully at the top, continue following the crack veering left to find a belay stance and natural anchor.

Brushed bulge 2m right of MGR. Finish right of yellow corner.

From the block step L and up frictional slab. Start 10m L of the detached pillar, under a large block which is 1m up a grey wall.

3m right of Hassan is an easy crack. Up this, then continue up face above.

Take Greenfingers to the bollard next to the scoop at 7m then step right and follow arete. Gear not great in top half.

Avoids the unprotected start of Access, to end up with a pleasant face climb. Traverse right from the start of Eat Your Greens to a crack in a scoop and climb up from there.

Start at the crack R of A. Up the R crack, which doglegs left at half height. Good rock and climbing. Chain at about 30m.

Start as for WMT. Continue right and up the crack. Finish left at WMT anchor.

Up the line behind gum tree at right end of cliff. Meander left at top to anchor of Babylon or continue to base of Skyline Walls. Enjoyable climbing but be careful of large questionable blocks at 10m.

Start at the far right, beneath the highest part of the wall, where a striking but vegetated line goes up and L under roofs 20m up. Bridge up the groove to the R end of the roof. Now swing up R and up grey wall.

To descend, walk up to base of Copyright and scramble carefully down to chains on WMT.

Not too bad really. A tricky start to easier climbing. Start at the obvious chimney bounding the L side of the main Reaper Buttress. Probably best to start up left and move right to below the line and good gear with belayer spotting (or stick-place a wire). Move up to and up the chimney to ledges at 25m. The climb originally continued up very easy ground to behind the Reaper buttress (50m abseil down Josie's Climb) or descend the awkward gully or find the abseil bolts for Reaper from the ledge on the right.

Start directly opposite the L (western) side of Minstrel Pinnacle, on the main wall. The crack for 7m to tricky roof. Onwards to ledge then steep crack. Step R across a gap then more easily.

Start as for Marginal Era but instead of traversing right, head straight up slab (limited pro). Climb R of chossy blocks to rap ledge.

Start by climbing to the first belay of Lawrence (which is on Dunes Buttress).

1. 25m (14) Bad rock and bad pro. From the ferny cave at Lawrence's first belay, traverse L, then go up diagonally L for 10m to ledge.

2. 20m (-) Steeply to ledge, step R off boulder, then traverse back L and up to the summit of Dreadnought pinnacle.

Good climb but watch out for loose rock up to the overhang. Belay on left side of big ledge 35m down abseil. Up grey then orange corner to the overhang. Steep through overhang and on up to final easy ground to top.

Originally started up 'Lawrence', a start no-one would want to repeat.

Start: Start by the giant chockstone.

1. 20m (14) Step onto the chockstone (or up short, steep wall just left of it) then juggy wall up to and up pale grey corner on right arete..

2. 40m (14) Up just left of the arete until things ease.

Some think that the excellent climbing on the upper pitches makes up for the atrocious start; others strongly disagree.

Start between Dreadnought Buttress and Dunes Buttress at a shrubby rib.

1. 35m (9) Up the rib with vegetation issues (persevere: the climb gets better). Traverse right and belay near the beautiful ferns at DBB

2. 35m (13) Bridge steeply up the chimney.

3. 30m (13) More excellent chimneying on great rock.

A good four pitches with the first, second and fourth having quite absorbing sections.

Start as for Dunes.

1. 30m (13) As for Dunes up the corner and slab but then skip the pitch 2 chimney over on the right by going straight up the slab, pulling L onto ledge then up the flake and wall staying R towards the arete (Sep 88, Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman).

2. 25m (11) Drift left up excellent steep clean exposed juggy climbing. Belay on spacious sloping ledge a bit before the Oasis.

3. 22m (10) Head up L to the L end of the Oasis ledge and surmount an undercut slot (not kid friendly! Maybe try further L with kids). Continue to an overhung but very juggy bulge, and belay 5m above this on a good ledge.

4. 23m (12) Ledge hop up to a very nice vertical juggy wall, then up a slippery polished corner crack (again, not kid friendly). At the top of the corner move about 5m R to find an easy way to do the last few moves to the top.

Not bad, seems hard for the grade. Start around R from Eskimo Nell in the gully. Jam and undercling the diagonal crack on the left wall of the gully and continue more easily to first belay of Eskimo Nell.

Start as for Eskimo Nell RHS.

1. 46m (13) Climb ENRHS then continue up ramp for some distance to belay below a corner, immediately right of the crack of Icecream Man.

2. 25m (-) Bridge undercut corner and follow line to the R side of the Oasis.

3. 46m (-) The initial chimney of EN pitch 4, traverse 7m R, then straight up over bulges.

Up the corner of Sisyphus to ledge, then head up L on red wall.

Up the slightly slabby face into the recess under the roof, then move R where it steepens to find the juggiest part of the overhang. Continue up wall above to ledge on left.

Start: At the pockety rock under the recess 12m R of Fang.

Instead of going L at small roof, step R around it and climb the R side of arete. (Belay on ledge to avoid rope drag.) The arete soon breaks out above the gully between 'Fang Buttress' and 'Bard Buttress'. Continue to summit of 'Fang Buttress'.

Start: Start as for Fear Of Praying.

The bulging crack just right of the plaque.

On the trackside of the boulder. Up wall left of chimney.

Up jugs by pockets

Start just left of the SW arete of the pinnacle. Hand traverse R to shallow corner on R side of arete, and up it to slopy finish.

The R-curving crack just R of Abdul. Awkward - but you've got to get up to Blockbuster Ledge somehow and this is the best easy option. Requires a few techniques from your bag of tricks to succeed.

Start at the base of Thunder Crack. Traverse R along the major break to Bulger.

This is now the preferred way to do Bulger. As for The Keyhole then up pea-pod groove, then the wall to join Bulger. Finish up it.

Has a lot of loose blocks.

The topo is vague at the top - pls fix it if you work out where the route goes!

Start 7m R of BT.

Done in 3 pitches but pitch lengths not supplied. (1) Up until you're under the roof crack. (2) Up then do a loose traverse R into diagonal crack. (3) Up towards roof but go around it on the R.

FA: John Moore, Keith Lockwood - 1973-07-15

Spectacular climbing on the 'Swansong' wall. Steps left from a roof above the 'Hawk' traverse, then finishes up a hanging corner high on the right-hand tower.

1. 15m (2) Scramble up to the base of chimney.

2. 35m (12) Up the chimney. When it ends move to the right face ledge and traverse for about 15m till a stance under small overhang.

3. 30m (14) Up to a prominent nose with a 1m roof about 6m up and step left across the void underneath it and traverse another m or 2. Then up easily and and not very right at all to the orange rock (iffy rock and gear in places). Bolts on ledge.

4. 30m (13) Traverse right 8-10m and up to the groove in the arete (looks mossy, but is not too bad and in a great position), past bolt and straight up to Flinders Lane.

Start: Start as for 'Eagle Cleft'

1. 30m (-) As for EC.

2. 20m (12) As for EC then take the Hawk diagonal to the R for 10m.

3. 22m (14) Step L over bulge then up thin crack. At roof move L to arete and up.

4. 20m (14) Smooth wall and groove, trend L.

5. 25m (14) Overhang then easy finish to Flinders Lane.

The "Other" linkup of Kaiser and Resignation.

Climb the first two pitches of Resignation to belay just above the horns. Take the fun traverse L to finish up the last two pitches of Kaiser.